WarProfiteer
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2013
- Bikes
- currently renting & deciding
I'm loving this trip report... keep it up!!!
Recky tour - Chiang Mai to the Tibet border / Kawa Karpo at 6,740 meters (22,113')
- Thread starter KTMphil
- Start date
KTMphil
Senior member
Tomorrow Lijian to Shangri-la, via Tiger Leaping Gorge. Last time I was at TLG it was rainy season and looked like this
More here:
http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-...orth-west-china-tibet-border-2.html#post16344
It will be interesting to see what it looks like without much rain
More here:
http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-...orth-west-china-tibet-border-2.html#post16344
It will be interesting to see what it looks like without much rain
KTMphil
Senior member
5 days of Chinese food, time for some pizza in Lijian
2wheels
Community Manager
Please pass on my kind regards to Jah. 
Must be excellent riding with him.
Must be excellent riding with him.
KTMphil
Senior member
rhiekel
Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2011
Hope your truck driver is not afraid of steep drop offs...... :-) I am not entirely sure a truck could make that road,
I only saw a couple of small cars. There were a few narrow bits........ Probably better to have the truck go on the main road.
KTMphil
Senior member
Tiger leaping gorge today
Amazing even the second time
Amazing even the second time
KTMphil
Senior member
Lunch at the TLG
VietHorse
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2012
- Location
- Ho Chi Minh City - Vietnam
- Bikes
- Hornet250, Shadow400, SuperFour400, Hornet919 x 2, VFR800 x 2
Gotta read thru this thread. Awesome trip!
2wheels
Community Manager
Now the fun begins!!
KTMphil
Senior member
Reaching Lijian
Below, Reed's blog #6 about us reaching Lijiang, I hope you enjoy is captivating writing
Post #6
Dateline: Sunday, June 2, midnight.
Welcome to the "Shangri-La Here We Come" Blog.
Present location: Jiliang.
Today's riding distance: 167 kms.
Driving (moving) time): 3:15
Moving average: 51 kph.
Tomorrow destination: SHANGRIL-LA!
Approximate distance: 220 kms
Guesstimate driving time: 6 hours
Phil Gibbins is taking a ton of photos, way more than me. He is posting them online. You can view them at the following url:
http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-...-karpo-6-740-meters-22-113-a-2.html#post29354
Hello Interested Parties,
Oops, missed a day. So sorry. Just not enough time. The pace is non-stop, and as I am writing this I can see from my hotel window a fantastic scene of a massive group ethnic dance in the market square of Lijiang Old Town. Traditionally-costumed dancers are dancing in a large circle ringed by hundreds of onlookers flashing their cameras at them like electronic bubbles. The rhythmic, incessant pounding of tribal drums are vibrating my window panes. I really should be out there photographing and videoing the going-ons, but instead I feel an obligation to the followers of this blog to keep everyone updated on how this tour is going, which is going absolutely fabulous, by the way.
And since I missed yesterday, I'll fill you in yesterday's trip data right here.
Yesterday's location: Dali
Driving distance: 345 kms.
Driving (moving) time: 4:43
Moving average: 73 kph
Below is the gps track, from the start, including the last two days:
GPS Track from Chiang Mai to Lijiang
GPS Track from Chiang Mai to Lijiang
To start off with, I'll briefly fill you in on yesterday's ride.
Being in the center of Kunming, it took us awhile to reach the highway especially because we had to take a circuitous route to reach it. This is because mcs are not really allowed on the highways and we had to ride a ways out of town to take a lesser-used entrance than the main city ones.
This was the first day on the tour I can say I did not enjoy the riding. I did not hate it, but it was basically your typical, boring interstate-type highway riding with not much in the way of challenging curves. If you like highway riding, then you would have liked this ride. It was a Harley-cruiser-type ride. Plenty of people enjoy this type of riding but it is not my cup of tea. When the terrain grew rugged and canyony over the last 20 ks pleasure started creeping in again but it was too short-lived.
The road was marked AH 14 (Asia Highway) and when all the Asian countries can get there shit together regarding regional travel, this will be one of the main roads in the Pan-Asia highway system. Our bearing was west-northwest. Our highpoint hit 2200 meters and for most of the day we never dipped below 1600 meters. Traffic was light and the road condition was mostly fine on this restricted-access, four lane divided highway. The weather was fine.
Dali is situated on the north side of a large lake. It is a city with a long history and the town retains its old-style Chinese charm with blocks full of two story connected buildings with a curved roof eaves and curved terracotta tiles that look like bamboo. We ate well that night once again on traditional Yunnan dishes. The most interesting dish was a plate of assorted tree funguses. At the table next to ours sat a group of six, old Chinese men dressed in peasant jackets and peasant hats who looked like they participated back in the old days on the Long March with Chairman Mao.
Today we got another late start, mainly because both George and I overslept. It was raining, though, and we probably would have waited it out anyway. When we were ready to leave it pretty much tapered off and rain was not a factor for the rest of the day. Didn't see much sun, though.
We did not take the highway today and instead took the old road up over the mountains that sort of paralleled the highway. The road was a narrow, two-lane undivided road without a shoulder that ran through many small towns. It was infinitely more interesting than yesterday's highway, but a large number of lorries lumbering up and down it to escape the highway tolls were hard to pass. And when we did pass, passing was dangerous because the road surface was hazardous, covered with grit and sand and potholes. And oncoming cars were also trying to pass whenever they had a chance. Tough to say which one I preferred; this, or yesterday's droning highway that bored straight through all the intervening mountains.
Today we peaked at over 2,500 meters and spent almost the entire day rarely dropping below 2,000 meters.
But we did make several interesting stops which would have been impossible if we took the highway. We stopped in a traditional Chinese farming community and wandered around a bit, but hardly anyone was around as they were all out working in their fields.
After that we rode into a large valley that was one huge rice field. Thousands of workers were spread across it in small teams planting new rice shoots by hand.
We pulled into Lijiang mid-afternoon and checked into our hotel which is in a perfect location; right on the edge of the Old City. Lijiang is a UNESCO world heritage site and THE most popular tourist destination in China. They get three times the amount of visitors than the Forbidden City and this is amazing as Jiliang is really out there in the boondocks. What also is amazing is that only twenty years ago hardly any visitors ever made their way to Lijiang.
If you think of an ancient Chinese city like you would see in a historic kung-fu movie, this is Jiliang. Every single place you turn your head there's a fantastic photo. The building architecture is outstanding. Charm permeates everything. It is filled with tourists, but so what: everyone is marveling at the same things. Every single person has a camera and is shooting away, mostly at their friends and families posing in front of some charming scene
No cars are allowed in the Old City, not that any could pass through their narrow streets developed when horses and carts were in common use.
There is one huge open square which has become the de-facto starting point for a walking tour. Two ancient, gigantic, wooden waterwheels are still spinning in the stream that runs through Jiliang. I promise to post photos of Lijiang and a bunch of other places we visited when we reach SHANGRI-LA. I should have some extra time to devote to this blog because we plan on taking a rest day there.
That's it for this post. Have to get ready for an early start for SHANGRI-LA tomorrow. Shangri-La! I still can't believe it.
Until tomorrow, Bye-bye.
Below, Reed's blog #6 about us reaching Lijiang, I hope you enjoy is captivating writing
Post #6
Dateline: Sunday, June 2, midnight.
Welcome to the "Shangri-La Here We Come" Blog.
Present location: Jiliang.
Today's riding distance: 167 kms.
Driving (moving) time): 3:15
Moving average: 51 kph.
Tomorrow destination: SHANGRIL-LA!
Approximate distance: 220 kms
Guesstimate driving time: 6 hours
Phil Gibbins is taking a ton of photos, way more than me. He is posting them online. You can view them at the following url:
http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-...-karpo-6-740-meters-22-113-a-2.html#post29354
Hello Interested Parties,
Oops, missed a day. So sorry. Just not enough time. The pace is non-stop, and as I am writing this I can see from my hotel window a fantastic scene of a massive group ethnic dance in the market square of Lijiang Old Town. Traditionally-costumed dancers are dancing in a large circle ringed by hundreds of onlookers flashing their cameras at them like electronic bubbles. The rhythmic, incessant pounding of tribal drums are vibrating my window panes. I really should be out there photographing and videoing the going-ons, but instead I feel an obligation to the followers of this blog to keep everyone updated on how this tour is going, which is going absolutely fabulous, by the way.
And since I missed yesterday, I'll fill you in yesterday's trip data right here.
Yesterday's location: Dali
Driving distance: 345 kms.
Driving (moving) time: 4:43
Moving average: 73 kph
Below is the gps track, from the start, including the last two days:
GPS Track from Chiang Mai to Lijiang
GPS Track from Chiang Mai to Lijiang
To start off with, I'll briefly fill you in on yesterday's ride.
Being in the center of Kunming, it took us awhile to reach the highway especially because we had to take a circuitous route to reach it. This is because mcs are not really allowed on the highways and we had to ride a ways out of town to take a lesser-used entrance than the main city ones.
This was the first day on the tour I can say I did not enjoy the riding. I did not hate it, but it was basically your typical, boring interstate-type highway riding with not much in the way of challenging curves. If you like highway riding, then you would have liked this ride. It was a Harley-cruiser-type ride. Plenty of people enjoy this type of riding but it is not my cup of tea. When the terrain grew rugged and canyony over the last 20 ks pleasure started creeping in again but it was too short-lived.
The road was marked AH 14 (Asia Highway) and when all the Asian countries can get there shit together regarding regional travel, this will be one of the main roads in the Pan-Asia highway system. Our bearing was west-northwest. Our highpoint hit 2200 meters and for most of the day we never dipped below 1600 meters. Traffic was light and the road condition was mostly fine on this restricted-access, four lane divided highway. The weather was fine.
Dali is situated on the north side of a large lake. It is a city with a long history and the town retains its old-style Chinese charm with blocks full of two story connected buildings with a curved roof eaves and curved terracotta tiles that look like bamboo. We ate well that night once again on traditional Yunnan dishes. The most interesting dish was a plate of assorted tree funguses. At the table next to ours sat a group of six, old Chinese men dressed in peasant jackets and peasant hats who looked like they participated back in the old days on the Long March with Chairman Mao.
Today we got another late start, mainly because both George and I overslept. It was raining, though, and we probably would have waited it out anyway. When we were ready to leave it pretty much tapered off and rain was not a factor for the rest of the day. Didn't see much sun, though.
We did not take the highway today and instead took the old road up over the mountains that sort of paralleled the highway. The road was a narrow, two-lane undivided road without a shoulder that ran through many small towns. It was infinitely more interesting than yesterday's highway, but a large number of lorries lumbering up and down it to escape the highway tolls were hard to pass. And when we did pass, passing was dangerous because the road surface was hazardous, covered with grit and sand and potholes. And oncoming cars were also trying to pass whenever they had a chance. Tough to say which one I preferred; this, or yesterday's droning highway that bored straight through all the intervening mountains.
Today we peaked at over 2,500 meters and spent almost the entire day rarely dropping below 2,000 meters.
But we did make several interesting stops which would have been impossible if we took the highway. We stopped in a traditional Chinese farming community and wandered around a bit, but hardly anyone was around as they were all out working in their fields.
After that we rode into a large valley that was one huge rice field. Thousands of workers were spread across it in small teams planting new rice shoots by hand.
We pulled into Lijiang mid-afternoon and checked into our hotel which is in a perfect location; right on the edge of the Old City. Lijiang is a UNESCO world heritage site and THE most popular tourist destination in China. They get three times the amount of visitors than the Forbidden City and this is amazing as Jiliang is really out there in the boondocks. What also is amazing is that only twenty years ago hardly any visitors ever made their way to Lijiang.
If you think of an ancient Chinese city like you would see in a historic kung-fu movie, this is Jiliang. Every single place you turn your head there's a fantastic photo. The building architecture is outstanding. Charm permeates everything. It is filled with tourists, but so what: everyone is marveling at the same things. Every single person has a camera and is shooting away, mostly at their friends and families posing in front of some charming scene
No cars are allowed in the Old City, not that any could pass through their narrow streets developed when horses and carts were in common use.
There is one huge open square which has become the de-facto starting point for a walking tour. Two ancient, gigantic, wooden waterwheels are still spinning in the stream that runs through Jiliang. I promise to post photos of Lijiang and a bunch of other places we visited when we reach SHANGRI-LA. I should have some extra time to devote to this blog because we plan on taking a rest day there.
That's it for this post. Have to get ready for an early start for SHANGRI-LA tomorrow. Shangri-La! I still can't believe it.
Until tomorrow, Bye-bye.
johnnysneds
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 14, 2011
- Location
- Chiang Mai
- Bikes
- Multistrada 1200S Touring, WR450F, KTM200EXC, Gas Gas 280, PCX
Doesn't look that significant until you zoom in and see the people standing on the platform....awesome
KTMphil
Senior member
A quick rewind to Lijian. After an afternoon of walking around the old town, it was time for a Change from Chinese food - Bon Appetito pizza
A few beers, then off to be for a 0730am start
Getting ready to leave Lijian, the famous water wheel on the edge of the old city outside the Grand Lijian Hotel (280 RMB a night)
A few hours north and were at the Yulong & Haba Snow mountain viewpoint
These banners weren't there last time I was here
For good luck
The lookout was a little misty but still decent
A few beers, then off to be for a 0730am start
Getting ready to leave Lijian, the famous water wheel on the edge of the old city outside the Grand Lijian Hotel (280 RMB a night)
A few hours north and were at the Yulong & Haba Snow mountain viewpoint
These banners weren't there last time I was here
For good luck
The lookout was a little misty but still decent
KTMphil
Senior member
Good luck ribbons everywhere
KTMphil
Senior member
A couple of hours north of Lijian and we're at the famous Tiger leaping Gorge
Looks like these Chinese ladies liked it as much as we did
It really is a must see & riding all the way there makes it feel all the better
Through the tunnel past the view point, the road suddenly becomes desolate, they all go back to the highway from there
We'd been told (even though it looks straight down), that its impossible to throw a a stone into the river
George looking for the suitable stone
1st try - nope hits the rock wall
2nd try - same, its true!
'
Looks like these Chinese ladies liked it as much as we did
It really is a must see & riding all the way there makes it feel all the better
Through the tunnel past the view point, the road suddenly becomes desolate, they all go back to the highway from there
We'd been told (even though it looks straight down), that its impossible to throw a a stone into the river
George looking for the suitable stone
1st try - nope hits the rock wall
2nd try - same, its true!
'
KTMphil
Senior member
The TLG is captivating
Our support vehicle driver
Below is the very start of TLG from the highway
Getting it with the GoPro
Can you imagine cutting this?
Our support vehicle driver
Below is the very start of TLG from the highway
Getting it with the GoPro
Can you imagine cutting this?
KTMphil
Senior member
As Reed said today "this is the best motorcycle road i have EVER ridden" (I knew he'd love it!). Here following the river E/NE
Support vehicle always at the back
This was an amazing switchback section
The views just continued and continued
Great lunch stop on the TLG river road
What a view they have
80 RMB room too!
Packed support vehicle
Waiting for the food
After lunch off again NE in the direction of Shangri-La, there wasn't a dull moment on this road, we stayed in 2nd and 3rd gear to take in the scenery
Support vehicle always at the back
This was an amazing switchback section
The views just continued and continued
Great lunch stop on the TLG river road
What a view they have
80 RMB room too!
Packed support vehicle
Waiting for the food
After lunch off again NE in the direction of Shangri-La, there wasn't a dull moment on this road, we stayed in 2nd and 3rd gear to take in the scenery
KTMphil
Senior member
The views were like this ALL the way for about 140km !!! Garden(s) of Eden hidden between all the barren mountains
We had some rain, afterwards the great viz
Our first Yak of the trip
We had some rain, afterwards the great viz
Our first Yak of the trip
KTMphil
Senior member
Everything changing and starting to feel Tibetan now
KTMphil
Senior member
.....Rest day In Shangri-La tomorrow, more to come (Bloody cold here, about to jump into the electric blanket)
KTMphil
Senior member
Reed's been riding in Asia for over 20 years and said it was the best/ most scenic motorcycle road he has ever ridden.
VietHorse
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2012
- Location
- Ho Chi Minh City - Vietnam
- Bikes
- Hornet250, Shadow400, SuperFour400, Hornet919 x 2, VFR800 x 2
Pls confirm that you guys tried to thru the stone to the people down there...
:jump :F:MG
:jump :F:MG
KTMphil
Senior member
KTMphil
Senior member
Getting a little chilly here. 2,500 meters and temperature dropped to 13C!
Reed said it registered 9C when he woke up this morning in Shangri-La!
Approaching Shangri-La from the east
Staying at this place, good wifi & it's pretty fancy
Highly advise staying at a Tibetan place in Shangri-La
Follow Reed's blog here:
http://www.asianbiketour.com/shangr...hiang-mai-thailand-to-the-tibet-china-border/
Reed said it registered 9C when he woke up this morning in Shangri-La!
Approaching Shangri-La from the east
Staying at this place, good wifi & it's pretty fancy
Highly advise staying at a Tibetan place in Shangri-La
Follow Reed's blog here:
http://www.asianbiketour.com/shangr...hiang-mai-thailand-to-the-tibet-china-border/
KTMphil
Senior member
SGL BBQ in the old town
Sunset
SGL old town, the best so far on our route
Follow Reeds blog here:
http://www.asianbiketour.com/shangr...hiang-mai-thailand-to-the-tibet-china-border/
Sunset
SGL old town, the best so far on our route
Follow Reeds blog here:
http://www.asianbiketour.com/shangr...hiang-mai-thailand-to-the-tibet-china-border/
KTMphil
Senior member
Tibetan beer, 1st time and really good
Yak steak for dinner
Follow Reeds blog here:
http://www.asianbiketour.com/shangr...hiang-mai-thailand-to-the-tibet-china-border/
Yak steak for dinner
Follow Reeds blog here:
http://www.asianbiketour.com/shangr...hiang-mai-thailand-to-the-tibet-china-border/
2wheels
Community Manager
So glad you are there and enjoying it.
Nice pics too.
Nice pics too.
KTMphil
Senior member
You can exchange USD $ for Chinese Yuan/ RMB in Shangri-La. Only Bank of China can do this, ICBC & Agricultural Bank of China cannot do fx. You will need to bring your passport to the bank with you.
KTMphil
Senior member
Tribal ladies in Shangri-La town today
KTMphil
Senior member
KTMphil
Senior member
Mr. R at the famous Tibetan monastery just north of Shangri-La!
A couple of fish eye shots from the TLG
A couple of fish eye shots from the TLG
Just Bob
Senior Member
Just. Plain. WOW!
KTMphil
Senior member
All everyone could say today was - WOW! Unbelievable eye candy (& riding).
June 5th, 2013 - Shangri-La to Deqin, approximately 200km, 5 hours with stops
0730am start, no rain for the first time in a few days in the mornings and northbound towards Deqin.
Leaving Shangri-La, the Ganden Sumtseling Monastery, also known as Sungtseling and Guihuasi
Photo: Reed Resnikoff
June 5th, 2013 - Shangri-La to Deqin, approximately 200km, 5 hours with stops
0730am start, no rain for the first time in a few days in the mornings and northbound towards Deqin.
Leaving Shangri-La, the Ganden Sumtseling Monastery, also known as Sungtseling and Guihuasi
Photo: Reed Resnikoff
KTMphil
Senior member
Doesn't take a genius to see why it's called Shangri-La
We climb up into the mountains - luckily the clouds had already lifted, I think we're at 2,500 meters here
A bit higher here and what a view!
Mr R got the Canon 5D Mk III out of his man-bra for this one, it was worth it
We climb up into the mountains - luckily the clouds had already lifted, I think we're at 2,500 meters here
A bit higher here and what a view!
Mr R got the Canon 5D Mk III out of his man-bra for this one, it was worth it
KTMphil
Senior member
One of the smaller rivers from a glacier north that will feed into the Yangtze River
View attachment 17571
Will find out what this says
View attachment 17572
The new part of G214 is now open, I hadn't seen these views before, the old road was lower in the valley
View attachment 17573
The road is so new its still being built
View attachment 17574
The first real ice/ snow headed north
View attachment 17575
Mid-winter must be a nightmare here
View attachment 17576
View attachment 17577
View attachment 17571
Will find out what this says
View attachment 17572
The new part of G214 is now open, I hadn't seen these views before, the old road was lower in the valley
View attachment 17573
The road is so new its still being built
View attachment 17574
The first real ice/ snow headed north
View attachment 17575
Mid-winter must be a nightmare here
View attachment 17576
View attachment 17577
KTMphil
Senior member
There must be close to a 1,000,000 km's of riding experience here (George has ridden around the world on a Africa Twin amongst many other trips, also a very experienced rider) & we all agree that this is some of the best riding terrain we've ever been on.
Look at these remote roads!
A rider's paradise (but wrap up, June in the northern hemisphere and 14C!)
Look at these remote roads!
A rider's paradise (but wrap up, June in the northern hemisphere and 14C!)
KTMphil
Senior member
This is where it got real real cold. We're at over 3,000 meters, it seems the ice/ snow line was at around 4,000 meters.
This was the highest on G214 south of Deqin - White Horse Pass , 4292 meters and bloody freezing
A noodle shop (tent) at White Horse Pass
This was the highest on G214 south of Deqin - White Horse Pass , 4292 meters and bloody freezing
A noodle shop (tent) at White Horse Pass
KTMphil
Senior member
The slightest exertion here would have you out of breath (4,292 meters)
Portraits of the locals
Then more stupendous views
Portraits of the locals
Then more stupendous views
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