Dale164
Member
In mid-July 2025 I visited Sri Lanka for the first time. I rented a motorbike for 3 weeks and rode around the country, a distance of about 1,900km. I saw a small number of tourists that had rented a motor scooter from their hotel, however I only saw one other tourist with a proper motorbike riding around the country. It was a great trip. There landscape is constantly changing, there are a number of different religions and ethnic groups and the people are very friendly.
The route I took was: Negombo (1 night) – Kurunegala (1) – Sigiriya (1) – Anuradhapura (1) – Mannar (2) – Jaffna (3) – Mullativu (1) – Trincomalee (1) – Batticaloa (2) – Arugum Bay (1) – Haputale (2) – Tangalle (2) – Galle (2) – Colombo (1) – Negombo (1).
Accommodation: I consistently paid Rs 6000-8000 / US$20-26 in budget hotels, guesthouses and homestays. In every case I had a very clean room with A/C, often a ceiling fan, and a nice bathroom with hot shower. The first and last nights in Negombo I paid US$30 and on two other nights I paid Rs 10,000 / US$33.
Motorbike Rental: I booked a bike 2 months in advance from Sri Lanka Bike Rent in Negombo. I found out the week before that the bike I booked was not available. On arrival they only had old worn-out bikes to offer me. I went to Ceylon Adventure Tours in Negombo and rented a Honda CRF250L in good condition. They sorted out the Sri Lankan driving licence also. I had a very good experience with that company.
Day 1. Arrival at Colombo Airport at 3pm. I had obtained E-visa / ETA in advance.
The Immigration counters were empty. Withdrew cash from BOC ATM in arrivals area. Bought a Dialog SIM card for Rs 1799 / US$6. I had enough data and local calls to last the 3-week trip. Taxi from Airport to Negombo. Stayed one night at Hive 68 Hotel. A nice modern budget hotel in a quiet residential street, on the edge of the canal, at the southern end of Negombo. US$30/night. Breakfast and Dinner available.
Dinner and breakfast (masala dosa) at Sri Ragavas Restaurant 400m walk from hotel in Negombo.
Day 2. Negombo – Kurunegala 75km.
Fairly busy road, but an enjoyable ride to Kurunegala.
Viveka Hotel. Rs 7000. An old colonial villa with a lot of character and many antique items on display. Quiet location on the edge of the lake. Very clean room with good A/C and hot shower. Dinner and breakfast available at extra cost. Late afternoon ride to the top of Elephant Rock. Dinner at Three Restaurant 800m walk from hotel.
Day 3. Kurunegala – Sigiriya 75km. Another fairly busy road. Interesting 30 min free tour at Regent Spice Garden north of Dambulla. No pressure to buy anything.
Lal Homestay. A/C room Rs 7500 inc large breakfast. Large Dinner Rs 2500 extra. Very nice clean room. Patio outside room, good A/C and hot shower. Mr Lal and his wife very friendly and helpful.
I did not climb the rock in Sigiriya. However, I rode around the backroads and climbed two other small rock outcrops with buddhist pagodas on the top and great views.
Day 4. Sigiriya – Anuradhapura 80km. A lot less traffic than the previous two days although strong SW winds blowing across the plains.
Interesting visit to Mihintale site enroute, very windy at the top but great views. Enjoyable walk around Anuradhapura town centre. I did not buy an entry ticket to the old city, but did see many of the pagodas riding around the perimeter.
Ceylonima Homestay. 4km south of town centre. Rs 8000 inc nice breakfast. Nice dinner Rs 2000 extra. Very clean room in a large family home. Good A/C and hot shower. Friendly owner and his wife and adult children.
Day 5. Anuradhapura – Mannar 120km. A long straight road exposed to the SW winds, but an interesting ride, leaving the rice paddies behind and moving into a much drier part of the country. Near the halfway point, had the best mango and avocado fruit shake in the country at “Vanni Fresh Juice” on google maps. Checked a number of hotels on arrival, which were either too cheap or too expensive, dirty, noisy or had a bad smell.
Fortunately found Hotel Agape. Rs 8,200 for a standard room inc breakfast. Good A/C and hot shower. Very nice staff especially the older lady manager, Noelene.
Dinner at Seabreeze Seafood Restaurant, which was empty except for me and another German tourist. Disappointing meal of fried prawns.
Day 6. Rest Day in Mannar. Nice walk around the fishing village at southern end of town near the Boab Tree. Lunch and dinner at Choice Restaurant, a nice clean restaurant serving good masala dosas and curry and rice. Mannar was a nice town. I liked it a lot.
Day 7. Mannar – Jaffna 120km. First 25km a concrete road through marshland, then a good quality paved road the rest of the way. Got pulled over by two very friendly policeman who just wanted to say hello, have a look at my bike, ask me questions about Australia and take selfies!
I called a number of homestays in Jaffna which were all full. I stayed at Jamuna Villa, a very nice modern small hotel, only 3 years old, near the Nallur Temple. Very friendly owner/manager and staff. Rs 8000 Single / Rs 10,000-12,000 Double. I had dinner and breakfast a number of times at Lavins Restaurant nearby.
Day 8. Day trip riding around the islands south of Jaffna 80km. Kayts – Punkudutivu – Kurrikadawan – Kayts – Karainagar – Jaffna. These islands are linked by bridges and causeways. This is a great circuit if you have your own motorbike or tuk tuk. There are many small villages and large colourful Hindu temples.
I caught the small ferry 1km across the water from Kayts to Karainagar. Nice lunch of devilled cuttlefish at Fort Hammenhiel Resort and Restaurant. A very scenic location. Met a very friendly husband and wife fixing fishing nets in a fishing village at Casuarina Beach.
Day 9. Day trip north of Jaffna to Kankesanturai Beach (KKS) and Point Pedro 70km. Passed two lighthouses and many fishing villages. Nice North Indian lunch at Village Hotel, an upmarket restaurant right on the beach with large windows and A/C.
Jaffna was my favourite place in the country.
Day 10. Jaffna – Mullativu 115km. A good quality road, busier than I thought it would be, passing farms, small towns and villages along the route. Nice lunch of devilled cuttlefish at Family Restaurant, northern end of Mullativu.
Sunset Chalet Rs 6500. A modern two-storey house with 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, loungeroom, kitchen and laundry. A/C in each bedroom. I was the only guest. The manager lives in another village and comes to meet you. This is probably the best budget place in Mullativu.
Dinner nearby at Uthaya restaurant. Breakfast nearby at Sangavi Hotel - not a hotel, just a basic local restaurant with good parotta bread, curry and milk tea.
I liked Mullativu. It has an element of quietness that is not so easy to find elsewhere in the country.
Day 11. Mullativu – Trincomalee 100km. A very scenic, good quality road crossing many bridges over lagoons and estuaries. Had to cross the 1.5km wide mouth of Kokkilai Lagoon in a six-metre fibreglass dinghy. Four strong fishermen lifted my motorbike into the boat, and out again on the other side. The price was Rs 2000, which seems to be a fixed price regardless of the number of passengers.
Nice grilled fish lunch at Nila Curry and Rice restaurant at Nilaveli.
Orrs Hill Seaside Hotel Rs 8000. Nice clean room with A/C. Dinner at Dutch Bank Café in Trincomalee.
Day 12. Trincomalee – Batticaloa 135km. Early morning visit to Koneswaram Kovil Hindu temple in Trincomalee. Short stop at both Passekudah and Kalkudah beaches. Lunch at Ana Royal Café at Eravur, 13km north of Batticaloa.
RoaBaa Guesthouse Rs 6000. Very nice modern room with A/C and nice bathroom. Very nice owners. Down a quiet laneway off the main road. Breakfast available for Rs 1000.
Had dinner and breakfast at Sri Kishna Café. A good clean veg restaurant 800m walk from guesthouse on edge of the lagoon.
Day 13. Rest Day in Batticaloa. Went swimming at Kalladay Beach.
Day 14. Batticaloa – Arugum Bay 115km. A busy road passing through many towns for the first 60km. The next 50km much quieter. I saw two wild elephants in the afternoon, each 150m from the road, near Panama town. Returning to Aurugum Bay in the late afternoon. I saw another elephant only 75m from the road. I took out my camera to take a photo and it charged towards me, stopping only 20m away from me. It changed direction then walked over and stopped next to my motorbike. After looking at me and my bike for a few minutes, it smiled, crossed the road and walked off into the bush! It was both exciting and frightening!
Panama is a nice small town with very few tourists. Arugum Bay, although a scenic location, was not really to my liking (too many tourists!).
Day 15. Arugum Bay – Haputale 150km. Very scenic ride, passing through many different landscapes. Heavy rain both afternoons in Haputale.
Grand Glorious Hotel Rs 3000. Dinner and Breakfast available at extra cost. An old hotel but a good option for budget travellers, in a scenic location with great views over the tea fields.
Day 16. In Haputale. Rode to Liptons Seat 15km from the town. A very scenic ride through the tea plantations and and great views at the top. Interesting tour at Dambatenne Tea Factory. Tea available to buy but no pressure to buy anything.
Amaya View Guesthouse Rs 7800 inc nice breakfast. Several nice rooms, run by a nice family who live downstairs. Short walk down a steep lane from the town centre.
Day 17. Haputale – Tangalle 135km. Very scenic ride, passing through many different landscapes. Last 15km a smooth road through palm tree plantations.
SunSea Guest Home Rs 6000. A nice small guesthouse / homestay with friendly owners, in a quiet location 150m from the beach. Nice room with A/C. Very nice breakfast and dinner available at extra cost.
Day 18. Rest day in Tangalle. Visited blow hole and fishing port at Kuduwella.
Day 19. Tangalle – Galle 80km. Interesting stops at Dodonga Lighthouse and fishing village at western end of Weligama Bay.
Nisala Guesthouse in Galle Fort Rs 8000 (deluxe room). Large room and bathroom. Good A/C. Breakfast extra Rs 1800. Motorbike parking in the laneway outside. A good budget option in Galle.
Day 20. Rest Day in Galle. Short visit to Unawatuna Beach and Dalawella Beach / Turtle Beach.
Day 21. Galle – Colombo 120km. Busy road the whole way. Stopped for lunch at Mt Lavinia Hotel. Lunch Buffet Rs 5000. Very nice food. Nice hotel in a scenic location.
A nice treat at the end of the trip. Grand Oriental Hotel Colombo Rs 10,000. Buffet breakfast extra Rs 1800. Nice lobby, but rooms and hallways are old and dated. Still a good inner-city option for budget travellers.
Day 22. Colombo – Negombo 35km. Nice ride on a fairly quiet road, along the coast road, on the western side of Negombo Lagoon.
The route I took was: Negombo (1 night) – Kurunegala (1) – Sigiriya (1) – Anuradhapura (1) – Mannar (2) – Jaffna (3) – Mullativu (1) – Trincomalee (1) – Batticaloa (2) – Arugum Bay (1) – Haputale (2) – Tangalle (2) – Galle (2) – Colombo (1) – Negombo (1).
Accommodation: I consistently paid Rs 6000-8000 / US$20-26 in budget hotels, guesthouses and homestays. In every case I had a very clean room with A/C, often a ceiling fan, and a nice bathroom with hot shower. The first and last nights in Negombo I paid US$30 and on two other nights I paid Rs 10,000 / US$33.
Motorbike Rental: I booked a bike 2 months in advance from Sri Lanka Bike Rent in Negombo. I found out the week before that the bike I booked was not available. On arrival they only had old worn-out bikes to offer me. I went to Ceylon Adventure Tours in Negombo and rented a Honda CRF250L in good condition. They sorted out the Sri Lankan driving licence also. I had a very good experience with that company.
Day 1. Arrival at Colombo Airport at 3pm. I had obtained E-visa / ETA in advance.
The Immigration counters were empty. Withdrew cash from BOC ATM in arrivals area. Bought a Dialog SIM card for Rs 1799 / US$6. I had enough data and local calls to last the 3-week trip. Taxi from Airport to Negombo. Stayed one night at Hive 68 Hotel. A nice modern budget hotel in a quiet residential street, on the edge of the canal, at the southern end of Negombo. US$30/night. Breakfast and Dinner available.
Dinner and breakfast (masala dosa) at Sri Ragavas Restaurant 400m walk from hotel in Negombo.
Day 2. Negombo – Kurunegala 75km.
Fairly busy road, but an enjoyable ride to Kurunegala.
Viveka Hotel. Rs 7000. An old colonial villa with a lot of character and many antique items on display. Quiet location on the edge of the lake. Very clean room with good A/C and hot shower. Dinner and breakfast available at extra cost. Late afternoon ride to the top of Elephant Rock. Dinner at Three Restaurant 800m walk from hotel.
Day 3. Kurunegala – Sigiriya 75km. Another fairly busy road. Interesting 30 min free tour at Regent Spice Garden north of Dambulla. No pressure to buy anything.
Lal Homestay. A/C room Rs 7500 inc large breakfast. Large Dinner Rs 2500 extra. Very nice clean room. Patio outside room, good A/C and hot shower. Mr Lal and his wife very friendly and helpful.
I did not climb the rock in Sigiriya. However, I rode around the backroads and climbed two other small rock outcrops with buddhist pagodas on the top and great views.
Day 4. Sigiriya – Anuradhapura 80km. A lot less traffic than the previous two days although strong SW winds blowing across the plains.
Interesting visit to Mihintale site enroute, very windy at the top but great views. Enjoyable walk around Anuradhapura town centre. I did not buy an entry ticket to the old city, but did see many of the pagodas riding around the perimeter.
Ceylonima Homestay. 4km south of town centre. Rs 8000 inc nice breakfast. Nice dinner Rs 2000 extra. Very clean room in a large family home. Good A/C and hot shower. Friendly owner and his wife and adult children.
Day 5. Anuradhapura – Mannar 120km. A long straight road exposed to the SW winds, but an interesting ride, leaving the rice paddies behind and moving into a much drier part of the country. Near the halfway point, had the best mango and avocado fruit shake in the country at “Vanni Fresh Juice” on google maps. Checked a number of hotels on arrival, which were either too cheap or too expensive, dirty, noisy or had a bad smell.
Fortunately found Hotel Agape. Rs 8,200 for a standard room inc breakfast. Good A/C and hot shower. Very nice staff especially the older lady manager, Noelene.
Dinner at Seabreeze Seafood Restaurant, which was empty except for me and another German tourist. Disappointing meal of fried prawns.
Day 6. Rest Day in Mannar. Nice walk around the fishing village at southern end of town near the Boab Tree. Lunch and dinner at Choice Restaurant, a nice clean restaurant serving good masala dosas and curry and rice. Mannar was a nice town. I liked it a lot.
Day 7. Mannar – Jaffna 120km. First 25km a concrete road through marshland, then a good quality paved road the rest of the way. Got pulled over by two very friendly policeman who just wanted to say hello, have a look at my bike, ask me questions about Australia and take selfies!
I called a number of homestays in Jaffna which were all full. I stayed at Jamuna Villa, a very nice modern small hotel, only 3 years old, near the Nallur Temple. Very friendly owner/manager and staff. Rs 8000 Single / Rs 10,000-12,000 Double. I had dinner and breakfast a number of times at Lavins Restaurant nearby.
Day 8. Day trip riding around the islands south of Jaffna 80km. Kayts – Punkudutivu – Kurrikadawan – Kayts – Karainagar – Jaffna. These islands are linked by bridges and causeways. This is a great circuit if you have your own motorbike or tuk tuk. There are many small villages and large colourful Hindu temples.
I caught the small ferry 1km across the water from Kayts to Karainagar. Nice lunch of devilled cuttlefish at Fort Hammenhiel Resort and Restaurant. A very scenic location. Met a very friendly husband and wife fixing fishing nets in a fishing village at Casuarina Beach.
Day 9. Day trip north of Jaffna to Kankesanturai Beach (KKS) and Point Pedro 70km. Passed two lighthouses and many fishing villages. Nice North Indian lunch at Village Hotel, an upmarket restaurant right on the beach with large windows and A/C.
Jaffna was my favourite place in the country.
Day 10. Jaffna – Mullativu 115km. A good quality road, busier than I thought it would be, passing farms, small towns and villages along the route. Nice lunch of devilled cuttlefish at Family Restaurant, northern end of Mullativu.
Sunset Chalet Rs 6500. A modern two-storey house with 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, loungeroom, kitchen and laundry. A/C in each bedroom. I was the only guest. The manager lives in another village and comes to meet you. This is probably the best budget place in Mullativu.
Dinner nearby at Uthaya restaurant. Breakfast nearby at Sangavi Hotel - not a hotel, just a basic local restaurant with good parotta bread, curry and milk tea.
I liked Mullativu. It has an element of quietness that is not so easy to find elsewhere in the country.
Day 11. Mullativu – Trincomalee 100km. A very scenic, good quality road crossing many bridges over lagoons and estuaries. Had to cross the 1.5km wide mouth of Kokkilai Lagoon in a six-metre fibreglass dinghy. Four strong fishermen lifted my motorbike into the boat, and out again on the other side. The price was Rs 2000, which seems to be a fixed price regardless of the number of passengers.
Nice grilled fish lunch at Nila Curry and Rice restaurant at Nilaveli.
Orrs Hill Seaside Hotel Rs 8000. Nice clean room with A/C. Dinner at Dutch Bank Café in Trincomalee.
Day 12. Trincomalee – Batticaloa 135km. Early morning visit to Koneswaram Kovil Hindu temple in Trincomalee. Short stop at both Passekudah and Kalkudah beaches. Lunch at Ana Royal Café at Eravur, 13km north of Batticaloa.
RoaBaa Guesthouse Rs 6000. Very nice modern room with A/C and nice bathroom. Very nice owners. Down a quiet laneway off the main road. Breakfast available for Rs 1000.
Had dinner and breakfast at Sri Kishna Café. A good clean veg restaurant 800m walk from guesthouse on edge of the lagoon.
Day 13. Rest Day in Batticaloa. Went swimming at Kalladay Beach.
Day 14. Batticaloa – Arugum Bay 115km. A busy road passing through many towns for the first 60km. The next 50km much quieter. I saw two wild elephants in the afternoon, each 150m from the road, near Panama town. Returning to Aurugum Bay in the late afternoon. I saw another elephant only 75m from the road. I took out my camera to take a photo and it charged towards me, stopping only 20m away from me. It changed direction then walked over and stopped next to my motorbike. After looking at me and my bike for a few minutes, it smiled, crossed the road and walked off into the bush! It was both exciting and frightening!
Panama is a nice small town with very few tourists. Arugum Bay, although a scenic location, was not really to my liking (too many tourists!).
Day 15. Arugum Bay – Haputale 150km. Very scenic ride, passing through many different landscapes. Heavy rain both afternoons in Haputale.
Grand Glorious Hotel Rs 3000. Dinner and Breakfast available at extra cost. An old hotel but a good option for budget travellers, in a scenic location with great views over the tea fields.
Day 16. In Haputale. Rode to Liptons Seat 15km from the town. A very scenic ride through the tea plantations and and great views at the top. Interesting tour at Dambatenne Tea Factory. Tea available to buy but no pressure to buy anything.
Amaya View Guesthouse Rs 7800 inc nice breakfast. Several nice rooms, run by a nice family who live downstairs. Short walk down a steep lane from the town centre.
Day 17. Haputale – Tangalle 135km. Very scenic ride, passing through many different landscapes. Last 15km a smooth road through palm tree plantations.
SunSea Guest Home Rs 6000. A nice small guesthouse / homestay with friendly owners, in a quiet location 150m from the beach. Nice room with A/C. Very nice breakfast and dinner available at extra cost.
Day 18. Rest day in Tangalle. Visited blow hole and fishing port at Kuduwella.
Day 19. Tangalle – Galle 80km. Interesting stops at Dodonga Lighthouse and fishing village at western end of Weligama Bay.
Nisala Guesthouse in Galle Fort Rs 8000 (deluxe room). Large room and bathroom. Good A/C. Breakfast extra Rs 1800. Motorbike parking in the laneway outside. A good budget option in Galle.
Day 20. Rest Day in Galle. Short visit to Unawatuna Beach and Dalawella Beach / Turtle Beach.
Day 21. Galle – Colombo 120km. Busy road the whole way. Stopped for lunch at Mt Lavinia Hotel. Lunch Buffet Rs 5000. Very nice food. Nice hotel in a scenic location.
A nice treat at the end of the trip. Grand Oriental Hotel Colombo Rs 10,000. Buffet breakfast extra Rs 1800. Nice lobby, but rooms and hallways are old and dated. Still a good inner-city option for budget travellers.
Day 22. Colombo – Negombo 35km. Nice ride on a fairly quiet road, along the coast road, on the western side of Negombo Lagoon.
