2wheels
Community Manager
Thank you bsacbob.
That Citroen is gorgeous.
That Citroen is gorgeous.
"Sabaidee. Massage, Boom-Boom?"
- Thread starter 2wheels
- Start date
2wheels
Community Manager
16th November
I'd been to the incredible Site One before but Alan hadn't and it was on his 'Bucket List'.
We were on the road early and at the site by 7-30, well before the mini-buses and other tourists arrived and, importantly, while the eerie fog was still enveloping the area.
Even thought a sign says the site opens at 8am it is possible to enter earlier.
And that's what I recommend; get there early.
The place is already eerie.
Add fog and it is simply spooky.
So here's a tour of Site One during the fog and also after the sun had burnt it off.
Apparently there are 334 jars and jar fragments at this site.
The biggest jar actually has a personal name, 'Khun Jeuam' and it has an estimated weight of 6 tonnes.
Yes, imagine the transportation of these jars if they weren't made in the immediate area!
We were thrilled to find a couple of jar lids lying on the ground ...
... and in situ.
This only, again, made us ponder the mysteries of these jars and what their original purpose was.
A lot has been written about this and I'll add what I believe to be a credible account at the end of this section.
Then add the evidence of much more recent horrors, bomb craters, and the whole place takes on an extra fascination, eeriness and poignancy.
More on that later too.
Here comes the sun.
Many jars show the rim onto which the stone lids would fit (although some authorities claim that most of the lids were made of timber).
The area around this cave and around the site in general shows evidence of trench-lines, which were one of the targets of USA bombing.
The cave itself was used to shelter from the bombs, so became a prime target.
I heard from a guide that hundreds of people, including civilians, were killed in this cave when a large section of the roof collapsed onto them during a bombing raid.
The guide added that their remains are still buried in the cave, which might explain this Spirit House at the entrance.
The Spirit House is refreshed each morning well before the visitors arrive.
Another guide (other visitors had now arrived) said that the two large holes in the roof of the cave are evidence of a direct hit (and may have caused the fatal roof collapse).
It was unnerving to think that we were walking and sitting on rubble under which so many bodies were (allegedly) buried.
Spiritualists would say that is why I had become quite ill after visiting the cave two years ago.
Or I may have been dehydrated!
This time, thankfully, there were no known side effects.
It was now around 9-30 and the hordes were arriving, so we retreated back to the shop at the ticket 'booth' and enjoyed a couple of coffees.
In the shop I found these articles which are claimed to have been made from ordnance.
And there are some nice 'Plain of Jars' shirts for sale too.
Next, MIG hunting.
(continuing)
I'd been to the incredible Site One before but Alan hadn't and it was on his 'Bucket List'.
We were on the road early and at the site by 7-30, well before the mini-buses and other tourists arrived and, importantly, while the eerie fog was still enveloping the area.
Even thought a sign says the site opens at 8am it is possible to enter earlier.
And that's what I recommend; get there early.
The place is already eerie.
Add fog and it is simply spooky.
So here's a tour of Site One during the fog and also after the sun had burnt it off.
Apparently there are 334 jars and jar fragments at this site.
The biggest jar actually has a personal name, 'Khun Jeuam' and it has an estimated weight of 6 tonnes.
Yes, imagine the transportation of these jars if they weren't made in the immediate area!
We were thrilled to find a couple of jar lids lying on the ground ...
... and in situ.
This only, again, made us ponder the mysteries of these jars and what their original purpose was.
A lot has been written about this and I'll add what I believe to be a credible account at the end of this section.
Then add the evidence of much more recent horrors, bomb craters, and the whole place takes on an extra fascination, eeriness and poignancy.
More on that later too.
Here comes the sun.
Many jars show the rim onto which the stone lids would fit (although some authorities claim that most of the lids were made of timber).
The area around this cave and around the site in general shows evidence of trench-lines, which were one of the targets of USA bombing.
The cave itself was used to shelter from the bombs, so became a prime target.
I heard from a guide that hundreds of people, including civilians, were killed in this cave when a large section of the roof collapsed onto them during a bombing raid.
The guide added that their remains are still buried in the cave, which might explain this Spirit House at the entrance.
The Spirit House is refreshed each morning well before the visitors arrive.
Another guide (other visitors had now arrived) said that the two large holes in the roof of the cave are evidence of a direct hit (and may have caused the fatal roof collapse).
It was unnerving to think that we were walking and sitting on rubble under which so many bodies were (allegedly) buried.
Spiritualists would say that is why I had become quite ill after visiting the cave two years ago.
Or I may have been dehydrated!
This time, thankfully, there were no known side effects.
It was now around 9-30 and the hordes were arriving, so we retreated back to the shop at the ticket 'booth' and enjoyed a couple of coffees.
In the shop I found these articles which are claimed to have been made from ordnance.
And there are some nice 'Plain of Jars' shirts for sale too.
Next, MIG hunting.
(continuing)
An absolute ripper of a report Ron. The pictures gorgeous, and on top of it interesting background info to continually punctuate the report. I've ridden through all the places you guys went yet your report ads another dimension to the locations which is deeply appreciated. A tip of the hat to you with the time and effort put into the report.
2wheels
Community Manager
Thank you Justin.
2wheels
Community Manager
Some useful and interesting references.
Laos Keeps Its Urns
"[SIZE=+1]O[/SIZE]n a windy plateau in northern Laos, hundreds of three- to ten-foot-tall stone urns, some weighing as much as seven tons, lie scattered across a grassy plain. The local inhabitants say that the jars were made to celebrate a great military victory 1,500 years ago. The plain, so the story goes, was ruled by an evil king, named Chao Angka, who oppressed his people so terribly that they appealed to a good king to the north, named Khun Jeuam, to liberate them. Khun Jeuam and his army came, and after waging a great battle on the plain, defeated Chao Angka. Elated, Khun Jeuam ordered the construction of large jars to be used in making wine for a victory celebration.The jars are at least as old as the legend claims, but if any were used for making wine, that was not their original function. In the 1930s, French archeologist Madeline Colani documented the jars in a 600-page monograph, The Megaliths of Upper Laos, concluding that they were funerary urns carved by a vanished Bronze Age people. The jars nevertheless remain enigmatic, because after Colani's time, Laos fell into an almost continual state of war—fought over successively by the French, the Japanese, and the Americans. With peace restored, and the subsequent period of isolation ended, we visited the Plain of Jars last winter to learn about them and see how they had fared during the decades of fighting."
Laos Keeps Its Urns
"[SIZE=+1]O[/SIZE]n a windy plateau in northern Laos, hundreds of three- to ten-foot-tall stone urns, some weighing as much as seven tons, lie scattered across a grassy plain. The local inhabitants say that the jars were made to celebrate a great military victory 1,500 years ago. The plain, so the story goes, was ruled by an evil king, named Chao Angka, who oppressed his people so terribly that they appealed to a good king to the north, named Khun Jeuam, to liberate them. Khun Jeuam and his army came, and after waging a great battle on the plain, defeated Chao Angka. Elated, Khun Jeuam ordered the construction of large jars to be used in making wine for a victory celebration.The jars are at least as old as the legend claims, but if any were used for making wine, that was not their original function. In the 1930s, French archeologist Madeline Colani documented the jars in a 600-page monograph, The Megaliths of Upper Laos, concluding that they were funerary urns carved by a vanished Bronze Age people. The jars nevertheless remain enigmatic, because after Colani's time, Laos fell into an almost continual state of war—fought over successively by the French, the Japanese, and the Americans. With peace restored, and the subsequent period of isolation ended, we visited the Plain of Jars last winter to learn about them and see how they had fared during the decades of fighting."
2wheels
Community Manager
From 'Lonely Planet'.
Lonely Planet Travel Guides and Travel Information
Lonely Planet Travel Guides and Travel Information
"Unfortunately, enemy troops were the least affected; civilians in rural areas bore the brunt of the bombings. Unable to plant rice due to the daily bomb runs, they fled to area caves, where they lived in a near state of starvation for years. When the criminal action was finally exposed and military operations ceased, Laotians emerged from the caves, only to confront another kind of terror. Up to 30% of the bomblets, which Lao call "bombies," had failed to explode upon impact, leaving a legacy of 10-30 million unexploded bombies scattered across the country."
2wheels
Community Manager
Finally,
UXO NEWS - LAOS
"He said the presence of the buried bombs affects the quality of life of local people in many ways. Economic development is stalled. Children need to learn at an early age that they must be careful around their homes and villages. Agriculture is more difficult and often dangerous. Many people who have survived an accident need expensive medical care and follow-up treatment; families who have lost a loved one also need economic support and new livelihoods."
UXO NEWS - LAOS
"He said the presence of the buried bombs affects the quality of life of local people in many ways. Economic development is stalled. Children need to learn at an early age that they must be careful around their homes and villages. Agriculture is more difficult and often dangerous. Many people who have survived an accident need expensive medical care and follow-up treatment; families who have lost a loved one also need economic support and new livelihoods."
Ally
Well-known member
Unbelievable Ron, your report just keeps getting better. Fantastic.
Ally
Ally
2wheels
Community Manager
Thanks Ally.
Hope to read yours some day!
Hope to read yours some day!
2wheels
Community Manager
still 16th November
MIG spotting at Phonsavan now seems to have become an integral part of the journey and yet another aspect of this fascinating area of Laos.
We had the bug too and, after enjoying Site One, went out behind the site in search of MIGs etc.
We found them at
N 19.44014
E 103.15619
We were aware that we were being watched, so didn't hang around too long.
Just long enough for a few photos and to be asked to depart by a very nice senior Airforce Officer!
Of course, we didn't leave the public track nor enter the fenced Airforce land.
A nearby house was flying this.
Then we spotted this.
It's actually a Chinese copy of the Russian Antonov.
http://www.aeroflight.co.uk/waf/aa-eastasia/laos/laos-af-aircraft.htm
This actual plane is listed here too.
Xi'an Y-7-100C * Current *
Five of these twin-engined medium transports were delivered in 1994. The Y-7-100C is a Chinese built version of the venerable Antonov An-24 Coke.
And these MIGs.
That was fun.
Back past one side of Site One we spotted this group having a chat under a shady tree. UXO clearing perhaps?
Back to Phonsavan, just to cruise around.
There is a major housing boom there now. Big, new money.
Back at the old airstrip ...
... there is a major new development of houses, shops, restaurants, discos etc.
Apparently the development is named "Suan Pukam"
They even have a couple of these incredible electric vehicles to take people from place to place.
Seen around town.
The charming Miss Tanoy has very recently opened the well-stocked T-Sun deli.
It's (too) conveniently near 'our' Dokkhoune Hotel!
All sorts of wines (and expanding), cheeses and snacks.
She's a fascinating lady, having sent 18 years in the USA yet maintaining her Lao roots.
Get her talking about a whole range of topics and you'll find her extremely informative.
She even told us about the local, unlit, 'Red-light Street' of Phonsavan; something neither of us were, of course, interested in!
But apparently bus and truck drivers are.
N 19.45043
E 103.21839
Lao Lottery night.
Winner gets 500,000 kip, I was told.
The market is wonderful.
We ate on the corner at Simmaly, which was packed with Asian and Euro diners.
Superb meal and chilled beer.
N 19.45054
E 103.21771
However, they do have two menus.
If you read/speak Lao you will save a lot of kip!
(continuing)
MIG spotting at Phonsavan now seems to have become an integral part of the journey and yet another aspect of this fascinating area of Laos.
We had the bug too and, after enjoying Site One, went out behind the site in search of MIGs etc.
We found them at
N 19.44014
E 103.15619
We were aware that we were being watched, so didn't hang around too long.
Just long enough for a few photos and to be asked to depart by a very nice senior Airforce Officer!
Of course, we didn't leave the public track nor enter the fenced Airforce land.
A nearby house was flying this.
Then we spotted this.
It's actually a Chinese copy of the Russian Antonov.
http://www.aeroflight.co.uk/waf/aa-eastasia/laos/laos-af-aircraft.htm
This actual plane is listed here too.
Xi'an Y-7-100C * Current *
Five of these twin-engined medium transports were delivered in 1994. The Y-7-100C is a Chinese built version of the venerable Antonov An-24 Coke.
| Serial | c/no. | Prev. Identity | Delivered | Fate/Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RDPL-34015 | 12703 | 1994 | last noted Jan 2006 | |
| RDPL-34016 | 12704 | 1994 | last noted Jan 2004 | |
| RDPL-34019 | 12707 | 1994 | last noted Apr 1994 | |
| RDPL-34119 | 10707 (sic) | 1994 | noted Jan 2004 | |
| RDPL-34127 | 12706 | 1994 | Lao Aviation, noted Jan 2004 | |
| RDPL-34128 | 12701 | 1994 | Lao Aviation, noted Jan 2004 |
And these MIGs.
That was fun.
Back past one side of Site One we spotted this group having a chat under a shady tree. UXO clearing perhaps?
Back to Phonsavan, just to cruise around.
There is a major housing boom there now. Big, new money.
Back at the old airstrip ...
... there is a major new development of houses, shops, restaurants, discos etc.
Apparently the development is named "Suan Pukam"
They even have a couple of these incredible electric vehicles to take people from place to place.
Seen around town.
The charming Miss Tanoy has very recently opened the well-stocked T-Sun deli.
It's (too) conveniently near 'our' Dokkhoune Hotel!
All sorts of wines (and expanding), cheeses and snacks.
She's a fascinating lady, having sent 18 years in the USA yet maintaining her Lao roots.
Get her talking about a whole range of topics and you'll find her extremely informative.
She even told us about the local, unlit, 'Red-light Street' of Phonsavan; something neither of us were, of course, interested in!
But apparently bus and truck drivers are.
N 19.45043
E 103.21839
Lao Lottery night.
Winner gets 500,000 kip, I was told.
The market is wonderful.
We ate on the corner at Simmaly, which was packed with Asian and Euro diners.
Superb meal and chilled beer.
N 19.45054
E 103.21771
However, they do have two menus.
If you read/speak Lao you will save a lot of kip!
(continuing)
2wheels
Community Manager
17th November
We planned to ride along #7 to the Vietnam border and back to Phonsavan today.
Our initial concept was to make this a 'Five Borders Tour' i.e. Thai/Lao, Lao/Burma, Lao/China, Lao/Vietnam and Lao/Thai.
So we were away early, just as the Monks were collecting their alms.
Some wonderful timber homes along this road.
And some terribly cold rain!
We didn't have proper wet weather gear, so stopped under a tree and discussed the situation.
'Let's fly the white flag and retreat back to our warm showers' was the decision after enduring a miserable 45 kms out from Phonsavan.
It simply was not enjoyable.
But I know from before that this is a lovely ride and recommend it to all.
This was our first and only disappointment on tour.
Oh, there are now major new road-works just out from Phonsavan.
They seem to be widening and re-routing highway #7.
So it was back to Simmaly for breakfast, where these delightful ladies brightened a miserable morning and their warm fish soup warmed our chilled bodies.
And here we made another decision.
'Let's go to Site Two of the Plain of Jars.'
Neither of had been there so, after a bit of a look around town, that would be our destination.
I wasn't aware of this Lao-Mongolian Hospital until now.
Interesting fence posts.
Clear, blue sky here now!
OK, off to Site 2.
This site has a completely different 'feel' to Site 1 and I recommend it to all.
Here's a tour.
A couple of lids were lying on the ground.
For Alan and I, two Aussies, this area was reminiscent of parts of Australia (minus the jars!).
We felt very comfortable here.
Some-one always has to be a bit different!
We thoroughly enjoyed Site 2 and now it was time to return to base.
I stopped along the way to play a bit of 'patonk' with the lads.
Humiliated, I soon departed.
(photo by Alan aka 'Ngaltutjara')
Back in Phonsavan we swapped some Thai baht for Lao kip at Western Union.
Opposite, in the park, we noticed a congregation of 'street kids', who roam the market area and, occasionally, the restaurants for food hand-outs.
The locals seem to have no time for them and send them away.
I just hope their needs don't turn into something much more sinister and that they can receive the support they need from some trustworthy organisation.
Maybe they just come into town from outlying areas to get what they can then leave; I don't know. I just worry.
Here's the delightful and interesting Miss Tanoy at the previously mentioned T-Sun Deli.
We called in for another chat and to purchase some indulgences.
She enjoys a chat.
One horrendous story she told us of was about the wretched dog trade between Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.
She has already had three dogs stolen and knows where they finished up; literally.
There are actually a lot of dog restaurants in Phonsavan but only one openly advertises the fact.
One is located near the Lao-Mongolian Hospital, on the same side. Their sign is on the footpath.
Others do not advertise openly, but all locals know where the dog restaurants are.
Here's one of them, which I was taken to by a couple of girls who were not at all phased when I asked for a 'dog restaurant' (in Thai).
So, it seems, there is actually a sense of guilt or shame about what these restaurants are doing, otherwise why hide the fact that they sell dog meat?
Tanoy told me how many dogs are slaughtered.
IF YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW, LOOK AWAY NOW.
Boiling water is poured down their throats while they are being held down.
This cleans the excretia from their intestines and bowel and also slowly kills the dog.
Not humanely, but it does eventually die.
Then it is butchered, sold and eaten.
Ironically, Tanoy now has a very attractive French Poodle adorned in pink ribbons and bells and it does look very enticing for anyone with those tendencies!
So, after another excellent day (apart from the early rain) we decided to dine at the dog restaurant .... oops! No, at 'Bombies'.
(continuing after a coffee break)
We planned to ride along #7 to the Vietnam border and back to Phonsavan today.
Our initial concept was to make this a 'Five Borders Tour' i.e. Thai/Lao, Lao/Burma, Lao/China, Lao/Vietnam and Lao/Thai.
So we were away early, just as the Monks were collecting their alms.
Some wonderful timber homes along this road.
And some terribly cold rain!
We didn't have proper wet weather gear, so stopped under a tree and discussed the situation.
'Let's fly the white flag and retreat back to our warm showers' was the decision after enduring a miserable 45 kms out from Phonsavan.
It simply was not enjoyable.
But I know from before that this is a lovely ride and recommend it to all.
This was our first and only disappointment on tour.
Oh, there are now major new road-works just out from Phonsavan.
They seem to be widening and re-routing highway #7.
So it was back to Simmaly for breakfast, where these delightful ladies brightened a miserable morning and their warm fish soup warmed our chilled bodies.
And here we made another decision.
'Let's go to Site Two of the Plain of Jars.'
Neither of had been there so, after a bit of a look around town, that would be our destination.
I wasn't aware of this Lao-Mongolian Hospital until now.
Interesting fence posts.
Clear, blue sky here now!
OK, off to Site 2.
This site has a completely different 'feel' to Site 1 and I recommend it to all.
Here's a tour.
A couple of lids were lying on the ground.
For Alan and I, two Aussies, this area was reminiscent of parts of Australia (minus the jars!).
We felt very comfortable here.
Some-one always has to be a bit different!
We thoroughly enjoyed Site 2 and now it was time to return to base.
I stopped along the way to play a bit of 'patonk' with the lads.
Humiliated, I soon departed.
(photo by Alan aka 'Ngaltutjara')
Back in Phonsavan we swapped some Thai baht for Lao kip at Western Union.
Opposite, in the park, we noticed a congregation of 'street kids', who roam the market area and, occasionally, the restaurants for food hand-outs.
The locals seem to have no time for them and send them away.
I just hope their needs don't turn into something much more sinister and that they can receive the support they need from some trustworthy organisation.
Maybe they just come into town from outlying areas to get what they can then leave; I don't know. I just worry.
Here's the delightful and interesting Miss Tanoy at the previously mentioned T-Sun Deli.
We called in for another chat and to purchase some indulgences.
She enjoys a chat.
One horrendous story she told us of was about the wretched dog trade between Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.
She has already had three dogs stolen and knows where they finished up; literally.
There are actually a lot of dog restaurants in Phonsavan but only one openly advertises the fact.
One is located near the Lao-Mongolian Hospital, on the same side. Their sign is on the footpath.
Others do not advertise openly, but all locals know where the dog restaurants are.
Here's one of them, which I was taken to by a couple of girls who were not at all phased when I asked for a 'dog restaurant' (in Thai).
So, it seems, there is actually a sense of guilt or shame about what these restaurants are doing, otherwise why hide the fact that they sell dog meat?
Tanoy told me how many dogs are slaughtered.
IF YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW, LOOK AWAY NOW.
Boiling water is poured down their throats while they are being held down.
This cleans the excretia from their intestines and bowel and also slowly kills the dog.
Not humanely, but it does eventually die.
Then it is butchered, sold and eaten.
Ironically, Tanoy now has a very attractive French Poodle adorned in pink ribbons and bells and it does look very enticing for anyone with those tendencies!
So, after another excellent day (apart from the early rain) we decided to dine at the dog restaurant .... oops! No, at 'Bombies'.
(continuing after a coffee break)
2wheels
Community Manager
We had seen the sign outside 'Bombies' advertising the screening of 'The Ravens' and 'The Most Secret Place on Earth' so decided to dine there and to watch the latter.
Neither of us had seen it before and it left a huge impact on us both.
N 19.45044
E 103.21800
The food was good and our host, one of the two brother owners was highly informative and patient with our questions, which he has probably heard and answered thousands of times!
He was saying that the base Lima 20A (Long Tieng) is no longer named a 'Special' Zone because the word 'special' brings unwanted interest.
Apparently the area is still active with insurgents/revolutionists and can be dangerous at times.
It was once the second largest city in Laos, during the War that didn't exist.
'Bombies' has some amazing prints on the wall from the Lima 20A active era.
'Bombies' even had a jar of Cobra liquor.
Fascinating venue.
To bed and to ponder tomorrow; Vang Vieng and another 'Bucket List' item to be crossed off.
(continuing)
Neither of us had seen it before and it left a huge impact on us both.
N 19.45044
E 103.21800
The food was good and our host, one of the two brother owners was highly informative and patient with our questions, which he has probably heard and answered thousands of times!
He was saying that the base Lima 20A (Long Tieng) is no longer named a 'Special' Zone because the word 'special' brings unwanted interest.
Apparently the area is still active with insurgents/revolutionists and can be dangerous at times.
It was once the second largest city in Laos, during the War that didn't exist.
'Bombies' has some amazing prints on the wall from the Lima 20A active era.
'Bombies' even had a jar of Cobra liquor.
Fascinating venue.
To bed and to ponder tomorrow; Vang Vieng and another 'Bucket List' item to be crossed off.
(continuing)
2wheels
Community Manager
18th November
We had plenty of time for the ride to Vang Vieng and wanted to take in the views along #7 to the junction, having rushed this stage on the ride into Phonsavan.
Just out from Phonsavan.
We stopped at a delightful restaurant along the way and were pleased to discover coffee and these mugs.
Wyle E Coyote and The Roadrunner.
Could be Alan and I, but who's who?
More bombs.
Then into the clouds for a while.
Then we rode past a Hmong market at Phouviang Noi that looked active and interesting, so we stopped for about an hour and enjoyed the tastiest pork Pho that I have ever consumed.
All wonderfully fresh vegetables. They even had '3 in 1' coffee!
It was at
N 19.47175
E 102.59367
This little chap and his Mum were running a clothing stall ....
... this is the view they had.
Lots of homes being built along the side of the highway.
Then onto #13 again and different types of views.
Then closer to Vang Vieng the Nam Song River looked inviting for tomorrow.
A great ride through spectacular scenery and perfectly timed to check into the Phu Ang Kham 1 Hotel.
Take care not to time your ride so that you're on it late afternoon or evening.
The dust, the setting sun, the unlit traffic, the animals, the kids on bikes etc makes it hazardous.
The later stretch of road into VV is being improved but is still bad in parts.
A good, quiet Hotel with friendly staff and a nice restaurant.
Negotiated down to 130,000 kip (after the clerk phoned the owner in Vientiane!)
That includes breakfast.
It's left at the very first round-about leading into the town.
N 19.47175
E 102.59367
We couthed up and thought we each deserved a beer so had a quicky in the Hotel's restaurant ...
... then a sunset walk around town.
And, behold, there goes one item from my 'Bucket List' floating along past the Temple.
Having just ridden past a river I had a yearning for a fish dinner.
(Note that Alan's plate is already empty; apart from the healthy bits.)
Vang Vieng was relatively quiet, with no 'hoons' taking over the streets as they have done in the past.
The closures and official clamp down seems to have had a positive outcome.
(continuing)
We had plenty of time for the ride to Vang Vieng and wanted to take in the views along #7 to the junction, having rushed this stage on the ride into Phonsavan.
Just out from Phonsavan.
We stopped at a delightful restaurant along the way and were pleased to discover coffee and these mugs.
Wyle E Coyote and The Roadrunner.
Could be Alan and I, but who's who?
More bombs.
Then into the clouds for a while.
Then we rode past a Hmong market at Phouviang Noi that looked active and interesting, so we stopped for about an hour and enjoyed the tastiest pork Pho that I have ever consumed.
All wonderfully fresh vegetables. They even had '3 in 1' coffee!
It was at
N 19.47175
E 102.59367
This little chap and his Mum were running a clothing stall ....
... this is the view they had.
Lots of homes being built along the side of the highway.
Then onto #13 again and different types of views.
Then closer to Vang Vieng the Nam Song River looked inviting for tomorrow.
A great ride through spectacular scenery and perfectly timed to check into the Phu Ang Kham 1 Hotel.
Take care not to time your ride so that you're on it late afternoon or evening.
The dust, the setting sun, the unlit traffic, the animals, the kids on bikes etc makes it hazardous.
The later stretch of road into VV is being improved but is still bad in parts.
A good, quiet Hotel with friendly staff and a nice restaurant.
Negotiated down to 130,000 kip (after the clerk phoned the owner in Vientiane!)
That includes breakfast.
It's left at the very first round-about leading into the town.
N 19.47175
E 102.59367
We couthed up and thought we each deserved a beer so had a quicky in the Hotel's restaurant ...
... then a sunset walk around town.
And, behold, there goes one item from my 'Bucket List' floating along past the Temple.
Having just ridden past a river I had a yearning for a fish dinner.
(Note that Alan's plate is already empty; apart from the healthy bits.)
Vang Vieng was relatively quiet, with no 'hoons' taking over the streets as they have done in the past.
The closures and official clamp down seems to have had a positive outcome.
(continuing)
2wheels
Community Manager
From 'About.com'
"In 2011 alone at least 27 backpackers were killed while playing on the river -- either by drowning or head injuries. Fatalities aside, the small, local clinic stays perpetually busy treating broken bones and other injuries. Adventure sports and booze don't always mix well.The Vientiane Times announced this week that local authorities began a crackdown on the partying, starting with the closure of at least 24 bars along the river. I have confirmed the crackdown with some friends there. Special police are being assigned to patrol Vang Vieng to shake down travelers who are out of control."
2wheels
Community Manager
19th November
A day put aside to discover the rugged beauty of the area.
This is the early morning view from our Hotel.
We breakfasted, very healthily, at the fabulous Luang Prabang Bakery then booked our BALLOON FLIGHT for 6-30am at one of their agents
'Chantala GH' on the main road. From a Mrs Khon actually.
Confirmed and paid the high fee of $85 for a one hour flight. All confirmed on her receipt.
We didn't mind the expense as this was a 'Bucket List' item.
Note all of this if you plan a balloon ride!
Then spent a bit of time at Lima 16 ...
... before heading for the mountains.
We paid the fee to cross the river at
N 18.92023
E 102.44481
and commenced a loop through the karst outcrops and on the dusty tracks then back to VV.
Here's some of what we found.
Then we found a little piece of Paradise, where we luxuriated in the water and surrounds for an hour or so.
Ok, I'll share it.
N 18.91255
E 102.41232
Then the butterflies arrived.
And a buffalo arrived.
And we departed as this lad arrived to clean his pride and joy.
Onward.
Back onto #13 south of VV.
Into 'our' Hotel restaurant for a snack and a drink.
(I have only now noticed the fly enjoying the sauce!)
It was obvious that the area near the river would be attractive around sunset, so we went separate ways to enjoy what Nature had to offer.
I found this.
Many Monks, of all ages, on bicycles here.
Ate well again in VV that night after another thoroughly enjoyable day.
(continuing)
A day put aside to discover the rugged beauty of the area.
This is the early morning view from our Hotel.
We breakfasted, very healthily, at the fabulous Luang Prabang Bakery then booked our BALLOON FLIGHT for 6-30am at one of their agents
'Chantala GH' on the main road. From a Mrs Khon actually.
Confirmed and paid the high fee of $85 for a one hour flight. All confirmed on her receipt.
We didn't mind the expense as this was a 'Bucket List' item.
Note all of this if you plan a balloon ride!
Then spent a bit of time at Lima 16 ...
... before heading for the mountains.
We paid the fee to cross the river at
N 18.92023
E 102.44481
and commenced a loop through the karst outcrops and on the dusty tracks then back to VV.
Here's some of what we found.
Then we found a little piece of Paradise, where we luxuriated in the water and surrounds for an hour or so.
Ok, I'll share it.
N 18.91255
E 102.41232
Then the butterflies arrived.
And a buffalo arrived.
And we departed as this lad arrived to clean his pride and joy.
Onward.
Back onto #13 south of VV.
Into 'our' Hotel restaurant for a snack and a drink.
(I have only now noticed the fly enjoying the sauce!)
It was obvious that the area near the river would be attractive around sunset, so we went separate ways to enjoy what Nature had to offer.
I found this.
Many Monks, of all ages, on bicycles here.
Ate well again in VV that night after another thoroughly enjoyable day.
(continuing)
Attachments
2wheels
Community Manager
Ally, can you please delete that 'Attached Thumbnail'?
Thanks.
Thanks.
2wheels
Community Manager
Here's a very detailed account, covering many of the Lima bases, written by Dr Joe F Leeker.
I'm still searching for material specific to Lima 16 (Vang Vieng).
http://www.utdallas.edu/library/collections/speccoll/Leeker/history/Laos2Part2.pdf
"Military aid to Laos:
As will be recalled, there were four types of clandestine transport missions operated fromThailand into Laos: The first type were the Peppergrinder-missions, whereby arms andammunition were transported from Udorn to the Royal Lao Air Force and to the Royal LaoArmy. These missions were arranged in Thailand by DEPCHIEF and were managed in Laosby the Requirements Office, which was officially part of USAID. In October 69, the formerUS Ambassador to Laos, William Sullivan, admitted at the US Senate hearing that at thattime, 558 Americans were employed by the US Government in Laos, including 338Americans on direct hire with USAID and another 127 serving as military attachés. Heequally admitted that the USAID mission in Laos also administered Souvanna Phouma'srequest for military aid in checking to make certain that material arrived safely at itsdestination and was used correctly.19 But not all of these USAID people worked for USAIDor the Requirements Office: The other three types of clandestine transport missions into Laosprobably also involved people officially working for USAID: the CIA's supply pipeline intoLaos, mostly served from Takhli by Air America's "Project aircraft", the paramilitarysupport-missions within contract USAID-439-713, which included liaison flights between theCIA stations, and the AB-1-missions, which transported additional supplies to General VangPao's irregulars and to other CIA-programs. For USAID Laos also gave cover to CIApersonnel, notably those advising Vang Pao's army. "CIA 'AID advisers' also relayedintelligence information on enemy movements and, on occasion, acted as forward observersfor air strikes in the northeast where they could pose as 'refugee workers' aiding Meotribesmen fleeing the scenes of battle."20 Some years later, US military presence in Laosbecame even more visible: On 8 June 1971, DEPCHIEF was relocated from Bangkok toUdorn, and in October 72, Brigadier General John W. Vessey Jr., who had taken command ofDEPCHIEF in February 72, joined the "Country Team" of US Ambassador G. McMurtrieGodley at Vientiane and soon became his primary military advisor.21"
I'm still searching for material specific to Lima 16 (Vang Vieng).
http://www.utdallas.edu/library/collections/speccoll/Leeker/history/Laos2Part2.pdf
"Military aid to Laos:
As will be recalled, there were four types of clandestine transport missions operated fromThailand into Laos: The first type were the Peppergrinder-missions, whereby arms andammunition were transported from Udorn to the Royal Lao Air Force and to the Royal LaoArmy. These missions were arranged in Thailand by DEPCHIEF and were managed in Laosby the Requirements Office, which was officially part of USAID. In October 69, the formerUS Ambassador to Laos, William Sullivan, admitted at the US Senate hearing that at thattime, 558 Americans were employed by the US Government in Laos, including 338Americans on direct hire with USAID and another 127 serving as military attachés. Heequally admitted that the USAID mission in Laos also administered Souvanna Phouma'srequest for military aid in checking to make certain that material arrived safely at itsdestination and was used correctly.19 But not all of these USAID people worked for USAIDor the Requirements Office: The other three types of clandestine transport missions into Laosprobably also involved people officially working for USAID: the CIA's supply pipeline intoLaos, mostly served from Takhli by Air America's "Project aircraft", the paramilitarysupport-missions within contract USAID-439-713, which included liaison flights between theCIA stations, and the AB-1-missions, which transported additional supplies to General VangPao's irregulars and to other CIA-programs. For USAID Laos also gave cover to CIApersonnel, notably those advising Vang Pao's army. "CIA 'AID advisers' also relayedintelligence information on enemy movements and, on occasion, acted as forward observersfor air strikes in the northeast where they could pose as 'refugee workers' aiding Meotribesmen fleeing the scenes of battle."20 Some years later, US military presence in Laosbecame even more visible: On 8 June 1971, DEPCHIEF was relocated from Bangkok toUdorn, and in October 72, Brigadier General John W. Vessey Jr., who had taken command ofDEPCHIEF in February 72, joined the "Country Team" of US Ambassador G. McMurtrieGodley at Vientiane and soon became his primary military advisor.21"
KTMphil
Senior member
This is worthy of publishing as a book 2wheels, truly magnificent, thankyou for sharing this in such a special way.
barrygrussell
Senior Member
The words and photographs here are truly inspired and make for an evocative and insightful trip report. I am sharing it through all my social media and blogs. Wonderful stuff!
2wheels
Community Manager
Thanks Barry.
I'm enjoying riding the journey again.
I'm enjoying riding the journey again.
Lone Rider
Blokes Who Can
Hi Ron,
You better do a search for L 16 (Vang Vieng) and not LS 16 which was known as Phou Fa (Agony). This info comes from information I got from Mac quite some time ago which lists all the L and LS sites in Laos
2wheels
Community Manager
Yes, I've been using 'Lima 16' and 'L16' in my search Auke.
I'm more interested to know how the strip was used, rather than its stats.
Will try again later.
Rgs
I'm more interested to know how the strip was used, rather than its stats.
Will try again later.
Rgs
2wheels
Community Manager
20th November
Balloon Day!
We had booked and paid $85 for the second flight of the day, with collection at the Hotel at 6-15, after being told the third flight was booked out.
And the advertised flight duration was one hour.
So the ute came to collect us at 5-45!
Luckily, we were ready for them.
Off to the launch site alongside the highway into town.
This was my first balloon ride, so I brought a jacket (knowing it would be freezing up there) and didn't bring a cap.
Wrong!
For those who haven't been in a hot air balloon, the flame is hot!
A jacket is unnecessary. A cap is!
So this is what we saw during a wonderful fright.
The old 'Lima 16' in centre.
At one time the pilot got very close to power lines, trees and roof-tops (in a failed attempt to scare us).
Here comes the sun.
And 35 minutes later, not 60, we had landed on old Lima 16.
It was a pity we didn't get what we'd paid for ie one hour and I suspect it's a scam with this mob, which the agents are aware of.
The guy in charge was not interested in discussing the issue, as he wasn't when he got the Hotel collection time wrong.
So the name of the guy who runs 'Balloons over Vang Vieng' is Chanthaphong Insarn (appropriately nick-named Pong) and he also runs a Guest House beside the river.
He's making a killing; seemingly by short-changing his customers.
I'll inform the Lao authorities, for what it's worth.
So, if you are interested in a balloon ride, double check collection time, try to insist on the full hour and I believe the sunset ride (which, I think, goes along the river)
would be even better.
However, we both enjoyed the experience and were left wanting more.
We were driven back to our Hotel as the Monks were alming ...
... where we enjoyed the free pork rice soup breakfast.
Then it was time to get packed, check the bikes and head for the capital.
(continuing)
Balloon Day!
We had booked and paid $85 for the second flight of the day, with collection at the Hotel at 6-15, after being told the third flight was booked out.
And the advertised flight duration was one hour.
So the ute came to collect us at 5-45!
Luckily, we were ready for them.
Off to the launch site alongside the highway into town.
This was my first balloon ride, so I brought a jacket (knowing it would be freezing up there) and didn't bring a cap.
Wrong!
For those who haven't been in a hot air balloon, the flame is hot!
A jacket is unnecessary. A cap is!
So this is what we saw during a wonderful fright.
The old 'Lima 16' in centre.
At one time the pilot got very close to power lines, trees and roof-tops (in a failed attempt to scare us).
Here comes the sun.
And 35 minutes later, not 60, we had landed on old Lima 16.
It was a pity we didn't get what we'd paid for ie one hour and I suspect it's a scam with this mob, which the agents are aware of.
The guy in charge was not interested in discussing the issue, as he wasn't when he got the Hotel collection time wrong.
So the name of the guy who runs 'Balloons over Vang Vieng' is Chanthaphong Insarn (appropriately nick-named Pong) and he also runs a Guest House beside the river.
He's making a killing; seemingly by short-changing his customers.
I'll inform the Lao authorities, for what it's worth.
So, if you are interested in a balloon ride, double check collection time, try to insist on the full hour and I believe the sunset ride (which, I think, goes along the river)
would be even better.
However, we both enjoyed the experience and were left wanting more.
We were driven back to our Hotel as the Monks were alming ...
... where we enjoyed the free pork rice soup breakfast.
Then it was time to get packed, check the bikes and head for the capital.
(continuing)
Lone Rider
Blokes Who Can
Don't know what it was used for (can ask Mac who worked in Laos during the war) but as the L sites are basically all larger sites I assume that they served as a kind of trans-shipment points for people and maybe also freight. Found one reference of someone being ferried from LS20A to L16 for further transport to Vientiane but that is all I have been able to find about L16.
There might be something in Mike Kelley's book "Where We Were in Vietnam: A Comprehensive Guide to the Firebases, Military Installations and Naval Vessels of the Vietnam War, 1945-1975" available from Amazon. This book seems to be widely considered the definitive resource on the Vietnam War, Where We Were identifies the name, location and provides a brief historical synopsis of every military installation, firebase, landing zone, airfield, port, signal site, vessel and significant terrain feature of the American war in Vietnam. Additionally, includes a substantial number from the French War as well. Coverage includes all of Indochina. Currently features over 12,000 entries. Also includes an extensive appendix of Vietnam War research and map guidelines/resources.
2wheels
Community Manager
Would be good, Auke, if you could get info 'first hand' direct from Mac.
Just Bob
Senior Member
Absolutely mind bogglingly stunning photos. Wow!
As for the power lines, ask me next time you see me. I'd tell you here but there could be women or children reading this.
As for the power lines, ask me next time you see me. I'd tell you here but there could be women or children reading this.
2wheels
Community Manager
So having crossed another item off my 'Bucket List' (well, half a cross), we hit 13N enroute to Vientiane.
Not my favourite ride in Asia.
We took it slowly as the road is still patchy and there is a lot of much needed road-work being done.
There was also a lot of water on an already treacherous road.
I was keen to get into the capital well before the setting sun affected our vision, so we pressed on and found the Chantasom Guest House at
N 17.95683
E 102. 61488
I can recommend this place.
It offered adequately comfortable rooms, free 'breakfast' of 2 eggs and half a bun, friendly staff and locked motorbike parking.
A bit costly at 160,000 kip but we were now in a capital city.
It is thoughtfully located opposite this (Don Chan Palace), which can become a landmark after a few too many Beer Lao!
It had been a long and enjoyable day, so an early night for the weary travellers.
21st November
Neither of us had looked around Vientiane before (is there a nicer sounding name for a city?), so we walked and rode around for most of the day.
First sighting.
The obligatory stop for a pic at the Arc (Patu Xai).
From Flickr,
"Arc de Triomphe of Laos | Putuxai Gate | Vientiane
We enjoyed a couple of hours walking around the Pha That Luang complex, resting under shady trees and in Temples along the way.
"Since its initial establishment suggested to be in the 3rd century, the stupa has undergone several reconstructions until the 1930s due to foreign invasions to the area. It is generally regarded as the most important national monument in Laos and a national symbol.[SUP][2]" (Wikipedia)[/SUP]
N 17.97688
E 102. 63530
Wired for sound.
Some children are doing it tough.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pha_That_Luang
Staff back at our Guest House had recommended the nearby Ton Mouang Restaurant, so that's where we headed for a late lunch.
Excellent food, cold beer (without the need for ice), friendly service in cool, shady space.
Recommend.
(Packed with locals at night until mid-night).
E 17.95556
E 102.61612
A waiter (nick-named 'Star') was wearing this shirt.
Near sunset we returned to Patu Xai, where we remained for a couple of hours.
Later, we discovered the new 'Q-Bar', owned by Aussie John Hardingham, and enjoyed a meal there.
Recommend.
N 17.95829
E 102.61337
Tomorrow, the Friendship Bridge and a surprise!
(continuing)
Not my favourite ride in Asia.
We took it slowly as the road is still patchy and there is a lot of much needed road-work being done.
There was also a lot of water on an already treacherous road.
I was keen to get into the capital well before the setting sun affected our vision, so we pressed on and found the Chantasom Guest House at
N 17.95683
E 102. 61488
I can recommend this place.
It offered adequately comfortable rooms, free 'breakfast' of 2 eggs and half a bun, friendly staff and locked motorbike parking.
A bit costly at 160,000 kip but we were now in a capital city.
It is thoughtfully located opposite this (Don Chan Palace), which can become a landmark after a few too many Beer Lao!
It had been a long and enjoyable day, so an early night for the weary travellers.
21st November
Neither of us had looked around Vientiane before (is there a nicer sounding name for a city?), so we walked and rode around for most of the day.
First sighting.
The obligatory stop for a pic at the Arc (Patu Xai).
From Flickr,
"Arc de Triomphe of Laos | Putuxai Gate | Vientiane
Patuxai (Lao: ປະຕູໄຊ, literally meaning Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph, formerly the Anousavary or Anosavari Monument) is a war monument in the centre of Vientiane, Laos, which was built between 1957 and 1968. Patuxai is dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France. In romanising the name from the Laotian language, it is variously transliterated as Patuxai, Patuxay, Patousai and Patusai. It is also given the name of Patuxai Arch or the Asian version of Arc de Triomphe of Vientiane as it has general resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris; however, it is typically Laotian in design, decorated with many Buddhist mythological figurines such as of kinnari (half-female, half-bird figures).
Patuxai is strategically built at the end of the grand Lang Xang Avenue in the heart of the Vientiane city. Lang Xang Avenue (which runs from Herkam palace to the That Luang Stupa) is also called "the Champs Elysees of Vientiane" as the Patuxai, a counterpart of the Arc de Triomphe, is situated at the end of this road. A well laid out park, known as Patuxay Park, with musical fountains surrounds the monument."
Patuxai is strategically built at the end of the grand Lang Xang Avenue in the heart of the Vientiane city. Lang Xang Avenue (which runs from Herkam palace to the That Luang Stupa) is also called "the Champs Elysees of Vientiane" as the Patuxai, a counterpart of the Arc de Triomphe, is situated at the end of this road. A well laid out park, known as Patuxay Park, with musical fountains surrounds the monument."
We enjoyed a couple of hours walking around the Pha That Luang complex, resting under shady trees and in Temples along the way.
"Since its initial establishment suggested to be in the 3rd century, the stupa has undergone several reconstructions until the 1930s due to foreign invasions to the area. It is generally regarded as the most important national monument in Laos and a national symbol.[SUP][2]" (Wikipedia)[/SUP]
N 17.97688
E 102. 63530
Wired for sound.
Some children are doing it tough.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pha_That_Luang
Staff back at our Guest House had recommended the nearby Ton Mouang Restaurant, so that's where we headed for a late lunch.
Excellent food, cold beer (without the need for ice), friendly service in cool, shady space.
Recommend.
(Packed with locals at night until mid-night).
E 17.95556
E 102.61612
A waiter (nick-named 'Star') was wearing this shirt.
Near sunset we returned to Patu Xai, where we remained for a couple of hours.
Later, we discovered the new 'Q-Bar', owned by Aussie John Hardingham, and enjoyed a meal there.
Recommend.
N 17.95829
E 102.61337
Tomorrow, the Friendship Bridge and a surprise!
(continuing)
2wheels
Community Manager
I will Bob. Let's know when that might be as I hope to have more time with you than before (when I was preoccupied with renovations at home).
Thank you.
Thank you.
2wheels
Community Manager
22nd November
It was a thought of mine, when deciding what bits of Laos to show Alan, that we would ride from VTN along the Mekong through Nasa and Vang to Xanamkhan, Paklay then enter Thailand
at Tha Li. However, back in Luang Prabang, we met an Italian rider who had just done that ride and he scared us off doing likewise with stories of trees across the road, dust and severe
jolts. In fact he said that he wasn't sure if he enjoyed or hated the ride because when he eventually arrived in Paklay he'd forgotten his name!
We didn't want to conclude our Lao adventure with an unpleasant ride, so whimped out and headed for the Friendship Bridge.
(I'll do the river ride another time though; just a loop Nong Khai, VTN, Paklay, Tha Li.)
So we were at the bridge early, ready for whatever the authorities were in the mood to throw our way.
All was going well until we were asked to present the green Temporary Import papers for Customs.
Oops!
Way back in Huay Xai we had taken out the necessary insurance but, in the excitement, had overlooked the bleeding obvious.
We didn't have the green papers.
It was Alan's fault. :F
So we were calmly led to the senior Officer's air-conditioned office where he showed us a metre high pile of green papers and suggested we should add ours to the pile.
Sometimes a bit of Thai (even though he was Lao) comes in handy.
So does calmness and courtesy.
After convincing himself that I actually owned my Honda and Alan actually rented his he led us to our bikes and we were on our way to the Thai side.
No hassles here.
Talk about embarrassing. :RE
So we headed for Udon Thani then along the very nice #210 and #201 to Loei where I used the Garmin to locate the Phu Luang Hotel.
(I love that 'Go To' function when arriving at a new destination).
Secluded, undercover parking for the bikes. Security guard.
Air con/fan rooms, TV, WiFi, SOFT beds, refrigerator, elevator AND A BATH TUB!
450 baht. (the rooms with a bathtub cost extra)
Recommend.
N 17.49112
E 101. 73173
After luxuriating in the tub (and falling asleep in it!) we walked around the market area.
The people here we so friendly.
The bees loved the sweet kanum.
Tomorrow, the back roads to Uttaradit.
(continuing)
It was a thought of mine, when deciding what bits of Laos to show Alan, that we would ride from VTN along the Mekong through Nasa and Vang to Xanamkhan, Paklay then enter Thailand
at Tha Li. However, back in Luang Prabang, we met an Italian rider who had just done that ride and he scared us off doing likewise with stories of trees across the road, dust and severe
jolts. In fact he said that he wasn't sure if he enjoyed or hated the ride because when he eventually arrived in Paklay he'd forgotten his name!
We didn't want to conclude our Lao adventure with an unpleasant ride, so whimped out and headed for the Friendship Bridge.
(I'll do the river ride another time though; just a loop Nong Khai, VTN, Paklay, Tha Li.)
So we were at the bridge early, ready for whatever the authorities were in the mood to throw our way.
All was going well until we were asked to present the green Temporary Import papers for Customs.
Oops!
Way back in Huay Xai we had taken out the necessary insurance but, in the excitement, had overlooked the bleeding obvious.
We didn't have the green papers.
It was Alan's fault. :F
So we were calmly led to the senior Officer's air-conditioned office where he showed us a metre high pile of green papers and suggested we should add ours to the pile.
Sometimes a bit of Thai (even though he was Lao) comes in handy.
So does calmness and courtesy.
After convincing himself that I actually owned my Honda and Alan actually rented his he led us to our bikes and we were on our way to the Thai side.
No hassles here.
Talk about embarrassing. :RE
So we headed for Udon Thani then along the very nice #210 and #201 to Loei where I used the Garmin to locate the Phu Luang Hotel.
(I love that 'Go To' function when arriving at a new destination).
Secluded, undercover parking for the bikes. Security guard.
Air con/fan rooms, TV, WiFi, SOFT beds, refrigerator, elevator AND A BATH TUB!
450 baht. (the rooms with a bathtub cost extra)
Recommend.
N 17.49112
E 101. 73173
After luxuriating in the tub (and falling asleep in it!) we walked around the market area.
The people here we so friendly.
The bees loved the sweet kanum.
Tomorrow, the back roads to Uttaradit.
(continuing)
2wheels
Community Manager
23rd November
We had days to spare so decided to take the back roads, zig-zagging through National Parks and mountains to Uttaradit.
Initially, we rode the delightful #203 towards Dan Sai then discovered the Hi Fine Steak place at Phuruea where we ordered brunch and dallied for an hour or so in
this delightful setting.
I bought a couple of bottles of their 'Backmountain' wine (6%) to take home ...
... and we hungrily consumed a few items from their interesting menu.
This is a very pleasant stop.
They played subdued ethnic music and the service is excellent.
Recommend.
N 17.45139
E 101.42091
We rode #203, then onto #2013 past Ban Huai Tat to Dan Sai then # 2114 past Ban Na Thong and onto # 2195 past Charoenrat Bamrang Border Patrol Police box then #1268 past the Ban Na Po Border Patrol Police box (which were both open) and into a beautiful valley along # 1237 and at Chat Trakan we got onto #1143 then # #1246 to Highway #11 and #1203 into Uttaradit. (When I learn about BaseCamp I'll download my GPS; another tutorial Ally!)
Lots of technical riding in that lot, some on dirt roads where road-works are continuing.
Many steep ascents and descents and many hairpin bends. But hardly any traffic, so it's a wonderful area for riding.
Mental note to self: return, using Loei as a base.
Now in Uttaradit, where I hadn't been before, I used 'Go To' on the Montana to locate the 'Friday Hotel'.
Serendipity at work again though and we saw the huge 'Seeharaj Hotel'.
In exchange of 800 baht it offered secure bike parking, BATH TUB, 'fridge, TV, large and clean rooms, a luggage porter, elevators, massage service to the rooms, WiFi free 'all you can devour' breakfast and a SWIMMING POOL!
It even had a robe and matching slipper in the wardrobe!
(I have NEVER been anywhere where that was offered).
Seeharaj is at 163 Barom-Asana Road.
N 17.61512
E 100.09093
Highly recommend.
Almost opposite is the Hot Pot Buffet, where we got our monies worth.
N 17.61524
E 100. 09221
Another superb day on the road, with a happy ending (as they say).
I wasn't looking forward to tomorrow's ride to Chiang Mai as I hate Highways.
(continuing)
We had days to spare so decided to take the back roads, zig-zagging through National Parks and mountains to Uttaradit.
Initially, we rode the delightful #203 towards Dan Sai then discovered the Hi Fine Steak place at Phuruea where we ordered brunch and dallied for an hour or so in
this delightful setting.
I bought a couple of bottles of their 'Backmountain' wine (6%) to take home ...
... and we hungrily consumed a few items from their interesting menu.
This is a very pleasant stop.
They played subdued ethnic music and the service is excellent.
Recommend.
N 17.45139
E 101.42091
We rode #203, then onto #2013 past Ban Huai Tat to Dan Sai then # 2114 past Ban Na Thong and onto # 2195 past Charoenrat Bamrang Border Patrol Police box then #1268 past the Ban Na Po Border Patrol Police box (which were both open) and into a beautiful valley along # 1237 and at Chat Trakan we got onto #1143 then # #1246 to Highway #11 and #1203 into Uttaradit. (When I learn about BaseCamp I'll download my GPS; another tutorial Ally!)
Lots of technical riding in that lot, some on dirt roads where road-works are continuing.
Many steep ascents and descents and many hairpin bends. But hardly any traffic, so it's a wonderful area for riding.
Mental note to self: return, using Loei as a base.
Now in Uttaradit, where I hadn't been before, I used 'Go To' on the Montana to locate the 'Friday Hotel'.
Serendipity at work again though and we saw the huge 'Seeharaj Hotel'.
In exchange of 800 baht it offered secure bike parking, BATH TUB, 'fridge, TV, large and clean rooms, a luggage porter, elevators, massage service to the rooms, WiFi free 'all you can devour' breakfast and a SWIMMING POOL!
It even had a robe and matching slipper in the wardrobe!
(I have NEVER been anywhere where that was offered).
Seeharaj is at 163 Barom-Asana Road.
N 17.61512
E 100.09093
Highly recommend.
Almost opposite is the Hot Pot Buffet, where we got our monies worth.
N 17.61524
E 100. 09221
Another superb day on the road, with a happy ending (as they say).
I wasn't looking forward to tomorrow's ride to Chiang Mai as I hate Highways.
(continuing)
2wheels
Community Manager
24th November (final day)
Down #1105 and #11 via Lampang to Chiang Mai for a snack at Riders Corner.
We stopped a few times to rehydrate, including at a new roadside place that used this recycled tyre furniture.
Back at home my dear old friend 'Coke' was waiting for me; what a welcome ... one that only dogs can give!
Here 'Coke'; you're in RideAsia!
Conclusions.
1 The CRF250L
Both performed faultlessly. Neither needed oil or coolant and neither got a flat tyre.
No problems with clutch or cam chain tensioner!
The tour was just on 3000 km Chiang Mai - Chiang Mai - Doi Saket. Nice round figure.
We both respect the little bike even more after the tour than before.
As an example of fuel consumption, during the final day we did a 162.4 km stretch and topped it up with 4.4 litres of fuel.
That's 36.9 km/l.
Both bikes were always between 34 and 40 km/l.
We rode them gently, smoothly and usually cruised in the 80-90 kph bracket.
2 The Friendship
Nearly 40 years and no dents in the relationship.
We decided, at Loy Krathong, to give it another 40 years; that should test it!
Finally, a huge 'THANK YOU' to all those dusty little Loa roadside urchins who gave us wonderful smiles and shouted 'Sabaidee' as we road past.
Bless you all.
The End.
Down #1105 and #11 via Lampang to Chiang Mai for a snack at Riders Corner.
We stopped a few times to rehydrate, including at a new roadside place that used this recycled tyre furniture.
Back at home my dear old friend 'Coke' was waiting for me; what a welcome ... one that only dogs can give!
Here 'Coke'; you're in RideAsia!
Conclusions.
1 The CRF250L
Both performed faultlessly. Neither needed oil or coolant and neither got a flat tyre.
No problems with clutch or cam chain tensioner!
The tour was just on 3000 km Chiang Mai - Chiang Mai - Doi Saket. Nice round figure.
We both respect the little bike even more after the tour than before.
As an example of fuel consumption, during the final day we did a 162.4 km stretch and topped it up with 4.4 litres of fuel.
That's 36.9 km/l.
Both bikes were always between 34 and 40 km/l.
We rode them gently, smoothly and usually cruised in the 80-90 kph bracket.
2 The Friendship
Nearly 40 years and no dents in the relationship.
We decided, at Loy Krathong, to give it another 40 years; that should test it!
Finally, a huge 'THANK YOU' to all those dusty little Loa roadside urchins who gave us wonderful smiles and shouted 'Sabaidee' as we road past.
Bless you all.
The End.
Lao2stroker
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2011
- Bikes
- I have too many bikes....
That was such a great report and the pictures speak nearly as clear as you do...It's always so interesting to see someone else's perspective of places you've visited. You really give great context for everything you saw and hae such a great eye for the unique and picturesque scenes. Great job!!!
2wheels
Community Manager
Thank you Loa2stroker.
KTMphil
Senior member
This might be the best report you've ever done, I can imagine the effort that's gone into this & everyone that's read it i'm sure has enjoyed as much if not more than I have, thankyou so much.
(Like the RideLao sticker)
(Like the RideLao sticker)
Just Bob
Senior Member
2wheels
Community Manager
Thank you gentlemen; I enjoyed doing it.
2wheels, your fantastic report and stunning photos is an inspiration for our forthcoming trip we will be doing into Laos, and your generosity in sharing all the information is probably exceeded only by your good looks.....
A Big THANK YOU from the N4TION ADVLux Riders. We leave Rider's Corner the morning of 15Dec and enter Laos 18Dec 2012. Our pre-departure dinner will be at Rider's Corner on the evening of 14Dec. Hope to meet you there.
Cheers,
Nik.
A Big THANK YOU from the N4TION ADVLux Riders. We leave Rider's Corner the morning of 15Dec and enter Laos 18Dec 2012. Our pre-departure dinner will be at Rider's Corner on the evening of 14Dec. Hope to meet you there.
Cheers,
Nik.
2wheels
Community Manager
Thanks Nik.
OK, I'll see you at Riders; thanks for the invite.
Want to chat to you about a few things anyway.
" ... good looks"!!!! You have the wrong guy!
OK, I'll see you at Riders; thanks for the invite.
Want to chat to you about a few things anyway.
" ... good looks"!!!! You have the wrong guy!
Ally
Well-known member
Stunning Ron.
I cannot find more words to express total appreciation for your commitment to arranging & sharing a memorable ride with both your good friend Alan & the readers here.
And on that ... note the page views you have accrued on this thread! Awesome.
Well done.
Ally
I cannot find more words to express total appreciation for your commitment to arranging & sharing a memorable ride with both your good friend Alan & the readers here.
And on that ... note the page views you have accrued on this thread! Awesome.
Well done.
Ally