Ride Review: Saigon to Hanoi on a BMW GS. Failed to cross with my own bike, had to book a tour.

[madrick]

Thank you for letting me join the forum. Here i am about to share a trip report, plus update on crossing into Vietnam on a Thai motorbike.

So far, i have attempted to cross from Cambodia to Vietnam via Moc Bai border and they didnt let me in. So, i was so pissed off and really didnt wanted this to happen, but hey, i couldnt change this.

I then realized then, crossing with a foreign bike is not as easy as some people think (i read across the web). To do so, you need a local motorbike travel organizer to help with permit, so you can enter using the local agent's permit, which should be arranged in advance. This required you to book a tour, hotel, itinerary and so on. I find it complicated and gave up!

So, had to drive back to Bangkok and here i think about 2 options:

1: Fly to Hanoi and rent a bike and self ride
2: Book a guided tour

I eventually chose the tour for a reason. It was cheaper than if i arrange a permit and guide to bring my own GS. So i was like why not!

My review for the guided tour:

I've contacted a few tour provider and i ended up booking with irtouring run and organize by Hamid (Not sure if i can share his whatsapp here).

Within the 14 days, no 2 days were the same, we did a lot of dirt ride, the hotels we stayed was so far exceeded my expectations and overall, the service was great. The bike itself, the GS 2022, was in perfect shape, i just wish the tyres was a bit better, but that wasnt a major issue.

Hamid was really great to deal with, from the pick up and drop off, arranging my visa in last minute (this was a nightmare cuz i thought American do not need a visa, but it turns out we do need one) to the amazing experience, foods and fun on the ride, Hamid is a lead rider and he couldn’t do enough me, always there to help translate or just to check in, he is really professional and would try everything for you to enjoy the ride.

Hope this helps you guys and enjoy your ride.

 

[blackwolf]

Can you clarify when this crossing was attempted? You said it was on a Thai bike. Did you manage to enter Cambodia from Laos recently? If so, that would be the first report of a successful crossing with a Thai vehicle into Cambodia since the border crisis started. Obviously a direct crossing is impossible as the Thai-Cambodian borders are completely closed, but the Thailand-Laos-Cambodia crossing is of great interest to me.

It's important we get the exact information. There is only one confirmed report involving a Thai vehicle (motorcycles in this case) attempting a crossing from Laos to Cambodia since the border tensions began and that was in early February of this year and mentioned on the Foreign Motorcyclists in Thailand Facebook page. The motorcycles were initially approved for entry then they were denied by the head of customs due to the present tensions. That was the only reason they were denied entry in the end. The riders were western expats, not Thais.

However, despite lingering tensions right now, there is a slightly improved chance of a Thai vehicle being allowed entry into Cambodia from Laos in recent months, but it's such an unknown that only someone who can afford to waste some time finding out would take the risk.

I personally believe the chance of entry being allowed remain relatively low, so it would be good if you could clarify your situation.

 

[Snakeboy]

If one wants to ride in Vietnam solo - renting a bike is a no brainer. Its so much fuzz crossing borders nowadays that it just doesnt make sense. One can rent a Honda XR150L (the GOAT for Vietnam) for approx 500 $ a month and return it at a different location.

If one prefer to ride in a group tour from Thailand to Vietnam there are some western expats based in Thailand who do tours every year - seems like great fun and isnt too costly as they share the guide and permit expenses. One could ask politely to join.

 

[madrick]

Can you clarify when this crossing was attempted? You said it was on a Thai bike. Did you manage to enter Cambodia from Laos recently? If so, that would be the first report of a successful crossing with a Thai vehicle into Cambodia since the border crisis started. Obviously a direct crossing is impossible as the Thai-Cambodian borders are completely closed, but the Thailand-Laos-Cambodia crossing is of great interest to me.

It's important we get the exact information. There is only one confirmed report involving a Thai vehicle (motorcycles in this case) attempting a crossing from Laos to Cambodia since the border tensions began and that was in early February of this year and mentioned on the Foreign Motorcyclists in Thailand Facebook page. The motorcycles were initially approved for entry then they were denied by the head of customs due to the present tensions. That was the only reason they were denied entry in the end. The riders were western expats, not Thais.

However, despite lingering tensions right now, there is a slightly improved chance of a Thai vehicle being allowed entry into Cambodia from Laos in recent months, but it's such an unknown that only someone who can afford to waste some time finding out would take the risk.

I personally believe the chance of entry being allowed remain relatively low, so it would be good if you could clarify your situation.

i crossed from Lao to Cambodia together with a Lao guy.

 

[blackwolf]

i crossed from Lao to Cambodia together with a Lao guy.

With your Thai bike? Really? Can you explain a bit more? That was this year? What month? No issues for Cambodian customs seeing a Thai bike?

 

[blackwolf]

Any updates? This thread is mysteriously quiet. Why can't we get a proper answer as to 1) WHEN the trip from Laos to Cambodia took place (month and year) 2) was it a Thai bike? 3) what did Cambodian customs say? Did they process the entry smoothly?

That's like the most interesting part of this entire thread, the fact it is claimed a Thai bike made the crossing and from the sounds of it, recently.

Not being able to enter Vietnam without a tour isn't exactly groundbreaking and frankly, not of much interest. Everyone knows a tour is needed.

I'd be much more interested in knowing whether a Thai car or bike can enter Cambodia from Laos given the current tensions that still exist between Thailand and Cambodia (even if slightly reduced from last year). It would also be useful to find out how locals (and the police) react to a Thai vehicle being ridden inside Cambodia right now. Any hostility?

The only promising development of late is that the Cambodian customs app is now accessible from abroad again, since around 2 months. This means in theory, a Thai vehicle could enter Cambodia from Laos but due to almost zero interest among Thais (which is obvious) and very few expats resident in Thailand who own Thai registered vehicles having attempted this recently, all I can do is guess.

Are you sure your bike is Thai registered? Or did you go with a Lao bike?

 

[madrick]

Hey everyone,

Sorry for some reasons, messages from this website went straight into my spam box, not sure why.

Sorry for my confusing post while on a beer o'clock and to confuse you all:

1: I own a Thai registered GS but I crossed into Cambodia on a Lao bike with a local mate. I knew I can't do it (99%) with a Thai bike due to the tensions. HOWEVER, I read somewhere, a guy attempted and they let him go after questioning him for an hour or so (I can't claim this ).

2: For vietnam, yea, booking a tour is needed if you want to ride enter with a foreign bike, know this, a tour is meticulously cheaper (that's what I did with a tour organizer in Hanoi).

If anything els about vietnam, id be happy to answer.

Cheers

 

[blackwolf]

Ok, appreciate the clarification. What month did this trip happen?

It sounds like you decided not to attempt the entry into Cambodia on your Thai bike and went for the Lao bike option instead, rather than seeing what customs would say. The fact that someone tried and was successful, even if was questioned at first, is a decent sign. It means that they profiled him based on having a Thai bike, but didn't see him as a security threat and thus allowed entry in the end.

I think there is an increased chance of a Thai bike or car being allowed across the Lao-Cambodian border now (with cars being more likely to be successful). Before I give it a try, I'll get my Cambodian business contact to call the head of customs at that border. If there is any hesitation or he says it's a no, I won't bother going.

I won't even get in touch with him until a couple of weeks before my intended crossing, so probably not until October as a lot can happen between now and then.

Yes, the tour for Vietnam is definitely the only way in. I wonder why you didn't attempt a direct entry into Vietnam from Laos, especially on a Lao bike? I suspect a tour would still be necessary even then, though having a Lao rider go in with you, would have increased your chances.

 

[blackwolf]

Just to provide a recent update on one more point: the Cambodian customs app / website is again not functioning outside of Cambodia (yet it was, last month and in late June). That however, may not necessarily be connected with the Thai-Cambodian tensions, but rather, a calculated decision to avoid being the subject of attacks against government websites, particularly with the scam center crackdown occurring. I'll continue checking every week or two, to see if this changes.

I don't know for sure what the actual reason for the geoblocking is (which is global; I tested this by toggling my VPN server to different foreign countries and it was inaccessible from all of them).

However, since my VPN provider has a Cambodian server, I was able to access it just fine, while connected to this server. The only issue is, I don't want to take the risk of a denial of entry, even if I turn up with my pre-printed customs form when I arrive at Lao customs, they'll probably get me to ask the Cambodian side on foot first. It's better, given I already have the Cambodian customs officer's phone number, to give him a call before getting there, to spare myself any difficulties and to not waste time.

When entering Laos, you have to specify an exit point right there. It generally can't be changed at the exit border. While they're flexible enough if you show up at a different Thai-Lao crossing to the one mentioned when you return home to Thailand, if you're exiting for a third country, in this case, Cambodia, you can't have the name of a Thai-Lao crossing mentioned on the D53 customs sticker. It has to specify "Nong Nokkien" or the Laotians will turn you away and tell you to get it changed at your entrance point.

In case of a denial of entry, the Lao side would probably be able to fix the problem on the spot or at the exit border. Meanwhile, they told me it couldn't be done if I show up at Nong Nokkien without the sticker showing I'll be exiting there. In other words, they kind of have to accommodate you if a third country doesn't allow entry (something that can apply to a Vietnam crossing too) but they won't be as flexible if you intend on crossing to a third country but don't follow Laos' own customs rule to a T.