North west China to the Tibet border

[harrygps]

Wow, very impressing report with beautiful amazing pics. Thank you for this, Phil

 

[2wheels]

...... and not one open-toilet photo.
Thanks Phil!

 

[KTMphil]

Late dusk in sgl





another great traditional outfit

 

[KTMphil]

There is a suppermarket at the nth end of the old town in sgl location

Latitude : 27.81832 (27°49′05.941″N)
Longitude : 99.70256 (99°42′09.224″E)
Accuracy of signal : 5.0 m
show on google maps

 

[KTMphil]

Another top shelf hotel choice in sgl is the du hi ni mi hotel 750 rmb a night ..3750 bht

location

Latitude : 27.82295 (27°49′22.623″N)
Longitude : 99.70247 (99°42′08.887″E)
Accuracy of signal : 5.0 m
show on google maps

 

[KTMphil]

Tara Gallery restaurant

 

[2wheels]

All those traditional costumes you are showing us are amazing Phil.

 

[KTMphil]

One thing I forgot to mention I'd try and shower in the early evenings in NW china. The reason being that most small hotels
Only use rooftop solar water heaters. The water will be the warmest in the early eve and cold by morning

 

[activechina]

Awesome adventure:RO, Phil. Glad you've made it, I know it's not easy to travel in China. Come again in a dryer season we gonna ride some good trails together.

 

[KTMphil]

If you want to try the famous yak stone hotpot in Shangri La, try the Zang XI Tibet restaurant in the old town, Location:

Latitude : 27.81595 (27°48′57.432″N)
Longitude : 99.70512 (99°42′18.419″E)
Accuracy of signal : 10.0 m
show on google maps










A white looking, oily soup to cook the yak in, with a few prunes





A wicker lid to speed up the heating of the soup. The yak comes sliced and pre-cured and air dried





Tasted exactly like ruben from New York, exactly like it, i would have it again for sure










The rain stops in SGL & the sun comes out

 

[Mark Rossi]

Amazing adventure Phil. Congratulations and thanks for sharing vital info so others can follow.

 

[2wheels]

Agree; welcome back Phil and thanks for the ride.

 

[KTMphil]

Panoramic shot of Deqin, which is 60km south of the Tibet border checkpoint and 180km north of Shangri La. An ancient trading town from the tea horse caravan days, its location in the valley made me think they must have had hundreds of landslide drama's

 

[MustakimQZ]

Looks like an awesome trip Phil. Superb photos.

 

[KTMphil]

Maps of the route taken to the Tibet border


Remember: These may not look like huge distance days, but these are broken mountain roads with huge trucks and buses, so mostly a full days moving time.



Day 1 - Kunming city west to Chuxion 260km










Day 2 - Chuxion to Dali 240 km








Day 3 Dali to Shaxi 160 km









Day 4 - Shaxi to Lijian 120km








Day 5 - Lijian - Tiger Leaping Gorge - Shangri La 200km









Day 6 - Shangri La to Deqin 190km









Day 7 Deqin to Tibet border 210km











Day 8 - Wexei Mekong river road back north to Deqin (Landslide road closed), then south to Shangri La 310km

 

[KTMphil]

Tiger Leaping Gorge

 

[KTMphil]

This Tibetan gentleman sang me a Tibetan song in a restaurant in Deqin

 

[KTMphil]

Traditional dancing in Shangri La

 

[2wheels]

sang me a Tibetan song in a restaurant in Deqin

So now I'm expecting the same from you Phil when I next dine at Riders Corner.
Hmmm, on second thoughts ....

 

[Steve Canyon]

Running out of time, it was now time to head north as far as i could to the Tibetan checkpoint. Rob got arrested when he went to this checkpoint, was held overnight in a strange GH and let free in the morning, so have to be a bit careful up there. Its still only possible, as a foreign passport holder to enter Tibet in a 5 group minimum with permits issued in advance.

So northbound again on R G214 following the river, a great looking suspension bridge here


View attachment 6856


I bet she's seen some changes up here near the Tibet border


View attachment 6857


Another suspension bridge

View attachment 6858



& then to the Tibetan checkpoint barrier. knowing what happened to Rob, I stopped 50 meters before the barrier checkpoint and got my camera out. IMMEDIATELY, 2guys ran at me from the checkpoint hut one grabbed my arm and one grabbed the bike, the were both shouting at the policeman to my right to come over. Knowing was about to happen, luckily the bike was sill running i shouted "no problem" at them, which startled them and managed to accelerate out of their grips and u turn and head south away from the border checkpoint.


Below is one photo i managed to take at the border, ahead is the police and military hut with the barrier in the up position. You can make out the guy in the black in front of me holding the bike.

View attachment 6859

Brave stuff old chap!

What's the Koo with the legality of your trip? I'd loved to ride in those mountains...:RO

Well done mate..:MJ

 

[rhiekel]

Damn the river at Tiger Leaping Gorge was rocking when you were there.... Guess it was rainy season ?? :-) :-)
Here it is when I was there, quite a bit less violent. This is the spot where the tiger is supposed to have leaped across using the rock in the middle...


Here is part of the trail down. Scary beyond belief ,with a narrow rocky trail cut into the rock, and a few cheesy posts with a wire on top to save you from the 300 foot fall. The girl in front of me was actually crying with fear...

 

[mikehohman]

Lucky for you about the girl in front of you, her crying must have muffled out your own whimpers...

Mike

 

[rhiekel]

Lucky for you about the girl in front of you, her crying must have muffled out your own whimpers...

Mike

Hahaha. Wait how did you know that ???........

When our group came to this sign, we went to the left on the " safe" path. So once again the fact was proven to me all things are relative.. I cannot even imagine what the " dangeroos" ladder was like.

 

[screamingeagle]

jealous and awed

[/QUOTE]

Have not been to Shangri la for about 8 years and then by train and bus. Left from Kunming as well. Trying to remember
the walled "city" there.
To me this an awesome undertaking as I did it in relative luxury. How you finding the altitude?

Like the roadside loos? Remember stopping at one where your bum hung out over a very deep gorge. Watch out below!

Any trouble walking up the temple steps?

Happy trails

 

[KTMphil]

SE-

Yep at first the altitude was a problem, out of breathe quickly, but did find every day you adjusted more to it. The bike didn't like to start when hot at altitude (carb bike), had me worried when exploring off the beaten track.


This time stayed away from ALL the Chinese public toilets!! I find China fascinating.

Have not been to Shangri la for about 8 years and then by train and bus. Left from Kunming as well. Trying to remember
the walled "city" there.
To me this an awesome undertaking as I did it in relative luxury. How you finding the altitude?

Like the roadside loos? Remember stopping at one where your bum hung out over a very deep gorge. Watch out below!

Any trouble walking up the temple steps?

Happy trails

 

[KTMphil]

A Honda WH 125 J-B, that's used by the Chinese Police in Kunming, might make a good touring bike choice in China, but underpowered.

 

[esspressolungo]

Absolutely awesome, thanks for sharing this. Great photos and report.

 

[Lone Rider]

When our group came to this sign, we went to the left on the " safe" path. So once again the fact was proven to me all things are relative.. I cannot even imagine what the " dangeroos" ladder was like.

This is how the "dangeroos ladder" looks like and how someone describes it: After watching the rapids for a while it was time to head back up to the road. This was via a very steep path up a cleft between cliff faces, with two ladders, the first of which was 20 meters high. The ladder itself is probably at least 1 meter off the rock face so there is nothing around to hold to steady yourself, and the ladder wobbles.

 

[lukeyam]

Great riding report of Yunnan, China

A Honda WH 125 J-B, that's used by the Chinese Police in Kunming, might make a good touring bike choice in China, but underpowered.



View attachment 7421

Phil,
A wonderful and detail ride report of Yunnan China.
Packed with beautiful photos and useful travel information.
I am totally envy of your riding trip in Yunnan.
I will be doing similar area solo but backpacking (lack of bike) in Sept.
I'll be visiting the famous RidersCorner Nov 1st. and hopefully you'll
be around at that time.



Luke

 

[Steve Canyon]

Brave stuff old chap!

What's the Koo with the legality of your trip? I'd loved to ride in those mountains...:RO

Well done mate..:MJ

Is it a secret Phil?

 

[KTMphil]

Chris - to do it 100% legal, you need to get a temporary Chinese driving permit

Is it a secret Phil?

 

[2wheels]

Do you know how that is done Phil? (or anyone)

 

[KTMphil]

Do you know how that is done Phil? (or anyone)

You need a Chinese agent to arrange it.

 

[nikhuzlan]

Phil, fantastic trail blazing. Gutsy too, going solo. This is a wonderful thread.

 

[lukeyam]

If you're planning to come to this region, the most interesting area to explore is around the Shangri La area. There are daily flights from Kunming to Shangri La for about 4,000 bht. There are places you can rent motorcycles in Shangri La.

View attachment 7018


This bike rental shop is in SGL's old town, location:

Latitude : 27.81453 (27°48′52.304″N)
Longitude : 99.70407 (99°42′14.647″E)
Accuracy of signal : 20.0 m
show on google maps



View attachment 7019


View attachment 7020

I am now in SGL and one of my Hostel-mates want to rent motorcycle to go explore the area.
A tourguide took us to his sister motorcycle operation (I think is the only one in town). She came
down from her upstair places and told us it would be 300Y ($50) per day. She only have two motorcycles
in her whole fleet. They are both 150cc (which remind me of the Tibetan farmer motorcycle). Both motorycle
were in terrible shape, with most signals hanging with no lights etc, you can tell not being serviced and was told they are
10 yrs old.
My Hostel-mate (A young German) told them if it possible be 200Y, she said NO! but when we walking out I heard "at least 250Y" Anyway He did not rent it.
When I walk in with the tourguide and the German I immediately recognized the place in this ride report.
For comparson , I rented a 90cc scooter(look brand new) from my Hostel for 90Y a day in Yangshou and 12Y per hours for electric scooter in Dali (Jade Emu Hostel). The electric scooters were very fun around town but won't go up steep hill with me on them.

Luke

 

[KTMphil]

Good info, thanks for the update Luke.

I am now in SGL and one of my Hostel-mates want to rent motorcycle to go explore the area.
A tourguide took us to his sister motorcycle operation (I think is the only one in town). She came
down from her upstair places and told us it would be 300Y ($50) per day. She only have two motorcycles
in her whole fleet. They are both 150cc (which remind me of the Tibetan farmer motorcycle). Both motorycle
were in terrible shape, with most signals hanging with no lights etc, you can tell not being serviced and was told they are
10 yrs old.
My Hostel-mate (A young German) told them if it possible be 200Y, she said NO! but when we walking out I heard "at least 250Y" Anyway He did not rent it.
When I walk in with the tourguide and the German I immediately recognized the place in this ride report.
For comparson , I rented a 90cc scooter(look brand new) from my Hostel for 90Y a day in Yangshou and 12Y per hours for electric scooter in Dali (Jade Emu Hostel). The electric scooters were very fun around town but won't go up steep hill with me on them.

Luke