N4TI*ON ADVLux Tour 2012. The Full Story.

[KTMphil]

Very interesting discussion on equipment Nik - I would agree about the Continental TKC 80 tires, they are the best choice for Laos if you're going exploring. If nearly all tarmac and a little gravel, then the Pirelli Scorpion MT 90's are a better choice.

 

[2wheels]

Very, very nice.
I especially enjoyed the Luang Prabang by night pics Nik; good idea, not done by many.
And VV is just so stunning it's difficult not to make good photos there!

 

[nikhuzlan]

N4TION ADVLux

Day 7. 9jan2013 Vang Vieng - Khon Kaen

The plan was to exit Laos and ride straight to Khon Kaen, a distance of just under 400kms.
We left Vang Vieng early for Vientiane where we will cross into Thailand.

Bye Bye Laos, till next time.

We stayed at Kosa Hotel, Khon Kaen.

N4TION ADVLux

Day 8, 10jan2013 Khon Kaen - Prasat


The plan was to ride as close to the Cambodian border as possible so we can start early the next day.
After kilometers of tarmac we took a detour before arriving Prasat. This area is as flat as it was mountanous at Phu Chi Fa.
There is no high ground at all and the horizon can be seen all round.
The countryside is dominated by vast tracts of padi fields and looks to me we are passing by just before the planting season starts.

Thai Grasslands

The problem with grassland riding is the hidden potholes in the tall grass.

We had an amazing lunch at a small unassuming restaurant by the roadside just outside Surin.

N4TION AVLux

Day 9, 11jan2013 Prasat - Siem Reap


i had butterflies in my stomach as we left the Hotel at Prasat for a short 35km ride to the border at O Smach, Cambodia, Events of the Nan rejection in Laos was still fresh in my head, and I find it hard to live with the inconsistent rules being applied liberally at the behest of the officer of the day

The Border was more 'organised' than expected. There's a casino on the Cambodian side, proper Immigration and Customs building manned by polite people.

We cleared the Thai side easily

Cambodian Immigration. We met a helpful Cambodian minder who spoke excellent english. He approached us
and asked if we needed help. I asked him, how much? He said just pay whatever is fair value. Cool guy.

As soon as we got the all clear, we covered our headlights to comply with the local law where motorcycles should not have their headlights on during daytime.

The last barrier ( for Customs ) before Cambodia proper

Cambodia

Roads are amazingly good, and devoid of traffic.

We headed for Anlong Veng, the place where Pol Pot was buried. This means a detour off the main road to Siem Reap
adding 120km to the distance.

Eddy, Hisham, Dato Kamarul

Sam & Capt Amin

Pol Pot was buried very near the Thai border, on high ground at the tail end of the low altitude Dangrek Mountains.

His grave has been cordoned off to prevent abuse by visitors, who have been known to pee in his grave. This is a man who sits right up there with Hitler, heading the Council of the Mad and Insane. A Cambodian who is actually Chinese, he wanted to his country to be self sufficient, and to do so, he planned to put in agrgarian reforms, where the country returns back to basics where people live off the land. in this process, intellect is a threat, adrift from his aspirations. Widespread Genocide were carried out to eradicate anyone suspected of being a hindrance. Even babies were not spared. It was a period of unspeakable cruelty and about 155 of the population was decimated.
Ironically it was Vietnam, a Foreign force, that saved the citizens of Cambodia from being killed by their fellow countryman.

Lunch stop

We rode past the countryside, and stopped to buy drinks by the roadside,

Sam had a photo with this cheery young girl who came to buy something from the shop

Dato' Kamarul played Santa, handing out candies.

Everything became more orderly as we approached Siem Reap

Creative use of available space

We stayed at MyHibiscus Hotel, a Malaysian owned hotel that's Halal. But the Hotel could have been much better run.
Mel and Roh were waiting for us when we arrived. They flew in from KL a day before.

That night the bus came to pick us up for dinner at the market street.

We will be in Siem Reap for 4 nights playing tourists.

 

[KTMphil]

This must be one of the most beautifully documented ride reports out there, the photo's never get boring, amazing.


Something interesting Nik pointed out to me today was, that this that RideAsia.net is the first website in the world to have a report with the new water-cooled BMW 1200 GS in it!!



From Nik:

"BTW, do you realise that Rideasia is the first website in the world to have an independent report of the GS watercooled? Also the first website to have pictures of those outside factory connections to ride the bike.

We rode the water boxer jan 8. The Press launch was on Jan 23rd, and news release was only allowed jan 25th. You do know of course Kevin Ash, the moto journalist was killed during the press ride in South Sfrica right"?

 

[nikhuzlan]

N4TION ADVLux

Day 10, 12jan2013 Siem Reap

Today we play Tourists at Siem Reap. Everybody did their own thing. Dato' Kamarul's wife, Datin Rozita flew in from KL to join us at Siem Reap.
Capt Amin also got his wife to fly over to join us as well. Both will ride out from Siem Reap to Bangkok where we will transport our bikes to Hatyai,
while we fly home from Swarnabumi Airport.

That night Kamarul, Sam, our Cambodian Tuk Tuk driver and me rode over to Angkor Wat on our bikes at close to midnight.
Eddy and Mel decided to hang out at a wine bar so they did not come.
We wanted to shoot silhouette shots of the magnificent complex against the backdrop of stars.
The thought of paranormal activities were not considered despite knowing that we will be hanging out at a Spiritual place
that has probably seen fierce fighting and bloodshed.

We got there at about 11pm. We parked our bikes at the front of the main causeway that leads to the Angkor Temple and started setting up our camera. Kamarul has some fancy camera stuff and lenses, while I was using my trusty Sony RX100 pocket camera.

The place was totally deserted, much to our surprise, a complete contrast to the huge crowd in the daytime.

My Sony camera struggle with focus as it was a totally dark moonless night.
Kamarul was struggling with his as well, focusing manually.

As we shot a few shots, i heard distinct shuffling of feet, like slippers shuffling on pebble strewn tarmac. Out of the corner of my eyes i noticed some movements. It however disappeared as soon as i looked at it directly, but its always present in my peripheral vision. Shortly thereafter i heard someone clearing his throat and caught something out of the corner of my eye as I looked in the direction. For some reason i did not feel spooked, and i somehow got the message of curiosity rather than a sinister or evil one.

I walked towards Sam and Kamarul and I noticed they too saw some movements behind the nearby trees. At that time no one mentioned anything.

Then we saw what looked like a Police car approaching from afar, and we were prepared to be at least questioned.
I even mentioned it to the others.
The car however stopped about 300 meters away, then it did a quick u-turn and drove away, much to our surprise.
We were still determined to get our shots despite the gently emerging spooky feeling that seems to envelop us.

Finally someone said " There's somebody here " and we all concurred, with Kamarul shining his torch towards the trees.
Our Tuk Tuk boy mentioned casually " I think its ghosts ". Moments later there was an orchestra of wailing dogs, the sound of which
was sufficient to make us all feel errie.

We packed up, and Kamarul executed his first and fastest full lock feet up uturn on his GSA and we rode back to our hotel.

We spoke about it when we got back and we all agreed that there was clear presence of things we could not explain.

The masterstroke of the whole event was when Kamarul examined his photos one of them showed something none of us can figure out.

His shot of Angkor Wat did show the silhouette of the temple quite clearly, but on closer examination,
there were two square lights where there were none when we were there looking live.
When enlarged the square light contained a silhoutte of someone or something 'looking' at us.

My first paranormal experience had it all; I felt, heard and saw it, whatever it was.

And I guess this must be the answer for the lingering question - why was there absolutely no security around the
very valuable main Temple Complex of Angkor Wat at night. It looks so easy for anyone to walk in and just chisel away at
any of the millions of stone artifacts.

I guess we had our answer that night

This is not Dato' Kamarul's photo. Its the picture of the police car about driving away.

I hope to post the photo in question soon.

 

[retroman]

""N4TION ADVLux

Day 6. 8jan2013 Vang Vieng

Today we intend to do nothing, just laze around. But as we were having breakfast, we heard the GS at the car park and when we went out to check, we saw Eric withthe BMW instructor looking to borrow some soares from us. It turns out that the rented Thai GSA had a siezed rear brake. The pads were worn right through. They wanted to borrow brake pads but when I saw the rear disc, i told them that they gonna need a new disc as well as the one on the bike is all burnt and badly warped.
Eventually they secured the bike and a spare Kawasaki KLR was sent from Vientiane, arriving in the afternoon.
Eric then hung out with us until midday.
Plans have been made for Eric to possibly join us on our Borneo trip this year end ""



......... I can see something is"poppin" up by year end .., around those bushes near me ...,

 

[nikhuzlan]

N4TION ADVLux


Day 12, 14jan2013 Siem Reap

Another day doing the touristy bit, this time to the Water Village at Tonle Sap.

Cambodia actually did not exist 10,000 years ago. It lay submerged below the South China Sea, between two Peninsula; Vietnam and parts of Thailand to the west. As the Mekong poured silt into the ocean ( just south of Laos then ) it gradually filled up the bay. The Mekong delta emerged from the seabed.
This is why Cambodia is such a flat country with what was formerly islands standing out to become hills in a vast alluvial plain. It was estimated that with the Mekong's vast flow from the melted snow of Tibet, coupled with the heavy tropical rainfall, the bay filled up within 10,000years.

The sea was eventually outflanked, and part of it became an inland sea. This was the predecessor of Tonle Sap, now the world's richest fishing ground, yeilding at least 20 times of produce as compared to the North Atlantic.

The Mekong plays a great role in maintaining the fish stocks of the Tonle Sap. As the rainy season comes, between June and October, the Mekong flows into the Tonle Sap, making the lake 4 times bigger, and raising the water level by at least 20 feet. Fish spawn, and swim across the plains of Cambodia. At the end of the rainy season the water reverses flow and drains out into the sea. Peasants have an easy time plucking the fish trapped even in shrubs as the water recedes.

Man learned how to capitalise on this and plan their agricultural lives around this event. Planting, harvesting, fishing and all activities are scheduled around the movement of Tonle Sap.

There are a number of water villages floating in Tonle Sap. Most are almost self sustaining, some live and die there. Even boatbuilding is done while afloat.
Most of these waterworld villagers are not Cambodian locals. Many are Vietnamese in origin, and their inability to get land forced them to be stateless villagers floating on Tonle Sap.

We will visit this place today.


A one hour tuk tuk ride on roads that we wish we brought our GS instead.

We got to the jetty and boarded our boat.

This is the starter system for the boat. Just touch the dangling wire to the nail and the engine will start.
Everytime without fail.
It makes a joke of the BMW starter switch problems that has haunted the BMW bikes to no end.

We passed these perilously built houses on 20ft stilts that lined the canal leading to the lake.
Designed to cater for the vast change of Tonle Sap water level, its an impressive sight.

Our boat was a father and son enterprise. Dad sleeps while son drives....

Riverside restaurants only accessible by boat.

The boat was slow. It was a painstaking one hour before we get to the water village.

They even have their own basketball court.

We returned using the jetty closer to town

Surprisingly we saw this mosque near the jetty. There must be a sizeable number of Muslims here,
probably survivors of the Khmer Rouge era.

After a short rest at the hotel, we were picked up at the hotel by this van. Any idea of a surprise as to where we were
heading came apart when we saw the van.

Pre Flight Picture.

Getting strapped in

Airborne

Banteay Srei, Citadel of Women, seen from 400ft up. Made of pinkish sandstone in the 10th century, its about 30 minutes by road from the main Angkor Wat complex. Its small size, excellent decorative carvings and remarkable state of restoration makes it a firm favourite amongst the knowledgeables. Originally called Isvarapura, it was built by a Brahmin who was a spiritual teacher to Jayavarman V. This explains the resemblance of some carvings that looks Indian.
"Discovered" by the french in 1914, it was a subject of a huge scandal in 1923 when a young frenchman, Malraux was caught stealing artifacts in a meticulously planned raid on the Temple. Most of the stolen items were returned.
Another feature of this temple was that it sems to be built as a miniature temple, all doors and entrance are about 60% in size compared to other temples. The quality of carvings and its intricate designs however makes up for its shortcomings in size.

Situated 12km from Angkor Complex, sitting on a hill at the edge of Tonle Sap, Phnom Krom is a spectacular Hindu temple
that is now run by Buddhist Monks. Built about the 9th century by Yasorvarman 1. Its a small complex covering 10 acres with three main towers that has survived the test of time intact, although the surrounding facades are all eroded as friable sandstone was used for its construction.

From Phnom Krum we overfly the Water village.

Banteay Samre, another Hindu Temple built in the 12th century during the reign of Suryavarman II. Dedicated to Vishnu, its somewhat isolated from the rest of the complex. Elaborate architecture, with fine carvings are still obvious despite being mutilated by theft and natural erosion. It is still the most complete of all complexes due to restoration work carried out decades ago, although the lack of maintenance of late leaves obvious adverse effects on the facade.

Angkor Wat looks just as majestic from the air. Its from this vantage one can really appreciate the size of the World's biggest Religious complex that dwarfs even the Great Pyramids of Giza in size.

This small temple is largely ignored by visitors, making it a favourite amongst locals as a wedding venue.

All too soon we were back on the ground.

With the sun low over the horizon, we returned to spend our last night in Siem Reap.

 

[2wheels]

re Scams at Angkor

Angkor Entrance Guards and Scam by the Sokimex Group Cambodia: Traveling Mark

 

[nikhuzlan]

re Scams at Angkor

Angkor Entrance Guards and Scam by the Sokimex Group Cambodia: Traveling Mark

That is so sad. But this is a biking trip, so I steer away from having an opinion ( trust me, I have strong passionate feelings for fairplay too )
lest i stray away from the reason why i embarked on this ride.

On this journey, I encounter " unfair play " at almost every corner. From the Border Crossing shenanigans when i leave Malaysia, the thinly disguised Massage Parlours dealing in some form of human trafficking, the abuse that goes on in the Myanmar refugee camps, the displacement of the Long necks, issues with Hmongs etc etc. Its a sad world we live in. Even seemingly idyllic Krabi has its dark side dealing with the Rohingya boat people. At home in Malaysia there are also problems stemming from abuse, incompetence and general uncaring attitude. Its everywhere in many forms, some in your face, others subtle, all equally bad.

But, At this time I'd prefer to focus on just riding stories, and selfishly ignore these human issues. And assure myself that people are generally good as per many positive encounters on our journey; when Kamarul left his iphone5 on a table in Vang Vieng and someone delivered it back to him in Vientiane within 12 hours. Or the oh so friendly villagers where Hisham was hit by the pick-up truck. And all the help we got from David and Mai in Chiang Khong. The generous gentleman at the OSmach Border who assisted with our Cambodian entry, not expecting any reward. The mechanics at triumph who went out of their way to help. The BMW Barcelona Mechanic who checked out Mel's GS then sent it to the hotel; all free.
Mankind is just amazing. Its just that some people never fail to give problems.

There will be a time for sympathetic and charitable thoughts, and a plan of action to contribute.

Anyway, we are now at the tail end of this amazing journey and now that I'm home, its the good things that i remember and miss, and that makes me wanna go again. And Again.

 

[nikhuzlan]

N4TION ADVLux


Day 13, 15jan2013 Siem Reap - Bangkok


The ride is virtually over. The journey home starts. True to the Spirit of ADVLux, we avoid boring roads ( highways generally ) like a cat would avoid a dog, and our plans constantly change as we ride along to ensure maximum enjoyment throughout.
In Luang Prabang we extended another day. An additional day was also spent in Siem Reap. Eventually, the plan to ride home was
aborted and it was decided we will truck the bikes to Hatyai from Bangkok, and we fly straight home. We will pick up our bikes after a week from Hatyai. That way we do not have to ride the 1,200km of Thai highway home.


Hisham decided to ride home straight, while Sam had to be back one day earlier, so both of them rode out yesterday, Hisham directl to Hua Hin, while Sam will park his bike in Bangkok, fly home, and we will organise trucking his bike to Hatyai.


Breakfast

Today there were 4 riders; Eddy, Capt Amin ( + wife Gee ) Dato Kamarul ( Datin Rozita ) and me ( Gerry ). Before we left, all 7 of us lined up for a group photo with the hotel staff, who have been so attentive throughout.

Leaving the Hotel

Highway 6 runs almost straight to the border.

A common practice here, this scene excites the wives riding pillion. We missed a shot of a moped with what looks like at least 200 live chickens strung on 4 poles being taken to the market.

We agreed this is probably a pedigree pig, travelling Business class.

Reaching Poipet we fought for space with these monstrous man powered pushcarts. I think the Cambodians do not allow pick-up trucks to ply in and out like most other borders, so locals use this push-cart system.

"VIP? Park here. 100bhat passport clear go Thailand vely fast"

True to his word, our passports came back in 10 minutes avoiding what could possibly be a two hour struggle.
Bye bye Cambodia.

Entering Thailand was swift, and we found ourselves in this restaurant run by a Malay Thai from Pattani, and speaks my lingo.
We ordered lunch, and the food was good.

It was a 2 1/2 hour ride to Bangkok and we got there at dusk.

We chose a hotel close to the airport, and after checking in I rode with Eddy to another hotel where Sam parked his bike.
Eddy then rode the bike back to our hotel, and loaded it onto the waiting transporter.

Tomorrow we will fly back from Swarnabumi, Bangkok Airport, back home.

 

[nikhuzlan]

[size=14pt]N4TION ADVLux


Day 14, 16jan2013 Bangkok - Kuala Lumpur[/size]


Capt Amin and Fauziah departed from Don Muang on an Air Asia flight back to KL as he gets good discount given that he works as a Captain on the A320 aircraft.


As for Eddy, Gerry and Me, we flew MAS out of Swarnabumi. It was just a short taxi ride from our hotel. We accompanied Dato' Kamarul to Peera's factory, which also serves as the Thailand Touratech HQ. Plenty of toys for the boys to spend money on.


Saw some nice bikes in Peera's collection. The KTM and Africa Twin sitting there were all decked out

Unusual for those familiar with the GS/A. The ESA button replaced by ABS. Puzzling.

Checking - In at Swarnabumi.

We were hoping of getting the whole cabin to ourselves, but other pax gradually came in.

Quite a change from Air Asia.

I found out that the Captain was a former colleague of mine. I remember him well as i conducted his Command interview when he was promoted as a Captain on the Boeing 737. I was the Chief Pilot for Narrow Body Operations then. Nice guy so i joined him in the cockpit. This plane, 9M-MMA was Malaysia Airlines' first B737-400. I flew this same aircraft way back in 1992, twenty years ago.
Its like homecoming for me.

We landed at KLIA right on schedule.


The N4TION ADVLux is over. It took almost two months and its now over.


When I initially thought of doing this ride, I knew more than a few friends will follow. Although the route we planned to ride on is a fairly common one done by many bikers before, I was determined to make sure that we do it differently. We want to take our time and stop at places others just ride through. we want to take pictures of places we never knew existed. I know through experience 14 days will be about the maximum most people can leave their family and work before feeling something is amiss. And i want to avoid this distraction. Then there's the element of getting a series of off days consecutively. Not everyone can pull it off.
The decision to sectionalise by segments allowed many of the riders to follow.


Time saving arrangements were also planned for, one of which was transportation of our bikes by lorry over long distances of highway. This gave us more time at the destination, time better spent than droning on thousands of kilometres of highway, with monotonous scenery providing little relief from boredom.


Daily riding distances were kept low. Although we have always budgeted for not more than 8 hours on the road, on-bike time was limited to a maximum of 5 hours at most. Highway and good tarmac riding were planned for a maximum of 550km, while on some days it got as low as 200km on less than perfect roads.
We also planned for a double nightstop after a maximum of 4 days riding. We found having this chill-out time facility to be most enjoyable. Not to mention a chance of sending the clothes for a good wash.


Looking at our route it became clear that we circumnavigated most of Thailand. The only area left is the area South of Bangkok along the Pattaya Coastal and the Cambodian border. With Mae Sot on the West, Mae Sai in the North, OSmach on the East and Betong as the Southernmost point, all the 4 Cardinal points of Thailand were visited. Along with three of its highest points; Doi Inthanon ( Thailand's highest peak ) , Doi AngKhang & Phu Chi Fa ( in the East ).
We all agreed that there is no better way to do this.


Apart from a submarine and a cruise ship we have used all manner of transport known to man, from hot air balloons to bicycles rented in Vang Vieng.


We have planned and targeted several key points that needs to be visited, i.e. the Death Railway, the 1,000 Corner Road, Doi Inthinon, Angkor and many more not mentioned here. Happily we managed to visit these places. However we missed out on Preah Vihear as the gates were closed on that particular day.


I was lucky to be leading this group of highly disciplined riders, but with none overly so, everyone maintaining a good balance between casual and regimented behaviour. Hence, no one was late, no one rode too fast nor too slow, no one was calculative and everyone gave each other sufficient space while maintaining the right amount of Biker Brotherhood. This journey of discovery is a good one for everyone.


We had one major disappointment when we were turned away from the Lao border, and we lost money on the pre paid hotels booked in Laos. We also lost a few days at Pak Being and Luang Prabang due to this very reason. This however was 'compensated' when we finally got into Laos escorted by our very own Ambasador.


My most memorable moment of this trip was when Sam texted me to tell me that he is safely home from Hatyai, last week. He was the last guy to collect his bike from storage in Southern Thailand, and with his return, everyone who took part is back safely. i will never forget the feeling of relief as at that moment i realized we all returned safely, man and machine.


Thailand, truly amazing, and there is so much more to discover even after completing this trip. Laos has its charm, and in its current natural state, a Gem in the Asean tourist scene. Cambodia is truly mystifying, and we will be back here too.

[size=12pt]The statistics of this ride is quite staggering; [/size]

Distance Covered : 175,000km
Total Number of participants : 38
Nik Huzlan/Gerry, Kamarul/Rozita, Sam/Shija, Amin / Fauziah, Mel / Rohani, Bruce / Margaret , Simon / YY, Hisham / Eva, Goh / Ivy, CC Lee/ Elaine, Daniel/Crystal,
Alex, Dean, SP Lee, Sean, Eddy, Cristian, Terry, Shaharin, Asri, Achin, Azmi, Nurul, Ariv, Mujib, Ah Kiat, Julian,


Total number of bikes : 25 - 1 Yamaha, 1 Ducati, 1 Triumph, 2 KTMs and 20 BMW GS.
Total Fuel Cost: RM43,000
Total Room Cost : RM50,000
Food : RM35,000
Air Fare : RM11,500
Miscellaneous : RM20,000


Total: RM159,000.


Bike Failure : Nil


Crashes & Accidents : 2 - Both Riders and bike OK, and completed journey.


Credit Roll


This started off as 'my' ride. But way before wheels roll, it became "OUR" Ride. And that's a good thing.
nothing would have run as smoothly as it did if not for valuable assistance from generally everyone, and specifically the few actively involved.


Playing a role silently was Mel Taib. He assumed total housekeeping duties, logistics and communication and sees it all through by consistent follow-up. His coordination was perfect,his handling of and reconciling payments and collection spot on.

Shaharin Wan for coordinating the Segment 2 Riders schedule and other arrangements.

YY Ching for being an efficient Daily Expense 'CFO' for Segment 1 allowing us all to just eat and leave.

Gerry for her "CFO" duties on Segment 3, and all the on-bike shots taken and used in this story.

Eddy Tan - As there are no Marshals for this convoy that on Segment 2 grew to 19 bikes, the risk of getting adrift is ever-present, and Eddy was the most dependable keeping everyone together.

Sam & Dato' Kamarul, always available and on-call as and when necessary. They waited at junctions, frequently acted as 'last bike'. They, with Eddy stayed behind at the scene of Hisham's accident until the bike was recovered, made friends with the villagers while the rest of us were checking in at the hotel 25km away.

Finally, A Big Thank You to Phil. Every promise delivered and more.

Suffice to say, ADVLux Redux will be announced by mid year.


The Amazing Team.

Video Segment 1 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cp6orDDXhi8
Video Segment 2 Pt 1 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axCr0-kcZi0
Video Segment 2 Pt 2 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTEkTKj53wk
Video Segment 2 Pt 3 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6yxZLW3-GY


Video Khuean Yuam : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4wl5Qzhxz0
Video MHS - Pai : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgFW9JccIg

 

[Ally]

Thank you so much for sharing this report Nik, I am now going to start again from Day 1 & read it again !!

Ally

 

[nikhuzlan]

Thanks Ally. Both Phil and you played a role in our journey.

Videos will follow soon.

 

[yychow0812]

Fantastic stuff bro. For future rides, will you consider inviting local riders to join up as and when possible?

p/s: still waiting for that "picture" taken at Angkor Wat in the still of the night...............

 

[KTMphil]

What a report.


Nik, thanks so much for taking the time to put this amazing story together with, I can only imagine how many hours (days) it's taken to do. It's really appreciated.


Now i'm going to read it all again.

 

[nikhuzlan]

What a report.


Nik, thanks so much for taking the time to put this amazing story together with, I can only imagine how many hours (days) it's taken to do. It's really appreciated.


Now i'm going to read it all again.

Thanks Phil. Every promise you made delivered and more .

 

[Just Bob]

What a great trip! What a great bunch of folks! What a great write-up!

Thanks Nik.