KTMphil
Senior member
Finding those temples must have been an amazing feeling.
Loation dreams..
- Thread starter Steve Canyon
- Start date
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
Midnitemapper said:Great story Steve, That was great fun riding and exploring,
This season I hope to find one more on the Laos side of the border, hope you will be around.
Yes It was good fun Don, didn't enjoy the sand to much and the heat was unreal.., I'll be back for more in November :RO
I am still amazed at the change in heart at the village, 2 years prior I rocked up there spent the night outside! The next day the cops told me to get on my horse and go back to were you came from!
Of course I didn't, that was my first attempt at finding those temples from the Laos side, in prior years I searched along the ancient Kymer highways on the Cambodian side. Great fun, hot and sweaty work!
I Didn't think they where very friendly at first, but that changed....I think they must have liked us Don :RO
KTMphil said:
I felt like a tomb raider Phil, and after all the poking around looking for it the feeling was amazing, not so many people get to see these things, the villages didn't want to tell us where the other temple was, think they like to keep the tourist's away... :RO
Thanks guys....
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
After a cold night and not much sleep we are woken by the PA playing Laos music, it's 5.30am and it's time to get up. We are told to go to the little cafe and get some coffee...I need this and after about 3 cups of it Dons chomping at the bit to get going, me I want to sleep more.
We say good by to the Boss (Benson)
And we are off, heading south, (Dark red route after the green)
We ride along here for about 10ks then hit a village check point where we are stopped, a young man tells us that he is our guide and we should follow him, seems Benson made a few calls, this would knock hours of the journey, now I'm awake and getting excited again...
We turn of the main road and into the tree desert! The sand is deep...
We arrive a huge clump of trees and it's time to go on foot.
Then it's of into the trees..
Is that it?
After about 15 mins of going through really thick jungle.
We find the outer wall
Our guide had done a good job, he didn't need gps
The Temple
Don get's to work straight away; I'm just blown away and wander round taking as many pictures as I can.
I really wanted a souvenir but thought the gods may curse me if I take some thing from such a special place, the body laying over the wall told the story of the last tomb raider who was here..:funmeteryes:
Looks like he nearly made it over the wall before the gods struck him down
ops2:
Don at work
A fantastic morning, Don wants to go have a look at another trail, I'm not liking the sand so I head back to the checkpoint to make some new friends..... :RO
We say good by to the Boss (Benson)
And we are off, heading south, (Dark red route after the green)
We ride along here for about 10ks then hit a village check point where we are stopped, a young man tells us that he is our guide and we should follow him, seems Benson made a few calls, this would knock hours of the journey, now I'm awake and getting excited again...
We turn of the main road and into the tree desert! The sand is deep...
We arrive a huge clump of trees and it's time to go on foot.
Then it's of into the trees..
Is that it?
After about 15 mins of going through really thick jungle.
We find the outer wall
Our guide had done a good job, he didn't need gps
The Temple
Don get's to work straight away; I'm just blown away and wander round taking as many pictures as I can.
I really wanted a souvenir but thought the gods may curse me if I take some thing from such a special place, the body laying over the wall told the story of the last tomb raider who was here..:funmeteryes:
Looks like he nearly made it over the wall before the gods struck him down
ops2:Don at work
A fantastic morning, Don wants to go have a look at another trail, I'm not liking the sand so I head back to the checkpoint to make some new friends..... :RO
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
Once I got back to the checkpoint there was a little shop so time to refill with fluids, already I have drunk 4 litres up to this point and it's not even midday. I talked to the lady in the shop in my simple Thai and we had a little chat, she was Beautiful but would not look at the camera.
She was a little shy, perhaps she thought I was trying to chat her up, which of course I was 5555, she was not married and the child was not hers, surely I'm in
Think she's thinking about it.
A few more people turn up to see the Falang :LOL
I buy the Children some sweets and everybody has a drink, we having a party now!
Now I go mad with the camera, this young lady was very curios
This one a little shy
I think the whole village is coming
I love this one
Then Don turns up and a few more people turn up
Beautiful child
Then the captain turned up
We stayed a bit longer but we needed to move on, we where going to head for the Border of Thailand to check out a trading route...
This didn't go so well for me I ended up with heatstroke in the middle of no where, I ended up in a village shop badly overheating, the kind lady took me around the side to lay in the shade.
I was feeling really weird, my arms had packed up working my heart was pumping hard I was worried, Don wasn't he left me there to die 55555(I'm Joking).
It was quiet surreal laying there listening to Don ride of into the distance, there were chickens and pigs running around but no other noise...I think I fell asleep for about 20 mins, I had cooled down and was feeling fine, it was 40 in the shade.
I had reached my limit that day...
But it’s not over... :RO
She was a little shy, perhaps she thought I was trying to chat her up, which of course I was 5555, she was not married and the child was not hers, surely I'm in
Think she's thinking about it.
A few more people turn up to see the Falang :LOL
I buy the Children some sweets and everybody has a drink, we having a party now!
Now I go mad with the camera, this young lady was very curios
This one a little shy
I think the whole village is coming
I love this one
Then Don turns up and a few more people turn up
Beautiful child
Then the captain turned up
We stayed a bit longer but we needed to move on, we where going to head for the Border of Thailand to check out a trading route...
This didn't go so well for me I ended up with heatstroke in the middle of no where, I ended up in a village shop badly overheating, the kind lady took me around the side to lay in the shade.
I was feeling really weird, my arms had packed up working my heart was pumping hard I was worried, Don wasn't he left me there to die 55555(I'm Joking).
It was quiet surreal laying there listening to Don ride of into the distance, there were chickens and pigs running around but no other noise...I think I fell asleep for about 20 mins, I had cooled down and was feeling fine, it was 40 in the shade.
I had reached my limit that day...
But it’s not over... :RO
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
Don wanted to have a poke around on the way back so I headed back to the crossing and waited for him, nice smooth road and no sand.
After about 15 mins Don turned up and we crossed the river.
Ferry was not working so it was a small boat.
I'm on now it's Don's turn
All aboard lets go.
It's so damn hot, check out the new sunglasses 3rd pair this trip
We landed the other side and set of for Pakse, Don was poking around so I took 15 mins to cool down.
The heat is really getting to me, I just can’t seem to cool down, the animals seemed to have the right idea!
I had a chat with some locals, they think we are mad.
Don arrives and we head of, on the way we go look at a UNESCO site, another temple ruin Wat Umo
Not much of it left, lots of History mind you
Dons mapping everything.
Me, I'm to hot and feeling a bit weird again. I'm on my last legs :funmeterno:
I wander of into the shade towards to river.
it's not long before I'm smiling again, some locals are down there fishing having a ball :funmeteryes:
Cheers me up
On this note we decide to leave, Dons gives me a waypoint in town and I'm gone as fast as I can get some breeze. Once in Pakse I cant believe how badly they all drive, people just pull out without even looking, damn right scary, the junctions where just a big free for all.
Safely back in the Hotel and get cleaned up and cooled of that's it for me. I have been pushing myself to the limit, I was ready to throw in the towel after the HM trail, my hand is still really sore after a couple more off’s in the sand, I'm limping, my heads cut and I'm finished.
Myself and Don went and had some nice food and a bottle of red, it had been a real eye look into a mappers world I had enjoyed and made a new friend in Don, he's great company and a trail riding king, he wasn't even sweating.
Don agreed I had earned my Bronze trail-riding badge, which means a lot to me, is it in the post Don?
Sleep.... :RO
After about 15 mins Don turned up and we crossed the river.
Ferry was not working so it was a small boat.
I'm on now it's Don's turn
All aboard lets go.
It's so damn hot, check out the new sunglasses 3rd pair this trip
We landed the other side and set of for Pakse, Don was poking around so I took 15 mins to cool down.
The heat is really getting to me, I just can’t seem to cool down, the animals seemed to have the right idea!
I had a chat with some locals, they think we are mad.
Don arrives and we head of, on the way we go look at a UNESCO site, another temple ruin Wat Umo
Not much of it left, lots of History mind you
Dons mapping everything.
Me, I'm to hot and feeling a bit weird again. I'm on my last legs :funmeterno:
I wander of into the shade towards to river.
it's not long before I'm smiling again, some locals are down there fishing having a ball :funmeteryes:
Cheers me up
On this note we decide to leave, Dons gives me a waypoint in town and I'm gone as fast as I can get some breeze. Once in Pakse I cant believe how badly they all drive, people just pull out without even looking, damn right scary, the junctions where just a big free for all.
Safely back in the Hotel and get cleaned up and cooled of that's it for me. I have been pushing myself to the limit, I was ready to throw in the towel after the HM trail, my hand is still really sore after a couple more off’s in the sand, I'm limping, my heads cut and I'm finished.
Myself and Don went and had some nice food and a bottle of red, it had been a real eye look into a mappers world I had enjoyed and made a new friend in Don, he's great company and a trail riding king, he wasn't even sweating.
Don agreed I had earned my Bronze trail-riding badge, which means a lot to me, is it in the post Don?
Sleep.... :RO
Midnitemapper
Senior Member
Steve, Yes that was some fantastic fun exploring, Of course that was special excitement for me, as the first time I tried to find those temples was many years ago, 1994-5 to be exact.
Things weren't so friendly in those days as there was plenty of VT loggers and the Army did not want any strangers wandering around!
Great fun riding there with you Steve, lets do it again this year.
Temple road,
Attractive "Sow" of Ban Por
Things weren't so friendly in those days as there was plenty of VT loggers and the Army did not want any strangers wandering around!
Great fun riding there with you Steve, lets do it again this year.
Temple road,
Attractive "Sow" of Ban Por
KTMphil
Senior member
This photo captures the timeless village exploring through Laos, great picture!
2wheels
Community Manager
Superb!
Thank you both.
Thank you both.
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
Thanks for the comments gentlmen...
Last part I promise
It's another early start, Dons heading of on his own today and I'm calling it a day my poor old body has had enough and I really have punished my damaged hand to far. After some breakfast Don heads of and I'm left there thinking about the last couple of weeks, it's been amazing but has certainly taken it's toll on me, my thumb although getting X rays in Thailand is still giving me problems and my big toe nail has just fell of, I'm reminded of this trip everyday of the week.
After a breakfast and a shower I'm feeling much better I still have another 10 days in Asia should I head to Thailand and grab some R&R? Or stay in Laos. I start looking through my waypoints in my trustee GPS, jeez there is so much I haven't seen yet.
Damn it's only 8.30 am I'm feeling great big change of plan I'm going to ride another day, I just don't know when to stop
I decide a quick hop down to Attapue to see the Sam missiles, stay there overnight and see what happens in the morning....
It's a beautiful morning in Pakse and this looks like an easy day with lots of tarmac, how wrong I wasops2:
Here is the route in black
Suns shining
I head south for a about 50k's then it's a quick left onto the 18a, it's not long before I've encounter the worst road I've ever ridden, broken tarmac, thick dust and great big craters, the dust is like fog and there is a lot of traffic.
A little further up the traffic clears and the forest starts as does the water crossings.
Not much to worry about here I've had 2 weeks training on the Hochi Minh trail, it starts to get more remote but I'm still up beat. Lots of little villages but I'm not stopping today I want to get to my destination quickly and have a relaxing evening with a few beers, it's at this point that the day changes.
This is deep fast and super slippery and the ferryboat is not there.
I walked it and decided it was to much, the rocks where like ice the water up to my jewels in places with a really strong current I could not do this on my own, one slip and I'm in real trouble. Contemplating my future a guy comes over and says he will show me the way, so I watch him walk it and remember his route, that's him in the middle, my turn
I ask a couple of kids to walk either side at the back and help the guide was upfront showing me the way, in we go and its got a few things puckering up.
:helpsmilie:
I made it, gave the kids a few kip, the guide would take no money so I pressed on
Onwards up the trail and more water.
I have to wait until the tractors pass, the slop is so slippery I have to help them push, in return one of the guys walks back across showing me which way to go, this is one is the deepest with the water half way up the barrel, power it trough praying I make it, then it's up the slope sliding all over the place.... made it
View from the other side
Further up the trail and the mud is like poured concrete, I'm getting stuck and it's tough going, I'm covered in mud and having a ball, but it's hard
And more water
Then I get stuck big time, it's like glue, I have to lay the bike down here and plan my escape, the bike will not move....:helpsmilie:
It would take me 30 mins to wrestle the bike out, I had drunk all my water and was really hot next village I would have to re supply. It's getting harder and the fatigue is coming back, I'm thinking I should have stayed in Pakse.
I carry on and then hit a deep river, I cannot cross here and there is nobody here to help, before I even think about taking a picture I decide to turn back, I know what to expect, so the plans changed both sides of the travelling alone coin in a instance.
The first village I get to I stock up, once again the village turns out to see the Ting Tong Falang.:funmeteryes:
At was at this point I checked my phone, I had got 2 messages, 1st from Don at 9am saying 'get outta bed and ride', if only he knew, 2nd was from Sam he was still in Pakse and wondered what I was doing, he did not bother going down to Kong island with the others and had relaxed for a few days, so here we go again with a plan change....
The new plan was to go back to Pakse dump the bike and head back up to Vientiane on the overnight bus with Sam. The bike would follow me the next day on the top of the bus for $30, I didn't fancy 500ks of tarmac and the bus had beds on it, great.
I slept all the way and we arrived about 8am and headed for a Hotel, Don had phoned and said his bike had broken and that he was making the same trip up as me, he also sorted out some confusion with my bike and ensured it would be with me soon.
Not much damage considering I fell on this side at least 15 times. Brilliant bike no problems not even a puncture in 2487 K'ms, other than check the oil daily and kick the tyres I did nothing to the bike. Great service from remote Asia (Jim), whose bikes are maintained by Fuark to high standards.
So that's it for me on the bike, time to stop and fix my broken body, it's been the hardest thing I have ever done, travelling alone on the first bit was awesome it really challenged me and being honest I don't really remember so much about it other than it was very remote and some times scary, I tried to enjoy those moments rather than panic.
Back in Vientiane the troops where reassembling, all the other Aussies where headed back as well as Don, time for some fun without bikes.
Sam and I headed for the war Museums.
The inside was closed? So I wandered round the back.
Lots to see
We met up with all the other guys and hung out for a few days until we all shipped out, I went to Thailand to visit the folks then onto Chaing Mia and finally a beach in Hau Hin.
What a trip, made some good friends scared the poo out myself and a whole new world was opened up to me, Laos is a stunning place with such friendly people, a forgotten place in many ways that has played such a big part in our western life's today, yet most people have never heard of the place.
Craig and I where left gobsmacked about Laos, so much so that we wanted to go back, so we are quitting the Jobs and heading out to Laos in November for 6 months to try and aid some good causes, more details on the website.
I can bang on forever about Laos but I have to wind this story up so another can unfold, thanks for all the comments and views I will be sure to use RA once we get back on the trails.
Riding Laos for good causes
Ps: Ur all welcome to come ride with us! :RO
Last part I promise
It's another early start, Dons heading of on his own today and I'm calling it a day my poor old body has had enough and I really have punished my damaged hand to far. After some breakfast Don heads of and I'm left there thinking about the last couple of weeks, it's been amazing but has certainly taken it's toll on me, my thumb although getting X rays in Thailand is still giving me problems and my big toe nail has just fell of, I'm reminded of this trip everyday of the week.
After a breakfast and a shower I'm feeling much better I still have another 10 days in Asia should I head to Thailand and grab some R&R? Or stay in Laos. I start looking through my waypoints in my trustee GPS, jeez there is so much I haven't seen yet.
Damn it's only 8.30 am I'm feeling great big change of plan I'm going to ride another day, I just don't know when to stop
I decide a quick hop down to Attapue to see the Sam missiles, stay there overnight and see what happens in the morning....
It's a beautiful morning in Pakse and this looks like an easy day with lots of tarmac, how wrong I was
ops2:Here is the route in black
Suns shining
I head south for a about 50k's then it's a quick left onto the 18a, it's not long before I've encounter the worst road I've ever ridden, broken tarmac, thick dust and great big craters, the dust is like fog and there is a lot of traffic.
A little further up the traffic clears and the forest starts as does the water crossings.
Not much to worry about here I've had 2 weeks training on the Hochi Minh trail, it starts to get more remote but I'm still up beat. Lots of little villages but I'm not stopping today I want to get to my destination quickly and have a relaxing evening with a few beers, it's at this point that the day changes.
This is deep fast and super slippery and the ferryboat is not there.
I walked it and decided it was to much, the rocks where like ice the water up to my jewels in places with a really strong current I could not do this on my own, one slip and I'm in real trouble. Contemplating my future a guy comes over and says he will show me the way, so I watch him walk it and remember his route, that's him in the middle, my turn
I ask a couple of kids to walk either side at the back and help the guide was upfront showing me the way, in we go and its got a few things puckering up.
:helpsmilie:
I made it, gave the kids a few kip, the guide would take no money so I pressed on
Onwards up the trail and more water.
I have to wait until the tractors pass, the slop is so slippery I have to help them push, in return one of the guys walks back across showing me which way to go, this is one is the deepest with the water half way up the barrel, power it trough praying I make it, then it's up the slope sliding all over the place.... made it
View from the other side
Further up the trail and the mud is like poured concrete, I'm getting stuck and it's tough going, I'm covered in mud and having a ball, but it's hard
And more water
Then I get stuck big time, it's like glue, I have to lay the bike down here and plan my escape, the bike will not move....:helpsmilie:
It would take me 30 mins to wrestle the bike out, I had drunk all my water and was really hot next village I would have to re supply. It's getting harder and the fatigue is coming back, I'm thinking I should have stayed in Pakse.
I carry on and then hit a deep river, I cannot cross here and there is nobody here to help, before I even think about taking a picture I decide to turn back, I know what to expect, so the plans changed both sides of the travelling alone coin in a instance.
The first village I get to I stock up, once again the village turns out to see the Ting Tong Falang.:funmeteryes:
At was at this point I checked my phone, I had got 2 messages, 1st from Don at 9am saying 'get outta bed and ride', if only he knew, 2nd was from Sam he was still in Pakse and wondered what I was doing, he did not bother going down to Kong island with the others and had relaxed for a few days, so here we go again with a plan change....
The new plan was to go back to Pakse dump the bike and head back up to Vientiane on the overnight bus with Sam. The bike would follow me the next day on the top of the bus for $30, I didn't fancy 500ks of tarmac and the bus had beds on it, great.
I slept all the way and we arrived about 8am and headed for a Hotel, Don had phoned and said his bike had broken and that he was making the same trip up as me, he also sorted out some confusion with my bike and ensured it would be with me soon.
Not much damage considering I fell on this side at least 15 times. Brilliant bike no problems not even a puncture in 2487 K'ms, other than check the oil daily and kick the tyres I did nothing to the bike. Great service from remote Asia (Jim), whose bikes are maintained by Fuark to high standards.
So that's it for me on the bike, time to stop and fix my broken body, it's been the hardest thing I have ever done, travelling alone on the first bit was awesome it really challenged me and being honest I don't really remember so much about it other than it was very remote and some times scary, I tried to enjoy those moments rather than panic.
Back in Vientiane the troops where reassembling, all the other Aussies where headed back as well as Don, time for some fun without bikes.
Sam and I headed for the war Museums.
The inside was closed? So I wandered round the back.
Lots to see
We met up with all the other guys and hung out for a few days until we all shipped out, I went to Thailand to visit the folks then onto Chaing Mia and finally a beach in Hau Hin.
What a trip, made some good friends scared the poo out myself and a whole new world was opened up to me, Laos is a stunning place with such friendly people, a forgotten place in many ways that has played such a big part in our western life's today, yet most people have never heard of the place.
Craig and I where left gobsmacked about Laos, so much so that we wanted to go back, so we are quitting the Jobs and heading out to Laos in November for 6 months to try and aid some good causes, more details on the website.
I can bang on forever about Laos but I have to wind this story up so another can unfold, thanks for all the comments and views I will be sure to use RA once we get back on the trails.
Riding Laos for good causes
Ps: Ur all welcome to come ride with us! :RO
2wheels
Community Manager
Very nice Steve.
I have a feeling we will meet up in Laos during November.
I have a feeling we will meet up in Laos during November.
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
2wheels said:Very nice Steve.
I have a feeling we will meet up in Laos during November.
Thanks 2W, I arrive in Thailand on the 4th November, Chumpae will be our Thia residents for the Southern part of the trip, hope to be in Laos ASAP and Laboy is to be our first destination, be great to hook up and ride some trails.... :RO
That's a cunning way to keep your report up the top of the list, just take 6 months to finish it. I might try that next time.
Good to see it all now, looks like the south may be a destination to head to one day. People say flat lands are boring but it doesn't look like it.
Good to see it all now, looks like the south may be a destination to head to one day. People say flat lands are boring but it doesn't look like it.
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
Didn't know there was any time limits set on posts here at RA.
I'll keep it short and sweet from now on Pounce...
I'll keep it short and sweet from now on Pounce...
Lone Rider
Blokes Who Can
Enjoyed the trip report very much - must have been a great trip solo as well as with MM. By the way, Rd 18 where you failed to reach Attapeu, will be upgraded and in 3 year time should be paved with bridges so, if you want to conquer it, you should not wait too long.
KTMphil
Senior member
Great info a photo's here Chris, really enjoying it.
Just Bob
Senior Member
Chris - Thank you (and Midnight Mapper) for the fantastic trip report and pics. High point of my day reading this! Rock on...
Changnoi1
Senior Member
Nice report, great photos ..... what kind of maps are you using? Old fashion map and GPS?
This as I am planning a trip from Central Laos to south Laos, on a heavy Versys so I need a bit kind of road at least (no jungle trails)
I am planning to take my time and make side-trips and at the end cross border to Cambodia.
Chang Noi
This as I am planning a trip from Central Laos to south Laos, on a heavy Versys so I need a bit kind of road at least (no jungle trails)
I am planning to take my time and make side-trips and at the end cross border to Cambodia.
Chang Noi
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
Thanks Bob, it was a whole lot of fun, glad you enjoyed it....:RO
Chang Noi, I was using Gps, the map is made by our very own Midnite mapper, it's like having a guide on you handlebars......Laos GPS Map - Driven by Adventure - Highly detailed GPS Maps of Laos
Cant wait to get back there...
Changnoi1
Senior Member
That map is only for Garmin right? I am using an Iphone (in a waterproof and rugged case) .... Kaart Data LLC is making a Laos map.
Actually considering to buy an Garmin Zumo or Nuvi40 (huge price difference).
Chang Noi
Actually considering to buy an Garmin Zumo or Nuvi40 (huge price difference).
Chang Noi
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
Right it's for Garmin...
Buy a Garmin dude..the map is a must, the detail is immense right down to fuel drums in the middle of no where..
Phil sells them at riders corner and midnite mapper sells gps's
Rideasia...your one stop shop
Happy trails
The guys with the thumbs up bought the map :RO
Ally
Well-known member
Am I missing something here ?
Steve Canyon
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2011
- Bikes
- SMT990
? Missing what?
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