Chiang Mai, Thailand to Vladivostok, Russia

Rob & Jack get some real hydraulic oil and flush and bleed Jack's hydraulic clutch


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Since this has been done its been working perfectly


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Jack now enjoying a bike with a clutch through the twisties north to Danbar


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& into Danbar with its unusual houses with towers


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The story goes, that damsels would be in the towers and the men had to climb up the towers and knock to see if they were "available"


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WE're staying in a traditional village out of town, now to find it



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Getting there, found the village


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To the GH, wowzy the mountain girls are strong


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This weighs 80kg, she carried it down steps 100 meters


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One of the coolest places we've stayed so far


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Family run place I think this was the girls mother


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Dad

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Just enough time before dark for a quick look around the village


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The whole family sleeps together in one big bedroom


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Kitchen

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Getting the feed ready for the livestock


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& a toilet with a shoot


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You see this Buddhist pattern quite often'


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Probably watch towers from conflict days

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Great photos Phil, thanks for sharing

Wayne


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while having a cold beer
 
I am really enjoying your posts and photos Phil 'but Dam it looks cold !
 
Dinner was traditional with barley bread of course and some wicked moonshine that they say drives you crazy
'

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Some of their traditional dress photos





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Danbar was a very special stop-over, one you never forget. Next morning the usual rising moisture from being at 3,000 meters


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More houses with towers on the way out


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Jack's clutch is still working like new


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Looks like its drying out


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Doing our best not to lose people through the cities with traffic lights


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The a gorgeous river valley road north


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At last, after 8 days a break in the clouds, the first time we've seen blue sky the whole trip!!



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More of the corkscrew mountain links


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Beautiful stone bridges


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Nasty nasty dark tunnel with a sealed concrete road. It looked wet from the seal and made you feel very uneasy. The top looked like it was out of a horror amusement arcade


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This cow was not going to move


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Imagine how that was cut away?

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North of Danbar still a very Tibetan feel to the area


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More of the ancient towers


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Typical Chinese lunch in China - nothging at all like western Chinese food


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Im not sure if this baby had ever seen western people with noses before


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Jack with some lovely ladies from Chengdu, showing them where we're headed


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Local furniture for sale - very colourful


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This Chinese 21" front tire has the wrong profile, the chicken strips will never be removed


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..
 
Every day so far we've had bike drama, it was afternoon already and none so far. Thought too soon of course, a drive chain came flying out the back of one of our bikes


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Luckily it was only the split link that had failed, we had a spare


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20 minutes and back on the road again


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...
 
Fuel stop - these are Snickers bars in Chinese, they've been a favorite with the riders


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NW of Chengdu, & we've now worked our way out of the edge of the Himalayan Mountains and the topography is changing immediately - Yaks grazing on the plains


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Bike drama isnt done for the day, Albert gets a rear flat, we think its a nail but turns out to be a bent cast rim and he's lost the seal


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The CB 500 X's have a 17" rear, the easiest thing was to put a tube in it


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From Danbar to Hongyan, it was a 377KM day with 2x bike drama's, lucky to get there in daylight


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Very strange ground floor in this hotel


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'

Very tired we all slept well, it was freezing though - 10 centigrade when we went to sleep


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Hongyang to Labrang - 390 km


We woke up in Honyang and it was freezing - literally! ... It was probably still below zero centigrade as the sun came up, frost still all over Don's seat


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WE all put on some more layers and headed out into the rising fog with the sun a blazing


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100km north of Hongyan a cool monastery


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Then to go take a look at the "first bend" of the Yellow River - The 3rd longest river in Asia


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_River



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The viewpoint must have been 2,000 steps


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A temple on the way there


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Chinese boy that had never seen a KTM before


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We had been told that the road north to Labrang was under construction, there was a dirt road that would save us 80km, we took a look on the map to see if it would be possible with the CB 500 X's


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Talking to the locals, it didnt sound like a good idea so we went the dusty potholed main road way


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A black Nomad yak farmers tent on the right


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Cute chalet GH's


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Flashy new monster Lexus in the gas station


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A Chinese guy touring on a Shineray 400 (XR 400 copy) was delighted to see us


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Off north to Labrang and a thunderstorm brewing

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Some intrigued locals


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Looks like we're going to catch the edge of this thing


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Initially, it looked like this huge truck had side swiped 3x cars and taken them off the road with it. After going passed it looked more like a car transporter that had rolled


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Changing landscape and colours, we've definately entered a new region


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First time we've seen goats like this


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Yaks


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The hills and mountains have much different shapes to them now


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The area is littered with unusual places of worship


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NW China, something that would become a huge pain in the ass as we progressed north - petrol filling from kettles. Many gas stations in China consider motorcycles to be dangerous and are forbidden to use the petrol pumps, they have to use these 7 liter kettles/ jugs



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This was the first day with no bike drama, into Labrang safely


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Some photo's of the Monastery, I hope they portray how special this place is


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Two steps prayers, two steps prayers


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The Monks gather in the main hall at 0600am & 11am, a horn blows as their prayers are about to start


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The Monks all remove their Yak skin boots, how they find the right pair again is a mystery, they were all the same


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Its hard to explain why, but the ancient authenticity of their ceremony is an unbelievably moving experience, you feel like you been time warped back 400 years


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Truly magical experience


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..
 
Nigel, the resident goat in Labrang



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Female construction workers, quite common in China


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Labrang - not ruined by foreign tourists yet


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Yak skin boots


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Labrang toilet


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..
 
A couple more Labrang photo's from the phone camera


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Every motorbike uses a blanket over its seat here in Labrang


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Changing face of Buddhism


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Early morning exercise in matching tracksuits in Labrang


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Immediately we get north of Labrang the religion changes from Buddhism to Muslim'



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Mosques everywhere now

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When I first started riding in China, the new rich Chinese all drove black Audi A8's. The new weapon for the affluent is the Porsche Cayanne, they are everywhere. Letting a Chinese driver loose in a Porsche is a scary thought. Here even used as a wedding car



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Goats being butchered in one of the Muslim towns


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The whole trip so far, we've only seen one gas station carrying premium brand oil that we recognize


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More Muslim construction



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NW China is a huge pain in the ass for motorcycles. The reason being that you're not allowed to use the gas pumps, they have a 50 year old mentality that motorcycles are dangerous and therefore have to fill from kettles 20 meters away from the gas pumps




Gorgeous Glenda filling up .... Fill up full in Chinese is "Jah-Mah".

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Muslim chaps checking out the bikes'

'

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Stopping for a cigarette break and the overloaded tourers catch us up


The Chinese BMW copy

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This one has a leaky fuel cap ... a home made gasket!

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..
 
Good one Phil

Are you guys coming back same road you went there or are you using TUMANGANG-Khasan A 189 Road?
 
Doing everything we can not to lose riders in Lanzhou, finding them again in the spaghetti of one ways would be horrendous


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Cold noodles for lunch a Lanzhou local speciality


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WE hadn't had any bike drama in a while, Jack gets a huge hole in his rear tire, looks like it was a big nail


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Be careful with your fancy Motion Pro wrench/ tire lever combo, we snapped mine without much load

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The stock KTM toolkit with extension handle undid the wheel nut just fine


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WE whisked it off to town to get a new tube in. Getting those 18" rear tires off isnt fun. Luckily not raining, while we wait


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Tire change cost us about an hour, we still made Baiyan in daylight, The Joyce Hotel in Baiyan was one of the best value we've stayed in


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Baiyan to Yinchuan



We can feel the drastic change in the climate now. All the humidity has disappeared, bright blue skies and Gobi Desert-like landscape (once out of the city)


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Just out of the city & we're in what will become the Gobi Desert further north. Nothing really grows here, winters will be brutal, you can understand why its uninhabited except for nomad animal herders


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A bit further north and it looks like they're trying to harvest something green


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Then back to nothingness


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Muslim Mosques pop into the sky in every village we pass through


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In for a fill up and 8 Police officers want to know where we're going and why we're here.



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This is probably the first time they've seen a large group of foreign big bikes on the highway, they cant read the Thai number plates, its all very confusing for them



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We show them our Chinese temporary driving licenses and Chinese temporary registrations for the bikes and that calms them down some what


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We can go


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They seem to be getting stricter with the filling of the bikes, further south we could sweet talk them, here they point to the side and there's no negotiation, jugs it is.


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80km up the highway, we realize we've lost Albert, 2 hours later we've got him back, thanks to email



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400 km from Baiyan to Yinchuan, we;ve been averaging around 90km/hr with fuel stops cruising at 120 km/hr, all going good


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Nearly to Yinchuan, now seeing goats and sheep being the main livestock transported around


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Doesnt look like its going to be a good couple of days for these guys


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New city, new smells, new cuisine, all the news make it very interesting


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The Gongda Hotel for the night, right in the center of town


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The red sign next to the hotel had a few of the male rider's intrigued, turned out to be a gynecologists office - why a sign like that???


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Looks like you guys had fun in China and everyone is safe. It is an adventure alone by riding a motorcycle in China. Enjoy the rest of your trip with the rubber side down.:giving:
 
Looks like you guys had fun in China and everyone is safe. It is an adventure alone by riding a motorcycle in China. Enjoy the rest of your trip with the rubber side down.:giving:



Thanks Frankie - Szechuan was much more special than I expected, will go back for sure
 
We now roughly on the same latitude (as far north as) Beijing but a lot further west. The Great Wall of China stretches all the way west to where we are and we've got a good chance of finding some remains of the wall not too far away


WE've got a good map and think we know where to look


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The remains of the wall should be somewhere around where the green line is on the map below


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Will we find it? .... more to come.



...
 
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