Day 26 and 27
Stayed in Oudoxmay for the day and just relaxed, had two massages as the first one didn't seem like it had done the trick. Had the same girl twice and she was very good. I felt so much better after the second one. The remainder of the day was spent drinking Beer Lao and eating food.
I also took the bike for a good wash, the second of the tour.
IMG_1495 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
Set off at about 0815 hours after filling my now replenished reserve fuel bottle which I had lost the other day.
Day 27 Oudomxay to Ban Chom Ong by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
I was travelling to Ban Chom Ong which is a homestay village. The route was very misty and I didn't know what to expect and I didn't even know where it was. I was following a map which was give to me by the tourist information people, and I decided to go the long way round which was through about 8 to 10 villages till I got to Ban Chom Ong. After getting a bit lost on the way as there were loads of tracks and in some places I was not even on a track according to the OSM mapping on my GPS, but its all part of the fun, so as and when I came across a different village I was asking the name of the village and then the way to Chom Ong.
IMG_1516 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1517 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1518 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1519 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1522 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1524 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
The first river crossing off the day, watch this guy nearly loose it at it was quite deep in the middle
IMG_1525 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
This second river I had just crossed and stopped to watch the trucks go through, it was very slippery
IMG_1526 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1529 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1531 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1532 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1535 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1539 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1540 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
I eventually got there for about 1130hrs, I was about 55 to 60 km the long way round, but I was not in any rush. Ban Chom Ong coords N20.70597 E101.78142.
Once I got there I stopped at a small shack in the middle of the village and started to ask about the homestay whist drinking a bottle of cold pop (soda).
IMG_1542 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1543 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
The girl at the shack had a book with English phrases but nothing on the homestay, then all of a sudden she ran off, must have been the aftershave I was wearing, she disappeared into the village and came back with a young man, who I later found out was 19m and married to the girl who ran the shack. He ended up hosting me and spoke reasonable English. Sorted, time to go to my hut for the night. When I got to it it was a hut on stilts and inside were some thin mattresses and some quilts in a bag. Very Very basic and I was thinking what had I let myself in for…..
IMG_1545 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
My dwelling for the night
IMG_1544 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1547 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
My host hung about whilst I unloaded the bike and got changed. Then it was back to the shack where we sat and drank cold beer Lao whilst his wife cooked some fried eggs with bits of chilli in them, we also had rice, the rice was just presented in a bamboo bowl and you just grabbed a hand full, literally. The egg was eaten with chopsticks.
Whilst we were eating a couple of the villagers came up to see who the foreigner was, one of them was a teacher (28yrs old) who spoke good English so we had quite a good natter, at about 1400hrs I said I was going for a walk and I was also going to secretly check on the bike and all my stuff because nothing was locked up, there were no locks on the doors at all, Ummmm, I was a bit dubious about leaving all the electronics laying about, but I had no choice unless I sat with it all the time. As I got up to leave thinking that this is going to be a long day as I didn't even have any comms, my host said that he was going to a farty, I later found out it was his pronunciation of party, as the villagers were celebrating something, he did tell me what but, after a few Lao whiskeys it was all a blur…….
So off we went further in to the village but closer to where I was staying, thankfully… When we got there it was packed out in the little area they were using, and I was shown to a wooden bench next to a table and sat down with all the other men. They made me feel right at home and involved me in all the days activities. The women served the men the beer and whiskey whilst the men ate, most of the food was in bowls but some of it was just on big leaves directly on the table, sticky rice, some kind of noodle thing, then a mix of pork and chicken soups with veg and other pork and chicken dishes, we all had a spoon each and the rest was just use you hands. I was quite taken aback by the way the women tended all the men, sorting the food, pouring the drinks etc. When the drink was being passed round you didn't get your own cup, the cup started at the end of the line, the woman poured the ring, beer and or whiskey and you drank it, tipping the dregs on the floor and giving the cup back to the woman who then went to the next man. Once all the men had had their food they left the table and all the women and kids sat down to eat. By this stage I was in a group of about 10 Lao men of which a couple spoke reasonable English. I bought 5 bottles of beer Lao for the group which was well appreciated. Whilst we were eating men were singing and there was another guy on a key board. to be honest they sound really good, this continued all they way through the day/evening.
When the women had eaten all the tables and benches were moved off the the side to make a dance floor…Ummm…when in Rome! I was sat drinking and smoking with the men and a village woman, probably in her early 20's took a bit of a shine to me and kept asking me to dance, and feed me alcohol, all the men and women who were there were dancing and singing and having a really good time. Then they brought out some big clay urns filled with what looked like wheat chaff and other stuff, I later found out it was rice particals, with long bamboo straws sticking in them, and the villagers took it in turns to sit and fill up the urns with water, and keep them topped up. The stuff was like a wine and the straw was passed round the group sat round the urns. Whilst it was kept filled with water, it was quite potent stuff. More sing and dancing until it started to get dark, which was around 1830hrs.
IMG_1549 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1550 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1551 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
Food, spoons and more importantly the Lao Whiskey
IMG_1552 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
The guy in the blue denim jacket spoke ok English and the guy in the red sleeved shirt on the right was Ban Chom Ong's answer to Elvis when he got going
IMG_1557 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
One of the solitary cups being filled and passed round
IMG_1560 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
The woman in the pink jacket took a bit of a shine to me and kept asking me to dance (middle of pic)
IMG_1565 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1567 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1568 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1571 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
My host
IMG_1577 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
The dreaded wine Urns
IMG_1582 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
Sat round the Urns
IMG_1564 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
IMG_1576 by
Wayne 66, on Flickr
The Urns and dancing
My host then took me back to his home where I had more food, fish cooked on an open fire and sticky rice, only hands were used for eating, I was sat with his wife, brothers, and grandmother.
Once we had eaten he took me back to my hut as I didn't have a clue where I was as it was pitch black by this time. Once at the hut he went back home and I grabbed my torch and went back to the party which was dwindling down, my female friend had gone, more rice wine was in order before I stumbled back to the hut where I went straight to sleep, alcohol induced haha.
What I thought was going to be long and boring day turn into an exceptional day/evening and I was made very welcome by all at the party. Well worth the time and very glad I decided to go.
Wayne