4 weeks solo ride to Northern Thai & Laos.

Continuation of the ride to Sop Ruak , Chiang Saen and Chiang Khong..........................


Arrived at the Golden Triangle for some prayers offering and purchase some GT and indo-china flag badges........






















Went to the House of Opium to buy the GT and Indo-china flag badges for my jeans jacket............wide range of souvenirs available.




Some view of Laos over the mighty Mekong along the route to Chiang Saen....................sorry for the poor quality of pics.





Nice road surface towards Chiang Saen.................



An observatory building perhaps................definitely not the 2014 World Cup Football promotional object.




A sheep farm along the main road........looks like a foreign breed but not sheep shearing in sight.











At the junction of Chiang Saen town......









Detour back and use alternate route to Chiang Khong via Doi Luang (R1098 & R1174) as the R1129 stretch from Chiang Saen to Chiang Khong is bad and appears to be under major road repairs.







 
Some more random pics of ride on R1098 and R1174 fro Doi Luang to Chiang Khong.........





Some water buffaloes taking a mud bath along the way....................





Arrived at Chiang Khong for lunch before crossing the bridge to Laos..................










Visited Mrs Jam at her restaurant and she has her own guest house just next to her restaurant. My last previous visit to her place for lunch was in 2008 and she still remembers me. She told me about her visit to Macau and also Boten while I had my lunch there as she is a good cook.









I bid Mrs Jam farewell after the lunch stopover and promised her that I will stay overnight on my next visit as I need to cross to Houei Sai via the Friendship bridge.


Approaching the road to the border bridge.....






Parked my bike at the Thai immigration booth and negotiate with them for my crossing.......refused by Thai side and ask to use the ferry instead despite my appeal.



My frustration of being refused by the immigration at the bridge did not deter me from riding Laos as I head towards south and attempt to cross at Nan. But the long ride and fatigue after unsuccessful in getting a decent accommodation in Chiang Kham, I continue riding towards Phayao and stay for the night.


Had a sumptuous dinner at Phayao after a long day.............
 
Stayed at the Jumai Guest House in Phayao which is a 3 room detached house for 500 baht as their main guest house is full on that day. Room is a bit small but clean and free self serve coffee with snacks in the morning. I shared the place with 3 locals in the guesthouse and they are friendly and helpful.







The neighbourhood of the guest house.......decent place and safe as well. Will definitely stay here again when in Phayao.







Their main guest house just less than 50 meters down the road and near the lake with plenty of restaurant and pubs.




Got stung by an insect yesterday while riding somewhere in Doi Luang towards Chiang Khong......advisable to wear a mask if helmet visor is not fully drawn while riding. Luckily it was not a bee or wasp otherwise it will, be nasty.



Some pics of the huge lake in the morning.........................this place is nice to stay and rejuvenate. Will definitely be in my list of places to stay for at least nights for my next visit.









Some of the guest houses and restaurant & pubs along the main road facing the lake.........





A great marketing promotional theme.......but don't drink and ride!



The local monument along the esplande............



Always good to have breakfast even though a simple meal but enjoying the GREAT view and clean morning air facing the huge lake.

 
Continuation of Phayao.....................the lake is decorated with beautiful fresh water fishes and many other unique displayed items that I ever see before.




















Just imagine that one can just jog along the beautiful lake each morning or having an evening walk................quality life.
 
Checked out of Phayao on 20 March 2014 and head towards south......to Phitsanulok for overnight.





Lunch stop at 7/11 .......a piece of fried chicken and juice will be sufficient for the day.




Some hilly stretches along the way..................................





Junction near Uttaradit on R11.......place must be abundance of local fruits.





Smooth and straight ahead....................




Back view of the ride.............



Arrived at Phitsanulok province.............








At the Indochina junction of Phitsanulok....................








Looks like going to Kunming, China is much better than going home............distance nearer.









Checked in to The Village Hotel for 500 baht......comfortable and clean room with secure bike parking. Hotel is located approx 2 km after the city center on the right while entering from Indochina junction. Ideal place to stay for the price.






 
Had a good dinner at the road side food stall ................doubled up for the lovely chicken & roast pork rice with egg and sweet gravy.




Some random pics of the town..................













Me and a fighting ****.........



An old fort in the city..............
 
21 March 2014 - 19th day of the trip.
Ride out of Phitsanulok towards Lomsak via Route 12 with Loei as the destination of the day................





Distance to Lomsak is not far...just 114km away on a hilly terrain and winding roads.............still one of the beautiful place to ride although the ongoing massive road works.








Some not too smooth road section.................but will be a fantastic road in the near future as it will be widen and resurfaced.









Some of the hilly sections......................nice landscape on the left.












Stopped for late breakfast at Khao Kho.............the popular rest area and purchase some t-shirts and stickers.










Inside the souvenir shop




Some other adjoining shops................











Met another local rider ...2 up.....................just married.



Breakfast............delicious but a bit expensive.






Continue riding towards Lomsak thereafter...........................


Met a local procession.........don't know what is their celebration but they all are definitely enjoying themselves.






Another interesting coffee stop area along the hills on R12....................



Arrived Lomsak and took the left turn on R203 to Loei .











This section of R203 to Loei is pleasant to ride as traffic is light and road is good with some nice bends............definitely worth another visit here again.












Met a local gal with her male pillion along the way....playing his guitar while riding pillion. The young lady sportingly responded to my pics.....too bad quality of pic not good.




Junction towards Loei near Dansai....................





Heading towards Phu Ruea on R203..............a beautiful place and seems to have many flower orchards and a national park.












Behind a huge road monster......................



Approaching Loei.................




 
Checked in a Phutawan Hotel for 350 baht with free self serve coffee in the morning and room is spacious and clean with fan and air-cond.







Location of the hotel is good with plenty of food just within walking distance and petrol station and Amazon coffee & 7/11 next to it.



Had a soup noodle dinner at the food stall nearby and followed up with a plate of chicken rice at another shop.


 
21 March 2014.................checked out of Loei and ride towards Udo Than via R210 and thereafter R2 to Nong Khai.


Breakfast with 2 pieces of meat bunds from 7/11 and hotel's f.o.c. coffee before riding out.





Loaded up and ready to roll..............



















Some hilly sections of R210...................







Arrived at Nong Khai at noon and have my lunch before crossing to Laos via Friendship bridge.















Heading towards the bridge after lunch and sky is getting cloudy.........seems to rain soon.



At the Thai immigration booth...........no hassle but to pay 200 baht for passport and bike without any receipt..........no wonder the officers there smiles when I approach their booth.



Riding across the friendship bridge at the Thai side...........................





Looks as if she is going to jump over............!!!!!!!!




Over the great Mekong...................

 
22 March 2014- Day 20th of the trip.


The Laos immigration is swift and not much hassle but the customs officer only allows the bike for 14 days in Laos whereas my passport entry is for 30 days and so is my Laos motor insurance. I tried to appeal to the customs officer and explained about the extension of the bike entry from 14 days to 30 days as I need to travel up north and thereafter heading south to Cambodia. Unfortunately he refused to accede to my request and claims that foreign motorcycle is only allow for 14 days in Laos. I am skeptical about the reason that the customs officer gave me but nevertheless I will need to adjust the plan in Laos accordingly.


Crossing to Laos section on the friendship bridge from Nongkhai.......................



Me grinning as I am in Laos finally.........




but still keep myself to remember riding at the right side in Laos.



First drop of rain since the begining of my trip on 3 March 2014.........happens to be in Laos.



Riding towards Vientiane capita......not far from the border.




Not much of a problem in getting to my buddy's office in Vientiane.

 
I stayed in Vientiane for 2 nights only as my bike entry is only for 14 days.....................


Sunday morning, we went to have breakfast and thereafter joined the fellow Malaysians for coffee and some snacks.



Most of the guys have been in Vientiane for few years except one of them just posted here from Saigon...............







Stayed in my buddy's placed which is a service apartment with secured parking.





Loaded up on Monday (24 March 2014) morning to ride out towards Vang Vieng.



Checking out.....passed apartment keys to my buddy at his office before heading out to Vang Vieng.



Traffic is not light as I expected in the morning in Vientiane....................





Since the weather looks cloudy in the morning, I decided to have a good breakfast at Le Benneton..............popular for their nice breads and croissants





Heading out of the capital on R13.........





Traffic eases as I am out of the capital....................nice ride.









Some pics of the rural area along the route to Vang Vieng.............












The reason for the poor quality of pics.........my hand may not be steady and camera is slow on responding.





Approaching to Vang Vieng........................





Checked in at Grand View Guesthouse for USD13.00 fan room with nice bed and bathroom. Coffee is free in the morning and the air cond room with river view is USD20.00.







The town is full of guesthouses and beer joints and mostly tourist doing the water tubing and having cheap beers.













Had a huge sandwich for late lunch and a pineapple juice.......restaurant have a nice view of the river and mountains.







After the meal..........exhausted it was huge.




Fried rice and morning glory for dinner..................USD6.00 too expensive...............taste just normal nothing better than Thailand.

 
25 March 2014 morning.
Breakfast at guesthouse....f.o.c instant coffee...2 sachets...self service and bought a sandwich from stall in front for USD3.00 which is also expensive as it is not from BURGER KING but road side stall.Everthing USD or KIP...tens of thousand. Ate all and no lunch as need to ride to Luang Prabang approx 200+km of mountains roads.

My impression of Viang Vieng is not suitable for family but mostly caters for younger backpackers especially those who likes to booze will enjoy.Observed that many younger western tourist likes the place and at night most of them are at the bars or drinking on the streets while walking barefoot.









Riding out of Viang Vieng in the morning was pleasant as it was cool and traffic is not heavy although some of the roads are a bit potty as expected in this part of the country. Some common road hazards such as pigs, cows, poultry and pot holes just like Cambodia.The mountain scenery and farm lands are a common sight in the initial section of the route from Viang Vieng to Kasi enroute to Luang Prabang before Phou Khoun via route 13 which is the national HWY from south to north.






















Riding this section has been enjoyable as there is never a moment of boredom and I will endeavor to ride here again in the near future with lesser load on the bike.
















Surprisingly one can see a chinese eating shop in such a rural place .......................









Approaching close to the Phou Khoun section of the mountain road as the view is getting more amazing with huge mountains.







The first section of the morning ride up to Kasi is approx 60+km quite easy but the later part of the ride when nearing Phou Khon to Luang Prabang which is approx 160+km is demanding when riding solo on a fully loaded bike. There are so many huge mountains to ascend and descend moreover I have never seen so many mountains in my life and even those in Mae Hong Song is not as tough as these mountain roads. There are narrow with potholes, loose gravels, tight corners, heavy vehicles and buses and most crucial are those local village houses doorstep are at the main HWY13 with kids playing near road side and they cross the road with the dogs chasing after them.


Hwy signage sponsored by beer company?........perhaps it should include " Don't drink and drive".














Houses with hand weaved bamboo & leave walls at the road side...............one may easily land into their bedroom if riding recklessly.










Although the locals are living in poverty but they have a million dollar view.







Mid way in the mountains the traffic was halted by an accident where a bus was slightly damaged by a lorry and everybody stopped while waiting for those involved to settle the issue amicably. I was considering to squeeze in between the gap but a driver of a minivan shows his sign language not to do so & wait as it is better not to take risk alone. While waiting I struck a conversation with two mainland chinese driving their SUV and they are from Chongging. Their SUV is a luxury model which I think something like Infinity and they asked me whether I'm from Hongkong. When I told them I'm a M'sian and their immediate respond is "what happen to the plane....MH390?".................................see how others look at M'sian now?


We took pics and he gave me 2 bottles of chinese mineral water and a packets of seasoned radish which is also a China product.....very good as he claims. He also offered me chinese cigaratte which I politely refused.






A local man posing with my bike.....note the maroon colour SUV behind belongs to the chinese guy that I mentioned earlier (whom I met again in Luang Prabang later in the evening).



The journey was continued without any interruption neither any stop for drinks except for some occasional stops for taking pics without dismounting from the bike....................dangerous on narrow roads and legs are too tired.










Along the R 13 ......national hwy whereby houses are just inches by the roadside.
















One of the few cyclist that I saw along the R13........







Approaching near Xiang Ngeun..........




 
Entering Luang Prabang town.........noticed a significant presence of chinese businesses.









Checked in at Khonesavanh guesthouse which is located next to the Mekong for USD10.00 ......fan room with attached bathroom.









Met the chinese guy again who stays at the next door guesthouse @ USD25.00 more luxurious than mine......he buys me a beer Lao and we chatted while he played 9 balls.

















Had dinner at the foodstall near the night market after surveying the places for food and found that those restaurants that mostly caters for tourist are expensive. Goes for the hawker buffet @ 10,000kip for 1 bowl to fill up as to eat all you can and there are many backpackers eating there......so I tried with a bbq pork for another 10,000 kip & coke for 7,000 kip. I think it is also expensive and the food not good even the bbq pork I'm skeptical what type of meat it is and is greasy. Thus, I did not finish the BBQ .







Had a Lao coffee at the road side for 10,000kip and did not buy any Lao coffee powder as it is 35,000kip for 200gm which I prefer to drink Huea Hom coffee from Mae Hong Song.




Met this adorable doggie at the guesthouse............but has sharp teeth!!!!!!!



 
Wednesday morning (27 March 2014), I decided to check out of Luang Prabang and head to Pak Lay for a night before leaving Laos via Namheung.


Had breakfast at road side shop. A bowl of rice noodles soup with meat and Lao coffee for 60baht. No need to use USD there as baht is widely accepted here. Food tasted good and so is the coffee.





Walked around the streets along the tourist belt near Mekong and there are plenty of nice guesthouse and some boutique hotels which price ranges starting from approx USD60 upwards. Cheaper guesthouse is approximately USD25 if one requires the comfort of air-cond otherwise go for the cheaper stuff if you staying alone. The budget guesthouse is approximately USD10 just to sleep under the fan as during the night it is cool.







































Loaded up and ready to roll out of LP.......the young guesthouse operator who speaks mandarin.





Another solo cyclist heading out of LP towards south..................
 
Heading towards Pak Lay from LP via R4 after exiting at Xiang Ngeun...........................


Some minor roadworks on R13 before Xiang Ngeun.................



Initial section of R4 from Xiang Ngeun junction towards Xayaboury.....................light traffic for most of the section and good road surface.





Quiet road and smooth surface with cool morning breeze................lovely ride.




A short section of road repairs at the sides........................
















Better surfaces ahead..................................and small hills in this section.














Approaching near Xayaboury...........................






Saw 3 riders on enduros along the road ..........mostly foreigners on local plated bikes and ride along for some distances.









Broke off from the pack and ride ahead.......................................






Noticed that this section of the road.......many heavy cement trailers with Thai plates heading towards Xayaboury.............perhaps due to the dam projects.











Arrived at Pak Lay and checked in at Pado Guesthouse for 400 baht no wifi but comfortable bed and secured bike parking.







In front of the main road at the guesthouse. Food is not convenient here as I need to walk approx 1km for lunch.





Had Phat Khaw Moo with fried egg and a drink for 100baht...time is only 4.40pm on Laos..........that was early dinner and went back to sleep till 6.00am next morning.
 
27 March 2014 - 25th day of the trip.


Ride out of Pak Lay early morning approx 8.30am without breakfast and outside is foggy. First time I switch on my headlights at the early section of the ride in Laos. Headlights are not allowed in daytime same as Cambodia. Distance is short from here to Namhueng border is approx 60km. Saw a chicken crossing the road using zerbra crossing but the dog further up just walk slowly across and a herd of cows roaming freely as they like.


Usual morning routine.......loaded up the AT and ready to roll out.......better than getting to office routine except that now there is no income but outflow of $$$$$$.....




Some morning traffic in Pak Lay......................






Morning fog..........






Morning road hazard........................roaming cows.





Road hazards cleared ahead........................



Wonder how long will this tree be there before it is chop for timber.................seems to be quiet straight.




Selfie..................



My riding companion in the at noon......................shadow of me riding.




Approaching towards Namheung...................








Finally arrived at the border crossing in Namheung. The process by immigration and customs of Laos is smooth without much hassle and no payment required.






BON VOYAGE...........LAOS PDR.





I will return again and do it from Houei Xai on my next solo trip........................soon.
 
Day 25th of the trip - 27 March 2014.


Riding across the Namheung border towards Ban Nakraseng Boundary Post of Thailand is just a simple short ride across a small bridge but make sure to switch riding on the left side in Thailand and switch on headlights........hah!


Immigration & Customs officers in Thailand is friendly and helpful. No need any sought of fees at all although saw locals and Laotians are paying.
Ride from border exit to Chiang Khan is horrendous as the road is narrow, hilly, remote and with many pot holes. The later sections is next to the Mekong with Laos opposite the river bank.







Immediately upon exiting the Thai side border, I took the right turn heading towards Dan Sai via R2195 but after a short ride the road gets bad with huge dust and visibility is poor whenever there is a heavy vehicle pass by. So I detour and ride back to the opposite direction heading towards Tha Li which is the left turn after the exit of the border.









The road here to Chiang Khan is not good as well.................




















Along the Mekong riverside .....overlooking Laos.



Quarrying sand from the river....................




A quite and calm Mekong somewhere towards Chiang Khan.









Ride from Chiang Khan to Loei is smooth and is only approx 40+km. I did ride into Chiang Khan town and the river side where there are many small boutique hotels and guesthouses. However, I opt for Loei as the Phutawan Hotel suits me better and I will have my dinner then and this time I will go for the local buffet bbq to celebrate the trip to Laos. The receptionist at the hotel asked me how was Luang Prabang? I told her Chiang Mai is much better and without hesitation she happily agreed with a broad smile.




Dinner with buffet BBQ with a bottle of Leo beer @ 300baht.....prawns, fish, chicken, moo, bacon, intestines & liver, phat khaw, cold chicken feet salad with egg, century eggs, mushroom & vege, fried spring roll, fried chicken drumlet, ice cream, watermelon, pineapple & jack fruit. I can hardly walk back to hotel after the heavy stuff and beer.






 
28 March 2014 - Day 26th of the trip


Skype to wifey last night and will ride home instead of continue trip to Cambodia.......my pet dog at home is depressed.


Had a simple breakfast in the hotel room......usual f.o.c self served coffee and 2 meat buns from 7/11 next door.





Loaded up the AT and roll out of Loei and head towards south........ via R201 passing thro Chaiyaphum and Sikhiu and thereafter R 2 towards Saraburi.





Had a short break at Sikhiu and turn to R2 towards Saraburi....................








Stopped at ChokChai farm for coffeebreak and look for some souvenirs.








Cute petting animals for visitors..................














Enjoying a coffee after purchasing a nice cowboy leather belt for 600baht...............then followed by an ice cream before heading to Saraburi for a night.




Ooooops.................wrong angle for the camera as always when travelling alone.



Got it right this time........................enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Checked in at Kyo-un Hotel in Saraburi for 850 baht without breakkie...........which cost another 140 baht for buffet breakkie.




Dinner at the foodstall along the main road near the hotel...............food is lovely.




While walking back to the hotel after dinner, I noticed many shops selling the same delicacy ........dried pork meat and curry puffs. Asked the shop guy and he says that it is famous in Saraburi. So I bought 2 curry puffs for tomorrow.

 
29 March 2014.


Checked out of Kyo-Un hotel in Saraburi early morning. Met an american lady from Seattle riding bicycle solo and she just came back from Cambodia.





Went for buffet breakfast @ hotel which cost me 140 baht and ate well. I expect the ride out this morning @ 8.30am will not be easy as I don't have GPS and my map is torn Blind as a bat without reading glasses and can't see while riding although I placed in on top of my tank bag together with a compass. Trust my instinct and memory from past experience in BKK.....many detours and asked locals for directions. Saraburi to BKK is only less than 120km and today is Sat morning .......still heavy traffic..............spend at less 3 hrs riding around the hwys. Went into fringes of BKK and managed to find my way to Nakhon Pathom...then enroute to hwy4 to reach Prachap Khiri Khan @ 4.30pm & checked in the same hotel.........Ountawan Hotel for 450baht. The receptionist still remembers me......so no need passport & room was ready while I park my bike.



















Had a coffee break at Petronas station while figuring way out to Nakhom Pathom...............




Finally.........spotted the signage to Nakhom Pathom.




Local bathing her doggie at the seaside in Prachuap Khiri Khan.






Reward myself with a hearty dinner near the esplanade in Prachuap Khiri Khan.................spicy fish soup with rice and crab meat omelette and a coke all for 265 baht which is reasonable for a place like that and much cheaper than Hua Hin.






First time I ate a fish eyeball.....................





Done it all..................

 
30 March 2014 - Day 28th of the trip.


Ride out of Prachap Khiri Khan @ 8.00am after simple breakfast ...bought from 7 eleven & f.o.c coffee from hotel. Total distance rode for the day is approx 620km to Hatyai which is the longest ride of the trip. Arrived Hatyai @ 4.00pm with 4 breaks for drinks without any food and 3 top-up @ petrol kiosk.









Again looking for my loyal riding companion during noon.........shadow of my ride.





Saw a western couple riding a long bike.........what a sight when you see them riding on the road.



Checked in @ Wang Noy Hotel, Hatyai which is a nice boutique hotel for 1000baht and dinner @ beef noodle (66baht) stall opposite BP Grandplaza Hotel. Thereafter banana split @ Swenson for 155baht before going back to hotel to rest.










Banana split at Swensen .....a must whenever in Thailand. M'sian the price for the same @ Swensen is at least 200+ baht.
 
FINAL DAY of my trip (Day 29) - 31 March 2014


Breakfast @ Hatyai as usual also a MUST HAVE in Hatyai.....Bak Kut Teh, dim sum & coffee for 180baht. The best breakfast of the trip........most heavy and satisfying
breakkie of them all................each time and all the time when in Hatyai.















Rode to airport to collect parcels from post office there.......books, coffee powder & tee shirts plus some unused stuff. The Thai post office also mail motorcycles... eg. my bike 750cc is approx 6500baht to Chiangmai as quoted by them.







Checked out from hotel @ 12.00 noon and rode home. Arrived safely @ 5.30 pm......first time rode in the rain along Kedah state North South Hwy..........cooling after riding in the hot sun for 4 weeks.





Total distance rode for the entire trip of 29 days is approximately 8,200km with 475 litres of fuel consumed................based on my written records. The bike is 21 yrs old African Twin and has always been reliable for all my trips up north.


I truly enjoyed myself on this trip although there are some minor setbacks along the way and I did not ride the intended itinerary which include northern Laos bordering China
and entering Cambodia via southern Laos. However, I will ride there again within the near future and hopefully it will be a longer ride with better photos as well.


I am blessed to complete my journey safely and also most importantly I met with several people along this trip that I sincerely treat them as my friend .


God bless and ride safe always.


Regards


Lip Meng
 
What a great trip Lip Meng, glad to hear it went well and thanks for posting it on here
 
Great trip Lipmeng and thanks for posting it. My old head is still spinning a bit from looking at all the pictures but it was worth it. I recognized quite a few of the places you visited and maybe more important, also places I did not know about so the next time I am travelling, I will have some new places to visit.
 
Lipmeng 29 Day's that's quite a trip, thanks for posting and thanks for some very useful accommodation info along the way.

PS i am told the fish eye's have have some sort aphrodisiac quality or that was the excuse given to me to eat them :D
 
Thanks guys for the encouraging feedback and indeed it was a lovely ride.

I did not know that the fish eyes have aphrodisiac functions otherwise I may have another bowl of them............

Regards

Lip Meng
 
The most traveled solo adventurer in Thailand that I know and whose ride reports guided me to plan of my ride and also most importantly the Huay-hom coffee that I came to know.

DSC_0221.jpg

Look forward to see you again Colin on your next visit.

Regards

Lip Meng.
 
Lip - What a story! You really made the most of it. Glad I was around to meet you when you came through Chiang Mai, look forward to seeing you again for sure.



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KTMphil said:
Lip - What a story! You really made the most of it. Glad I was around to meet you when you came through Chiang Mai, look forward to seeing you again for sure.



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Thanks Phil.

It is indeed a great pleasure to meet you and I am sure that we will meet again on my next trip up north.

Regards

Lip Meng
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