Lone Rider
Blokes Who Can
My "Zig-Zag Trip through Central Laos" to Savannakhet started from Vientiane but along the way, as I had a few days off before I had some work to do in Champhone district (south-east of Savannakhet) I did some sight seeing and travelled quite a few kilometers (about 1200 km. in 3 days). From Vientiane my first stop was Ban Na Hin also known as Khoun Kham at Rd 8 to have a look at the progress of the expansion of the Theun Hinboun hydropower project. On the way back to Thakhek I stopped at the viewpoint for the "Limestone Karst Forest" - late afternoon and it was very quiet over there with nice views.
The route taken from Thakhek to Savannakhet
Next morning I set off from Thakhek en-route to Savannakhet which lies south of Thakhek but I instead I went east to the Vietnam border, then south to Bualapha and then west again either to Thakhek on paved roads or, if I could cross somehow cross the Xe Noy river, on to Savannakhet as much as possible on unpaved roads.
First stop was at the diversion tunnel in the down-stream channel of the Nam Theun Hydro Power project. Had seen the tunnel during the construction phase but not yet in operation and, as I was passing along it, just had a quick peek.
After a look-see of the Surface-to-Air missile in Gnommalath it was onwards to the Vietnam border.
Fishing fun along Rd 12.
From the turnoff at Rd 12 south to Bualapha, quite a few rivers need to be crossed but luckily it was in the dry season so the rivers were not too deep.
Bridge over the Huay Khachanh on the way from Rd 12 to Boualapha district:
Crossing the Nam Ngo river looked quite something at first sight but when I drove just a bit further I found that I would not get wet at all.
The Xe Bangfai crossing was also quite low and I could just drive through - walked it first and although it was not deep (less than 50 cm.) there were so many big boulders under water that I lost count and sight of them so I just went for it.
After a quick look in Bualapha it was west in the direction of Mahaxai and then south to see if I could cross the Xe Noy river with my truck. A long time ago a friend, who worked at the Vilabury Goldmine, mentioned that in the dry season it would be possible to cross the river so just tried my luck. While on my way to the river I spotted a van which also was looking to cross the river and when they saw me, they thought that I knew where the crossing was so they went "full speed" south to the river while I, when I saw them taking off, thought that they knew where the crossing was, took off after them. At the river we both got out of our cars and looked at and asked each other "where is the crossing" and then we found that both of us did not know. Luckily we were at the right place and entrepreneurial locals had even built part of a temporary bridge over the deepest part.
Crossing the Xe-Noy river on my way to the Sepon mine in Vilaboury district where part of the crossing was through the river and the deeper part on a temporary "toll" bridge. The old guy who manned the "toll" asked with a big smile for 50000 Kip which I found quite steep but then again, I was there for fun so did not mind for him to have a good day.
After the river crossing I had a choise - go west to Rd 13 and then on the Savannakhet or go east to Vilabury and then on to Savannakhet. As it was getting later and the unpaved road was good graded dirt I opted for Vilabury. After a few kilometers I saw a family of 4 walking along the road and they asked for a ride. Thought it would be to the next village but they kept quiet and only after some 25-30 km. or about a 4 hour walk, they indicated they needed to get off.
Spent the night in Vilaboury (slept in the Pongpan Saenpraset GH on the main road, had dinner at the Bounhome Restaurant and breakfast at the Manyvone Restaurant. From Vilabury I headed to the Vietnam Border on Rd 9, and from there, as it was still early, went then south to Nong. I was planning to have a look at the Lamson Battle Museum in Muang Dong (see for instance: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Lam_Son_719) but unfortunately (or maybe as usual?) it was closed and even the gate to the area around the museum was locked) so that was a bit of a disappointment.
On the way to Nong there is another piece of Lao history - part of the original Ho-Chi-Minh Trail).
In Nong I had a look at both the crossing for people and bikes as well as the crossing for trusks. Was interested how the 262 meter long bamboo bridge could survive quite a bit of flow in the river and found that the bamboo support structure of the bridge was filled with rocks to make it "longer lasting".
The ford where trucks can cross the Xe Lanong river during the dry season
From here it was a long ride over a potholed Rd 9 to Savannakhet - even though they are more or less constant repairing the road it seems a kind of "never-ending" repair as the road remain badly potholed everytime I have been using this road.
The next morning it was off to Champhone again with a small detour to Wat Phonthat where they were having their annual temple festival. After the usual financial contribution/entry fee to the festivities (20,000 Kip for which I got an official looking sticker) I was stopped a few hundred meters further on by armed guys in military uniforms who also asked for financial support which I found a bit odd. Did mention this to them in my best Lao languange and told them that I would go back to the "official payment station" to ask what was going on, and suddenly I was allowed to continue.
The stupa ot Wat Phonthat which seems to be most revered part of the temple.
Guys with guns who also demanded a financial donation
From here it was onwards to Chanphone for work to look at pig farms and options to generate clean energy from the pig waste. Although it was a tiring trip, it was also a fun trip and something I hope I will be able to do soon again.
The route taken from Thakhek to Savannakhet
Next morning I set off from Thakhek en-route to Savannakhet which lies south of Thakhek but I instead I went east to the Vietnam border, then south to Bualapha and then west again either to Thakhek on paved roads or, if I could cross somehow cross the Xe Noy river, on to Savannakhet as much as possible on unpaved roads.
First stop was at the diversion tunnel in the down-stream channel of the Nam Theun Hydro Power project. Had seen the tunnel during the construction phase but not yet in operation and, as I was passing along it, just had a quick peek.
After a look-see of the Surface-to-Air missile in Gnommalath it was onwards to the Vietnam border.
Fishing fun along Rd 12.
From the turnoff at Rd 12 south to Bualapha, quite a few rivers need to be crossed but luckily it was in the dry season so the rivers were not too deep.
Bridge over the Huay Khachanh on the way from Rd 12 to Boualapha district:
Crossing the Nam Ngo river looked quite something at first sight but when I drove just a bit further I found that I would not get wet at all.
The Xe Bangfai crossing was also quite low and I could just drive through - walked it first and although it was not deep (less than 50 cm.) there were so many big boulders under water that I lost count and sight of them so I just went for it.
After a quick look in Bualapha it was west in the direction of Mahaxai and then south to see if I could cross the Xe Noy river with my truck. A long time ago a friend, who worked at the Vilabury Goldmine, mentioned that in the dry season it would be possible to cross the river so just tried my luck. While on my way to the river I spotted a van which also was looking to cross the river and when they saw me, they thought that I knew where the crossing was so they went "full speed" south to the river while I, when I saw them taking off, thought that they knew where the crossing was, took off after them. At the river we both got out of our cars and looked at and asked each other "where is the crossing" and then we found that both of us did not know. Luckily we were at the right place and entrepreneurial locals had even built part of a temporary bridge over the deepest part.
Crossing the Xe-Noy river on my way to the Sepon mine in Vilaboury district where part of the crossing was through the river and the deeper part on a temporary "toll" bridge. The old guy who manned the "toll" asked with a big smile for 50000 Kip which I found quite steep but then again, I was there for fun so did not mind for him to have a good day.
After the river crossing I had a choise - go west to Rd 13 and then on the Savannakhet or go east to Vilabury and then on to Savannakhet. As it was getting later and the unpaved road was good graded dirt I opted for Vilabury. After a few kilometers I saw a family of 4 walking along the road and they asked for a ride. Thought it would be to the next village but they kept quiet and only after some 25-30 km. or about a 4 hour walk, they indicated they needed to get off.
Spent the night in Vilaboury (slept in the Pongpan Saenpraset GH on the main road, had dinner at the Bounhome Restaurant and breakfast at the Manyvone Restaurant. From Vilabury I headed to the Vietnam Border on Rd 9, and from there, as it was still early, went then south to Nong. I was planning to have a look at the Lamson Battle Museum in Muang Dong (see for instance: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Lam_Son_719) but unfortunately (or maybe as usual?) it was closed and even the gate to the area around the museum was locked) so that was a bit of a disappointment.
On the way to Nong there is another piece of Lao history - part of the original Ho-Chi-Minh Trail).
In Nong I had a look at both the crossing for people and bikes as well as the crossing for trusks. Was interested how the 262 meter long bamboo bridge could survive quite a bit of flow in the river and found that the bamboo support structure of the bridge was filled with rocks to make it "longer lasting".
The ford where trucks can cross the Xe Lanong river during the dry season
From here it was a long ride over a potholed Rd 9 to Savannakhet - even though they are more or less constant repairing the road it seems a kind of "never-ending" repair as the road remain badly potholed everytime I have been using this road.
The next morning it was off to Champhone again with a small detour to Wat Phonthat where they were having their annual temple festival. After the usual financial contribution/entry fee to the festivities (20,000 Kip for which I got an official looking sticker) I was stopped a few hundred meters further on by armed guys in military uniforms who also asked for financial support which I found a bit odd. Did mention this to them in my best Lao languange and told them that I would go back to the "official payment station" to ask what was going on, and suddenly I was allowed to continue.
The stupa ot Wat Phonthat which seems to be most revered part of the temple.
Guys with guns who also demanded a financial donation
From here it was onwards to Chanphone for work to look at pig farms and options to generate clean energy from the pig waste. Although it was a tiring trip, it was also a fun trip and something I hope I will be able to do soon again.
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