The Nine Tribes Festival

[2wheels]

(Part 1)

As part of a ride around the north I called into Chiang Saen to experience the 'Nine Tribes Festival'.

I rode out to the venue on Friday 4th January late afternoon, a day before the event actually commenced, just because I wanted to 'get a feel' for the area and the people. So glad I went early too.

The Festival is at Ban Huai Nam Yen.
This is how to get there;

From Chiang Saen Police Headquarters, go 14 kms along #1129 to this junction ...



... then another 7 kms through beautiful country ...





... just past the sign that says 'Ban Huwai Nam Yen' ...



... to this steep climb on the right.



The flat hill-top area was being prepared when I arrived.



Being the only 'Farang' there, I was treated to some wonderful hospitality and knew that Saturday 5th would be something special.
It was!

(GPS co-ordinates and event contact 'phone number will be added)

(continuing)

 

[KTMphil]

Wonderful that you got there Ron, the research paid off , looking forward to the photo's (good luck with the uploads).

 

[2wheels]

Saturday 5th January

I rode out to the Festival site early afternoon and parked the Honda somewhere conspicuous.
Still the only 'Farang' there.



So let's have a look at these 'Tribes'.
Each group had a base in which they got into their traditional costumes and prepared food etc.
My first pit-stop was at this wonderful Thai Lue house.



This gentleman welcomed me and offered home grown whiskey and food.
This was going to be a good day!



The rest-rooms.



The playground.



The Thai Lue drummer.



Thai Lue preparing and enjoying their traditional food.





Their costume.



Having enjoyed Thai Lue hospitality I moved on to other groups.

(continuing)

 

[2wheels]

Here's the base-camps of the other groups.















The crowd was now building and I mingled with the various groups, who were exceptionally friendly and hospitable.
Sampled 'a bit of this and a bit of that' throughout the rest of the day and night.





There was abundant food and drinks (including alcohol) available and some of the food was free!
I think the hosts were keen to see a 'Farang's reaction to their dishes.
It was all agreeable to me.

OK, so whilst we still have daylight, let's have a look around.

(continuing)

 

[2wheels]

(continuing)

 

[2wheels]

There were plenty of activities and 'yummies' for the children.















The flavoured shredded ice was a big hit.









Some-one down the hill had a very nice new home.



Many of the locals had shod their bikes with knobbly tyres for the local conditions.
It always amazes me where these bikes are ridden. Some of the tracks appear to be only for mountain goats. Hats off to you guys.





(continuing; some of the costumes)

 

[Ally]

Fabulous Ron ! So glad you were able to attend this event !!!

Well done, I am looking forward to the next installment.

Ally

 

[2wheels]

It sure was a colourful event!

















He had bought the jacket for 700 baht.













This gentleman was one of the organisers and was very friendly and helpful to me during the day.



A group of policemen, including Border Patrol Police, arrived.
One sat with me and described what was happening.



(continuing)

 

[2wheels]

I had noticed that the RideAsia parking lot was being put to good use by some-one who, with his cohort, vainly contrived to make this event their own!



These events are for all-comers.
That's the way the organisers wish it to be; the more visitors the merrier.

(continuing; the Parade)

 

[k0diak]

Good report, thanks for sharing!

Hint: For some of us who are not too familiar with the various tribes, this would be the perfect opportunity to learn about the differences...just a few lines here and there would suffice.

 

[2wheels]

Then they marched (and some were driven) down the hill to form The Parade ...







... then they marched up (the very steep) hill again to assemble at the podium.































A couple of elders struggled successfully up the steep incline.




(continuing; 'Bubble Boy')

 

[2wheels]

I'm absolutely no expert on the topic my friend, but I had intended to do exactly as you requested at the end of this report.
Maybe the more knowledgeable readers could add to it.
Thanks for your comments.

 

[2wheels]

This little urchin followed me around most of the day.
He would just appear, usually blowing bubbles.
Wonderful how much joy a 5 baht investment can bring.







His little mate wasn't quite as successful.








(continuing; The Assembly and night-fall)

 

[2wheels]

Then 'Bubble Boy' re-appears!









A few fire-works; nothing too extreme, including the lighting of a circle of white cotton that had been installed to encircle the Nine Tribes
as they assembled, then ignited so that it unified the whole group.



An interlude prior to the night's activity and time for more chatting, eating, playing and drinking.















I didn't stay as I wanted to see the Chiang Saen Saturday night Walking Street, but the Festival continued through the night and resumed Sunday.
This is an event I recommend to all.

Co-ordinates, map and relevant phone number following.

 

[Captain_Slash]

Great photos Ron, I am sure you really enjoyed yourself there

 

[2wheels]

The 'Nine Tribes Festival' site is at

N 20.20367
E 100.20333

For information about the program call the Ban Sao District Office on 053 181241 or 053 181251 (Thai).
For English call Khun Lucky at the wonderful Pak Ping Rim Khong Bead and Breakfast 0819933763.
She will be happy to help, as she did for me.

 

[Lone Rider]

Great post Ron and even grater pictures - must put this on my list of places to visit next year as it seems to be something which really comes from the people themselves and not some touristy gimmick.

 

[KTMphil]

Fantastic photography 2W, great to see one of these festivals documented properly. Below is a map showing the "9 Tribes Festival's" location south east of Chiang Saen.

 

[Just Bob]

Big thanks for this Ron! I'm in the middle of reading "The Shan - Culture, Art and Crafts" by Susan Conway so for once I have some clue about the different groups. A very timely post! Its great to see different tribes maintaining and celebrating their uniqueness, and coming together.

Highly recommend this book. First few chapters really help to understand the genesis of many of these tribes from before the current national borders were randomly decided on by colonizers.

 

[2wheels]

Bob, thanks for the useful reference. Will order one.

Its great to see different tribes maintaining and celebrating their uniqueness, and coming together.

Totally agree; and such people are so pleased and proud to share their culture.

Auke, you'd really enjoy it mate.

it seems to be something which really comes from the people themselves and not some touristy gimmick.

True!

Thanks Ally, Colin, Phil.

 

[Lone Rider]

I'm absolutely no expert on the topic my friend, but I had intended to do exactly as you requested at the end of this report.
Maybe the more knowledgeable readers could add to it.
Thanks for your comments.

I am certainly also not an expert but for people who want to know/learn more about the different tribal groups in the North of Thailand I recommend them to visit the Tribal Museum in Chiangmai. The Tribal Museum in Chiang Mai is an ethnology museum featuring the indigenous culture of 9 hill tribes including Karen (Kariang), Hmong (Meo), Mien (Yao), Lisu (Liso), Akha (Iko), Lahu (Musoe), Lau,Thin, and Khamu including the minority tribe of Malabri

The Museum is located west of the 107 in/behind the Ratchamangkla Park. Address: King Rama IX Lanna Garden on Chotana Road, Tel: +66 (0) 5321 0872, Opening Hours: daily 09:00 - 16:00, (coordinates N18.82155 E98.97450).



Another source of information on tribal groups was the Tribal Reserach Center at Chiangmai University but this research cnter has been closed and partly incorporated into the Social Research Unstitute of Chiangmai University. For those who want to know a bit more about the history of the Tribal Research Center, Kwanchewan Buadeng of the Social Research Institute has written and presented a paper at the Ninth International Conference on Thai Studies, April 2005, Northern Illinois University, USA.

The Rise and Fall of the Tribal Research Institute (TRI): "Hill Tribe" Policy and Studies in Thailand by Kwanchewan Buadeang


Abstract: The Tribal Research Center/Institute (TRI) was inaugurated in 1965 and dissolved by the Thai government Bureaucratic Reform Act in 2002. This paper discusses the rise and fall of the TRI by showing that the TRI has come from the need of the Thai government, with the support from foreign agencies, to have an "advisory and training" center to deal with "hill tribe problems," in the context where few ethnic studies institutes and researchers existed. TRI had actively served its mother organizations by providing them necessary information and recommendation for the monitoring, evaluation and improvement of the government and highland development projects, while its resource center and experts had served academic society for many decades. In 2000s, when "hill tribe problems" have diminished: communist operation stopped, opium cultivation reduced and hill tribes were seemingly well integrated into Thai society, the government no longer needed to maintain its focus on the hill tribes and related organizations. The TRI's role was terminated without any proper handing over of its human and other resources to the right institute. Unlike years ago, however, now ethnic studies institutes and especially ethnic own organizations and communities have grown up to take care of their problems, arising from government policy and modernization, by carrying out ethnic studies and development by their own.

The full paper can be downloaded here: http://repository.kulib.kyoto-u.ac.jp/dspace/bitstream/2433/53861/1/KJ00004517889.pdf


I do have a small booklet from the Tribal Research Center published by the Technical Services Club of the TRI entitled "The Hill Tribes of Thailand" (First edition 1986). This includes the Farm Calender of the Opium growing and the Non-Opium growing tribal groups which may be useful as many of their ceremonies are related to the farming cycle

I have also a copy of "The historical background and Tradition of the Meo" written by Dhammaraso Bhikkhu and Virocano Bhikkhu of the Doi Pui Hermitage (First published in 1973)

Not sure if these are still available but in case you are very interested in them please let me know.

 

[k0diak]

Thanks for the book and museum recommendations, I'll look into them.

 

[Just Bob]

Lone Rider - That paper on the TRI was interesting. It is far too uncommon for a government to try to assimilate "problem" groups with respect and understanding than it is to isolate or attack them. Very commendable of the Thai people, even if part of the impetus was along these lines;

The General Secretary of SEATO echoed similar observations when he stated:
The Royal Thai Government is to be commended for the efforts it is making to attend to the
wants and needs of its minority peoples. . . it is a wise policy, particularly when one considers
the bi-polar nature of political developments in the world today. I need not remind you. . . that
it is among minority peoples that Communist propagandists and agitators find a fertile field for
their subversive activities. Totalitarian Communism hesitates not one moment in seizing upon
their legitimate problems and aspirations and twisting them to its own use. . . . It is thus a
matter of the utmost importance that steps be taken to isolate and study these problems and
aspirations. . . . [ibid.: ]

I get a cold chill every time I'm reminded of the politics of that era.

My reason for posting ... That paper was dated December 2006 and implied that the "hill tribe groups" were not given Thai citizenship. Is this true today? I know the Burmese refugee groups are isolated but surely the ethnic groups that fall within the Thai borders have by now been fully recognized? Are they truly "chao rao"?

 

[2wheels]

Thanks Auke; good stuff, as usual.
BTW, the lake area around that Tribal Museum (free entry last time I went) has some fantastic evening restaurants.

 

[Lone Rider]

My reason for posting ... That paper was dated December 2006 and implied that the "hill tribe groups" were not given Thai citizenship. Is this true today? I know the Burmese refugee groups are isolated but surely the ethnic groups that fall within the Thai borders have by now been fully recognized? Are they truly "chao rao"?

Bob,

I would be very happy if I could say that the tribal people are Thai citizens now but that would be way beyond reality. The truth is that most have no real legal status in Thailand and although they might have an ID card these only establish their identity but do not indicate Thai citizenship.

This is just a quote from UNESCO Bangkok (a UN Organization) from 2011: Very few identification cards held by hill tribe people establish Thai citizenship, leaving many as stateless individuals. According to data from UNHCR, there are approximately 900,000 hill tribe "color card" holders in Thailand who are not recognized as Thai citizens, and are therefore, functionally stateless. (http://www.unescobkk.org/news/article/unesco-combating-lack-of-legal-status-among-ethnic-groups).

Some more "food for thought":

Hill Tribes / Indigenous People

http://www.ijm.org/sites/default/files/resources/Factsheet-Hill-Tribe-Citizenship.pdf

http://www.fmreview.org/sites/fmr/files/FMRdownloads/en/FMRpdfs/FMR30/31-33.pdf

 

[Lone Rider]

My reason for posting ... That paper was dated December 2006 and implied that the "hill tribe groups" were not given Thai citizenship. Is this true today? I know the Burmese refugee groups are isolated but surely the ethnic groups that fall within the Thai borders have by now been fully recognized? Are they truly "chao rao"?

Bob,

I would be very happy if I could say that the tribal people are Thai citizens now but that would be way beyond reality. The truth is that most have no real legal status in Thailand and although they might have an ID card these only establish their identity but do not indicate Thai citizenship.

This is just a quote from UNESCO Bangkok (a UN Organization) from 2011: Very few identification cards held by hill tribe people establish Thai citizenship, leaving many as stateless individuals. According to data from UNHCR, there are approximately 900,000 hill tribe “color card” holders in Thailand who are not recognized as Thai citizens, and are therefore, functionally stateless. (http://www.unescobkk.org/news/article/unesco-combating-lack-of-legal-status-among-ethnic-groups).

Some more "food for thought":

Hill Tribes / Indigenous People

http://www.ijm.org/sites/default/files/resources/Factsheet-Hill-Tribe-Citizenship.pdf

http://www.fmreview.org/sites/fmr/files/FMRdownloads/en/FMRpdfs/FMR30/31-33.pdf

 

[2wheels]

See, what a source of information is 'RideAsia'!