The ancient city of Wiang Lo

[Lone Rider]

Day trip to the ancient city of Wiang Lo

During my travels in the north of Thailand I did see several times signs for the ancient city of "Wiang Lo" but as usual ,being on my way from A to B, I never took the time to check it out. Having some spare time I decided now was the time to go and have a look at what it is all about. Again an early morning departure and with a waypoint in my GPS for the point (Rd 4006 to Rd. 1126) where I would have to turn north from Rd. 1021 to reach the site along the Mae Ing river, it was quite easy to find.

Early morning on the road and you can see this quite often - kids going to school and having forgotten to make their homework and please can I copy it from you?

Map showing the location of Wiang Lo in relation to Phayao

But first a little bit of the history of Wiang Lo (based on "Notable Cities and Communities of the Lan Na Kingdom" - source: http://www.sri.cmu.ac.th/~elanna/elanna_eng/public_html/cities/city16.html)

Wiang Lo is situated between the foothills of Doi Chik Chong and the Ing River. The shape of the city is like a flattened ring, measuring about 500 meters in diameter, enclosed by moats and earthen walls, partly strengthened by bricks. The Ing River runs through the mounds of the southern wall, and in previous times the course of the river flowed through the middle of the city from the south to the northeastern city corner. Wiang Lo is about 500-600 years old according to a stone inscription and sandstone Buddha images excavated within Wiang Lo. Inside the moat and city wall, some 10 ancient sites and another 40 sites outside the city moat have been documented. The most important is Wat Phra That Nong Ha, the largest monastery with a chedi reflecting Lan Na architecture. The bell-shaped portion of the chedi is octagonal and similar to the chedi at Wat Lee in Phayao province.

During the period of the Lan Na Kingdom, Wiang Lo was an important city situated on communication routes between Chiang Saen, Chiang Khong, Thoeng, Phayao, Nan, and Laos. The city is mentioned in the story of Phra Chao Thong Thip of Wat Suan Tan in Nan, when King Tilokaraja took his army to attack the city of Nan in 1450. The King of Lan Na brought the army through Wiang Lo, and appointed one of his noblemen to rule Wiang Lo. The city of Wiang Lo has been continuously inhabited.

Even when under Burmese rule, the city was under the domination of Phayao. However, it is possible that the city was abandoned for a while, as it is noted that when Prince Kawila came and attacked the cities of Wiang Lo and Muang Thoeng, upon winning the battles, the Prince had all the people relocated to Chiang Mai. Today, Muang Lo is a ruined city that can be seen in sub-district Hong Hin, in the district of Chun in Phayao Province. Most of the land in the old city is now used for agriculture, and some is composed of rubble, where a large number of brick-lined wells have been discovered.

A bit of a close up of the Wiang Lo area

Google Earth screengrab showing the tracks and waypoints of the various temple ruins

So, Wat Phra That Nong Ha which is also known as Phrathat Khiri Si Wiang Lo, being the largest and most important temple in Wiang Lo, was on the top of my list. Co-incidentally, it was also one of the easiest to find temples as it is located right along Rd 1126 and you can't miss it (N19.45078 E100.07575).

The archaeologists who did a lot of digging in this area used modern technology like GIS to map the area and here and there you will find markers for this - http://www2.onep.go.th/soe/TNE/TNE-51-V3.pdf

Most but not all of the ruins had signs providing a description (in Thai and English) about the history of that particular temple. Considering that these signs all looked new I assume that they were put there during the last Pu Cha Phaya Lo Fair (Bucha Phra Lo) which is organized on 9 April every year at Wiang Lo Ancient Town.

The aim of the Bucha Phra Lo fair is to pay respect to the Wiang Lo ancestors and to create consciousness among the people to cherish and preserve the site. During the fair there are parades, light and sound presentations, cultural performances and a procession inviting the spirits of Wiang Lo’s past Kings. One of these kings was Pho Khun Ngam Mueang or Phu Kam Yao, a former king of Phayao, who was in power some 750 years ago. During his reign, the state prospered and expanded its territory.

Statue of the King of Phayao - Pho Khun Ngam Mueang or Phu Kam Yao (N19.16865 E99.89568)

King Pho Khun Ngam Mueang was a close ally of King Mengrai, the ruler of Chiang Rai, and King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai and they formed an alliance of harmony, loyalty and non-aggression. The Three Kings Monument in Chiangmai shows the harmony of these three kings - King Mengrai of Lanna (center), King Ngam Muang of Phayao (left) and King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai (right).

The Three Kings Statue or the Sam Kasat Statue in Chiangmai (N18.79021 E98.98757) - picture from Wikimedia

To be continued

 

[Ally]

Great stuff, thanks for sharing Auke.

Ally

 

[Lone Rider]

Part 2 - Heading east along a gravel road from Wat Phrathat Nong Ha in search of more temples I found quite a few along the road but most of them were not more than piles of bricks and rubble and generally overgrown while for some of them you could find a bit more but again in most cases this was limited to the floor and walls. What surprised me was that most of these ruins had a newish Buddha statue placed on where formely a Buddha statue had been situated. Another surprise was that most of these temples and Buddha statues were linked by a sacred thread called "Sai Sin" in Thai so I assume that the annual Pu Cha Phaya Lo or Bucha Phra Lo fair is more of a ceremony for the local population rather than a "fair" and this might be a reason for me to head there next year on the 9th of April when the annual fair/ceremony is being held.

Some pictures of the temple ruins visited out of the 10-12 or so which are still easily visible:

Ku Buak Ku

Wat Sri Chum - also mainly ruins but one of the few temples with a Buddha Statue

The new Buddha statue

The old Buddha statue

The same statue a few years ago (picture copyright by Khmwer Search)

Wat Ku Kueak Ma

Foundation stones for the pillars for the roof or the temple

Wat Saraphi

Village life along the Ing river

The suspension bridge over the Ing river (cars can not cross here) which links with Ban Wiang Lo from the area where most of the ruins are located

The Ing River

Weir in the Ing river

Crossing the Ing river next to the weir - not sure if you can cross here with a car during the rainy season.

Some statues of other local rulers in Ban Wiang Lo

Wat Sri Ping Mueang and the Boran Sathan Wiang Lo (Wiang Lo Ancient Remains) in Ban Wiang Lo

The Wiang Lo Museum is located in the temple grounds and around the ancient stupa you will see remains of many Buddha statues.

The City Pillar Shrine with ancient inscriptions

And the last - Wat Phratat Bun Nak (a bit north of Phrathat Khiri Si Wiang Lo or Phra That Nang Lo along Rd. 1269) which has, beside the ruins of the old temple also a new part which is still under construction

Remains of an old stupa with a tiny Buddha on top of a tree truck which grew through the stupa

You probably will ask what is there to see in this picture this but this picture shows the only remains I could find of the moats and earthen walls which protected the ancient city from intruders.

This signboard shows these moats and earth walls as yellow/brownish lines with Wat Phratat Bun Nak being shown in the top-left corner of the sign.

While in Phayao enjoying a coffee and pie at "Cup Cake" at Khwan Phayao the skies darkened and it finally started raining which provided a very welcome cool end of a very hot day looking at ruins.

 

[Ally]

Thank you again Auke.

Ally