Sunflowers and Razorwire

[2wheels]

The main reason for this tour was two-fold;

1 Tim 'Gnasher' was here from England for a few months and needed a 'shake-down' ride for himself and his CRF.

2 We were keen to see the 'Sunflower and Tribal Festival' up at Huai Mae Kham on the Thai/Burma border.

Day 1
14th November.

To ease the pain Tim had bought a strip of matting to fix to his seat.
Pic of it in place later.



Our first stop was Mae Kachan where Tim tried his first ever bowl of Gwoitiow … and liked it, despite the appearance of scepticism!



We turned off #118 at Huai Som and joined the delightful #109.

Quite a few nice timber homes along this link road.



Then along the #109 enjoying the views and the twisty bits.







Then onto the #107, by-passing Fang, a coffee at Mai Ai and on to Thaton.

I met this delightful and enthusiastic lady on the bridge at Thaton.



She was the owner of this Guest House beside the river and was riding around attracting guests.
The 'Sappaya Guest House'.

+6608079228725
sunitedk@yahoo.com



Then it was up the hill to vista Wat Thaton where I found the Ajarn conducting lessons for the novices.
Lots of new construction going on here too, with a new section which will offer stunning views along the Kok River, city, valley and mountains.









This novice was learning very basic Thai script … and enjoying the view.





We rode further up the hill to Wat Pha Jedigow.







And even higher up on another hill spotted this.



Saturday.



Then on the road again along the #1089 …



… and the chopped up #1234 into Santikhiri.

Oops!



We called into the first GH we saw, which happened to be the 'See See Guest House', which offered secure parking, a friendly owner and staff, nice views and chilled views.
Bungalow rooms were twice what they were worth at 800 baht though.











http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santikhiri


The friendly owner, Khun Juang, owns the See See Coffee Plantation which we would try to find on 15th.
Our GPS tracks will show our attempt!!

 

[2wheels]

Day 2
15th November.


Woke to a heavy cloud cover.



Then a chat with Khun Juang to get directions to his plantation.





'See See GH' during daylight.



Tim's seat cover!
Apparently it's quite effective.



So we head back down #1234 a bit too far but the bonus was that we found these charming little Akha girls beside the road (precariously beside the road!)
selling wrist bands. So I bought a few as gifts.











The turn-off for the track to the plantation is just past the Thai Military Bank, at the market.
It was difficult to find because it turned out we had to actually ride through a school ground to get onto it!
Once on it the ride was very enjoyable.

Chinese graves.





The track eventually joins #1234.







Then the curvaceous #1234 and #3051 towards Thoed Thai.



We stayed at the 'Rim Taan GH', which had good rooms for 600 baht.



A friendly welcome.









It's a bit noisy near the river because of a nearby school with a loud speaker.



Loy Krathong time!



That night we went next door to a Chinese restaurant which did not have either fish or chicken!
Nor cold beer!

Tomorrow; the Festival on the border.

 

[Just Bob]

Subscribed...

Whatever you paid for your camera, its worth ten times more.

 

[2wheels]

Day 3
16th November (part 1)


OK, on to the Festival.

Tim had already checked the road out towards Hua Mae Kham, so I rode on ahead and would wait for him along the way.

What a magnificent ride that is.











I saw a group of people at Pang Ma who were preparing for the Festival, so I stopped there for a friendly chat, lots of smiles and a local gwoiteo.











I don't know what 'tribal group' these girls belong to but a Thai friend told me they were 'mixed'.
Maybe an expert can advise us?









Then Tim arrived, and we shared a snack and a plan.

 

[KTMphil]

You always get such great composure in your photo's Ron, a joy to read through this.

 

[2wheels]

Day 3
16th November (part 2)


So we arrived at the busy and very hilly site of the Festival, found a place to squeeze our bikes into and set off down the hill to where we heard music.
(Gotta get that knee replacement done!)







We were greeted by the village school principal who chatted with us for a while then appointed the next passer-by to escort us through the winding village streets to the festival grounds …







… where we were to see a wonderful mix of 'tribal groups', colours, faces and languages.
(Please correct me if I'm wrong)

Akha



? (mixed)





Hmong



Hmong



Hmong



VIP



Gorgeous



Akha



Army



Chinese



Hmong



This Border Patrol Officer sat with us and chatted for a while.





Black Hmong



Lisu









Akha



(continuing … break for sustenance!)

 

[2wheels]

(Flower Festival continuing)

Akha



Yao





Hmong



Then these colourful little angels appeared but I don't what group they belong to.









Yao





Lisu



Lisu













Hmong?



Lisu



So that was a glimpse of the Flower and Tribal Festival at Hua Mae Kham 2013.
Highly recommended.
I'll be there next time and will stay at the village overnight, mainly because I believe it could be quite fun there after sunset.

We scrambled our way back to our bikes and headed back along the track towards Rim Taan at Thoed Thai.





Back there I found an excellent steam bun shop on the main road.



That night we avoided the inadequate Chinese restaurant next to Rim Taan and indulged in a good Thai buffet place further down the road.

(continuing later tonight. My new new favourite road and Loy Krathong in Ban Mai)

 

[bsacbob]

Great pictures Ron unfortunately i missed the event this year.

 

[Ally]

Fabulous Ron.

Thanks for sharing the colours & sights with us.

And thanks Gnasher for the modelling!

Ally

 

[Vancouver Man]

Subscribed...

Whatever you paid for your camera, its worth ten times more.

It ain't the camera. It's the person behind the lens. Those are a great series of portraits. Well done. There are too many wonderful photos in that group to pick out just one.

 

[2wheels]

Day 4
17th November



Last year Tim had found and ridden #1149 along the Burma/Thai border to Mae Sai.
That was our destination today.


So we headed out from Thoed Thai and got onto #1338 and the wonderful #1149 via Doi Tung.



Perfect tracks for a CRF.







Lunch at a wet Doi Tung.
I checked the admission costs for the gardens and was pleasantly surprised to find that all visitors, regardless of nationality,
pay the same fee; as it should be.

We didn't hang around due to unpredictable weather.





Seen in the employee's bike park.







A winding road to a sacred place.







Then onto the #1149; Burma to the left, Thailand right.



The first security check was no problem.
Tim showed a copy of his Visa page from his United Kingdom passport, which was handed back to him and we were politely allowed to pass.





Now this is, to me, very special.
The friendly officer told me that the Thai Border Patrol guys play takraw on this court with their Burmese counter-parts from just across the border.
(He added that Thailand always wins!)





OK, let's ride the #1149.















It's another world in there to the left.



This won't go un-noticed!



These BP officers were walking the road and willingly posed for this pic.





And we were 'checked-out' of #1149 here, not too far from Mae Sai.
A car-width dirt track went off here to the left into Burma.



Wat Maha Jedi Sana Suk



On #1149 heading to the turn off to Highway 1 and Loy Krathong with the village people at Ban Mai.



(next; Loy Krathong and Tim mobbed by village women)

 

[Vancouver Man]

Another series of stunning photos. Thanks for sharing. Not many cyclists stop long enough to take pictures and that is a loss. I have a buddy who just likes to ride and I am always stopping for picture taking. Some times I don't take the picture I want because I'm too far behind.

 

[2wheels]

Night 4
still 17th November.


David Learmonth and his wife Khun Fon at Ban Mai (off #1016) had invited us to stay at their home, so we arrived there just in time for their
Loy Krathong celebrations.

Once couthed up we headed down to where a group were drinking, eating, yelling and singing.
Upon seeing new flesh in town, a few of the ladies took a sudden interest in Tim …. like an innocent lamb to the slaughter!
Very friendly and welcoming people. We shared a few snacks and drinks with them, then headed off to the village Temple.























A fun night was had by all.

David has this very nice Triumph T100 for sale.
Contact me by pm if interested.

 

[2wheels]

Day 5
18th November



Along Highway 1 to Mae Chan where we booked into the friendly Huen Nua Resort at

N 2013441
E 99.86211

We paid 400 baht each for good rooms.



The owner, Ajarn Chalermpol, runs the school back near Rim Taan in Toed Thai.
He's also a biker.



(The school and other attractions are featured in here) http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-forum/thailand-ride-reports/3291-new-favourite-road-repaired.html


We met up with Phil 'Steaminjungle' and Khun Pim and went out to the excellent Cat Cafe in Pasang at

N 20.07269
E 99.86815



Excellent food is served here.



Then we went around to the very popular Choui Fong Tea Plantation, which has expanded since I was last there.
1,200 Rai of plantation.









Back on Highway 1 we visited a couple of excellent coffee shops.











Later that night the sounds of thunder and rain on the roof.
Wet dreams and a very wet day tomorrow!

 

[2wheels]

Day 6
19th November


Sure enough, it was raining when we left Mae Chan (thanks for the breakfast Khun Pim) ….
and it rained all the way along #1020, Pa Daet and #1021 through Dokhamtai and into Phayao!

So much so that my mobile phone was destroyed.
Happily, the Montana that KTM Phil had lent me was not phased by the wet conditions.

So, due to the rain, there weren't any photo ops here.

We arrived in Phayao and found the excellent Huan Pak Home Stay, which has views across the lake.
Upon seeing our drenched appearance the young owner offered to spin dry all of our clothing.
He also guided our bikes into the off-street parking area, which has a lockable gate.





Large rooms for 600 baht.
It's a biker friendly place; mainly because this young guy rides a Ducati Monster.

054 482659





Dried out and refreshed, I took a stroll beside Kwan Phayao.

Normally, the mountains can be seen across the lake.









There are some fine old homes in Phayao …



… and some excellent restaurants with quirky menus.





Still raining.



(tomorrow; homeward bound …. rain or shine!)

 

[The Bigfella]

Lovin' it, Ron.

Great report

 

[Vancouver Man]

It will be very hard to top this thread report. Thanks for taking the time.

 

[2wheels]

Day 7
Final Day 21st November



I awoke to these views from the Home Stay bedroom window.
(Still no sunshine but at least the rain had stopped.)







When the lake was created a 500 year old Temple was drowned.
Phayaoans are divided whether or not to develop the site where the Temple lies buried.


http://thailand.yinteing.com/2009/10/10/oldest-underwater-temple-in-kwan-phayao/


http://teakdoor.com/northern-thailand-forum/14195-wat-tilokaram-underneath-kwan-phayao-lake.html






How it used to be.
This magnificent old mansion (now labelled as 'Kwan Phayao Stupa House') beside the lake, which I think is about 100 years old.











Excellent food and service here.



Time to 'hit the road'.
Back along #120 and a brief stop at Tarn Tong waterfall.





A somtam stop at Wang Nua.



A therapeutic stop at 'Nine-One' coffee, with its hot water trough.



Tim seemed to enjoy it.



A young couple next to us were busily communicating … but not with each other!



Home.



An excellent and varied circuit which was without incident; well, apart from a fried 'phone.

I'll try to get a map of our ride onto here asap.

 

[Lone Rider]

Thanks Ron, a great read and very pleasing on the eye with all the pictures.

 

[steaminjungle]

Another good one Ron.

I think you would do a fine report if you walked round my garden !

Great stuff and love all the portraits of peeps you met on your ride. On and An have the wrist bands you bought from the Akha kids. Oh and good to see yer again. Be in your neck of the woods real soon I hope.

 

[2wheels]

Thanks all for your encouragement.

 

[2wheels]

I have been trying to find the story of this old teak mansion in Phayao, unsuccessfully so far!



Meanwhile, for those who haven't lingered in Phayao city, here's some useful info.
It's one of my favourite places in Thailand.

Phayao Province - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

http://visitphayao.com/en/district/muang

 

[2wheels]

And here's 4 pages of things to see in and around delightful Phayao.

Search results in Phayao sights and attractions

 

[Changnoi1]

The beautiful mansion ... when they did put a fence in front I thought "there is going to happen something" but no. Although you can see that something is done to preserve the building (look to the wood). I do not know the details but I know a wealthy company tried to buy it (to make a hotel) but failed. There might be ownership problems (different owner of the land and house). A situation that is distroying many beautiful buildings in Thailand. In Nan, Lampang and Bangkok are some sad looking but beautiful buildings.

And indeed Phayao is very nice place anyway.

 

[2wheels]

The land used to be open, so anyone could enter and roam around (and even in) this magnificent place.
I imagine there were serious safety concerns regarding this 'open access'.
At least the place is secured much better now.

I'll revisit and try to find out more about its history and what the future plans are.

 

[2wheels]

It took a while (and some lateral but obvious thinking!), but here's some info about that Mansion.

From a PhD Thesis by Khun Prakabsiri Pakdeepinit (2007)



"The Suthaphat House



The house is located in the city center. It borders with the Luang Phisit Kayakorn House in the north, Chay Kwan Restaurant in the east, and Kwan Phayao Lake and Chay Kwan Road in the west and south.

Architectural aspects:

The house is located in a nine rai area overlooking the lake. It is composed of three golden teak houses; one big two-story house and two one-story houses to the east of the big one.

History:

Built in 1922 during the reign of King Rama V, the house is of historical significance.
Once owned by a famous and wealthy nobleman, Luang Srinakharanukun, it had been a guest house of kings and noblemen who visited or were on official visits to the province in the past.
The name of the house was given by Queen Indarasaksaji, the royal consort of King Rama VI.

Archeological structures and objects:

The teak houses were beautifully constructed by professional carpenters from Shanghai, China.
The most exquisite is the main house. Its roof is made from small planks of wood manually designed and polished until they look like concrete tiles.
The door panes were exquisitely designed and carved. Each pillar was carved in th eform of climbing ivy.
Decorative wares and household utensils kept inside the house safe priceless and of architectural value. "

 

[bsacbob]

Thanks for the information Ron very interesting stuff, 1922 that's a very old house by thai standards, although my last home in England being built in 1621 would be a real museum piece in Los

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

 

[2wheels]

It took a while but here's the map of our circuit; thanks Tim.

 

[bigalmorris]

Another breathtaking photographic series

It took a while but here's the map of our circuit; thanks Tim.



View attachment 23313

Thank you Ron for sharing such fabulous shots . You have an eye for beauty in all its forms. Well done mate

 

[2wheels]

Well, a Thai friend went to the Municipal Offices at Phayao today and enquired about the future plans for the mansion beside the lake (Suthaphat House).

"Why do you ask? There are no plans", was the dismissive reply.

 

[Vancouver Man]

Well, a Thai friend went to the Municipal Offices at Phayao today and enquired about the future plans for the mansion beside the lake (Suthaphat House).

"Why do you ask? There are no plans", was the dismissive reply.

But they can slap a coat of gold paint on another new temple and call it a shrine.

 

[fabianfred]

corrections

Day 3
16th November (part 1)


OK, on to the Festival.

Tim had already checked the road out towards Hua Mae Kham, so I rode on ahead and would wait for him along the way.

What a magnificent ride that is.

View attachment 22844

View attachment 22845

View attachment 22846

View attachment 22847

View attachment 22848

I saw a group of people at Pang Ma who were preparing for the Festival, so I stopped there for a friendly chat, lots of smiles and a local gwoiteo.

View attachment 22849
Hmong

View attachment 22850
Hmong

View attachment 22851

View attachment 22852
Mien (Yao)
View attachment 22853
Hmong

I don't know what 'tribal group' these girls belong to but a Thai friend told me they were 'mixed'.
Maybe an expert can advise us?

View attachment 22854
Hmong

View attachment 22855

View attachment 22856

View attachment 22857

Then Tim arrived, and we shared a snack and a plan.

View attachment 22858

I just added the tribe to some of the pix...

 

[fabianfred]

corrections to photos

Day 3
16th November (part 2)


So we arrived at the busy and very hilly site of the Festival, found a place to squeeze our bikes into and set off down the hill to where we heard music.
(Gotta get that knee replacement done!)

View attachment 22860

View attachment 22862

View attachment 22861

We were greeted by the village school principal who chatted with us for a while then appointed the next passer-by to escort us through the winding village streets to the festival grounds …

View attachment 22863

View attachment 22864

View attachment 22865

… where we were to see a wonderful mix of 'tribal groups', colours, faces and languages.
(Please correct me if I'm wrong)

Akha

View attachment 22866

? (mixed)... Hmong girls

View attachment 22867

View attachment 22868

Hmong.... Lahu man

View attachment 22869

Hmong

View attachment 22870

Hmong ... Lisu girls

View attachment 22871

VIP

View attachment 22872

Gorgeous ..Lisu

View attachment 22873

Akha

View attachment 22874

Army .. Lisu dancers in BG

View attachment 22875

Chinese

View attachment 22876

Hmong ... Lisu girl

View attachment 22877

This Border Patrol Officer sat with us and chatted for a while.

View attachment 22878

Lisu kids
View attachment 22879

Black Hmong .. Lisu man

View attachment 22880

Lisu .... Red Lahu girls

View attachment 22881

View attachment 22882

View attachment 22883

View attachment 22884

Akha

View attachment 22885

(continuing … break for sustenance!)

just corrected some of the photo descriptions....
I saw you there... I have many pix on my Flickr... and Youtube videos of the dancing...

Hill-tribe & Sunflower festival 2013 - a set on Flickr

 

[2wheels]

Thank you!

 

[2wheels]

This seems to be a good site re (mostly) Northern Thailand groups.

Hilltribe Thailand

 

[Lone Rider]

It took a while (and some lateral but obvious thinking!), but here's some info about that Mansion.


"The Suthaphat House" From a PhD Thesis by Khun Prakabsiri Pakdeepinit (2007)

The house is located in the city center. It borders with the Luang Phisit Kayakorn House in the north, Chay Kwan Restaurant in the east, and Kwan Phayao Lake and Chay Kwan Road in the west and south.

View attachment 23144

History of the teak mansion also known as the "Suthaphat House"

The house is located on a nine rai area overlooking the Kwan (Lake) Phayao. It is composed of three golden teak houses; one big two-story house and two one-story houses to the east of the big one. It was built in 1922 during the reign of King Rama V and the house is of historical significance. It was once owned by a famous and wealthy nobleman, Luang Srinakharanukun. It has been a guest house of kings and noblemen who visited or were on official visits to the province in the past. The name of the house "The Suthaphat House" was given by Queen Indarasaksaji, the royal consort of King Rama VI.

The teak houses were beautifully constructed by professional carpenters from Shanghai, China. The most exquisite is the main house. Its roof is made from small planks of wood manually designed and polished until they look like concrete tiles. The door panes were exquisitely designed and carved. Each pillar was carved in the form of climbing ivy. Decorative wares and household utensils kept inside the house safe priceless and of architectural value.

2Wheels followed up and one of his Thai friends went in December 2013 to the Municipal Offices at Phayao and enquired about the future plans for the mansion beside the lake (Suthaphat House). "Why do you ask? There are no plans", was the dismissive reply.

Fast forward to last week when I was in Phayao and I had another quick peek at the mansion. It is still hiding behind a tall fence around the property but things are happening. It looks like that the roof has been re-done and the whole building has been spruced up and the golden teak wood mansion looks now like it probably was when it was built almost 100 years ago.

 

[Changnoi1]

Wow thanks Auke for the update on the Grand Old Lady. Is there somewhere a direct link to this info so I can use it on my travelblog?

 

[Lone Rider]

Wow thanks Auke for the update on the Grand Old Lady. Is there somewhere a direct link to this info so I can use it on my travelblog?

No, unless you can find the link to the PhD Thesis by Khun Prakabsiri Pakdeepinit (2007). I did do a quick search but nothing showed up. Anyway, I don't think that 2Wheels would object to you using the info on your blog.

 

[helbob]

Very nice culture pics Thaton is one of best places to start good tours to the border.