Day 1
*
Night train from Bangkok to Ubon. Started around 9am from Ubon to Chong Mek as the train was a couple of hours late.
Major road upgrade for the last single carriage way to the border. The road work is quite advanced on the Thai side.. Expect that will be finished by the end of the year. Lao side the road works goes about 9km in from the border..
*
No hassles at all with Customs and Immigration on the Thai and Lao side..
The Insurance is no longer available in the customs office.. This office has been changed around. You no longer walk inside to complete the paper work.. But do this through the little window. Customs are in the same location.
*
The check point 100 metres down the road on the right has had a little upgrade. They have a proper little building now.. Also in the same place.
*
Insurance now in Pakse and when I went there Saturday early afternoon it was closed.. Tried again Sunday morning and as expected closed.. so took off uninsured.. No insurance office to be found in Attapue.. We tried.. Then we saw an AGL sign in Sekong.. I went in after 8am the next day and the little desk was empty.. The local officials told me to go up the road.. This was another wild goose chase and there was nothing obvious to tell me AGL were in any of the buildings up the road.. I did see a AGL kiosk in Saravan.. but this stage could not be bothered as I only had two more days left…*
*
Basically it is very hard to get insurance no matter how hard you try.
*
Met up with Moto Rex in Pakse.. Checked in and a few sun downer beers on the hotel with the roof top bar. Nice local dinner and copious amounts of Beer Lao by the river.
*
Day 2
*
Started off early and followed the trails all the way along the Mekong. One Canoe crossing later (which felt like were were crossing the Pacific ocean) that wobbled half way through!!.. Then further on down and crossed to Don Khong..* Surprised to see so many roads with tarmac on Don Khong.. Stayed one night.
The locals had a good chat and loved seeing their pictures.. That magic box again :-)
Petrol station along the way.
The dodgy canoe crossing.. Thought we were going to end up in the Mekong...
Which dodgy bridge should we take ?
First real day of riding and I get a flat... again....
Squatting so we don't rock the boat...
Day 3.
*
Another Canoe to the mainland and a bit of a boring ride up the 13 to the Attapue turn off.. We planned to stay around the Eco Lodge but ended up staying there.. As we were early we crossed the road and made our way to the Ankor period temple and then found lots more wonky bridges and trails. Most of these not on the GPS or Paper map.. The kids looked scared to see us.. then we came out further up ahead on the 13 late lunch and then down to the Attapue turn off. Amazed how many guest houses have sprung up around this area.. Nice ride in to the Eco lodge. We ended up sharing a room as they had one place left and extra bed.. Nice food and relax with copious amounts of Beer Lao before tackling Route 18…
*
The sign says it all..
Day 4.
*
Route 18 to Attapue..
*
Really amazing ride.. This is the second time I have done this route.. Great fun with Moto Rex as we really worked well together to take pictures and video of each other ensuring we both had some nice memories of the ride.
*
Pleased to say that in mid January we made it all the way with out one canoe or ferry crossing.
First thing I did was to take a dive in the mud… Going through one of the mud bogs and didn’t see the long thick branch under the mud and it took out my front tyre.. Splash.. Very funny at the time I was not very happy.. Then down to the river and a bath for me and the bike..
*
One crossing it was a bit too deep in one spot.. The locals wanted to rip us off at 300,000 kip to carry the bikes over.. That just annoyed us.. don’t mind paying a fair price but this is highway robbery.. So after walking back and forth through the river for around 30 mins.. took all the gear off my bike and went for it.. Heard the exhaust bubbling a bit through the deeper spot.. upped the revs and got through OK.. Next Rex rode over like a true pro..
*Lots more small creeks and some mud to go through.. Then we arrived at the last really big crossing.. Already so wet from my bath earlier went for a walk across the river.. made it half way and then all the way.. Rex followed me over and said.. We can ride this… Do you want to.. It would be nice too.. and off we went.. Video to follow.
All the following are along Route 18
Love the reaction to that little magic box that shows them their picture.. Priceless.*
Heavy traffic on the 18..
After taking a dive in the mud..
Taking a bath in the next river to get the smelly mud off.
The river where they wanted to rip us off.. The deeper part is closer to the direction I am walking.
Checking the river path first.. as there are large rocks about that could easily tip you off if you hit them at the wrong angle.*
*
Then the rest of the ride to Attapue is pretty uneventful.. nice scenery of course..
Check in at an OK guest house run by Vietnamese.. very friendly staff..
*
Day 5
*
Lake Nong Fa.. Well what can I say.. Bit of a disappointment really.. sure it was nice when it was a real trail to get there.. but now the dirt road is steep in parts with nasty gravel in the thick dust. Standing up there looking at the lake 1,200 metres above sea level.. just looks like any other lake until you look behind yourself and see the peeks of the mountains..
*
Then the road back.. There is fuel at the entrance and exit only that I could see.. The KLX did it easy on one tank.
The best part was the highway from Attapue to the Vietnam border.. really lovely road.. winding, sweeping, up and down.. lovely..
*
One scare on the way there.. I am following Rex around this bend doing around 70 or 80 and I see Rex pull over to the far oncoming lane.. I can’t see anything but trust his judgment and follow.. in the lane to the right is a huge King Cobra half way across the road. really thick body we guessed around 7ft… By the time I get there the Cobra is rattled and rising to the striking position.. Rex also saw it in his mirror.. when I checked my mirrors it had done a u-turn and headed back the way it had come..
The way to Nong Fa
Lake Nong Fa
*
6.
Attapue / Paam to Sekong. Ride to Paam is uneventful.. The main road out of Paam towards Sekong is really lovely as you go further along.. then there a lots of road works going on.. still lovely scenery.. Then more single trail stuff through pine tree forests before we join up to the main road and road works again. Just over half way to Sekong and having ridden the most difficult part that will took the longest. ¾ down the mountain and trees all over the road.. Then a local turns up with limited English.. We start pulling the trees away as much as possible and plan to ride over the rest.. Rex goes for a walk down the road and said there is a bull dozer up above pushing rocks and soil on the road ahead.. So we all head down and run past the rocks.. They are moving half the mountain.. Road Closed.. The workers gestured No Go.. The local guy makes come calls and said the road will be open at 4pm..* Well OK.. we can still make it before dark so we wait.. The locals share their lunch and fruit with us and me my Fisherman’s friends for dessert…
*
About 3:30 the foreman comes over and our new friends are having a discussion.. The foreman said they need another hour.. I explained in Thai and the help of our new friends that we need to get to Sekong and don’t want to be stuck in the mountains in the dark… He let us go as we had dirt bikes.. Then the adventure begins..
We had to ride over the trees… made that..*
then ride through the rocks and soil sliding from the ridge above..
then ride over three big piles of soil in to a gully they had been blowing up the mountain rock..
The rocks looked so sharp you could have cut a steak with them.. Then the earth moving equipment made a slope for us to ride up out of the gully up to the next level.. Then the same thing again.. The next earth mover even pats down the earth for us before we ride up it.. Over one more large dirt mound then down to the other side and a lot of shocked faces looking at us riding through..
sadly no photos or video of this bit.. too busy concentrating on everything..
Arrived Sekong about 5:15.. 30 mins before sunset.
Next day Sekong to Tad Lo.. Lovely ride through the trails and a bit of exploring down smaller trails.
Stayed at Tad Lo for for 2 nights.. next day went to the bombed out bridge
The last day we rode through the middle of the Plateau up to Paksong.. Visited Mr Coffee in Paksong, stopped off at Tad Fan as Rex had not seen the waterfall there before.. Then down to Pakse for lunch with Lana before heading to the border and Ubon..
Made really good time.. Border to Ubon in 1 hr..
Below are various pics from the trip:-
Bridge 1
Bridge 2
Bridge 3
Alternative to the three bridges.. Muddy and deep..
Dust storm from a passing vehicle.
Sekong UXO Centre
Road to Sekong from Paam.
End of the trail.. 3 trees across the path and over grown..
The way we came
Don Khong
Another wonky bridge.
Angkor period ruins near the Attapue turn off
Trails around the Angkor period temple
Kids playing in the irrigation channel.
Don't remember running over that...
Eco Lodge Route 18
Elephants at the back of the Eco Lodge in the swamp.
Road to Sekong
Small village on the road to Sekong
Kids on the road to the bombed out bridge.
Back to Thailand
I lost track above after day 5.. But we were there for 9 days..
Will overlay the routes we took in Google Earth in another post.
Below link has all the picture for the die-hards that can't get enough ;-)
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.338943082796297.86683.100000418237810&type=1&l=48e323f251
Thanks to Moto Rex for being a great riding companion.. We really had a great trip.
Cheers
Brian
*
Night train from Bangkok to Ubon. Started around 9am from Ubon to Chong Mek as the train was a couple of hours late.
Major road upgrade for the last single carriage way to the border. The road work is quite advanced on the Thai side.. Expect that will be finished by the end of the year. Lao side the road works goes about 9km in from the border..
*
No hassles at all with Customs and Immigration on the Thai and Lao side..
The Insurance is no longer available in the customs office.. This office has been changed around. You no longer walk inside to complete the paper work.. But do this through the little window. Customs are in the same location.
*
The check point 100 metres down the road on the right has had a little upgrade. They have a proper little building now.. Also in the same place.
*
Insurance now in Pakse and when I went there Saturday early afternoon it was closed.. Tried again Sunday morning and as expected closed.. so took off uninsured.. No insurance office to be found in Attapue.. We tried.. Then we saw an AGL sign in Sekong.. I went in after 8am the next day and the little desk was empty.. The local officials told me to go up the road.. This was another wild goose chase and there was nothing obvious to tell me AGL were in any of the buildings up the road.. I did see a AGL kiosk in Saravan.. but this stage could not be bothered as I only had two more days left…*
*
Basically it is very hard to get insurance no matter how hard you try.
*
Met up with Moto Rex in Pakse.. Checked in and a few sun downer beers on the hotel with the roof top bar. Nice local dinner and copious amounts of Beer Lao by the river.
*
Day 2
*
Started off early and followed the trails all the way along the Mekong. One Canoe crossing later (which felt like were were crossing the Pacific ocean) that wobbled half way through!!.. Then further on down and crossed to Don Khong..* Surprised to see so many roads with tarmac on Don Khong.. Stayed one night.
The locals had a good chat and loved seeing their pictures.. That magic box again :-)
Petrol station along the way.
The dodgy canoe crossing.. Thought we were going to end up in the Mekong...
Which dodgy bridge should we take ?
First real day of riding and I get a flat... again....
Squatting so we don't rock the boat...
Day 3.
*
Another Canoe to the mainland and a bit of a boring ride up the 13 to the Attapue turn off.. We planned to stay around the Eco Lodge but ended up staying there.. As we were early we crossed the road and made our way to the Ankor period temple and then found lots more wonky bridges and trails. Most of these not on the GPS or Paper map.. The kids looked scared to see us.. then we came out further up ahead on the 13 late lunch and then down to the Attapue turn off. Amazed how many guest houses have sprung up around this area.. Nice ride in to the Eco lodge. We ended up sharing a room as they had one place left and extra bed.. Nice food and relax with copious amounts of Beer Lao before tackling Route 18…
*
The sign says it all..
Day 4.
*
Route 18 to Attapue..
*
Really amazing ride.. This is the second time I have done this route.. Great fun with Moto Rex as we really worked well together to take pictures and video of each other ensuring we both had some nice memories of the ride.
*
Pleased to say that in mid January we made it all the way with out one canoe or ferry crossing.
First thing I did was to take a dive in the mud… Going through one of the mud bogs and didn’t see the long thick branch under the mud and it took out my front tyre.. Splash.. Very funny at the time I was not very happy.. Then down to the river and a bath for me and the bike..
*
One crossing it was a bit too deep in one spot.. The locals wanted to rip us off at 300,000 kip to carry the bikes over.. That just annoyed us.. don’t mind paying a fair price but this is highway robbery.. So after walking back and forth through the river for around 30 mins.. took all the gear off my bike and went for it.. Heard the exhaust bubbling a bit through the deeper spot.. upped the revs and got through OK.. Next Rex rode over like a true pro..
*Lots more small creeks and some mud to go through.. Then we arrived at the last really big crossing.. Already so wet from my bath earlier went for a walk across the river.. made it half way and then all the way.. Rex followed me over and said.. We can ride this… Do you want to.. It would be nice too.. and off we went.. Video to follow.
All the following are along Route 18
Love the reaction to that little magic box that shows them their picture.. Priceless.*
Heavy traffic on the 18..
After taking a dive in the mud..
Taking a bath in the next river to get the smelly mud off.
The river where they wanted to rip us off.. The deeper part is closer to the direction I am walking.
Checking the river path first.. as there are large rocks about that could easily tip you off if you hit them at the wrong angle.*
*
Then the rest of the ride to Attapue is pretty uneventful.. nice scenery of course..
Check in at an OK guest house run by Vietnamese.. very friendly staff..
*
Day 5
*
Lake Nong Fa.. Well what can I say.. Bit of a disappointment really.. sure it was nice when it was a real trail to get there.. but now the dirt road is steep in parts with nasty gravel in the thick dust. Standing up there looking at the lake 1,200 metres above sea level.. just looks like any other lake until you look behind yourself and see the peeks of the mountains..
*
Then the road back.. There is fuel at the entrance and exit only that I could see.. The KLX did it easy on one tank.
The best part was the highway from Attapue to the Vietnam border.. really lovely road.. winding, sweeping, up and down.. lovely..
*
One scare on the way there.. I am following Rex around this bend doing around 70 or 80 and I see Rex pull over to the far oncoming lane.. I can’t see anything but trust his judgment and follow.. in the lane to the right is a huge King Cobra half way across the road. really thick body we guessed around 7ft… By the time I get there the Cobra is rattled and rising to the striking position.. Rex also saw it in his mirror.. when I checked my mirrors it had done a u-turn and headed back the way it had come..
The way to Nong Fa
Lake Nong Fa
*
6.
Attapue / Paam to Sekong. Ride to Paam is uneventful.. The main road out of Paam towards Sekong is really lovely as you go further along.. then there a lots of road works going on.. still lovely scenery.. Then more single trail stuff through pine tree forests before we join up to the main road and road works again. Just over half way to Sekong and having ridden the most difficult part that will took the longest. ¾ down the mountain and trees all over the road.. Then a local turns up with limited English.. We start pulling the trees away as much as possible and plan to ride over the rest.. Rex goes for a walk down the road and said there is a bull dozer up above pushing rocks and soil on the road ahead.. So we all head down and run past the rocks.. They are moving half the mountain.. Road Closed.. The workers gestured No Go.. The local guy makes come calls and said the road will be open at 4pm..* Well OK.. we can still make it before dark so we wait.. The locals share their lunch and fruit with us and me my Fisherman’s friends for dessert…
*
About 3:30 the foreman comes over and our new friends are having a discussion.. The foreman said they need another hour.. I explained in Thai and the help of our new friends that we need to get to Sekong and don’t want to be stuck in the mountains in the dark… He let us go as we had dirt bikes.. Then the adventure begins..
We had to ride over the trees… made that..*
then ride through the rocks and soil sliding from the ridge above..
then ride over three big piles of soil in to a gully they had been blowing up the mountain rock..
The rocks looked so sharp you could have cut a steak with them.. Then the earth moving equipment made a slope for us to ride up out of the gully up to the next level.. Then the same thing again.. The next earth mover even pats down the earth for us before we ride up it.. Over one more large dirt mound then down to the other side and a lot of shocked faces looking at us riding through..
sadly no photos or video of this bit.. too busy concentrating on everything..
Arrived Sekong about 5:15.. 30 mins before sunset.
Next day Sekong to Tad Lo.. Lovely ride through the trails and a bit of exploring down smaller trails.
Stayed at Tad Lo for for 2 nights.. next day went to the bombed out bridge
The last day we rode through the middle of the Plateau up to Paksong.. Visited Mr Coffee in Paksong, stopped off at Tad Fan as Rex had not seen the waterfall there before.. Then down to Pakse for lunch with Lana before heading to the border and Ubon..
Made really good time.. Border to Ubon in 1 hr..
Below are various pics from the trip:-
Bridge 1
Bridge 2
Bridge 3
Alternative to the three bridges.. Muddy and deep..
Dust storm from a passing vehicle.
Sekong UXO Centre
Road to Sekong from Paam.
End of the trail.. 3 trees across the path and over grown..
The way we came
Don Khong
Another wonky bridge.
Angkor period ruins near the Attapue turn off
Trails around the Angkor period temple
Kids playing in the irrigation channel.
Don't remember running over that...
Eco Lodge Route 18
Elephants at the back of the Eco Lodge in the swamp.
Road to Sekong
Small village on the road to Sekong
Kids on the road to the bombed out bridge.
Back to Thailand
I lost track above after day 5.. But we were there for 9 days..
Will overlay the routes we took in Google Earth in another post.
Below link has all the picture for the die-hards that can't get enough ;-)
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.338943082796297.86683.100000418237810&type=1&l=48e323f251
Thanks to Moto Rex for being a great riding companion.. We really had a great trip.
Cheers
Brian
