Day 1, Luang Prabang to Phonsavan via roads nr 13 and nr 7 - I did this trip with two guys who had never ridden before in Laos so we decided to start with a few days on the road and then doing the off road stuff during the 2nd part of the trip.
Road 13 is the main road between Vientiane and Luang Prabang so the road surface is slick and slippery in places but otherwise great to ride because of the never ending turns, road 13 is quieter and in better condition, the ride took us about 5 hours.
Day 2, Phonsavan to Vieng Thong via roads nr 7, 6 and 1C – road 7 to Muang Kham is a good tarmac road through the country side and road 6 to Phou Lao is even better as you go into the mountains via endless turns, in general good road surface.
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At Phou Lao we turned left on to road 1C to Vieng Thong, again all tamac in good condition and great views, this day we were for about 6 hours on the bike.
Day 3, Vieng Thong to Luang Prabang via roads 1C and a dirt road without number – From Vieng Thong we continued along 1C in a westerly direction and after about 100 km you can take a left turn which puts you on a dirt road towards Pak Xeng and eventually Luang Prabang.
The first section from the turn off to Pak Xeng is one of the best roads in Laos in my opinion, your ride along the top of the mountains almost like on top of the world’s roof with stunning views. Compared to last year this section was now much easier as the surface had been graded and widened, lets just hope they wait with paving it…
The road slowly winds it’s way down to Pak Xeng where you follow the road along the river which eventually links up with higway 13 to Luang Prabang.
The section along the river used to be nice and quiet but within a year’s time has now changed into one huge road construction site, at certain places the road has been widened to almost 4 lanes wide which obviously has ruined it’s previous charm, it was still all unpaved but that wont take long I am afraid.
This day took us about 7 hours.
Day 4, Luang Prabang to Xayaboury via roads 4B and 4A– This day started with taking the ferry In Luang Prabang across the Mekong on to road 4B, this roads was still greatly unchanged compared to last year hence great off-road riding with a couple of water crossings where the water was bloody cold but never deeper than about half a meter.
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The last 20 km before you hit road 4A between Hongsa and Xayabouri was now graded and therefore easier than last year when it was still very rutted.
At the end of 4B we turned left on the tarmac road towards Xayabouri, this road is in good condition with great scenery, we arrived at Xayabouri after about 7 hours of riding.
Day 5, Xayaboury to Viang Vien via road 4, a new mountain road and road 13 – We headed north out of Xayaboury along the now paved road number 4 until we hit the river after about 30 km to take the Tha Duea ferry across. The new bridge is making good progress and could well be finished by the end of 2013.
On the other side your are back on road 4 which is being graded and paved right now up to Muang Nan, after Muang Nan the road becomes a 2 lane rocky dirt road.
About 12 km after Muang Nan you can turn right onto a new road which leads across the mountains to Kasi, the first section is already paved and with no traffic almost like a race track up the mountain, eventually however the paved section stops and you hit the area where the Chinese construction company which makes the road is busy moving earth and grading the road, all is good rideable even on a road bike and will improve over time as the Chinese get on with the job.
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This road is really worthwhile as it goes over a 2000 meter high mountain range with amazing views, ride it now before the tourist buses clog the road…
At Kasi you hit road 13 and turn right to Vang Vien and although this is the main road it is still nice to ride as soon you get the nice mountain scenery around Vang Vieng in view.
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Day 6, Vang Vien to Vientiane via road 13 - this was our last day and we had to bring the rental bikes back before 5pm so we just took the main road back, upto Hin Hoep road 13 is actually still quite nice to ride but the last stretch in to Vientiane is a bit boring and of course getting busier as your near Vientiane.
Conclusion – we had a great 6 days on the road without any incidents or breakdowns covering about 1700 km, I was on my KTM 690 Enduro and the two other guys rode 2012 Honda 250 CRF’s rented form Jules Classics in Vientiane, it was their first time ever in Laos but had no problems whatsoever with the local conditions even without having any previous off-road experience.
The Honda’s performed well but only managed about 170 km out of a tank so refueling stops needed to be planned carefully, the KTM gets easily 250 km out of tank so I rode mostly the whole day on just one tank.
With only 140 kg and 70 hp the KTM of course flies uphill whereas the Honda with also 140 kg but only 20 hp needs to be worked hard to get up the mountain but always managed.
Clearly Laos is now a country in quick progress, construction of new buildings and roads can be seen everywhere but the people are still as laid-back and friendly as ever which still makes it a great country to explore.
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Road 13 is the main road between Vientiane and Luang Prabang so the road surface is slick and slippery in places but otherwise great to ride because of the never ending turns, road 13 is quieter and in better condition, the ride took us about 5 hours.
Day 2, Phonsavan to Vieng Thong via roads nr 7, 6 and 1C – road 7 to Muang Kham is a good tarmac road through the country side and road 6 to Phou Lao is even better as you go into the mountains via endless turns, in general good road surface.
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At Phou Lao we turned left on to road 1C to Vieng Thong, again all tamac in good condition and great views, this day we were for about 6 hours on the bike.
Day 3, Vieng Thong to Luang Prabang via roads 1C and a dirt road without number – From Vieng Thong we continued along 1C in a westerly direction and after about 100 km you can take a left turn which puts you on a dirt road towards Pak Xeng and eventually Luang Prabang.
The first section from the turn off to Pak Xeng is one of the best roads in Laos in my opinion, your ride along the top of the mountains almost like on top of the world’s roof with stunning views. Compared to last year this section was now much easier as the surface had been graded and widened, lets just hope they wait with paving it…
The road slowly winds it’s way down to Pak Xeng where you follow the road along the river which eventually links up with higway 13 to Luang Prabang.
The section along the river used to be nice and quiet but within a year’s time has now changed into one huge road construction site, at certain places the road has been widened to almost 4 lanes wide which obviously has ruined it’s previous charm, it was still all unpaved but that wont take long I am afraid.
This day took us about 7 hours.
Day 4, Luang Prabang to Xayaboury via roads 4B and 4A– This day started with taking the ferry In Luang Prabang across the Mekong on to road 4B, this roads was still greatly unchanged compared to last year hence great off-road riding with a couple of water crossings where the water was bloody cold but never deeper than about half a meter.
View attachment 14006
The last 20 km before you hit road 4A between Hongsa and Xayabouri was now graded and therefore easier than last year when it was still very rutted.
At the end of 4B we turned left on the tarmac road towards Xayabouri, this road is in good condition with great scenery, we arrived at Xayabouri after about 7 hours of riding.
Day 5, Xayaboury to Viang Vien via road 4, a new mountain road and road 13 – We headed north out of Xayaboury along the now paved road number 4 until we hit the river after about 30 km to take the Tha Duea ferry across. The new bridge is making good progress and could well be finished by the end of 2013.
On the other side your are back on road 4 which is being graded and paved right now up to Muang Nan, after Muang Nan the road becomes a 2 lane rocky dirt road.
About 12 km after Muang Nan you can turn right onto a new road which leads across the mountains to Kasi, the first section is already paved and with no traffic almost like a race track up the mountain, eventually however the paved section stops and you hit the area where the Chinese construction company which makes the road is busy moving earth and grading the road, all is good rideable even on a road bike and will improve over time as the Chinese get on with the job.
View attachment 14005
This road is really worthwhile as it goes over a 2000 meter high mountain range with amazing views, ride it now before the tourist buses clog the road…
At Kasi you hit road 13 and turn right to Vang Vien and although this is the main road it is still nice to ride as soon you get the nice mountain scenery around Vang Vieng in view.
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Day 6, Vang Vien to Vientiane via road 13 - this was our last day and we had to bring the rental bikes back before 5pm so we just took the main road back, upto Hin Hoep road 13 is actually still quite nice to ride but the last stretch in to Vientiane is a bit boring and of course getting busier as your near Vientiane.
Conclusion – we had a great 6 days on the road without any incidents or breakdowns covering about 1700 km, I was on my KTM 690 Enduro and the two other guys rode 2012 Honda 250 CRF’s rented form Jules Classics in Vientiane, it was their first time ever in Laos but had no problems whatsoever with the local conditions even without having any previous off-road experience.
The Honda’s performed well but only managed about 170 km out of a tank so refueling stops needed to be planned carefully, the KTM gets easily 250 km out of tank so I rode mostly the whole day on just one tank.
With only 140 kg and 70 hp the KTM of course flies uphill whereas the Honda with also 140 kg but only 20 hp needs to be worked hard to get up the mountain but always managed.
Clearly Laos is now a country in quick progress, construction of new buildings and roads can be seen everywhere but the people are still as laid-back and friendly as ever which still makes it a great country to explore.
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