Gingerkitten
New member
Rainy season 7 days, 6 nights ride report! (4th-10th July 2020) Versys 650. Sorry for the super long post.
My first semi solo ride. Which explains some of my bad choices on roads since I was just chasing road numbers. I posted about a trip I was going to do, ended up doing it counterclockwise instead and changing my plans on a whim.
Total distance: 2,535km
Day 1: Chiang Mai to Sukhothai
300km [6.30 am to 12pm]
Roads: 106 - 1033 - 1184 - 1274 - 106 - 1048 - 1327 - 1113 - 1272
Hotel: SakSuksmile hotel (800 baht)
There were bits of construction between the 106 and the 1033. Had to take a slight detour to go around it. But I am absolutely in love with the 1033 to the 1184. Wouldn't expect how gorgeous and fun those curves were. The last stretch into Sukhothai was mind numbing boring. Excluding that, normal day ride. Got in before the rain though it rained for 3 hours and left me starving.
Hotel is modern, pretty and close to the historical park. The biggest issue for my tiny legs was parking. It is one of those rock pebble roads. I actually got struck trying to move my bike down and hotel staff came out to help me.. Lovely place.
Day 2: Sukhothai - Phu Tub Berk
490km [6.30am -5pm]
Roads 12 - 2372 - 2331 [Twice!]
Hotel: Baan Suan Yai Saee (650 baht)
It was drizzling when I woke up to go. So I put on my rain gear and went for it, it was a mostly straight road after all. It turned into a proper rain during the 70km so was a little worried if it would rained as I did Khao Kho and Phu Tub Berk. But lady luck was on my side. Just as I got to the PTT below Khao Kho, the sun was shining, the roads were dry and it was perfect riding weather. Only problem was the people. So many people.. Khao Kho wasn't as fun as I remembered it. Could be because of the amount of people, the last bit was fantastic but got ruined with people. Since I got disappointed on Khao Kho, I did Nam Nao national park twice. There and back, just for the fun of it. Almost ran out of gas. But I really love the road. All those turns!
Phu Thub Berk was just as I imagined it. F**king fun to ride. There were so many riders too.. It was sketchy, dangerous and many hair pins.. But absolutely breathtaking. A must do. And beyond that is the national park. It is dual pricing for foreigners at 500 baht. I got in with 60 baht and could reuse my ticket. =) There is almost no one here and it is a gorgeous national park with very nice curves and a beautiful viewpoint. =) At this viewpoint was where I met some BMW riders who invited me along to another viewpoint where I couldn't quite park my bike. So they offered to help me with parking. We hiked like 10 mins to another place where literally the scene is stunning. They were really nice guys. =) Rode down 2331 together and then I tried to find my little hotel.
The hotel is hidden away so you have to look for it. But very lovely people who ensured that I was comfortable. Moo Kata can be delivered directly to your bungalow too!
Day 3: Phu Tub Berk - Loei - Phitsanulok
470k. [6.30am - 6pm]
Roads: 2372 - 3013 - 2331 - 2013 - 21
21 - 3013 - 2331 - 12
Hotel: Le Parc Wangnang [950 baht]
This was quite a journey of doubling back. I had a plan to stay in Loei, but that changed when I got a message from Ed and offered to meet up. I actually doubled bavk again because I was told the 2372 was a nice road. It was OK.. So I got bored and decided to do Phu Tub Berk again, to see if I could go into Loei. So back through the park the second time.. =D That was an epic road! However, I got 50km to Loei at around 11am and wasn't quite sure what to do with myself. I was still uncertain of the plan with Ed and his friend if we were meeting up. So I ended up sitting in a cafe contemplating my next move. I was invited to a table with 2 different motorcycle Thai groups. So lovely who recommended me to stay in Chiang Kam, which I was debating when I got the message to meet up with Ed and co. Hence, I doubled back to Phu tub Berk as they wanted to do that road.
They ended up on the wrong road and I had to wait an extra hour.. Once again, on the 2331 to the point where the park ranger recognized me. =P Decided to go to Phitsanulok and we all raced there. Mike hit a chicken. =P My first day of riding with other people. It was a good test of my abilities.
Hotel was simple with a wet bathroom and also the last 3 rooms. It is a good stopover. =)
Day 4 [Phitsanulok to Nan]
430km [8-3.30pm]
11 - 1246 - 4009 - 1163 - 1045 - 11 - 101 - 1134 - 4010 - 1026 - 101
Hotel: Nan Nakara Boutique hotel [1,235 baht]
What an interesting day. The first and last day whereby I leave at the crack of dawn. It was a solo ride as the duo wanted to go back to Chiang Mai after 15 days on the road.
I was determined to do Bo Klue so I knew I had to get closer. It would have been too easy to go straight to Nan but I wanted a challenge. Consulted google and went for the curvy road! The 1163. It was a bad bad idea. Pure dirt and I couldn't do it. Had to back track 30km back to the main highway.
I did have a blast on the 11 thought. Pissed me a little that I had to double. So I consulted Google again and found another road. The 4010. I am in freaking love with this road. I would do it again and again despite it just being a detour that doesn't get me closer to where I need to be but love it. =) You had to make a detour going to this road due to some construction at the beginning.
This was where I met up with some other riders and had dinner with them. It was good being social again. =) Made a plan to go riding with one of the riders as they have never done Bo klue before.
Nan nakara boutique hotel is gorgeous and so lovely. There was so much room, I was confused with it. It is nice, modern and very beautiful.. Made me very happy to stay there.
Day 5 [ Nan - Chiang Kam]
289 km (11am - 6.30pm)
Roads: 1169 - 1081 - 1333 - 1256 - 101 - 1148
Hotel: Chiang Kham Grand View [2,100 baht]
I was mostly excited for this day because there were so many roads which I had wanted to do. I was recommend to try 1333. It is not a grest road like with tarmac but it was a cool route. With some spectacular views of the roads ahead. Not easy thought. Just road with some hard dirt. But good view. I would say if there was a choice the 1256 is better. Cool experience though.. The 1148 is fun like always but do watch out for the construction bits and the gravel on the road.
We did leave late on that day hence didn't make it to Phayao. Instead made it to the sleepy little town of Chiang Kam. Met Ivo on this day too. =)
Hotel was not that great. Not quite worth the price, but just wanted to relax after a difficult day of riding..
Day 6 [Chiang Kam to Chiang Rai]
295km (10am to 5 pm)
Roads: 1148 - 4010 - 1093 - 1155 - 1020
Hotel: Mora Boutique Hotel [ 1,830 baht]
Back to solo riding today as I was chasing roads.. The 1093 to Phu Chee Fah is not worth it. 60% of it was under construction and not nice construction. Lots of gravel, rocky roads and bad roads. When it was great, it was great on tarmac with some marvelous sights. But until the roads are done and tarmac, I won't do it again.. I did managed to go up to one view point where the mountain next to me is basically Laos. On the map, I was in Laos. =P
Managed to up to the Mekong and back down since I wanted to do the 1155. At this point, I just wanted the fastest way to Chiang Rai. I was exhausted and tired from the 1093.
Hotel is bloody awesome! I am more than beyond pleased with it. It is gorgeous, the staff is really attentive. They ensured my stay is amazing. Definitely wished I had a partner to enjoy that beautiful hotel. =)
Day 7 [ Chiang Rai - Chiang Mai]
261km (12pm - 6pm)
Roads: 1207 - 4044 - 1089 - 107 - 1414 - 1001
What a stupid and scary adventure today.. On my crazy quest for twisty roads, I found the 4044. I thought it would be a lot of fun, how very wrong I was. The road follows a river and it looked so beautiful in the beginning. The road just kept changing. Tarmac to paved road to road to gravel road to rocky roads and to pure dirt.. I made a mistake. I was so scared on this road, I was alone with the wrong tyres on Greenie. It was so remote, I passed no one for a long time and went through 2 Karen villages with no signs. I even went through a little river and stream. Too much for me. In the end, on a 35% incline, I fell as my back tyres fell into a ditch and I toppled. I thought I was done for. But within 10 mins, some locals came over to help me. Took 4 people to push Greenie back up. I had already ridden 30km in dirt. I was exhausted and scared.
In the end, a local with a baby strapped to his chest rode Greenie for 1 km through the worse of the road. I hitched a ride with a wave and then finished off the 1km over mud and close to a cliff by myself. Remember, google can be right. It said 60km for 2.5 hours. Means it will be difficult.
In the end, I just wanted from get home. I was tired and scared. I went through the 1089 and the 107. But with all the construction, I would have rather done the 118- 1150 - 1001. But it was what it was. I had an adventure and was super happy to be home.
I might have missed some points so if there are any questions, feel free to message and ask me. =D That is all for my very very long post.. =D The facebook post has more pictures as uploading pictures one at a time is a pain. Feel free to check out the facebook post to see more pictures of the road, my trip and the hotels. =)
In the end, the next day, I went for a basic dirt course at Honda. I was told the 4044 was where they take their experienced dirt riders.. And Greenie did it. It was quite an adventure indeed. Also, Honda is planning an adventure bike dirt course. The instructor demonstrated what I could do if I ever have an adventure bike on the dirt again. I would totally recommend it when they come out!
My first semi solo ride. Which explains some of my bad choices on roads since I was just chasing road numbers. I posted about a trip I was going to do, ended up doing it counterclockwise instead and changing my plans on a whim.
Total distance: 2,535km
Day 1: Chiang Mai to Sukhothai
300km [6.30 am to 12pm]
Roads: 106 - 1033 - 1184 - 1274 - 106 - 1048 - 1327 - 1113 - 1272
Hotel: SakSuksmile hotel (800 baht)
There were bits of construction between the 106 and the 1033. Had to take a slight detour to go around it. But I am absolutely in love with the 1033 to the 1184. Wouldn't expect how gorgeous and fun those curves were. The last stretch into Sukhothai was mind numbing boring. Excluding that, normal day ride. Got in before the rain though it rained for 3 hours and left me starving.
Hotel is modern, pretty and close to the historical park. The biggest issue for my tiny legs was parking. It is one of those rock pebble roads. I actually got struck trying to move my bike down and hotel staff came out to help me.. Lovely place.
Day 2: Sukhothai - Phu Tub Berk
490km [6.30am -5pm]
Roads 12 - 2372 - 2331 [Twice!]
Hotel: Baan Suan Yai Saee (650 baht)
It was drizzling when I woke up to go. So I put on my rain gear and went for it, it was a mostly straight road after all. It turned into a proper rain during the 70km so was a little worried if it would rained as I did Khao Kho and Phu Tub Berk. But lady luck was on my side. Just as I got to the PTT below Khao Kho, the sun was shining, the roads were dry and it was perfect riding weather. Only problem was the people. So many people.. Khao Kho wasn't as fun as I remembered it. Could be because of the amount of people, the last bit was fantastic but got ruined with people. Since I got disappointed on Khao Kho, I did Nam Nao national park twice. There and back, just for the fun of it. Almost ran out of gas. But I really love the road. All those turns!
Phu Thub Berk was just as I imagined it. F**king fun to ride. There were so many riders too.. It was sketchy, dangerous and many hair pins.. But absolutely breathtaking. A must do. And beyond that is the national park. It is dual pricing for foreigners at 500 baht. I got in with 60 baht and could reuse my ticket. =) There is almost no one here and it is a gorgeous national park with very nice curves and a beautiful viewpoint. =) At this viewpoint was where I met some BMW riders who invited me along to another viewpoint where I couldn't quite park my bike. So they offered to help me with parking. We hiked like 10 mins to another place where literally the scene is stunning. They were really nice guys. =) Rode down 2331 together and then I tried to find my little hotel.
The hotel is hidden away so you have to look for it. But very lovely people who ensured that I was comfortable. Moo Kata can be delivered directly to your bungalow too!
Day 3: Phu Tub Berk - Loei - Phitsanulok
470k. [6.30am - 6pm]
Roads: 2372 - 3013 - 2331 - 2013 - 21
21 - 3013 - 2331 - 12
Hotel: Le Parc Wangnang [950 baht]
This was quite a journey of doubling back. I had a plan to stay in Loei, but that changed when I got a message from Ed and offered to meet up. I actually doubled bavk again because I was told the 2372 was a nice road. It was OK.. So I got bored and decided to do Phu Tub Berk again, to see if I could go into Loei. So back through the park the second time.. =D That was an epic road! However, I got 50km to Loei at around 11am and wasn't quite sure what to do with myself. I was still uncertain of the plan with Ed and his friend if we were meeting up. So I ended up sitting in a cafe contemplating my next move. I was invited to a table with 2 different motorcycle Thai groups. So lovely who recommended me to stay in Chiang Kam, which I was debating when I got the message to meet up with Ed and co. Hence, I doubled back to Phu tub Berk as they wanted to do that road.
They ended up on the wrong road and I had to wait an extra hour.. Once again, on the 2331 to the point where the park ranger recognized me. =P Decided to go to Phitsanulok and we all raced there. Mike hit a chicken. =P My first day of riding with other people. It was a good test of my abilities.
Hotel was simple with a wet bathroom and also the last 3 rooms. It is a good stopover. =)
Day 4 [Phitsanulok to Nan]
430km [8-3.30pm]
11 - 1246 - 4009 - 1163 - 1045 - 11 - 101 - 1134 - 4010 - 1026 - 101
Hotel: Nan Nakara Boutique hotel [1,235 baht]
What an interesting day. The first and last day whereby I leave at the crack of dawn. It was a solo ride as the duo wanted to go back to Chiang Mai after 15 days on the road.
I was determined to do Bo Klue so I knew I had to get closer. It would have been too easy to go straight to Nan but I wanted a challenge. Consulted google and went for the curvy road! The 1163. It was a bad bad idea. Pure dirt and I couldn't do it. Had to back track 30km back to the main highway.
I did have a blast on the 11 thought. Pissed me a little that I had to double. So I consulted Google again and found another road. The 4010. I am in freaking love with this road. I would do it again and again despite it just being a detour that doesn't get me closer to where I need to be but love it. =) You had to make a detour going to this road due to some construction at the beginning.
This was where I met up with some other riders and had dinner with them. It was good being social again. =) Made a plan to go riding with one of the riders as they have never done Bo klue before.
Nan nakara boutique hotel is gorgeous and so lovely. There was so much room, I was confused with it. It is nice, modern and very beautiful.. Made me very happy to stay there.
Day 5 [ Nan - Chiang Kam]
289 km (11am - 6.30pm)
Roads: 1169 - 1081 - 1333 - 1256 - 101 - 1148
Hotel: Chiang Kham Grand View [2,100 baht]
I was mostly excited for this day because there were so many roads which I had wanted to do. I was recommend to try 1333. It is not a grest road like with tarmac but it was a cool route. With some spectacular views of the roads ahead. Not easy thought. Just road with some hard dirt. But good view. I would say if there was a choice the 1256 is better. Cool experience though.. The 1148 is fun like always but do watch out for the construction bits and the gravel on the road.
We did leave late on that day hence didn't make it to Phayao. Instead made it to the sleepy little town of Chiang Kam. Met Ivo on this day too. =)
Hotel was not that great. Not quite worth the price, but just wanted to relax after a difficult day of riding..
Day 6 [Chiang Kam to Chiang Rai]
295km (10am to 5 pm)
Roads: 1148 - 4010 - 1093 - 1155 - 1020
Hotel: Mora Boutique Hotel [ 1,830 baht]
Back to solo riding today as I was chasing roads.. The 1093 to Phu Chee Fah is not worth it. 60% of it was under construction and not nice construction. Lots of gravel, rocky roads and bad roads. When it was great, it was great on tarmac with some marvelous sights. But until the roads are done and tarmac, I won't do it again.. I did managed to go up to one view point where the mountain next to me is basically Laos. On the map, I was in Laos. =P
Managed to up to the Mekong and back down since I wanted to do the 1155. At this point, I just wanted the fastest way to Chiang Rai. I was exhausted and tired from the 1093.
Hotel is bloody awesome! I am more than beyond pleased with it. It is gorgeous, the staff is really attentive. They ensured my stay is amazing. Definitely wished I had a partner to enjoy that beautiful hotel. =)
Day 7 [ Chiang Rai - Chiang Mai]
261km (12pm - 6pm)
Roads: 1207 - 4044 - 1089 - 107 - 1414 - 1001
What a stupid and scary adventure today.. On my crazy quest for twisty roads, I found the 4044. I thought it would be a lot of fun, how very wrong I was. The road follows a river and it looked so beautiful in the beginning. The road just kept changing. Tarmac to paved road to road to gravel road to rocky roads and to pure dirt.. I made a mistake. I was so scared on this road, I was alone with the wrong tyres on Greenie. It was so remote, I passed no one for a long time and went through 2 Karen villages with no signs. I even went through a little river and stream. Too much for me. In the end, on a 35% incline, I fell as my back tyres fell into a ditch and I toppled. I thought I was done for. But within 10 mins, some locals came over to help me. Took 4 people to push Greenie back up. I had already ridden 30km in dirt. I was exhausted and scared.
In the end, a local with a baby strapped to his chest rode Greenie for 1 km through the worse of the road. I hitched a ride with a wave and then finished off the 1km over mud and close to a cliff by myself. Remember, google can be right. It said 60km for 2.5 hours. Means it will be difficult.
In the end, I just wanted from get home. I was tired and scared. I went through the 1089 and the 107. But with all the construction, I would have rather done the 118- 1150 - 1001. But it was what it was. I had an adventure and was super happy to be home.
I might have missed some points so if there are any questions, feel free to message and ask me. =D That is all for my very very long post.. =D The facebook post has more pictures as uploading pictures one at a time is a pain. Feel free to check out the facebook post to see more pictures of the road, my trip and the hotels. =)
In the end, the next day, I went for a basic dirt course at Honda. I was told the 4044 was where they take their experienced dirt riders.. And Greenie did it. It was quite an adventure indeed. Also, Honda is planning an adventure bike dirt course. The instructor demonstrated what I could do if I ever have an adventure bike on the dirt again. I would totally recommend it when they come out!
