Phongsali: Muang Khoa - Samphan - Boun Tai - Oudomxai

Shane

Active member
Joined
May 25, 2019
Location
Chiang Mai
Bikes
Honda Africa Twin, Honda CRF250L
Long day’s ride in Phongsali Province Laos ??: from Muang Khoa - Samphan - Boun Tai - Udomxai

Lovely ride along the Nam Ou river. Passed dam number 4 outside Muang Khoa and it’s big brother dam number 5 at Samphan. From there it was a boat crossing to the trail leading to Boun Tai. It’s a very remote area and there were some very surprised villagers seeing me rock up. The look on their faces was as if a spaceship had landed! Lol The boat driver told me that there’s only about 2 falangs on bikes per week through that area.

Absolutely lovely ride from Boun Tai to Udomxai on the tarmac road. Nice chilled out way to finish the day.

2CD09DB3-3891-4F09-9B29-CB30A897E0D7.jpeg

I arrived in Muang Khoa Having taken the off road trail from Nong Khiaw. I arrived early so rode around for a bit checking out the town. It’s nicely situated along the Nam Ou river.

79F172FA-6344-4C3E-B827-F77F5F574655.jpeg

0649CA66-4848-41BA-9CA0-DCD094BEE614.jpeg

6B3D077E-D9D5-4FC3-9191-015452C35B1D.jpeg

5FB5EB62-4723-4D7C-9C02-456DE9E02EE1.jpeg

C5534C90-A853-41FE-B783-96EEA4A7C5CF.jpeg

This is the view of Muang Khoa from the road leading to Samphan (which I would take the following day)

D191ACF9-7A72-4AED-A534-830008FD70F7.jpeg

A beautiful sunset.... with a view of the Nam Ou hydroelectric plant 4.

1E1EE736-07EC-4C4E-A7CB-91D4E0C7DB2E.jpeg

2A9277EE-0F21-4868-9ED5-C78BA97C4849.jpeg

The next morning I set off early on the trail following the Nam Ou river to the town of Samphan. First stop off was at the Dam for a few more pics. It looks like it’s almost ready for operations.

8025E327-C70A-4237-8411-ECFB06FCB0C6.jpeg

43984AC4-4CD4-4DAE-A186-E48B321118A9.jpeg

After the dam there are some lovely views of the river surrounded by the mountains. The trail is well graded and pretty easy.

I did also note a trail that appeared to be freshly cut on the opposite bank. I didn’t see this marked on any map so perhaps it’s new. It appeared to go most of the way to Samphan but there was a few places that I couldn’t see it. I guess that can be explored another time.

01D098FD-605F-4B5F-A480-38E4779774C2.jpeg

E7ED6FC2-42C9-4226-80D6-734C7EC51D7C.jpeg

A bridge that looks like it’s been under construction for a while but never been finished.

C0E0BDFA-D5CA-4929-BE94-F024CB7619FB.jpeg


7A7A552B-1BB5-4FBC-B0BC-865791E152DE.jpeg

After the town of Samphan I came accriss the big brother of the previous dam. This one is the Nam Ou hydroelectric Dam 5. This is where the road ends.... kind of

9E2AB862-1631-4047-8DE7-CA81872B3D04.jpeg


6FEAEE3B-FDF2-40D8-8C96-75A8648B2BCB.jpeg


C2B037DC-E0BE-425B-85C2-5EBD6873E03E.jpeg


A7B5295E-6ED2-4C6E-8317-84F18D83414E.jpeg

The nice graded road ended and the boat crossing begins.

The boat driver wasn’t exactly a master photographer. It took him a few attempts and the below pic was the best he could do. His finger is only blocking out the dam anyway.

At least he was a better boat driver than photographer. I got to the other side with no problems.

6348FDB0-9EE4-4500-A3C3-668F9A352294.jpeg


5C42ED91-5A04-410B-83A8-01A9D0E30316.jpeg


7CA7961E-4B99-4539-A3D2-F107E54ADC62.jpeg


68C0F609-479D-4BFE-8297-8129D299A159.jpeg

Once at the other side, I was really in the middle of nowhere. The trail was still nice as it was dry.

571414B6-DB0D-45DF-8F9E-8963DEF3246D.jpeg

Some cool views of the reservoir from up in the hills on the other side of the dam.

CD9962EB-406E-4A15-A580-7F51D3E398DE.jpeg

7063AE8D-59C5-4A46-995F-23C8AFB68089.jpeg

F16CDFC4-68AB-4DD6-820C-52F90B3EA7CA.jpeg



It certainly is a very remote region. There were only a few very primitive villages in the region. I only came across a handful of locals on bikes in the several hours that I spent on the trail.

8D074857-8DD3-4C9A-954D-A6929B19B0D3.jpeg

CE4F9D7A-0FC2-493D-94FB-BCC5D58BE199.jpeg

B599B2BD-1486-4348-B794-D62845735CD2.jpeg

65F94F3C-452C-41AD-8EE2-CEC695C975C2.jpeg

3C3A75E1-4EDC-4EC5-8891-BFFD70371B19.jpeg

This one village seemed to be hacked right out of the mountain. Pretty cool.

5A9D63E0-4335-49FD-98A5-99B2888C3C94.jpeg


7157CA20-76F9-479A-A447-B583E2559FFE.jpeg


EB26CAA1-DD1A-436C-9675-61D2250BB595.jpegE

I spent several hours getting from the far side of the dam to Boun Tai. I pretty much had the trail all to myself. There was stunning scenery and some very surprised villagers.

Once I popped out on the main road I headed for Oudomxai. I still had a couple of hours left to go but it was nice to finish up the day cruising along on some easy tarmac. The views along this road were really nice going over the mountains and following the river to the town of Oudomxai.

Overall it was a very long day but well worth it in terms of the ride and the scenery.
 
Nice report and great pictures Shane, it is indeed one of the prettiest parts of Laos to explore on a dirt bike, long may it remain so.
 
Nice report and great pictures Shane, it is indeed one of the prettiest parts of Laos to explore on a dirt bike, long may it remain so.

Yep, it sure is. It doesn't look like there's much development going on there, so it should be good for a while yet :)
 

This was a good time before the Chinese start to destroi Laos. A trip on a boat from Phonsaly ( 5 hours ) Too Muang Khoua was always great. This is gone and many other parts of laos is the same now.
 

This was a good time before the Chinese start to destroi Laos. A trip on a boat from Phonsaly ( 5 hours ) Too Muang Khoua was always great. This is gone and many other parts of laos is the same now.
Hey mate, I actually watched this video before I traveled to Laos! Lol

I tried to do a similar boat trip as you from Hat Sa to the dam At Samphan. I couldn’t take by bike on the boat because the boat was too small. Only small passenger boats can go down the river due to the low water levels caused by the upstream dams. Pity because it looks really cool in your video.A56E0650-C826-4BB2-ABFA-15E8081605D6.jpeg854C5878-F5C4-4A6F-86BA-9F15E18697F2.jpegA8E5EF19-EF7C-4C05-B8A7-0BA4AD795AB0.jpeg7AAD5C11-8565-412C-942A-C936CAAF26BA.jpeg4231BEBB-6646-43DF-8212-5EC2A2EF6F9C.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • CF7DE5A2-4C40-4BCB-9AD8-DB4D2ADDCD64.jpeg
    CF7DE5A2-4C40-4BCB-9AD8-DB4D2ADDCD64.jpeg
    454.6 KB · Views: 410
  • 7D1A4D5D-9C4E-4A6C-B2E2-4E5B138BD79C.jpeg
    7D1A4D5D-9C4E-4A6C-B2E2-4E5B138BD79C.jpeg
    445.3 KB · Views: 379
  • 4DBC0090-A4FF-4DB9-8C51-83855377C157.jpeg
    4DBC0090-A4FF-4DB9-8C51-83855377C157.jpeg
    402.8 KB · Views: 354
  • FA160D0B-CE97-4D8D-ACB3-315807705CEA.jpeg
    FA160D0B-CE97-4D8D-ACB3-315807705CEA.jpeg
    328 KB · Views: 370
Back
Top Bottom