Gnasher328
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2012
- Location
- Chiang Mai / New Forest, England
- Bikes
- Ducati 851 & Mille S2, HD FXR, Trumpet R3, BMW R100RS, CRF 250
Last year, one of my most memorable trips was to Phayo, and thoughts of returning prompt me to share this.
It was by chance I ended up there and decided so far it is my favourite place in Thailand.
It is situated on a large lake with a Wat in the middle and a few other interesting ones nearby including the 'Heaven and Hell' one. The 'prom' has a laid back Meditteranean feel and seems devoid of Farangs for such a nice place, I don't think there is much/anything on Tripadvisor and I decided I would keep it that way, so this is strictly between us, OK?
I found a nice hotel on the front and had a huge bright corner room overlooking the lake for 800Bht (I think).
There is a large market at the NE of the prom which was interesting to wander round in the evening, and many eating places along the front to choose from.
The following morning I woke to what sounded like a procession outside my window, and peering out found it was in fact a flotilla with musicians, dancers and holy men on a line of small boats proceeding along the shoreline.
Later in the day I found that there were boat trips to the Wat and around dusk I bought a ticket, some flowers, a candle and a joss stick, then boarded a boat with a dozen or so others and headed out into the lake. It was one of the most 'magical' moments I can remember, with the sun setting on one side and the moon rising on the other. We headed for the (altar?) and made our offerings, myself giving thanks for being in such a wonderful place. Unfortunately, the batteries on my phone/cam which I had been using as a GPS all day decided to call it a day at that point - ho hum.
The ride back to CM was also quite interesting, Hwy 1 towards Lampang was the best and fastest I had been on in Thailand, reminding me of Alpine motorways in France. For the first time I was wishing for my 851 and even thinking of hiring a sportsbike to do it again, but unlike a European motorway there were a lot of sharp corners bunged in which I had to slow down for even on the CRF.
I had planned a loop off the main road but after a morning investigating a couple of local Wats was having second thoughts, but then I saw a sign indicating a dam and couldn't resist it, heading up the 1335 to what G'maps says is the 'Mae Wang-Kew Lom Water Transmission Project'. Having gone that far it seemed a good idea to continue on the 'loop' even though I was getting short of fuel. The road went higher and higher, seeming to be going into the middle of nowhere, I was starting to worry, but then I came to Chae Hom where there was a very welcome fuel stop.
I think I took the 1035 back down to Lampang rather than the 1157 I had planned but it got me to the start of the next 'loop' without hitting the main road. This was heading towards the Doi Khun Tan National Park, running through a beautiful vally alongside the railway before climbing through the park and dropping to the 1230.
I came to a junction and right seemed to be the right way, but then I saw a sign saying 'Chiang Rai xx km' and started to worry again as the sun was going down. I reached for the phone and saw the 1229 wasn't far and should take me in the right direction. This turned out to be another bonkers back road twisting over a ridge but then dropping to the 1317 and signs for Chiang Mai. The sun had set now so the highway was myway and I happily headed towards a shower and beer.
This section would make a good day ride from CM, I know I will be exploring it again.
It was by chance I ended up there and decided so far it is my favourite place in Thailand.
It is situated on a large lake with a Wat in the middle and a few other interesting ones nearby including the 'Heaven and Hell' one. The 'prom' has a laid back Meditteranean feel and seems devoid of Farangs for such a nice place, I don't think there is much/anything on Tripadvisor and I decided I would keep it that way, so this is strictly between us, OK?
I found a nice hotel on the front and had a huge bright corner room overlooking the lake for 800Bht (I think).
There is a large market at the NE of the prom which was interesting to wander round in the evening, and many eating places along the front to choose from.
The following morning I woke to what sounded like a procession outside my window, and peering out found it was in fact a flotilla with musicians, dancers and holy men on a line of small boats proceeding along the shoreline.
Later in the day I found that there were boat trips to the Wat and around dusk I bought a ticket, some flowers, a candle and a joss stick, then boarded a boat with a dozen or so others and headed out into the lake. It was one of the most 'magical' moments I can remember, with the sun setting on one side and the moon rising on the other. We headed for the (altar?) and made our offerings, myself giving thanks for being in such a wonderful place. Unfortunately, the batteries on my phone/cam which I had been using as a GPS all day decided to call it a day at that point - ho hum.
The ride back to CM was also quite interesting, Hwy 1 towards Lampang was the best and fastest I had been on in Thailand, reminding me of Alpine motorways in France. For the first time I was wishing for my 851 and even thinking of hiring a sportsbike to do it again, but unlike a European motorway there were a lot of sharp corners bunged in which I had to slow down for even on the CRF.
I had planned a loop off the main road but after a morning investigating a couple of local Wats was having second thoughts, but then I saw a sign indicating a dam and couldn't resist it, heading up the 1335 to what G'maps says is the 'Mae Wang-Kew Lom Water Transmission Project'. Having gone that far it seemed a good idea to continue on the 'loop' even though I was getting short of fuel. The road went higher and higher, seeming to be going into the middle of nowhere, I was starting to worry, but then I came to Chae Hom where there was a very welcome fuel stop.
I think I took the 1035 back down to Lampang rather than the 1157 I had planned but it got me to the start of the next 'loop' without hitting the main road. This was heading towards the Doi Khun Tan National Park, running through a beautiful vally alongside the railway before climbing through the park and dropping to the 1230.
I came to a junction and right seemed to be the right way, but then I saw a sign saying 'Chiang Rai xx km' and started to worry again as the sun was going down. I reached for the phone and saw the 1229 wasn't far and should take me in the right direction. This turned out to be another bonkers back road twisting over a ridge but then dropping to the 1317 and signs for Chiang Mai. The sun had set now so the highway was myway and I happily headed towards a shower and beer.
This section would make a good day ride from CM, I know I will be exploring it again.
