Hi,
I recently modded a USB phone/gps charger that I had kicking around to use on my KLX.
I got it from 7-11 a while ago for 199 Baht.
For that you get wall charger, car charger and adapters for most phones.
Start by unscrewing the metal bits at the end.
And then just prise the case apart, it should come apart fairly easily.
We're gonna put the circuit board back in this case at the end, so don't be too harsh with it!
Keep the fuse.
Desolder the spring and the ground wire.
You'll be left with this.
I decided that the best (dryest) place for the adaptor on a KLX is close to the battery under the seat.
This has a disadvantage in that the supplied cable is too short, so I have to use a USB extender cable on my bike.
This will vary from bike to bike, you'll want to whip the seat off and decide where things are gonna go before starting the next bit.
To make an inline fuse, just solder wires directly onto the fuse ends.
The soldering iron will need to be at maximum temperature for this bit.
Where ever you decide to mount the adaptor, keep the wire from the battery to the fuse as short as possible.
Solder the longer wire into the hole left when you desoldered the spring (this is the +12V connection)
Solder the Ground wire into the hole left when you desoldered the ground wire.
All soldering done the mods can be tested with a battery or battery charger.
You can buy proper battery terminals, or make them from solder.
Start by stripping both wires to about 4cm.
Twist the cores together and then wind them around some suitably sized round thing (I used a screwdriver end)
Then just tin them with solder.
Wrap the fuse up well in insulation tape.
Snip off the LED.
Put it back in the case and seal with insulation tape.
These things are super efficient, around 90% or better.
132.2mA at 12V running my Garmin Oregon, or around 1.6W.
Part 2, mounting on the bike, coming up...
I recently modded a USB phone/gps charger that I had kicking around to use on my KLX.
I got it from 7-11 a while ago for 199 Baht.
For that you get wall charger, car charger and adapters for most phones.
Start by unscrewing the metal bits at the end.
And then just prise the case apart, it should come apart fairly easily.
We're gonna put the circuit board back in this case at the end, so don't be too harsh with it!
Keep the fuse.
Desolder the spring and the ground wire.
You'll be left with this.
I decided that the best (dryest) place for the adaptor on a KLX is close to the battery under the seat.
This has a disadvantage in that the supplied cable is too short, so I have to use a USB extender cable on my bike.
This will vary from bike to bike, you'll want to whip the seat off and decide where things are gonna go before starting the next bit.
To make an inline fuse, just solder wires directly onto the fuse ends.
The soldering iron will need to be at maximum temperature for this bit.
Where ever you decide to mount the adaptor, keep the wire from the battery to the fuse as short as possible.
Solder the longer wire into the hole left when you desoldered the spring (this is the +12V connection)
Solder the Ground wire into the hole left when you desoldered the ground wire.
All soldering done the mods can be tested with a battery or battery charger.
You can buy proper battery terminals, or make them from solder.
Start by stripping both wires to about 4cm.
Twist the cores together and then wind them around some suitably sized round thing (I used a screwdriver end)
Then just tin them with solder.
Wrap the fuse up well in insulation tape.
Snip off the LED.
Put it back in the case and seal with insulation tape.
These things are super efficient, around 90% or better.
132.2mA at 12V running my Garmin Oregon, or around 1.6W.
Part 2, mounting on the bike, coming up...
