Marrakech, bike delivery, to Essaouira, Jemaa el-Fnaa market
2nd October
I will write this report with the ‘first visit to Morocco’ reader in mind.
My research showed that Austrian Air had the most convenient schedules Bangkok-Vienna-Marrakech, where my rental bike would be waiting near the airport. It’s a 10.5 hour flight to Vienna then 3.5 down to Marrakech arriving at 1pm on October 2nd (my 71st birthday).
I collected some Moroccan dirham and a SIM card at the airport then confronted the taxi swarm for a hectic ride into Marrakech. (Taxi drivers usually charge per person to get to a destination).
First impression was the amount of terra-cotta colored buildings in Marrakech. It isn’t called ‘The Red City’ for no reason!
Checked into the Oudaya Hotel (169 rooms and well located). Good news; my room had a deep bathtub!
I then contacted Mr Aziz from Motor Rental Morocco who sent a colleague, Mr Abdul, to meet me and take me to the storage shed where my SWM was waiting.
I didn’t know anything about SWM. This was a near new bike with only 4017kms on the clock.
Apparently SWM is a Milan based company founded in 1971. They actually have a wide range of models. Mine was a Superdual X, single cylinder, 630cc, 169kgs, Husquvarna heritage. I had negotiated a deal with Mr Aziz that included new side boxes, tools, new spare tubes, extra bags, and other goodies. The engine oil and filter had been changed. A faulty horn (necessary!) was replaced and paperwork done.
We fitted my Montana GPS. The large 18 liter tank was full and I was ready to go. I later discovered that the bike's range was over 400kms.
So I rode back into frantic Marrakech and fell into their large pool before a bit of walking around the city.
Note. This was the first time Mr Aziz had rented a bike to a solo rider. He usually does guided rides for small groups. The bike was not to go off sealed roads, the centre stand was to be used when parking overnight and no fuel purchased from plastic containers in remote areas was to be put into the tank. I was later to unintentionally break the agreement but that’s a story for later in this report!
3rd October
A bit of a ride around the city to familiarize myself with the bike, the local road culture and the GPS. No dramas, although ‘my’ bike did not enjoy 1st gear crawling through traffic unless revs were kept up.
I discovered that a government Red Bus Service offers a 70 minute loop around the city, having 18 stops where passengers can ‘hop off hop back on’ over 48 hours for the ticket price. This was a excellent way to get around. The upper windowless deck offers a cooling breeze and passengers take in the sites and sounds of this fascinating city. I did a couple of loops, refreshed, then took the plunge and decided to tackle the famous, historic and massive Jemaa el-Fnaa market (medina).
Wiki states that this medina's history dates back almost 1,000 years.
en.m.wikipedia.org
I’m not a crowd person, so this would be a test. Evening is the best time to be there. I arrived around 5pm and ‘massive’ is the word.
I walked about 5kms in that medina, taking in the sites, sounds and aromas. There is a significant armed police presence here.
The cool breeze helped.
All manner of hustlers and beggars can be confronting but, hey, that’s the way it is.
The best way to appreciate Jemaa el-Fnaa is from a height, looking down on it all. There are a few very good restaurants on the perimeter of the Medina and I found a ring-side seat on the first floor at one. Mint tea, a pizza, some ice-cream and life was good watching and listening to the action from a distance.
Some scenes from Jemaa el Fna and from the bus ride.
Someone at the market is doing quite well.
4th October
Time to do a short tour on the bike.
I rode along a mostly straight and good road to coastal Essaouira. 162 kms and a police presence enforcing the speed limits.
Some police checks even have road spikes at the ready.
Exactly 11kms before my destination there was a noticeable drop in temperature (from 34 Celsius) and the pleasing smell of the ocean.
The actual beach and water was disappointing but I’m an Aussie used to white beaches and blue water. The shallows here were dirty from brown soil, probably tonnes of Sahara sand.
I found this to be a seaside tourist town and, apart from the sunset, it had nothing to offer me.
It is known as ‘The Windy City’ and it sure was. One overnighter here.
Not something one sees every day.
There are many of these old Renaults around Morocco.
And cats everywhere, but very few dogs.
5th October
A casual ride back towards Marrakech, stopping at Mzoudia where a huge horse festival of some kind was taking place. I dismounted and walked amongst the horses, being invited to take photos of riders in their regalia on their magnificent steeds.
A couple of guys approached me to show how they loaded their muskets. I’m not sure what this huge gathering was all about, so some research is needed.
Back into Marrakech, refreshed and onto the Red Bus again for a relaxing tour of the city and another visit to the amazing Jemaa el Fna.
Tomorrow to another destination. Up
Some of the best scenes in most countries are off the beaten track. Seems a bit stringent, though I'm sure it means fewer dust/maintenance problems.
