Laos ride: OudomXai, Phonsavan, 4000 islands to Cambodia

[pib]

Here it keeps going...
The previous part: http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-...ua-hin-laos-burma-side-chiang-mai-1148-a.html

All pics about Laos:
https://plus.google.com/photos/1093...uthkey=CIv5nsi_s5u-3gE&banner=pwa&gpsrc=pwrd1

My blog in french ( a bit too much detailed I know). Day by day, in english in this post. Thanks to google translate... sorry if I miss some stupid automatic translation sentences. I have tried to correct them, but not sure I got all of them!
http://pib-voyages.blogspot.hk

All GPS and road done day by day
http://pib-cartes.blogspot.hk/#!/

 

[pib]

15/11 - SabaDee Laos
Weather: Exceptional ... blue sky, not a cloud, 23-25deg



At 8:30 in Chaolem Phra Kiat. It is foggy! I cannot see 50m away ... this is not a joke.


A road would border directly from the village, but not indicated. But I do not want to end up in a border post for cows. I go back few km and take the main road.

How it worked at this border?

Firstly, myself. I need photocopies (1 passport + 1 + 1 visa Thai paper motorcycle)! He just looking for a tip, with "any other document" ... and then he wrote the conveyance of information form 60 Baht: likely, this is definitely the official rate ...
Secondly, the bike, in the office next door. We also need a copy! then, I should have a nice face, so i dont it anymore...

Arrive at Lao border, first barrier, I present my passport - 2 customs guys check - and wait for 3 or 4 minutes - they watch and discuss about the bike. They do not inspect, they are making an oral essay!

To Customs office finally.
1.Visa for $ 30, a sticker in my passport, without name nor expiration date
2.office next door, they ask me all the papers again, including the bike and finally I have the visa expires 30 days later... You have to pay 70 Baht, why? I still do not know.
3.Finally I record the bike. It takes more than 30 minutes. It discusses the import time ... finally I have three weeks, perfect. The papers are issued by a computer, modern etc ... I am a little surprised. I check everything, pay 100 baht again, why??? and can finally get back on my feet for insurance
4.Assurance AGL closed! Toko insurance. 200Bahts for 3 weeks and insurance that assures me, maybe! she did not speak a word of English, I did not understand a word, but I have a legal insurance for cops.
I can finally leave. I ride 2km and find a bank to exchange $ in KIP.

The landscape changes dramatically: Always mountains, but few trees. I am in Laos with most hazardous roads and landslides pretty impressive.



I arrived at the ferry to cross the Mekong River upstream of Pak Beng, as expected. This was not, however: the beach of mud to reach the ferry. 30000kip off my wallet and 20 minutes later I'm on the other side. To exit: a sandy beach! The bike goes deep 30cm at least, a little bit tricky and narrowly avoided falling, hop on the road.

The Mekong is narrow and well stirred. I go towards Pak Beng. Finally there is a sign: Pak Beng 1km on the right. On the small road. 50m further, I must pass over a huge landslide. I almost fall down and then a road of rocks, mud etc... 500m seems the infinite. In fact, there is an other road coming from the north.. Just keep going, then I may have found it.

The town is deserted, the backpackers are not yet arrived.

a lunch later, I continue my journey and gorgeous landscapes beginning of each side. I go through the villages of huts with children running around. There are so many that it seems that there are only children! Same as in Thailand, but more impressed by the motorcycle. When a child sees me coming, he called up his friends to see me!

Driving on the right side is not a problem but it is true that the vehicles do not care much of about a vehicle oncoming ...
o Oudomxay. And rice fields ready to be harvested and villages of huts along. then I pass from valley to valley, hills as a background.



 reach Oudomxay, busy city in the mountains that surround it. This changed somewhat with my day. I take a GH for 40000 kip, or 6 USD is not luxurous ... A little bit of internet (!!!) and I go to dinner Souphailin's restaurant: excellent food, cooked in front of you.


Phil in Chiang Mai indicated me this alternative road from Chinag Mai to Oudom Xai. Indeed the road 1148 + this side of Laos are just incredebible. Much better than crossing the border above Chinag Rai. Thanks again Phil!

Carnet de voyages: SabaDee Laos

GPS: Cartes des voyages: Jour 10: Chaloem Phra Kyat - Oudom Xay

 

[pib]

16/11 - North of Luang Prabang, Laos by the mountains
Weather: fog to start, then outstanding and azure sky of sight, 22-25deg



full tank, according to the nb of liter I just bought, my fuel consumption jumped 6l/100km! Rather strange, the road was not very rough yesterday ...
TRICK => the next full tank will teach me they con me ... I pay the price of the full tank while they delivered less liters! I am still a tourist anyway

But the road is shitty! Correct for 100m, then 100m road stone, I travel 70 km in 3 hours to Pak Mong, the road is great but too focues on potholes I do not enjoy too much ...



he road goes through mountains and valleys. Cars or trucks oncoming prefer to use the entire road, it's easier for them, not too much for me!

After leaving Pak Mong, I find myself in front of huge landslide, at least 50-70m long.
hen I found myself in the middle of limestone mountains, on a deserted road near to a small town on a river. Tourists roam before or after their visit to Muang Ngoay, a city in the north, along the same river that is the only way of communication: in other words a city cut off from the world!


Then I reach the Nan National Park and a thick jungle mountain. The temperature strongly get colder while the road narrows, but overall rather good. Villages have nice obstacles: chickens, pigs, cats, dogs and of course all children.

These are the same villages since I got into Laos: the Middle Ages as I would imagine. Huts made of branches and bamboo or wood, on stilts higher or lower, children and animals running around in the ground. Sometimes, one a bit upcale: it is a grenary!
Great simplicity of comfort, but still featuring a sattelite antenna...


While I continue to Vieng Thong by small forest road (the main road), I met four French taking a break after crossing offraods all those. They looked tired but happy with their epic journey. In Vieng Thong. The guesthouses are full ... I found a very basic room without hot water for 30k Kip ...

In "town" i met Jim, the boss of Remote Asia. He is leading a group boozers. I explained my projected itinerary and after a call to check something, it tells me that I can not cut directly after Phonsavan, by the south. The road is very bad and my tires are not suitable for those rough offroads. But the most important, I have a too big bike to cross the Mekong on a bamboo raft. the AT is too heavy! So my only option to return by Phoum Khum, down to Vientiane and take Route 13. I'm a little disappointed... I did not really want me to go there again, on this road that I know. Discussing, he also explains that head south on the Ho Chi Minh trail beside the Vietnamese border is not for an Africa twin: these are just ways to cows!



The AT is a very good bike, but a little big ... I knew it but now I know the limits without testing.

Thanks to Jim from Remote Asia, for his usefull advices! Without knowing which ones, I stepped away from troubles.


Carnet de voyages: Au Nord de Luang Prabang, Laos par les montagnes

GPS: Cartes des voyages: Jour 11: Oudom Xay - Vieng Thong

 

[pib]

17/11 - To the Plain of Jars
Weather: scattered clouds and a big blue sky, fresh, 22-25deg. The sun is so strong = mandatory sunblock!




I leave early to get to get in Phonsavan early, have a most beautiful landscape in the morning and be able to visit one of the sites of jars this afternoon.

After refueling, the bike has attracted all curious around, I ride on a small road in the middle of the jungle mountain humid. It climbs "seriously", surrounded by a thick fog. I pass above the mist quickly. Some sections of gravels on the road, I turn corners slowly because if I had to miss one, it would be a nice flight of tens of meters into the ravine.
What would have happened without those gravels that forced me to slow down slightly? At a bend, a large truck through, I managed to just pass in the aisle.

This is an accident in turn, a motorcycle (honda wave) met a truck! The bike is shreeded pieces, the damaged helmet in the ditch, a group of lurkers, but on floor, no traces of blood or any injured person ... ok, I got it! Now I slow my speed and use the horn to signal myself at each corner!
The landscapes vary from one valley to another, sometimes cultures, sometimes mountain forests.



The horizon is clear and for once there is no power line to come to spoil the scenary, it changes ...

Interesting experiment: in the villages, children come next by the road when they hear the distant sound of a big bike, shouting "sabadee" and I have them back. While a small group waved, I slowed down, almost stopped. They are all gone soon! In the next village, I dwell: same result, all the children out to me "hello" immediately disappeared. Can not take a single pic of them.
The road peaks at 1550-1600m, the mountain ridges, and despite the big blue sky it's fresh air. The horn will be wisely used sometimes to report my presence to trucks in the middle of the road when cornering ... despite being fairly prudent, I will have twice to brake furiously, and once to end up slitghtly in the bush, but on my feet.. No damage.

Lunch in Muang Kuang and go back to Phonsavan. By leaving the village the engine stops, all lights, table edge off! The power outage! I just 20m from a "garage" campaign. A young student helps me to push the bike. With gestures, I explain to the mechanic who was sleeping what is wrong. I alight luggages, we check all connections, fuses (I'm convinced that this is the electrical controller) and then all of a sudden the power comes back to touching the dashboard and key ... no idea why . I redo my package, I want to pay the mechanic who refuses, then I'm leaving. Starting again, Jim (remote-asia) overtoake me. He stops to ask if everything is okay. I explained to him and tells me I can not find a garage in Phonsavan better than here. Nice way of saying that I will not find someone who can fix it. I take my road and 300m later? same issue again! I shoult and the mechanic arrives on his motorcycle. We touch again and it comes back. I operate all switches and electricity disappears again! I'm trying to see me spend the night here! Pulling all the cables, and it works again... Worried, after 2min thinking. I'm back on the road. Is it better to stay here and try to find? Or risk breaking down in the middle of nowhere? I ride at a moderate pace to finish the 50km that separate me from Phonsavan. The route starts with a mountain before reaching the plateau of Phonsavan. No more electrical issue.



Phonsavan ... it is shit! A very dusty town, treeless, a main artery. It reminds me of a city of the Far West, but with concrete ... I am looking for a guesthouse recommended in my guide. 1st prize USD 25, they smoke weeds not very legal! 2nd guesthouse, 20 USD! Finally I find a room in Nice Guesthouse (it can not be invented) for 80k Kip.

Now the damn power outage! So I take my bike apart to try to find that shit. I disconnect I can not get out the tank, and all the trim back without having found a loose connection. Later, I realized that the problem can not come from a simple loose connection, because I lost all memory of the onboard computer, as if you had just disconnected the battery ... The failure seems to me more complicated but it will remain like that.

At Craters THE bar in town, I found Jim. We talk a little and tell me that I could not find more offroad tires / aggressive only in Vientiane, at Fuark. Given the floods in Thailand, it might be out of stock ... We must go and see! It does not delight me through Vientiane and waste time. I have to go through Phoum Khum and Vang Vieng anyway, at least a day to think about it.
Tomorrow morning early, I plan to visit the Plain of Jars and to Vientane.

Carnet de voyages: Vers la Plaine de Jarres

GPS: http://pib-cartes.blogspot.hk/2011/...#!/2011/11/jour-12-vieng-thong-phonsavan.html

 

[pib]

18/11 - The Plain of Jars and the road to Vientiane
Weather: Blue sky with clouds, rather warm, 25deg



Up at dawn! Early this morning I visit the Plain of Jars, and leave immediately. When I got up I discovered a lovely email from my employer stating that I have not done a mandatory training ... it feels again the troublemakers. A band toccards not fucking having updated files themselves managed by monkeys in search of pride! ... I was fine without thinking about them ~ sigh ~.


Around 8:30, I go to the information center, rather simple. The site is empty or almost: just a couple. The JARS are there, amid ancient craters explosions and other trenches of war. The sites were battlefields (Indochina and Vietnam wars) and there are still many mines, shells and unexploded munitions, causing deaths and disabilities every year.

I visit the first site fairly quickly. Leaving, minibuses dump hordes of tourists. Whew ... I escaped it. I leave with mixed feelings of "is that the famous Plain of Jars? ". Maybe after Bagan, Angkor Wat or Borobudur, I'm a little jaded. In any case, Phonsavan is far from everything, and make the way just to see such a cultural site, it's very far. Likely a bit too far.
I've been around pretty quickly so I decided to go to a second site. What a mess! I have to find the spot indicated by the GPS. I find it, but it errands between fields and I'd rather not venture anywhere with all these little gifts left by the U.S. ... The landscape is peeled! Very few trees, as if after the war, the trees had not grown back. I returned to the hotel, ready for me to spin Phoum Khum (130km), it is 11.00.

The road is curvy and no shade at all, and treeless. It burns on the helmet ... while the road climbs slightly, the temperature becomes more acceptable. Phonsavan is a plateau surrounded by mountains. Phoum Khum is located in the mountains between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. It reminds me of good memories during my first trip 3 years ago. We had reached Phoum Phoum, at night, in this shitty town finding an shabby guesthouse ... did it change?

Arrived in Phoum Phoum, and no it has not changed! Buses and minibuses stop there between Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Towards Vang Vieng. I found exactly the same landscapes that three years ago. I ride pretty smoothly, without stopping much. I have enough pictures.
The road is shabby, but the landscapes are simply sublime. Finally, I arrived on the plain and advance rather quickly again.




After blocks limestones 30km north of Vang Vieng, the road becomes completely shit. Just one pass? No, it will last up to Vang Vieng. Crevices, ditches, potholes etc. ... not very nice! I arrived in Vang Vieng at 16.00 and leading to the same guesthouse there 3years: The Organic Garden. I negotiate and find myself with a great room for 90k Kip, the bike in front of the balcony of the room. After having put my affairs in order, browse internet and GPS, I go into town and dying of a "European" dish!

The beatnik knows no crisis! Vang Vieng = surreal concept for Laos ... Initially, it must come from very far, to: weed smokers, getting drunk, eating pizza with hallucinogenic mushrooms while watching American TV shows in bars, theaters, not to mention the "tubing", while visiting Luang Prabang is only a few hours away ... a little hard to understand. To do this, better to stay in Bangkok, Khao San or go to Koh Phan Ghan!

Tomorrow, I head toowards Ventinae to fix my tire, and then I try to speed up to Paksan. I still have 7 days in Laos ...

Carnet de voyages: La Plaine des Jarres et la route vers Vientiane

GPS: http://pib-cartes.blogspot.hk/2011/...l#!/2011/11/jour-13-phonsavan-vang-vieng.html

 

[pib]

19/11 - Vientiane city driving, I love ...
Weather: Blue sky with clouds, 25-26 deg

In VangVieng, there is a motorcycle rental where i can stop to chekc if they ahev some offroads tyres. I saw they had big bikes to their store. Indeed, they have a tire that is suitable for the front wheel only ... it does not get me too and I prefer to change two or none. But they give me the number of their supplier in Vientiane.

According to my information, the road had to be better than the day before ... noway! A awful part for 100m and 100m acceptable paved road. Then it gets better. I realize that I am away from the river. It seems recent floods and rain do not like road construction Laos.
50km from Vientiane, circulation increases and the road becomes shit again under the weight of trucks. Very large potholes

Cars in all directions, cars in oppsite direction that double in the 3rd lane. I fail to meet face to face a 4x4 when he decides to my lane for a parking lot: maximum concentration. After Marseille, Vientiane will scare me ...
Little or no pictures, not much to see and I want to be in Vientiane as soon as possible in order to leave as soon as possible.

Mechanical session:
Arrived at Fuark (thank you GPS - Laos Map), I talk to the boss's wife. Not very sure, she called her husband. Digging out in the shop, not really usefull... I start wondering if I came here for something usefull.

Meanwhile, I talk to two German guys (and Uwe Stephan) who repair their bikes. They will do the same path as me but from tomorrow and we do think to make the journey together. I hesitate because it makes me stay a night in Vientiane ... While we talk, a guy from Jules Rental (www.bike-rental-laos.com) landed a Laotian speaking perfect English and he found me in the bottom of garage a perfect offroad pair of tyre! 2 hours for 130 USD, I have my tires changed. I decided to keep my rear tire that can serve me if I go back down to Singapore on the highway I could not havea "too cross" tire.
Another decision: I also decided to stay with my 2 New companions for a few days.

Once the tires changed, I go to Mixay guesthouse. A little expensive (105k Kip), but it will be fine. by washing my motorcycle jacket and pants, the Mekong water is clear compared to the juice that comes out of my laundry!
By chance I recrosses my two neo-confederates and discuss "planning". I decided to go see Jules, the boss of Jules rental because we have some specific questions. He answers all my questions and recommended me to leave my bike at Bernard's shop in Cambodia (www.motorcycletourscambodia.com) if I want. He advised me about tracks in the southeastern Laos: "not worth going to fuck up." I go wandering around in the city streets and reminds me that I had completely forgotten. Vientiane did not left me a lasting memory.

Dinner at Kho Pa Deuc, very good curry, and acceptable prices, but some girls workers hang at the bar yet rather upper-class, is a surprising. After a few Beer Lao in a bar full of backpackers, sleep because tomorrow appointment at 8am.

Carnet de voyages: Vientiane, la conduite en ville, j?adore?

GPS: http://pib-cartes.blogspot.hk/2011/...l#!/2011/11/jour-14-vang-vieng-vientiane.html

 

[pib]

20/11 - "It looks like the South"
Weather: sunny, warm, 30deg



From Vientiane with my two buddies. Meet at 8am and head to Paksan. GPS has decided to make his own tour of the city... he turns round and us with it! Highway 13 leading to the south, right, long, flat and few trees. It runs along the Mekong River. Nothing to see or almost landscapes or villages. This contrasts somewhat with the last few days. A thick heat haze appeared and it annihilate any hope of picture.

We stopped for lunch just before leaving Route 13, and east towards roads 8 and 12 to mountains.



These are huge limestone concretions, very strange: long and narrow, they stood upright on several hundred meters, but do not measure more than a few tens of meters at the base and form a vertical "forest" as a yarrow lying. No photo possible given the heat haze ...

We arrive at Khun Kham, a plateau between the mountains. Among 7 guesthouses, we made ​​our choice. I completely undo the bike for tomorrow we will roam around here, to a cave. There is 1 restaurant in town. In the middle of nowhere, these peasant villages had their faith completely changed with the construction of several hydroelectric facilities/dams.

Carnet de voyages: « On dirait le Sud »

GPS: Cartes des voyages: Jour 15: Vientiane - Ban Khoun Kham

 

[The Bigfella]

Some great photos in that link. Thanks

 

[KTMphil]

Really in depth - Thanks pib

 

[Lone Rider]

15/11 - SabaDee Laos
Arrive at Lao border, first barrier, I present my passport - 2 customs guys check - and wait for 3 or 4 minutes - they watch and discuss about the bike. They do not inspect, they are making an oral essay!

To Customs office finally.
1.Visa for $ 30, a sticker in my passport, without name nor expiration date
2.office next door, they ask me all the papers again, including the bike and finally I have the visa expires 30 days later... You have to pay 70 Baht, why? I still do not know.
3.Finally I record the bike. It takes more than 30 minutes. It discusses the import time ... finally I have three weeks, perfect. The papers are issued by a computer, modern etc ... I am a little surprised. I check everything, pay 100 baht again, why??? and can finally get back on my feet for insurance
4.Assurance AGL closed! Toko insurance. 200Bahts for 3 weeks and insurance that assures me, maybe! she did not speak a word of English, I did not understand a word, but I have a legal insurance for cops.
I can finally leave. I ride 2km and find a bank to exchange $ in KIP.
Carnet de voyages: SabaDee Laos

GPS: Cartes des voyages: Jour 10: Chaloem Phra Kyat - Oudom Xay

Aha, I see you got the same treatment at the Laos border as everyone else - the two guys in green uniform who have forgotten how to smile. They will check everything when you arrive at the border and again when they finally let you through. One time I was there with my son in the car and they told my son when everything was ready to enter Laos, to get out of the car, walk some 3 meter to the other side of the border line and then he was allowed to get in the car again.

 

[pib]

Let's continue...

 

[pib]

21/11 - Around Ban Khoun Kam




There is a tourist office at the entrance of the city. Rather usefull.

To Kong Lor cave: We thought is was offroad, nope, it is a small asphalt road that winds through the valley between the villages. The plain is completely flat, windy and very dry. The rice has been harvested and wont push until the next monsoon so that the river bed are.

We arrive at the Kong Lor cave and no place for wild tour...
The visit is by boat on the underground river with "official guide. It will be 110k for a boat. We embark in a leaky boat, the 15-20m out of a cave which is really wide and 10m high. We go upstream.

Soon the only lights available are those of our flashlights and it's chilled. It's impressive without being exceptional. After 10 minutes of boat, we arrived to follow a walking path on the side while the boat goes up, alone. Along the way we see stalagmites and stalactites, ingeniously lit with the help of the Rhône-Alpes region. Returned to the boat in time, power cut!

For more than 7km, it follows the course of the river. We will be forced to step down 2-3 times in order to allow the boat to cross shallow waters. The cave entrance is a green in the middle of a wet vegetation. Water buffaloes bathe, some crops on the banks. Same way back.

By taking the bikes, we decided to follow a track marked on the GPS. The first test, the track disappeared. The 2nd test, following a bumpy track with ruts of dry mud (20-30 cm) made by the cars at the end of the rainy season. Finally, somehow we arrive in a village that leads nowhere ... the specified track is nothing more than a cow path that runs through the middle of rice fields. We do learn after each monsoon, the tracks change! Anyway we decided to go back on the road, crossing over dry rice paddies ...

​

Carnet de voyages: Bah, il fait bien noir ici!

GPS: Cartes des voyages: Jour 16: Autour Ban Khoun Kham

 

[pib]

Here some offroads pics

https://plus.google.com/photos/1093...uthkey=CJmluO6K28OOqgE&banner=pwa&gpsrc=pwrd1

 

[pib]

22/11 - The loop through the East, across the lake ...
Weather: sunny to start, then rain unto the rain hot, 28-30 deg



We have a big day ahead of us. Jules in Vientiane warned us that the road was quite bumpy but "ok": an old asphalt road. The road leads to La Xao, through the mountains. On a bridge, we can see canoes made in the fuel tanks - dropped by American planes during the bombing - 40 years ago.


Then it goes! Jules has not lied to us. The rutted road got worse as soon as the 1st km and finally a stone road that becomes a potholes track.
My bike shakes seriously and the track becomes a small path and really curvy while we go into the forest. The road passes through the middle of a huge artificial lake created by the different hydro-electric projects. We decide to go to the entrance of the lake, with a good track.

Arrived at a dam, I'm a little disappointed nothing exceptional and only the edge of the lake with dead trees in the middle of the water. The same landscape is much more striking in the middle of the lake, the banks are half-submerged and gives a sentiment of a flood...

After having lunch at one of the only restaurants from The Xao, the track is better, broader, but many holes are really traitor: road seems better, you accelerate, then a pothole a bit too fast can be really bas.

At the end of the lake: a good quality road running through Laos from east to west to connect Thailand to Vietnam. Mountains of limestone around. The landscape is just awfull due to all high-power lines...

Reached Thakhek looking for a guesthouse along the Mekong. The idea sounded nice. Impossible, the riverside is not finished as could be the edge of a river. This will result in a colonial house converted into so-called GH and mostly dilapidated. Dinner by the river is not very good and I'm not very confident of quality ...

Carnet de voyages: La boucle par l'Est, en traversant le lac...

GPS: Cartes des voyages: Jour 17: Ban Khoun Kham - Thakhek

 

[pib]

23/11 - Around Thakhek: Kong Leng Lake and Buddha cave
Weather: rather sunny, warm, 30deg


Stomach pain, i knew yesterday night the food was sh*t ... stupid duck by the river!
To the lake (lake Kong Leng) in the mountains, by a offroad track.

It was the Route 13 and turn east on a good gravel track: impossible to brake on such a track, or it is a fail!
After a few kilometers, the forest becomes denser and the track does not improve at all: the big stones are emerging to become a field of rocks ... some muddy slopes... like slidding up or down...

After the passage in the middle of some hills, we are in the plains and the track becomes really sandy: a few scares, especially when turning. turning in sand or how to fall down...? cannot turn, cannot brake... We finally arrived at the last village before the lake. Leaving the village, we cross a muddy passage in the river bed. My rear wheel is sinking to the axle ... I accelerate, sending mud everywhere in the trees and then I go out.

gain 100m further, the rear wheel goes deep into the mud. I have to step down... 1rst gear on while im on the side doesnt help much! Impossible to cross this muddy path. Impossible to turn around either! And on both A a 50deg slope... We manage to turn slighly the bike facing the slope. Puhsing it in the bush, I went through. Though but through...

Lesson: before going to a path ... be sure you can turn back if you cannot cross!

My two buddies end up bike because they were able to pass and I join them off after 500m in the middle of rice paddies.
The lake is an impressive turquoise color, full of small fishes that circulate in the calm water. It is less than eighty 80m in diameter. I'd rather take a nap while my buddies bath.


We are moving towards Thakhek to see the "Buddha Cave" on the road Mahaxay.



The trail to the cave is very good, surrounded by limestone concretions. The cave is perched on a cliff. That's the cave? Some stalactites offerings across a cave 8x8x8m ... rather disappointed.



I managed to change some USD in kip in a carpet store!

Carnet de voyages: Autour de Thakhek: Kong Leng Lake et grotte de Bouddha

GPS: Cartes des voyages: Jour 18: Autour de Thakhek

 

[pib]

24/11 - Pakse, southern capitalcity
Weather: very variable, beautiful, then cloudy and cool and finally blue skies, 24-28deg



I leave my two travel buddies. Big day ahead but I do not know where I'm going ... I'd join Salavon eastward, and make a loop to get around Pakse tomorrow. This is the track and I have no idea if it is "ok for me." If it does not, I will try to join Champassak.

The beginning of the road, completely flat, file in the middle of rice fields: from both sides of the long straights. It will remain flat throughout the day. Strangely rice fields are not cleared and trees grow everywhere. It is very dry, but few prospects, few landscapes so no photos ...

Villages after villages, you never know what will arise from the side: child? Cow? Goat? Dog? Motorcycle? In the long straights, the winds are strong and I drive bended to avoid falling!

Lunch at 50km before leaving Route 13 (Napong) towards Salavon. While a herd of onlookers inspect my bike, a well-dressed man came to talk to me. We discussed and I want to ask the state of the road to Salavon. The verdict is clear: very dusty, and it takes 2 hours to pick-up for the 75km... The guy is an employee of a UN organization as indicated by the symbol on his pickup. Here it cools down in my will toward the East , even though I know that two wheels it's going much faster on the track.
Arrive Napong, I look at the track leading to the east, a last regret and then I decided to shoot straight south. I arrived in Pakse. There is nothing to see for what I could see of the city, and established that tonight I will sleep in Champasak.

The same style of driving after Pakse brings me to the ferry to cross the Mekong.
Ferry Session:
· Firstly, the road ends and you have to cross a range of 70-100m in the beach then some footsteps. Traces in the sand leading to the ferry docked on the beach.
· To get on the ferry, I have to cross a plank bridge: impossible. The step between the beach and the boards is too high ...
· The driver asks me 100k kip to take this boat in front of me. "NO" it tells me that this is the next boat, which adds 20m of pure sand to get it there. The plank is even worse...
· Whatever I manaage to be on the ferry. He now asks me 50k kip for crossing while on the panel, "Jat Lok" = 30k kip. It is
the face when I showed him the sign ... it will be 30k kip. The way out is also in the sand.


Welcome to Champassak. Guesthouse 40k kip for the night and the bike parked in front of the door. I go to the internet cafe closes at 18.00. When I finished, it is full and no street lights dark. Champasak village is a long extending along Mekong and both sides of a road. Not much to see except some beautiful colonial houses which date from 1952, one year before independence, pity...

 

[pib]

Finally the noob I am managed to include some pics ... much nicer

but all pics in albums are here : Carnet de voyages

 

[pib]

25/11 - Wat Phu and the 4000 Islands
Weather: blue skies, warm, 30deg




I did not come up Champassak 'cause it was a pretty name ... There is a major tourist attration Wat Phu is a complex of temples dating almost the same age as Angkor Wat. The capital of the Khmer Empire was moved along with emperors, and for a long time, the center of the empire was in the south of present-day Laos, right here.

My night was disrupted by two notable items: midnight idiots decided to loudly booze in the garden ... and 6am, a loudspeaker broadcasts hymns, patriotic songs and speeches communist party. I thought it would last a few minutes, Nay! It will last more than an hour ... Suffice to say that communism up in my esteem...



To Wat Phu. no body, not a single cat. The site is impressive for its location, on a cliff. Stone stairs to climb higher "levels", but I need a good imagination to see what it could be and follow the descriptions guides because it is mostly a great ruin.


Moreover, under the patronage of several countries and organizations, large restorations are underway, perhaps a little too much for that matter. There is not much standing nowadays.

But an hour later, when I'm out of small hordes of tourists arrive by minibus. Once again I am not unhappy by being here very early.
Jim (Jim from Remote asia) had me indicates a path that I could follow along the mekong, a nice track. I found it on the GPS, but I hesitate. I go to the information center to get some information. Clear verdict: There are bamboo bridges, impassable except in bike ... Chapassak is over, I decided to take the road towards the 4000 islands.
At 11.30, I am ready again. By alighting the ferry, a car will absolutely go first, before me. Following in the footsteps of car on the beach, she stops, deep in the! stucked as a dead duck. I decided to go through by its the side, but it is the full beach with really fine sand... Deep by 30 to 40cm, I thought I was going to get stuck too... not in Africa Twin man! sand flew in the sky, and I am out...

I arrived in front of Don Khong, the largest of 4,000 islands in the middle of the Mekong and a new pier to board the Mekong! A huge bus full of French, waits. This bus? On the ferry? I am not very confident. but everything went smoothly ...

Why the 4000 Islands? Because at this point the Mekong departs leaving the islands forming the middle of the bed. Only a few are inhabited or inhabitable because counting 4000 included bamboos rafts of 5mx5m!

It is not late, I decided to go walk around the island smoothly.
The island is beautiful, large, with lots of rice and lots of cows or buffaloes very very rural countryside. Then for the sake, I roam around without a helmet and any vehicle crossing!



Back at the hotel, just before nightfall, I learned that the best place for backpackers of 4000 islands to Don Det and Don Khon, the island further south! Shit, I'm not in the right place ... and finally I rationalized, as no vehicle can get to these 2 islands, what would I do with my motorcycle? I decided that I would go visit them tomorrow boat, because day cruises are organized.

http://pib-voyages.blogspot.hk/2011/11/jour-20-wat-phu-et-les-4000-iles.html

GPS: http://pib-cartes.blogspot.hk/2011/...l#!/2011/11/jour-20-champassak-4000-iles.html

 

[pib]

26/11: 4000 islands
Blue sky, hot, 30C

Actually today is not a motorbike day, but a boat day!

Visit backpackers island and other hammocks: Don Det and Don Kone .
They are talking about "waterfalls", the largest in asia blabla... anyway, they can been seen from the Laos-Cambodia road, so I will see that tomorrow on my way!

From Don Khong, it takes 1h30 downstream to reach Don Det. Don Kone is a bit further south. Alighting in Don Kone. The point of interest is in the extreme south of the island. By a path through the rice fields and forest , heading south . But it's hot !

Before reaching the far south , I found the famous railroad track that French had builts on both islands.

Explanations: around the islands , there are plenty of waterfalls across Mekong. The french project was to transform the Mekong as a great waterway from center Laos to Saigon in Vietnam. Those waterfalls cannot be cross by boat ... so the idea was to alight all goods on the northern shore, put them on a train, then load them again on the southern shore.

In the far south , the Mekong is huge, some rocks in the middle. Returning to the north of Don Kone, I find the bridge that joins the two islands. Less shadow, hot burning sun...

I cross over the bridge and through Don Det, following the route of the railway. I pass by near the famous bridge, called the "french bridge". It is not A bridge, it is the unloading crane placed on the northern shore... whaterver...

Tourists ... full of good sense : take photo with health mask.

Since the Mekong , I admire the huts , never without their sattelite TV! !

And then, the festival beatnik in his hammock ............

Back to Don Khong, upstream, it takes 2h00.


Carnet de voyages: Les 4000 iles

Cartes des voyages

 

[KTMphil]

Beautiful recollections, thanks for sharing

 

[pib]

27/11: Sôhk Dee Deuh Lao
Full clear sky, hot 30C

Heading to Cambodia, and no real idea where I'm heading to...
Lets quit Laos first!

I left Don Khong, crossing the Mekong by ferry and found the road 13. Following the instructions of the guesthouse, I found "the biggest falls of the Mekong" few km south, before the border. Entry fee: 20k Kip. Finally I reach the biggest falls in south east asia! luckily I did not come by boat and pay 110K Kip : just a big waterfall! Crap...




I reach to the border, How it happens:
1. Bike out of Laos. An office by the road side, but it is not the border yet! They look at paper from all angles for 5-10 minutes... then I ride for 500m further to stamp my passport and pay 2 USD because it is the weekend ! the joke.
=>I'm properly out of Laos

2.Arriving in Cambodia, the quarantine service with a temperature control: USD 1.

3. 2 customs officers stare at registration papers of the bike ... ask me the CdP
=> "Singapore bike , no CdP"
=> "oh ok , you can go" .
=> "stamp? no stamp"

4.Visa on arrival, 23USD because I have my own pic :-)
5. A stamp on the passport to get in, and USD 2 extra because it is week end (there is a nice metal box to put the $$$, but my $$$ go directly in the officer pocket, ahahaha)

Before leaving the check point, I have noticed a there is an european guy sitted between borders! with a board: "motorbike for free ." I'll go the see if he is alright: he bought a motorcycle in Laos (in the Lao way: no paper, no card, nothing) and it can not cross the border ! So he gives it for free ... he has already spent the night there, he can't go back to Laos likely because he has a single entry visa.

Time to leave Laos... What a tour I made there! just AWE-SOME, and it deserves all.

Carnet de voyages: Sohm Swaakohm Cambodge ? le long du Mekong

 

[pib]

The last part of my tour, in Cambodia:
http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-...-cambodia-lao-siem-reap-around-tonle-sap.html