2wheels
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LAOS REVISITED (or 'Escape from Loy Kaboom')
I've been thinking about my next ride through Laos and remembering how enjoyable the last one was, so I thought I'd share it with RideAsia readers,
hoping it may inspire those who haven't yet visited Laos to do so before it changes for the worse.
Next time I will ride with an Aussie mate from the early 1970s. We used to ride Central Oz together but he has never been to Laos.
I know he will love it.
For me, having recently parted with the trust Africa Twin as seen in their report, it's just a matter of "which bike will it be this time?"
So here's what I discovered in December 2010.
After three weeks of noisy fireworks leading up the Loy Khratong, it was time to fly the flag and retreat.
Laos beckoned.
DAY ONE (Sunday 14th November)
Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai to Mae Chan. 222 kms travelled.
As usual, I called in to the Charin Resort just after Mae Suai on 118 for an iced coffee and lemon meringue.
A BMW driver asked where I was going and after I answered 'to Laos' he dived into the boot of his BM, extracted
a six pack of Beer Lao cans and gave me one! I knew from that moment this was going to be a good ride.
With that start how could it go wrong?
David Learmonth had kindly invited me to stay at his place overnight and that's where I headed.
David was waiting on 1016 at Pasak Luang for me and escorted me to his
delightful home at Ban Mai.
Khun Fon and David were exceptional hosts and made me feel 'at home'. THANK YOU BOTH SO MUCH.
I look forward to reciprocating your kindness in the near future.
Two of their many pets, 'Singha' and 'Leo' demonstrated that Red Shirt and Yellow Shirt can indeed live in harmony.
Sitting outside beside the Temple and noticed this novice diligently raking up the dry leaves ......
.... then setting them alight! Oh dear.
DAY TWO (Monday 15th November)
Ban Mai along 4007 via San Ton Pao and down to Chiang Khong. 100 kms travelled.
A delightful ride with delightful scenery to be scened.
I arrived at Chiang Khong 10am and was across at Houei Xai by 11am, meeting 'Our Fearless Leader'
at the CK port and MotoRex at Lao Customs. Rex had a great suggestion; check in to a hotel first then
confront the Immigration formalities later. So we checked in at Udompone for 300baht, ate, relaxed, chatted
then confronted the formalities. Quite hassle-free; even though we arrived at Customs at the beginning
of their 90 minute lunch break! One friendly and sympathetic officer understood our plight and processed
the documents for us.
Once showered and refreshed I walked along the riverside to the Tavendeng restaurant.
My Lao adventure had commenced. A cold Beer Lao, some very pleasant food and great views
along the Mighty Mekong.
This was safe in the knowledge that Rex's KLX and my Alien Transporter were being well cared for by
hotel security.
Sorry, but I am one who gets a laugh from some menus.
And sure enough, when I returned to Udompone the security guard was indeed hard at work protecting
our bikes.
It seems like there's a short 'window of opportunity' between 11-30 and the real midnight!
DAY THREE (Tuesday 16th November)
Houei Xai to Luang Namtha to Muang Sing. 246 kms travelled.
Breakfast with MotoRex at the Pub How in Huay Xai; baguette of course!
Dad taking his daughters to school.
Dear old lady exiting her magnificent old teak home.
Time to 'hit the dirt'.
The first 65kms from Houei Xai were rough, then roadworks for about 5kms then the road improved.
Oops! Coming in to Luang Namtha.
Can't fool me; I know there's a bike in there.
Stopped at Luang Namtha to buy a Lao SIM card and rehydrate.
Not my favourite town, so decided to head for Muang Sing.
178 kms travelled.
The 58 kms to Muang Sing are on a good but lumpy bitumen surface.
The scenery is delightful, with the road snaking along valleys often following streams.
Discovered the Sin Cha Leun Hotel (60,000kip, 0205639783) at Muang Sing and was surprised to see that
there is plenty of accommodation in this small town. This hotel has quiet, clean rooms with friendly
staff and good bike security. Situated off the main road (if it deserves the name 'main'!)
I liked this town a lot. It was vibrant.
And those much appreciated hooks on the walls!
Walking around town as the sun was setting (The Golden Hour), I noticed a some commotion down the road
a bit. A guy was selling these snakes.
I saw a sign which read 'Muang Sing View Restaurant', so walked down the lane to discover what appeared
to be an abandoned old wooden shipwreck. Eventually I actually found people who 'worked' there and
the good lady eventually brought me some very nice food ..... and very warm Beer Lao!!
And this was the view.
DAY FOUR (Wednesday 17th November)
Muang Sing to Luang Namtha to Boten to Udom Xai.
221 kms travelled.
Breakfast is not served after 8-30 am at the Sin Cha Leun in Muang Sing.
However, the Honda had been washed by an anonymous staffer!
So it was a pleasant morning ride back along the delightful 17A.
Riding along the magnificent 138 towards Boten I noticed 4 large bikes rapidly approaching from behind.
I met up with them at the Boten border with China, just as they were entering China.
They didn't take their bikes in, but had a bus trip for a few hours.
I met these guys again and they said the bus trip was not enjoyable.
I was amazed at the modern and expensive development occurring at Boten.
Is it all Casino money?
Next stretch was 13 to Udom Xai.
I confess to being a bit concerned about this ride because it was a fair bitch last year (probably because
I attempted it in the dark!)
But this time it was relatively comfortable, the greatest danger being tour buses passing trucks
on blind curves in the dust. I was forced off the road along here but managed to stay upright.
As was my middle finger when pointed towards the van driver!
At Udom Xai I checked in to the relatively new Xaysan Hotel for 60,000 kip, cleaned up and went walking.
Eventually I found a small road-side food outlet, ensconced myself there with beer and camera and
watched the passing parade as the sun set.
I was starving, not having eaten all day (but had consumed lots of water).
So one of my three orders was 'herb fried chicken', which came with everything.
Hey, even Spiderman has do do his homework!
A fact that Mum seems resigned to!
DAY FIVE (Thursday 18th November)
Udom Xai along 13 to Luang Prabang. 195 kms travelled.
Riding out of town I spotted my four friends from the Boten ride, so stopped and chatted with them
while they ate breakfast. They are Malaysian riders, all professional men one of whom owns the
Sugeh Angkut Sdn. Bhd. Bike Shop in Selangor Malaysia. (Terry Kweh)
These four (Terry, Gary, Cheong and Lawrence) were all friendly and polite and we were to spend
more time together during our respective rides. They were riding two KTM 990s, a 2010 Versys and an ER6-N.
Incidentally, the 2010 Versys rider said the suspension of his bike, front and back, was 'bottoming out'
on the rough bits. 'Metal to metal', he said! Ouch! (I do believe the current model has a tougher suspension?)
They also said their KTMs were too heavy for the dirt roads in Laos.
Just out from Udom, in the fog, I spotted these noodles trying to dry.
Highway 13 from Udom was chopped up quite badly and offered fine talcum powder dust on the verges.
This was through to around Lak 32.
But some views were enjoyable.
Here I almost ate pressed ham for lunch.
One of a few work horses on 13 near Song Cha.
Then, through the dust, I spotted these cute little faces peering out from their humble little school.
So, being a retired 'Chalky', I stopped, parked the Alien Transporter on their school ground and remained there
for nearly an hour.
I offered an impromptu English and Geography lesson to the Junior class .....
.... and to the Senior class.
Not a teacher in site.
The students were diligently copying work some-one had left on the chalk board for them.
Then after about 30 minutes this young teacher arrived. We exchanged pleasantries and had a bit of a chat.
This is a one teacher school; and I can tell you, these guys earn there money! (Although this particular
young man seemed to have a somewhat carefree approach to his teaching style!)
I later discovered from another Lao teacher that he was earning the equivalent of 1,880 baht/month.
So why not be 'casual' about the job?
Onward towards Pak Mong.
At PM I had the misfortune to encounter the crudest, rudest, most vile Chinese women who apparently owns the
'restaurant' at the crossroads on the other side of the road as you ride in; right at the T junction.
Her uncouthness lost her five customers because, as I was trying my best not to throw a chair at her, my four
Malaysian friends arrived from the dust and I escorted them further down the road to a friendly, clean restaurant.
Another interesting chat with my new friends, then we went our own way again, but all to Luang Prabang.
View of Nam Oi river from bridge near Paknga on the delicious part of Highway 13 ....
... just as a tour boat passed underneath. 'That would be nice', I thought.
Arrived at Luang Prabang and saw the Famous Four and their bikes parked at a riverside restaurant.
'Hey Ron, let me buy you a beer'.
'Wow, that doesn't happen too often', I thought.
So I joined them, drank and chatted some more before searching for a place to sleep. (One has to have one's
priorities in order).
I checked in to the Hoxieng Guest House for 120,000 but 'only 100,000 for two nights'.
Nowhere to park the AT there but the staff directed me across the lane and onto the courtyard of another
related Guest House. Where I met the Famous Four again. So we took over the courtyard.
Then who should prowl past? The renowned and peripatetic 'Jimoi'. What a fountain of knowledge!
Then I heard the familiar sound of a Kawasaki 250; yes, MotoRex had arrived in town.
So a few more beers with Motorex, listening to his adventure which I hope to read about here soon.
Then a stroll down to a riverside restaurant to consume a steamed fish and a lemon juice while
watching the sun set on the Mekong.
DAY SIX (Friday 19th November)
about 12 kms travelled on foot!
I find Luang Prabang an exciting place which offers a great deal of variety and stimulation.
I like the place; others hate it.
So, armed with the Sony, I walked as far as my little legs would take me; after a baguette with bacon and salad
breakfast at Dara Market of course. (At 15,000 kip a go those baguette sellers sure are making a killing).
I have a baguette and hygiene story to tell ..... maybe later!
So here are some of the sites around Dara Market and the Mekong side of Luang Prabang.
I should have purchased one of these to help me combat the mosquitoes I would later encounter!
The Mini Moke. Probably the Moke Californian? 1295cc rocket ship and I'd say an excellent vehicle for this area.
(The Aussie Army was actually toying with a 4WD version at some stage but ..... )
I also saw a burgundy Citroen Traction Avant, ceased manufacture in 1957, cruising the streets but was unable to
catch up to it for a photo. Magnificent car which would have looked wonderful in pre 1970s Luang Prabang.
DAY SEVEN (Saturday 20th November)
Luang Prabang along 13 then 7 to Ponsavan 274 kms travelled.
After a good 'break' in LP I was ready to continue towards the Vietnam border via Ponsavan.
The first 60 kms from LP were ridden in thick fog over some badly cut up road, but there was a special moment along the way.
This little rate seller!
But I had only recently eaten back at LP.
And, as usual, soon there was a little crowd of delightful kids and adults present.
125 kms of winding road from LP then lunch at the Hwy 13 and Hwy 7 junction at Phou Khoon.
Then onto my very favourite ride along Hwy 7 towards Ponsavan.
The home ....
... the occupants ......
.... their view!
The only snake I encountered in Laos.
A lonely little petal, bravely making a solitary stand for Independence.
Pumpkin sellers along this section of 13.
And within seconds an audience!
And into Ponsavan. What a ride!
The Ponsavan area reminds me a great deal of Central Oz; there are even Eucalyptus trees growing.
What a booming town this is now. Surely the money isn't only coming from tourism? I believe a couple
of countries, including Australia, are mining in the area. Will research this for another thread.
I checked in to the Dokkhoune Hotel, which offers good bike security.
Whilst showering I noticed that someone had thoughtfully installed a power switch close to the shower nozzle.
Then across the road for a meal. I had seen these street urchins 'hanging around' looking hungry, so asked
the waiter if I could buy them some Pho. I asked her to set up a place at a nearby table. The boys 'woofed'
down the soup then walked to me and offered a deep wai of appreciation. Then when I checked my bill
I noticed the the nice lady had tried to overcharge me.
DAY EIGHT (Sunday 21st November)
Ponsavan along Hwy 7 via Muang Kham to the Vietnam border and return to Ponsavan. 262 kms travelled.
The morning ride started in thick, damp fog which forced me to ride without my spectacles which limited me
to about 100m visibility. Yet locals were flying past on their 100cc Hondas!
By around 9am the sun was beginning to burn the fog away and I could actually see where I was going.
Then out from the mist this little fella appeared. He was carrying large pieces of sugar can from somewhere
to somewhere else, bless him. He spoke an ethnic language but indicated that he would like some food.
Which brings us to the dilemma doesn't it? Give some money and run the risk of encouraging roadside begging?
Carry light weight food on tour? Ignore their pleading eyes? I weakened and as he walked away I quietly dropped
a few thousand kip into his bag. Hopefully he discovered this later during his busy day.
Then I encountered a pair of hedge-hogs walking my way. My eyesight isn't too good.
Father and son carrying grass (when dried for thatching?)
A friendly exchange and we all went our respective ways.
Then another encounter and friendly exchange.
Mum was out to collect water and her children went with her. The water was collected from a roadside outlet.
On towards the Vietnam border along Sunflower Avenue. Another great ride from Ponsavan to the border.
And at the border I chatted with the friendly officer for a while then U-turned back towards Ponsavan.
Near the border there is a restaurant up a steep stairway which offers great views into Vietnam.
And on the way back to Ponsavan I noticed these Pomegranates? growing on a roadside tree.
These lads were pushing the bicycle up very steep hills, not far from the Vietnam border.
The little fellow must have drawn the short straw; he was perspiring very heavily.
The load comprised of vegetables and a tire pump in the basket and a small bag of rice on the back rack.
A couple of good restaurants at Muang Khan. I chose this one that offered 'BBQ steak and vegetables'.
The vegetables are there on the left!
DAY NINE (Monday 22nd November)
Ponsavan and Plain of Jars then via Phou Khoon to Vang Vieng. 238 kms travelled.
A good meal at Craters restaurant. Nice setup there.
A restful sleep back at Dokkhoune, careful not to electrocute myself in the shower.
THEN THE BEGINNING OF ONE DAY IN MY LIFE WHICH WILL REMAIN ETCHED IN MY MEMORY FOR THE REST
OF MY LIFE. IN A VERY PLEASANT WAY TOO.
Rode the 10+ kms out to the Jars site through very heavy fog.
In planning this ride I had not anticipated fog in this area; it wasn't there this time last year.
But since being caught up in the fog at a number of other places en-route so far, I was actually hoping for
heavy fog at The Plain of Jars. My wish was granted. I was there at 7-30am and had the entire site to myself
until the first buses arrived around 9-30 as the fog was clearing.
The warning sign, best heeded.
The track.
And into this eerie, foggy, silent, landscape.
Bomb craters amongst the jars.
Some say that hundreds of jars were destroyed as a result of the bomb payloads being dropped over this area.
Others say only a few jars were destroyed.
I'll add some thoughts and quotes on a related thread later.
For now I'll let the Sony do the talking, hoping to share the special occasion with readers, especially those
who may never have the privilege of being at The Jars during heavy fog.
Trench-lines zigzag through the site.
More research notes on another thread.
I have read that the jars vary in size from around one metre in height to two and weigh from one tonne.
Made from conglomerate or sandstone.
Some say they were fired in the nearby cave and rolled out to their resting places.
Some say they were chiseled out 'in situ'.
Apparently only a few actually has stone lids. The majority, it is said, had lids made from timber which
has decayed over the centuries.
More research notes on another thread!
Actually, one of the things that interests me about this place is the mystery of it.
Yes, it's aesthetically wonderful but there seem to be so many unanswered questions that linger.
Then there's the 'less scientific' animistic beliefs of the local Hmong people to consider and respect.
The place is just so stimulating.
So why were the candles placed on this particular jar?
Oh,oh! Many spirits lurking in the fog? Must be careful here.
On to the cave. Spooky.
The Spirit House at the entrance had been visited earlier and amongst the offerings were some red grapes.
I spent about 30 minutes inside this cave; not digging and scratching around but trying to 'get the feel'
of the cave and to contemplate the activities that had occurred here since it was first used in the Bronze Age.
Some say bodies of The Nobility were cremated here then the ashes stored, together with personal items,
inside the jars. Some say the jars were 'fired' inside the cave.
Then, in a more sinister era, the cave was used for shelter during the bombings.
All in all, a very spiritual place. A place to be respected and paid homage.
More on that later in my travels!!
The roof of the cave has three holes.
Some say these were cut into the cave for ventilation because of the process of cremation.
Others say they are scars from direct bomb hits.
The Hmong animists have other explanations.
On another thread later!
A bomb fell about 20 metres from the cave entrance and left this crater.
Were the occupants of the cave detected and deliberately aimed at?
Was it a random drop?
Then, out from the gloom, appear these two local school boys.
They approached the cave entrance just as I was leaving and got quite a scare. Sorry boys.
They paid their respects to the Spirit House at the entrance then, to my surprise, entered the cave where
they remained, chirping away in excitement for a few minutes. Then they reappeared, pointed to something
I could not see above the cave entrance and disappeared right of stage (well off the marked track!)
I later passed them on the road from the Jars as they were cycling to school. We smiled and gave ourselves
'high fives'. What an exciting place they live in.
What a morning. What a privilege I was given.
I actually don't want to return to The Plain of Jars because things simply could not be better than what
I experienced there that morning. Well, falling snow over the site just may tempt my return.
Back to Ponsavan for a quick breakfast, load the bike and off to Vang Vieng.
So I thought.
Driving out of the Hotel carpark, suddenly no clutch!
The cable had finally given way after a couple of years of mountains and heavy loads.
When I bought the AT it came with a box of new spares, including a clutch cable.
Back in Chiang Mai, whilst packing for the tour, I had the spare cable in my hand; 'Take it or leave it'?
'Not too heavy and doesn't take up much room. Take it, Ron'. Good move.
And what did I discover a couple of hundred metres from the Hotel? A Honda bike shop.
The young mechanic replaced the cable for me in exchange for two bottle of Beer Lao. Plus a tip.
While waiting for him and considering how fortunate I had been so far this day, I spotted their collection of
new Wave motorbikes and noted the very reasonable asking prices.
Back along the wonderful Hwy 7 .....
... to the magnificent 'School on the Hill' near Phou Vieng that my then travelling mate Paul and I 'discovered' last year.
Paul has since completed his world tour and sold his BMW1200 and is very keen to resume long distance
riding asap. We enjoyed an unforgettable couple of hours there with the children last year. This year I was
pleased to see many of the same children (they haven't grown much) and also meet the three teachers.
The school is partly funded with Japanese money.
They remembered Paul and I and our respective bikes and were puzzled that Paul wasn't with me this time.
I tried to explain his absence just as a big bike roared past down on the highway. The kids screamed with
delight, ran to the edge of the hill and the bike continued on its way. Sadly, it wasn't Paul on his enormous black BMW.
Here are the views from the school yard. Lucky, lucky children and teachers.
Off Hwy 7 at Phou Khoon and headed towards Vang Vieng. But I was running late.
And I was beginning to perspire a lot and feel dizzy.
I had been careful to remain hydrated. 'Oh shyte', I thought as I rode this delightful section of Hwy 13 out from
Phou Khoon. 'I'm coming down with malaria'!!
The dizziness increased as the sun set and I was still far from Vang Vieng.
I had planned to cut across through Fauang and into Thailand at Tha Li. That's what I put on the Immigration papers.
But I was becoming very concerned about this dizziness and perspiring. I did not want to stop the bike for fear
of actually falling from it in the dark.
Second 'near death' experience along here when a tour bus decided my side of the road was his and I narrowly
avoided a head-on in the dark and the dust. Maybe those new Trail Wings tyres saved me.
The ride into VV from either side is not pleasant, especially at night in the dust while ill and sharing the road with
trucks, buses, speeding vans, unlit carts, pigs, goats, dogs, school kids walking home, cows. And the bloody insects!!
Made it. Didn't enjoy it. Feeling crook.
Checked in to the Phouangkham Hotel, where I stayed last year, excused myself at reception for my haggled
appearance and requested the quietest room in the house. That's room A309 guys.
Felt dizzy and weak climbing what seemed 46 flights of stairs to A309 but made it. Reception helped me bring
the saddlebags from the AT.
Luckily, the Hotel has a nice restaurant so after a severe clean up and much insect removal from every orifice
I zombied down and enjoyed a fish meal with no alcohol. Then a wonderful sleep. But still perspiring and dizzy.
DAY 10 Tuesday 23rd November
Stayed in Vang Vieng. Dizzy but about 8kms travelled on foot!
The morning view from the Phouangkham Hotel. They have free 'bottomless' coffee and Owantin at reception
and in their restaurant. And cookies.
Probably the quietest room in noisy VV.
Breakfast at their restaurant. Really friendly staff too.
I decided not to ride today but to try to stabilize myself (literally) and make a decision that night on where to ride
next day. So I walked around town and put the Sony to work.
The karst cliffs of VV are indeed spectacular and the town was buzzing with young Adventure Tourists into
their caving, rock climbing, rafting etc. Old fogies like me like to sit back and take in the scenery.
I discovered the Nong Bat restaurant was so peaceful, spacious and friendly compared with the raucous and
claustrophobic Sanaxay opposite.
I had made the decision to ride directly to Vientiane to have a medical check.
So back to the quietest room in town to rest my weary feet.
DAY ELEVEN (Wednesday 24th November)
Vang Vieng to Vientiane cross border at Nong Khai then along 211 via Sri Chiang Mai.
270 kms travelled.
They make delicious fresh spring rolls at the Phouangkham restaurant. That was breakfast.
Still feeling weird.
Back in Luang Prababg Jimoi had given me advice to turn off Hwy 13 at Hin Hoeup then head for the crossing
into Tha Li but I wasn't confident in my own health at this stage so decided to head to the capital for a check.
I stopped for Pho at a pleasant restaurant, which has an air-conditioned section, opposite the Ford dealership
just before the capital. It hadn't been a pleasant ride down, but incident free. Oh, apart from narrowly avoiding being side-swiped by yet another tour bus. But I reckon that's par for course on that particular road.
Now here's the strange thing. During the Pho meal (not in the air-con section) I began to come to my senses again.
I had regained my balance and the perspiring had ceased. I had not taken medication and had continued to
consume water and energy drinks as I had every day throughout the journey. I was now beginning to think
I did not have the symptoms of malaria, but whatever it was just might return at any time.
Always nice to see the remnants of the French colonization throughout Laos.
Very busy at the Friendship Bridge crossing into Thailand.
Well, not so friendly actually. A smart-**** Laos official decided to play games with me and asked me to sit
'for five minutes' while my bike paper was checked. 'Checking' involved placing it on table and ignoring it for
20 minutes after-which I approached him and asked if there was problem (knowing there wasn't).
'Bai lao' he said and laughed me away. Twenty minutes wasted.
What is it about these Immigration/Customs guys, in any country, who feel they must 'get their rocks off' by either intimidating or annoying innocent travelers? Whatever, I'm sure there are some deep and serious
psychological issues they are battling with throughout their pathetic lives.
Yes, that's Smart **** in the background.
So yet another delightful ride along 211 past Sri Chiang Mai.
It may have been delightful but it gave yet another 'near death' experience.
She was driving a nondescript Nissan or Datsun from a small soi on my left.
She had made the effort to stop before entering 211, eyeballed me then drove out in front of me!
Big red, white and blue bike. Two lights on. Horn blaring. Clear day. Not a tiny body riding the bike.
She came sooooo close to wearing an Africa Twin and I was sooooo glad I had put new front and rear brake
calipers on before the journey. You just get that feeling that they are going to do that, don't you?
You can eyeball each other but they'll still pull out into your path!
Noticed this massive structure on the Laos side opposite Sri CM.
I had no idea what is was or where it was really.
I didn't notice it last year and didn't have maps with me this year (nor GPS).
Later, in the next Guest House I was informed it was a Hotel/Casino in Vientiane.
As in 2009 I was pleased to arrive at the wonderful Poopae Ruenmaithai Guest House, just before San Khoom,
where I was asked what I wanted to pay for my favourite room! I happily offered 500 baht, adding that I would
eat and drink from their restaurant.
Which, in my room, I proceeded to do. This is the view from the bedroom, looking back towards Sri Chiang Mai.
And this is a view from their restaurant.
My saddlebags, meanwhile, had been delivered to my room by one of the staff.
Mum and Dad were working a Thai BBQ restaurant in Los Angeles; making a killing apparently.
Their sons and daughters were maintaining the Guest House.
Sitting there chatting and watching the sunset, we spotted a soccer ball floating down the Mekong.
One of the lads stripped to his briefs and jumped into the water to retrieve the ball .....
.... and was spat out 100 metres further down the river bank the proud owner of a new soccer ball.
He was a Chelsea supporter too.
My company for the night.
Moonlight on the Mekong, from my bedroom window.
DAY TWELVE (Friday 26th November)
Sri Chiang Mai on 211 to Chiang Khan then 201 to Loei then 203 via Na Haeo then 1268 to Bna Khok then 1083 to Na Noi
(ridden in the dark).
Must return to this area and see it in daylight!
Saw a few large snakes on 1083 and surprised cows sleeping on the road (vice-versa actually).
About 8pm I pulled up at a fruit seller's stall in the main street of Na Noi to ask if he knew a Guest House or Hotel.
He retrieved his little Honda and took me what turned out to be a 'short time' dive next to the Post Office on the
main street of town. Very rude and unhelpful people in the 'restaurant' who laughed at my attempt to order
from their Thai language menu. I didn't eat there, had one 55 baht large Singha and kept my 5 baht change.
I exchanged 300 good baht for a slab of Na Noi concrete and a pillow.
However, it was a good sleep after 511 kms.
DAY 13 (Saturday 27th November)
Along 1216 then 101 to Rong Kwang and 103 to Ngao then the mind numbing Hwy 1 to 120 then onto
the 118 speedway and into Chiang Mai.
Travelled 359 kms.
Along 1216 I noticed this little pond beside the road which had obviously been used by local villagers to celebrate Loy Krathong. Now that's the way to do it!
Total distance 2930 kms.
Great ride. Great bike. Great country.
Oh, the dizziness and perspiring after Phonsavan?
I put it down to me inhaling a Phi back at the Plain of Jars.
So do my Thai friends whom I have told this story too.
I've been thinking about my next ride through Laos and remembering how enjoyable the last one was, so I thought I'd share it with RideAsia readers,
hoping it may inspire those who haven't yet visited Laos to do so before it changes for the worse.
Next time I will ride with an Aussie mate from the early 1970s. We used to ride Central Oz together but he has never been to Laos.
I know he will love it.
For me, having recently parted with the trust Africa Twin as seen in their report, it's just a matter of "which bike will it be this time?"
So here's what I discovered in December 2010.
After three weeks of noisy fireworks leading up the Loy Khratong, it was time to fly the flag and retreat.
Laos beckoned.
DAY ONE (Sunday 14th November)
Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai to Mae Chan. 222 kms travelled.
As usual, I called in to the Charin Resort just after Mae Suai on 118 for an iced coffee and lemon meringue.
A BMW driver asked where I was going and after I answered 'to Laos' he dived into the boot of his BM, extracted
a six pack of Beer Lao cans and gave me one! I knew from that moment this was going to be a good ride.
With that start how could it go wrong?
David Learmonth had kindly invited me to stay at his place overnight and that's where I headed.
David was waiting on 1016 at Pasak Luang for me and escorted me to his
delightful home at Ban Mai.
Khun Fon and David were exceptional hosts and made me feel 'at home'. THANK YOU BOTH SO MUCH.
I look forward to reciprocating your kindness in the near future.
Two of their many pets, 'Singha' and 'Leo' demonstrated that Red Shirt and Yellow Shirt can indeed live in harmony.
Sitting outside beside the Temple and noticed this novice diligently raking up the dry leaves ......
.... then setting them alight! Oh dear.
DAY TWO (Monday 15th November)
Ban Mai along 4007 via San Ton Pao and down to Chiang Khong. 100 kms travelled.
A delightful ride with delightful scenery to be scened.
I arrived at Chiang Khong 10am and was across at Houei Xai by 11am, meeting 'Our Fearless Leader'
at the CK port and MotoRex at Lao Customs. Rex had a great suggestion; check in to a hotel first then
confront the Immigration formalities later. So we checked in at Udompone for 300baht, ate, relaxed, chatted
then confronted the formalities. Quite hassle-free; even though we arrived at Customs at the beginning
of their 90 minute lunch break! One friendly and sympathetic officer understood our plight and processed
the documents for us.
Once showered and refreshed I walked along the riverside to the Tavendeng restaurant.
My Lao adventure had commenced. A cold Beer Lao, some very pleasant food and great views
along the Mighty Mekong.
This was safe in the knowledge that Rex's KLX and my Alien Transporter were being well cared for by
hotel security.
Sorry, but I am one who gets a laugh from some menus.
And sure enough, when I returned to Udompone the security guard was indeed hard at work protecting
our bikes.
It seems like there's a short 'window of opportunity' between 11-30 and the real midnight!
DAY THREE (Tuesday 16th November)
Houei Xai to Luang Namtha to Muang Sing. 246 kms travelled.
Breakfast with MotoRex at the Pub How in Huay Xai; baguette of course!
Dad taking his daughters to school.
Dear old lady exiting her magnificent old teak home.
Time to 'hit the dirt'.
The first 65kms from Houei Xai were rough, then roadworks for about 5kms then the road improved.
Oops! Coming in to Luang Namtha.
Can't fool me; I know there's a bike in there.
Stopped at Luang Namtha to buy a Lao SIM card and rehydrate.
Not my favourite town, so decided to head for Muang Sing.
178 kms travelled.
The 58 kms to Muang Sing are on a good but lumpy bitumen surface.
The scenery is delightful, with the road snaking along valleys often following streams.
Discovered the Sin Cha Leun Hotel (60,000kip, 0205639783) at Muang Sing and was surprised to see that
there is plenty of accommodation in this small town. This hotel has quiet, clean rooms with friendly
staff and good bike security. Situated off the main road (if it deserves the name 'main'!)
I liked this town a lot. It was vibrant.
And those much appreciated hooks on the walls!
Walking around town as the sun was setting (The Golden Hour), I noticed a some commotion down the road
a bit. A guy was selling these snakes.
I saw a sign which read 'Muang Sing View Restaurant', so walked down the lane to discover what appeared
to be an abandoned old wooden shipwreck. Eventually I actually found people who 'worked' there and
the good lady eventually brought me some very nice food ..... and very warm Beer Lao!!
And this was the view.
DAY FOUR (Wednesday 17th November)
Muang Sing to Luang Namtha to Boten to Udom Xai.
221 kms travelled.
Breakfast is not served after 8-30 am at the Sin Cha Leun in Muang Sing.
However, the Honda had been washed by an anonymous staffer!
So it was a pleasant morning ride back along the delightful 17A.
Riding along the magnificent 138 towards Boten I noticed 4 large bikes rapidly approaching from behind.
I met up with them at the Boten border with China, just as they were entering China.
They didn't take their bikes in, but had a bus trip for a few hours.
I met these guys again and they said the bus trip was not enjoyable.
I was amazed at the modern and expensive development occurring at Boten.
Is it all Casino money?
Next stretch was 13 to Udom Xai.
I confess to being a bit concerned about this ride because it was a fair bitch last year (probably because
I attempted it in the dark!)
But this time it was relatively comfortable, the greatest danger being tour buses passing trucks
on blind curves in the dust. I was forced off the road along here but managed to stay upright.
As was my middle finger when pointed towards the van driver!
At Udom Xai I checked in to the relatively new Xaysan Hotel for 60,000 kip, cleaned up and went walking.
Eventually I found a small road-side food outlet, ensconced myself there with beer and camera and
watched the passing parade as the sun set.
I was starving, not having eaten all day (but had consumed lots of water).
So one of my three orders was 'herb fried chicken', which came with everything.
Hey, even Spiderman has do do his homework!
A fact that Mum seems resigned to!
DAY FIVE (Thursday 18th November)
Udom Xai along 13 to Luang Prabang. 195 kms travelled.
Riding out of town I spotted my four friends from the Boten ride, so stopped and chatted with them
while they ate breakfast. They are Malaysian riders, all professional men one of whom owns the
Sugeh Angkut Sdn. Bhd. Bike Shop in Selangor Malaysia. (Terry Kweh)
These four (Terry, Gary, Cheong and Lawrence) were all friendly and polite and we were to spend
more time together during our respective rides. They were riding two KTM 990s, a 2010 Versys and an ER6-N.
Incidentally, the 2010 Versys rider said the suspension of his bike, front and back, was 'bottoming out'
on the rough bits. 'Metal to metal', he said! Ouch! (I do believe the current model has a tougher suspension?)
They also said their KTMs were too heavy for the dirt roads in Laos.
Just out from Udom, in the fog, I spotted these noodles trying to dry.
Highway 13 from Udom was chopped up quite badly and offered fine talcum powder dust on the verges.
This was through to around Lak 32.
But some views were enjoyable.
Here I almost ate pressed ham for lunch.
One of a few work horses on 13 near Song Cha.
Then, through the dust, I spotted these cute little faces peering out from their humble little school.
So, being a retired 'Chalky', I stopped, parked the Alien Transporter on their school ground and remained there
for nearly an hour.
I offered an impromptu English and Geography lesson to the Junior class .....
.... and to the Senior class.
Not a teacher in site.
The students were diligently copying work some-one had left on the chalk board for them.
Then after about 30 minutes this young teacher arrived. We exchanged pleasantries and had a bit of a chat.
This is a one teacher school; and I can tell you, these guys earn there money! (Although this particular
young man seemed to have a somewhat carefree approach to his teaching style!)
I later discovered from another Lao teacher that he was earning the equivalent of 1,880 baht/month.
So why not be 'casual' about the job?
Onward towards Pak Mong.
At PM I had the misfortune to encounter the crudest, rudest, most vile Chinese women who apparently owns the
'restaurant' at the crossroads on the other side of the road as you ride in; right at the T junction.
Her uncouthness lost her five customers because, as I was trying my best not to throw a chair at her, my four
Malaysian friends arrived from the dust and I escorted them further down the road to a friendly, clean restaurant.
Another interesting chat with my new friends, then we went our own way again, but all to Luang Prabang.
View of Nam Oi river from bridge near Paknga on the delicious part of Highway 13 ....
... just as a tour boat passed underneath. 'That would be nice', I thought.
Arrived at Luang Prabang and saw the Famous Four and their bikes parked at a riverside restaurant.
'Hey Ron, let me buy you a beer'.
'Wow, that doesn't happen too often', I thought.
So I joined them, drank and chatted some more before searching for a place to sleep. (One has to have one's
priorities in order).
I checked in to the Hoxieng Guest House for 120,000 but 'only 100,000 for two nights'.
Nowhere to park the AT there but the staff directed me across the lane and onto the courtyard of another
related Guest House. Where I met the Famous Four again. So we took over the courtyard.
Then who should prowl past? The renowned and peripatetic 'Jimoi'. What a fountain of knowledge!
Then I heard the familiar sound of a Kawasaki 250; yes, MotoRex had arrived in town.
So a few more beers with Motorex, listening to his adventure which I hope to read about here soon.
Then a stroll down to a riverside restaurant to consume a steamed fish and a lemon juice while
watching the sun set on the Mekong.
DAY SIX (Friday 19th November)
about 12 kms travelled on foot!
I find Luang Prabang an exciting place which offers a great deal of variety and stimulation.
I like the place; others hate it.
So, armed with the Sony, I walked as far as my little legs would take me; after a baguette with bacon and salad
breakfast at Dara Market of course. (At 15,000 kip a go those baguette sellers sure are making a killing).
I have a baguette and hygiene story to tell ..... maybe later!
So here are some of the sites around Dara Market and the Mekong side of Luang Prabang.
I should have purchased one of these to help me combat the mosquitoes I would later encounter!
The Mini Moke. Probably the Moke Californian? 1295cc rocket ship and I'd say an excellent vehicle for this area.
(The Aussie Army was actually toying with a 4WD version at some stage but ..... )
I also saw a burgundy Citroen Traction Avant, ceased manufacture in 1957, cruising the streets but was unable to
catch up to it for a photo. Magnificent car which would have looked wonderful in pre 1970s Luang Prabang.
DAY SEVEN (Saturday 20th November)
Luang Prabang along 13 then 7 to Ponsavan 274 kms travelled.
After a good 'break' in LP I was ready to continue towards the Vietnam border via Ponsavan.
The first 60 kms from LP were ridden in thick fog over some badly cut up road, but there was a special moment along the way.
This little rate seller!
But I had only recently eaten back at LP.
And, as usual, soon there was a little crowd of delightful kids and adults present.
125 kms of winding road from LP then lunch at the Hwy 13 and Hwy 7 junction at Phou Khoon.
Then onto my very favourite ride along Hwy 7 towards Ponsavan.
The home ....
... the occupants ......
.... their view!
The only snake I encountered in Laos.
A lonely little petal, bravely making a solitary stand for Independence.
Pumpkin sellers along this section of 13.
And within seconds an audience!
And into Ponsavan. What a ride!
The Ponsavan area reminds me a great deal of Central Oz; there are even Eucalyptus trees growing.
What a booming town this is now. Surely the money isn't only coming from tourism? I believe a couple
of countries, including Australia, are mining in the area. Will research this for another thread.
I checked in to the Dokkhoune Hotel, which offers good bike security.
Whilst showering I noticed that someone had thoughtfully installed a power switch close to the shower nozzle.
Then across the road for a meal. I had seen these street urchins 'hanging around' looking hungry, so asked
the waiter if I could buy them some Pho. I asked her to set up a place at a nearby table. The boys 'woofed'
down the soup then walked to me and offered a deep wai of appreciation. Then when I checked my bill
I noticed the the nice lady had tried to overcharge me.
DAY EIGHT (Sunday 21st November)
Ponsavan along Hwy 7 via Muang Kham to the Vietnam border and return to Ponsavan. 262 kms travelled.
The morning ride started in thick, damp fog which forced me to ride without my spectacles which limited me
to about 100m visibility. Yet locals were flying past on their 100cc Hondas!
By around 9am the sun was beginning to burn the fog away and I could actually see where I was going.
Then out from the mist this little fella appeared. He was carrying large pieces of sugar can from somewhere
to somewhere else, bless him. He spoke an ethnic language but indicated that he would like some food.
Which brings us to the dilemma doesn't it? Give some money and run the risk of encouraging roadside begging?
Carry light weight food on tour? Ignore their pleading eyes? I weakened and as he walked away I quietly dropped
a few thousand kip into his bag. Hopefully he discovered this later during his busy day.
Then I encountered a pair of hedge-hogs walking my way. My eyesight isn't too good.
Father and son carrying grass (when dried for thatching?)
A friendly exchange and we all went our respective ways.
Then another encounter and friendly exchange.
Mum was out to collect water and her children went with her. The water was collected from a roadside outlet.
On towards the Vietnam border along Sunflower Avenue. Another great ride from Ponsavan to the border.
And at the border I chatted with the friendly officer for a while then U-turned back towards Ponsavan.
Near the border there is a restaurant up a steep stairway which offers great views into Vietnam.
And on the way back to Ponsavan I noticed these Pomegranates? growing on a roadside tree.
These lads were pushing the bicycle up very steep hills, not far from the Vietnam border.
The little fellow must have drawn the short straw; he was perspiring very heavily.
The load comprised of vegetables and a tire pump in the basket and a small bag of rice on the back rack.
A couple of good restaurants at Muang Khan. I chose this one that offered 'BBQ steak and vegetables'.
The vegetables are there on the left!
DAY NINE (Monday 22nd November)
Ponsavan and Plain of Jars then via Phou Khoon to Vang Vieng. 238 kms travelled.
A good meal at Craters restaurant. Nice setup there.
A restful sleep back at Dokkhoune, careful not to electrocute myself in the shower.
THEN THE BEGINNING OF ONE DAY IN MY LIFE WHICH WILL REMAIN ETCHED IN MY MEMORY FOR THE REST
OF MY LIFE. IN A VERY PLEASANT WAY TOO.
Rode the 10+ kms out to the Jars site through very heavy fog.
In planning this ride I had not anticipated fog in this area; it wasn't there this time last year.
But since being caught up in the fog at a number of other places en-route so far, I was actually hoping for
heavy fog at The Plain of Jars. My wish was granted. I was there at 7-30am and had the entire site to myself
until the first buses arrived around 9-30 as the fog was clearing.
The warning sign, best heeded.
The track.
And into this eerie, foggy, silent, landscape.
Bomb craters amongst the jars.
Some say that hundreds of jars were destroyed as a result of the bomb payloads being dropped over this area.
Others say only a few jars were destroyed.
I'll add some thoughts and quotes on a related thread later.
For now I'll let the Sony do the talking, hoping to share the special occasion with readers, especially those
who may never have the privilege of being at The Jars during heavy fog.
Trench-lines zigzag through the site.
More research notes on another thread.
I have read that the jars vary in size from around one metre in height to two and weigh from one tonne.
Made from conglomerate or sandstone.
Some say they were fired in the nearby cave and rolled out to their resting places.
Some say they were chiseled out 'in situ'.
Apparently only a few actually has stone lids. The majority, it is said, had lids made from timber which
has decayed over the centuries.
More research notes on another thread!
Actually, one of the things that interests me about this place is the mystery of it.
Yes, it's aesthetically wonderful but there seem to be so many unanswered questions that linger.
Then there's the 'less scientific' animistic beliefs of the local Hmong people to consider and respect.
The place is just so stimulating.
So why were the candles placed on this particular jar?
Oh,oh! Many spirits lurking in the fog? Must be careful here.
On to the cave. Spooky.
The Spirit House at the entrance had been visited earlier and amongst the offerings were some red grapes.
I spent about 30 minutes inside this cave; not digging and scratching around but trying to 'get the feel'
of the cave and to contemplate the activities that had occurred here since it was first used in the Bronze Age.
Some say bodies of The Nobility were cremated here then the ashes stored, together with personal items,
inside the jars. Some say the jars were 'fired' inside the cave.
Then, in a more sinister era, the cave was used for shelter during the bombings.
All in all, a very spiritual place. A place to be respected and paid homage.
More on that later in my travels!!
The roof of the cave has three holes.
Some say these were cut into the cave for ventilation because of the process of cremation.
Others say they are scars from direct bomb hits.
The Hmong animists have other explanations.
On another thread later!
A bomb fell about 20 metres from the cave entrance and left this crater.
Were the occupants of the cave detected and deliberately aimed at?
Was it a random drop?
Then, out from the gloom, appear these two local school boys.
They approached the cave entrance just as I was leaving and got quite a scare. Sorry boys.
They paid their respects to the Spirit House at the entrance then, to my surprise, entered the cave where
they remained, chirping away in excitement for a few minutes. Then they reappeared, pointed to something
I could not see above the cave entrance and disappeared right of stage (well off the marked track!)
I later passed them on the road from the Jars as they were cycling to school. We smiled and gave ourselves
'high fives'. What an exciting place they live in.
What a morning. What a privilege I was given.
I actually don't want to return to The Plain of Jars because things simply could not be better than what
I experienced there that morning. Well, falling snow over the site just may tempt my return.
Back to Ponsavan for a quick breakfast, load the bike and off to Vang Vieng.
So I thought.
Driving out of the Hotel carpark, suddenly no clutch!
The cable had finally given way after a couple of years of mountains and heavy loads.
When I bought the AT it came with a box of new spares, including a clutch cable.
Back in Chiang Mai, whilst packing for the tour, I had the spare cable in my hand; 'Take it or leave it'?
'Not too heavy and doesn't take up much room. Take it, Ron'. Good move.
And what did I discover a couple of hundred metres from the Hotel? A Honda bike shop.
The young mechanic replaced the cable for me in exchange for two bottle of Beer Lao. Plus a tip.
While waiting for him and considering how fortunate I had been so far this day, I spotted their collection of
new Wave motorbikes and noted the very reasonable asking prices.
Back along the wonderful Hwy 7 .....
... to the magnificent 'School on the Hill' near Phou Vieng that my then travelling mate Paul and I 'discovered' last year.
Paul has since completed his world tour and sold his BMW1200 and is very keen to resume long distance
riding asap. We enjoyed an unforgettable couple of hours there with the children last year. This year I was
pleased to see many of the same children (they haven't grown much) and also meet the three teachers.
The school is partly funded with Japanese money.
They remembered Paul and I and our respective bikes and were puzzled that Paul wasn't with me this time.
I tried to explain his absence just as a big bike roared past down on the highway. The kids screamed with
delight, ran to the edge of the hill and the bike continued on its way. Sadly, it wasn't Paul on his enormous black BMW.
Here are the views from the school yard. Lucky, lucky children and teachers.
Off Hwy 7 at Phou Khoon and headed towards Vang Vieng. But I was running late.
And I was beginning to perspire a lot and feel dizzy.
I had been careful to remain hydrated. 'Oh shyte', I thought as I rode this delightful section of Hwy 13 out from
Phou Khoon. 'I'm coming down with malaria'!!
The dizziness increased as the sun set and I was still far from Vang Vieng.
I had planned to cut across through Fauang and into Thailand at Tha Li. That's what I put on the Immigration papers.
But I was becoming very concerned about this dizziness and perspiring. I did not want to stop the bike for fear
of actually falling from it in the dark.
Second 'near death' experience along here when a tour bus decided my side of the road was his and I narrowly
avoided a head-on in the dark and the dust. Maybe those new Trail Wings tyres saved me.
The ride into VV from either side is not pleasant, especially at night in the dust while ill and sharing the road with
trucks, buses, speeding vans, unlit carts, pigs, goats, dogs, school kids walking home, cows. And the bloody insects!!
Made it. Didn't enjoy it. Feeling crook.
Checked in to the Phouangkham Hotel, where I stayed last year, excused myself at reception for my haggled
appearance and requested the quietest room in the house. That's room A309 guys.
Felt dizzy and weak climbing what seemed 46 flights of stairs to A309 but made it. Reception helped me bring
the saddlebags from the AT.
Luckily, the Hotel has a nice restaurant so after a severe clean up and much insect removal from every orifice
I zombied down and enjoyed a fish meal with no alcohol. Then a wonderful sleep. But still perspiring and dizzy.
DAY 10 Tuesday 23rd November
Stayed in Vang Vieng. Dizzy but about 8kms travelled on foot!
The morning view from the Phouangkham Hotel. They have free 'bottomless' coffee and Owantin at reception
and in their restaurant. And cookies.
Probably the quietest room in noisy VV.
Breakfast at their restaurant. Really friendly staff too.
I decided not to ride today but to try to stabilize myself (literally) and make a decision that night on where to ride
next day. So I walked around town and put the Sony to work.
The karst cliffs of VV are indeed spectacular and the town was buzzing with young Adventure Tourists into
their caving, rock climbing, rafting etc. Old fogies like me like to sit back and take in the scenery.
I discovered the Nong Bat restaurant was so peaceful, spacious and friendly compared with the raucous and
claustrophobic Sanaxay opposite.
I had made the decision to ride directly to Vientiane to have a medical check.
So back to the quietest room in town to rest my weary feet.
DAY ELEVEN (Wednesday 24th November)
Vang Vieng to Vientiane cross border at Nong Khai then along 211 via Sri Chiang Mai.
270 kms travelled.
They make delicious fresh spring rolls at the Phouangkham restaurant. That was breakfast.
Still feeling weird.
Back in Luang Prababg Jimoi had given me advice to turn off Hwy 13 at Hin Hoeup then head for the crossing
into Tha Li but I wasn't confident in my own health at this stage so decided to head to the capital for a check.
I stopped for Pho at a pleasant restaurant, which has an air-conditioned section, opposite the Ford dealership
just before the capital. It hadn't been a pleasant ride down, but incident free. Oh, apart from narrowly avoiding being side-swiped by yet another tour bus. But I reckon that's par for course on that particular road.
Now here's the strange thing. During the Pho meal (not in the air-con section) I began to come to my senses again.
I had regained my balance and the perspiring had ceased. I had not taken medication and had continued to
consume water and energy drinks as I had every day throughout the journey. I was now beginning to think
I did not have the symptoms of malaria, but whatever it was just might return at any time.
Always nice to see the remnants of the French colonization throughout Laos.
Very busy at the Friendship Bridge crossing into Thailand.
Well, not so friendly actually. A smart-**** Laos official decided to play games with me and asked me to sit
'for five minutes' while my bike paper was checked. 'Checking' involved placing it on table and ignoring it for
20 minutes after-which I approached him and asked if there was problem (knowing there wasn't).
'Bai lao' he said and laughed me away. Twenty minutes wasted.
What is it about these Immigration/Customs guys, in any country, who feel they must 'get their rocks off' by either intimidating or annoying innocent travelers? Whatever, I'm sure there are some deep and serious
psychological issues they are battling with throughout their pathetic lives.
Yes, that's Smart **** in the background.
So yet another delightful ride along 211 past Sri Chiang Mai.
It may have been delightful but it gave yet another 'near death' experience.
She was driving a nondescript Nissan or Datsun from a small soi on my left.
She had made the effort to stop before entering 211, eyeballed me then drove out in front of me!
Big red, white and blue bike. Two lights on. Horn blaring. Clear day. Not a tiny body riding the bike.
She came sooooo close to wearing an Africa Twin and I was sooooo glad I had put new front and rear brake
calipers on before the journey. You just get that feeling that they are going to do that, don't you?
You can eyeball each other but they'll still pull out into your path!
Noticed this massive structure on the Laos side opposite Sri CM.
I had no idea what is was or where it was really.
I didn't notice it last year and didn't have maps with me this year (nor GPS).
Later, in the next Guest House I was informed it was a Hotel/Casino in Vientiane.
As in 2009 I was pleased to arrive at the wonderful Poopae Ruenmaithai Guest House, just before San Khoom,
where I was asked what I wanted to pay for my favourite room! I happily offered 500 baht, adding that I would
eat and drink from their restaurant.
Which, in my room, I proceeded to do. This is the view from the bedroom, looking back towards Sri Chiang Mai.
And this is a view from their restaurant.
My saddlebags, meanwhile, had been delivered to my room by one of the staff.
Mum and Dad were working a Thai BBQ restaurant in Los Angeles; making a killing apparently.
Their sons and daughters were maintaining the Guest House.
Sitting there chatting and watching the sunset, we spotted a soccer ball floating down the Mekong.
One of the lads stripped to his briefs and jumped into the water to retrieve the ball .....
.... and was spat out 100 metres further down the river bank the proud owner of a new soccer ball.
He was a Chelsea supporter too.
My company for the night.
Moonlight on the Mekong, from my bedroom window.
DAY TWELVE (Friday 26th November)
Sri Chiang Mai on 211 to Chiang Khan then 201 to Loei then 203 via Na Haeo then 1268 to Bna Khok then 1083 to Na Noi
(ridden in the dark).
Must return to this area and see it in daylight!
Saw a few large snakes on 1083 and surprised cows sleeping on the road (vice-versa actually).
About 8pm I pulled up at a fruit seller's stall in the main street of Na Noi to ask if he knew a Guest House or Hotel.
He retrieved his little Honda and took me what turned out to be a 'short time' dive next to the Post Office on the
main street of town. Very rude and unhelpful people in the 'restaurant' who laughed at my attempt to order
from their Thai language menu. I didn't eat there, had one 55 baht large Singha and kept my 5 baht change.
I exchanged 300 good baht for a slab of Na Noi concrete and a pillow.
However, it was a good sleep after 511 kms.
DAY 13 (Saturday 27th November)
Along 1216 then 101 to Rong Kwang and 103 to Ngao then the mind numbing Hwy 1 to 120 then onto
the 118 speedway and into Chiang Mai.
Travelled 359 kms.
Along 1216 I noticed this little pond beside the road which had obviously been used by local villagers to celebrate Loy Krathong. Now that's the way to do it!
Total distance 2930 kms.
Great ride. Great bike. Great country.
Oh, the dizziness and perspiring after Phonsavan?
I put it down to me inhaling a Phi back at the Plain of Jars.
So do my Thai friends whom I have told this story too.
