Lak Xao to Who Knows Where off road

bsacbob

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Chiang Rai
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Day 8 Lak Xao to Who Knows Where


423 Km 10 1/2 hours





Pretty excited this morning, interesting route ahead with a nice camping spot in mind so after a breakfast of something on a stick i bid farewell to my ever smiling landlady at the Souriya Hotel.

Leaving town passed several more beautiful looking temples i guess money flowing from Vietnam helps boost the local economy










The first sections all graded so i guess this time next year will be paved










Hotel on the edge of town for next time







Brickworks



Soon onto the red dirt







Again huge amount of work going on creating new highways






One of the main features of this ride is the flooded forest area's that had an eerie look about them, but a great habitat for Giant Snakeheads methinks



This guy had a bunch of black butterflies following him you can just about make out in the picture



Strange but beautiful








Locals boys fishing








Huge amounts of land flooded as part of the power station dam



The bridge crossing the controversial Nam Theun Reservoir







Many Guesthouses in this area





New temple under construction





monks living accommodation



Lot's of small communities along the way, but kept me thinking what the hell do these people do to sustain themselves with almost no farming land still above water





So many small short time looking hotels along the route, but looked a bit upmarket for truckers





Would like to take this picture again in the rainy season



Disused school or workers accommodation





Not sure of the function of this but part of the waterway control i think.



Now this is when things started to get interesting, i had laid a route across the reservoir and things started to look promising






Although the GPS was having a hard time of it but still on terra-firma



But not for long, closer inspection revealed the end of this attempt






So back i went to the paved road then started down the finger along the reservoir




Pretty nice surface so my hopes are up








Abandoned office, i presume for the logging company








Still nice graded road







Reached the village of Ban Don, in it's time this place must have been buzzing, but now the logging is finished it is slowly turning to a ghost town although i could hear a big Songkran party going on somewhere




Unusual to see a covered stairway like this






Once past the village it was old logging trails and the GPS was blank




These tree's had painted arrows pointing to the right but the left trail was more used, so left it was




Old workers camp



Not so well used



Then opened to this



Dead end but almost reached the water crossing but the track had been deliberately blocked by trees





Turned back a way and tried another trail, but brought me to this



Logging barge crossing, flicked over to Don's map and could see i was on the right path but no way across









No other way to be seen



So it was a another turn around

Stopped at the Fuel drum back in the village of Ban Don and asked if their was another trail pointing to the view on my GPS. Nothing doing so plan B





Got back to the main road, and a nice concrete paved section down to the controversial Nam Theun Hydrostation










Moving quickly on the nice surface i was making up time after my earlier efforts













This is where i was intending to pop out from the logging trail, so near yet so far








Anyway pushing on to the nice camp site !




The camp site is actually on part of the HCM Trail so i was looking forward to spending the night along this legendary roadway

WTF this is it !!!! Don you need to edit your map mate, although i was using an old one "good camping by river" the camp site resembled the local trash dump and smelled like one, the river had been dammed up down stream and was more like a swamp than a river





Locals lads looking through the garbage




Not what i had imagined so it was plan C, well i had no bloody plan C so i backtracked, five hours wasted so far.





It was starting to get a little late in the day, i was knackered and looking at the GPS Bouarapha was the obvious choice for the night

But to get there i had this to cross





I watched for a while to figure out my options, a couple of the local hero's has already drowned their bikes as i approached and as i watched the more successful it was clear it was very rocky. Short legs, rocky and tired. Not today young Bob








Then i noticed a canoe ferry that was to be my saviour

I asked if he would be ok with my bike all loaded up, stupid question !!!







Still some of the braver locals had a shot at the crossing






My taxi was approaching as i viewed the show








I could have camped there and just watched them all day !!


Anyway all aboard







Cute girl collection the water for the evening and a cute smile, maybe camping was a good idea









Once across it was red bull and pepsi time




If you was to take a look at the GPX file and look at my speeds you would notice a sudden injection of pace i arrived at Bouarapha but no accommodation was to be found, looking at the GPS i needed a plan D, so Thakhet was to be my mission

The only picture from this point on



The next what felt like days in almost darkness on top of the fact my GPS kept taking my on some damn awful single track sections, but i was too tired to argue.

Tired dirty and in need of a beer i landed in Thakhet nearing 7 Pm and after running the gauntlet of water and powder throwing drunks, i got to the Sooksomboon Hotel


The reception guy offered me two types of rooms one on the Karaoke side or the quieter side of the place i went for the quieter side, which i later found made no fucking difference as their was a night club at the back of the place.

Grabbed a beer from the Karaoke dropped my gear a mist the reception asking did i want young girl and headed for the Inthira Hotel and restaurant looking like a bag of shit still in my riding gear

Ordered the most expensive thing on the menu, pork leg, yummy



I entertained myself watching the assembled backpackers sponging off the free wifi, making shuttle runs to the local market for meat on a stick because they could not afford the menu. They watched with envious eyes at the strange dirty farang gorging on the feast in front of me washed down with several bottles of Beer Laos.



 
Last edited:
Great stuff Bob. I spent four or five days stranded near that damn dam.... waiting on wheel bearings
 
Day 8 Lak Xao to Who Knows Where

Disused school or workers accommodation

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Unusual to see a covered stairway like this

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P1030049_zpse1656337.jpg

Stellar report Bob and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Just to add a bit of info: The disused school or workers accommodation is probably the Field Office of the Pasteur Institute in Nakai. The last time I was there it looked like it was closed but there were still cars parked so I assumed that still some work was ongoing there.

The covered stairway is unusual in rural areas but all the resettlement villages of the Nam Theun 2 hydropower project have covered stairways so I assume that this is the new Ban Don as the old Ban Don is now on the bottom of the reservoir some 3 km. east of the new Ban Don

I still think you could have headed for Vilaboury from Boaulapaha (about 60 km. mostly graded dirt) instead of heading to Thakhek (120 Km.) although I realize that once you are tired and all your plans have fallen through that sometimes you think what the heck - I head to a good bed and good food.
 
If its the one I think it is... it was definitely canoe only in the wet season.... the rocks weren't visible.
 
Thanks for info info Auke and Ian I am sure you past that way before

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Stellar report Bob and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Just to add a bit of info: The disused school or workers accommodation is probably the Field Office of the Pasteur Institute in Nakai. The last time I was there it looked like it was closed but there were still cars parked so I assumed that still some work was ongoing there.

The covered stairway is unusual in rural areas but all the resettlement villages of the Nam Theun 2 hydropower project have covered stairways so I assume that this is the new Ban Don as the old Ban Don is now on the bottom of the reservoir some 3 km. east of the new Ban Don

I still think you could have headed for Vilaboury from Boaulapaha (about 60 km. mostly graded dirt) instead of heading to Thakhek (120 Km.) although I realize that once you are tired and all your plans have fallen through that sometimes you think what the heck - I head to a good bed and good food.

Auke you are right in should have but like you say once you have goal in mind everything else is gone including common sense !

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Bob - you could make an e-book out of this report, i'm not joking. It's one of the most entertaining out there.
 
you could make an e-book out of this report......
That's what I said about your India trip! But I agree, e-book material.

Hmmmm, come to think of it, all epic trips collected in a Rideasia coffee table e-book??!?!
 
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