Karen tribal villages west of Ban Sao Hin, Mae Sariang

[KTMphil]

This was an amazing trip with the aim of discovering some new trails in the Salaween National Park NW of Mae Sariang. Looking at some of the military maps of the area, they showed several settlements west of the Ban Sao Hin track that aren't on any maps, so it seemed a good exploratory mission.

Ban Po Sur is a good staging point for a few days in the trails here. There's a CAT payphone, fuel, supplies and you can probably find somewhere to sleep quite easily in Ban Po Sur.

 

[Ally]

Fantastic opening pic there Phil. How can you top that !! ??

Really looking forward to the rest of your report... Have a rest first though

Ally

 

[KTMphil]

Getting into Mae Sariang as the sun was setting was a joy to see


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Then a quick look at Wat Suphan Rangsi in Mae sariang as dusk set in (co-ords: N18.15753 E97.92792)




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Such a shame it has the ugly structure under it!


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[KTMphil]

Gave the Mitaree "1" Hotel a shot in Mae Sariang - 400 Bht with aircon, excellent value would stay there again.



Co-ords:

N18.16051

E97.93677


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[KTMphil]

Best food in Mae Sariang is Intira

Co-ords:


N18.15946

E97.93088


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[KTMphil]

The next morning a group of Thai dirt riders were leaving who had ridden trails from Bangkok to Mae Hong Son!


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Then off on R 4018 westwards towards Ban Po Sur, a leaf carrying lady along the way


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more to come

 

[KTMphil]

Alex & I had been in this area a few weeks back, but didn't have time to explore trails we knew were there. As we expected, the trail went a long way north, here's one of the first Karen villages.

Can you imagine how hard it must be living on this mountain side in rainy season, with the trail cut off to civilization

 

[KTMphil]

Further north towards the Myanmar border a very green lake

Didn't seem to be a problem for the water buffalo's

This guy looked like he'd been having a good time

 

[KTMphil]

The trail goes single track once you start heading north, nothing too difficult

Another small settlement on the side of the trail

 

[KTMphil]

As usual in these refugee/tribal areas, the further away from civilization you get, the poorer it gets. Looks as though an NGO had been around providing solar power

Another small settlement further north

 

[KTMphil]

This little slope in front of the front wheel caused all kinds of problem, funny how they never show on the camera

Saw one working elephant in the whole time I was out there, this is actually the only one i've ever seen in that region

 

[KTMphil]

A got as far north as I could hoping to reach the Myanmar border. I came to a rice farm area and could find a way through. There was no obvious walking trail, no trail through the river so sadly that was it. I'm SURE this trail will head north somehow and link with Ban Sao Hin. It's too close for it not to happen.

 

[KTMphil]

Getting late in the day now, decision time whether it's going to be a night in the jungle or a village. Looks like there's enough time to make Ban Hua Nea.


Its one of the bigger villages on this trail, solar power for electric lights

School

Looks like the Christian missionaries had been there during the British Colonial rule in Burma, being so close to the Myanmar border.

 

[KTMphil]

The Karen locals were pretty shy at first but gradually their curiosity got the better of them

Lots of pipe smoking in the village

Even the ladies

 

[KTMphil]

This pipe smoker had amazing features

 

[KTMphil]

After 20 minutes they got less timid

 

[bsacbob]

Some really fantastic pictures there Phil, look's like pipe smoking is back in vogue.

 

[marcusb]

^ +1 fantastic shots!

 

[KTMphil]

I am absolutely hooked on this Karen area, the people are still so native, gentle, curious and shy, it's fascinating.

Getting near dusk, time to try and find somewhere to sleep for the night

The family from this house seem friendly and I ask them if I can sleep there and get some food, they say no problem. Their Thai dialect is difficult to understand.

Interesting that their houses even have Christian crosses on top of them.

One of the better houses in the village

 

[KTMphil]

A wander around the village before it gets dark. Very open plan

Traditional with pigs living under the house. The flies must be a huge problem?

Getting the rice husk separator to work

 

[Just Bob]

Another fantastic Phil trip!

 

[KTMphil]

In the dry season, there is a constant accumulation of fire wood for cooking and boiling water for drinking. Once it starts raining finding dry firewood is problematic.

One more pipe smoker

 

[KTMphil]

Wouldn't want to be cutting that on my own

Black, back up fuel bladder hanging from the bars that can carry in excess of 8 litres

Curious

 

[KTMphil]

In rainy season, probably the only way out of the village

Cooking was done in an adjacent house to the sleeping house, surprisingly totally inclosed

With the camera flash, grandma didn't like the flash

 

[KTMphil]

Dinner consisted of rice, mama noodles & a veg dish containing small river fish

They are so polite and gentle, they wouldn't eat until i was finished, shame they didn't want to eat together

 

[KTMphil]

I always offer 400 Bht. I've found that around that amount is the most they will accept always refusing at first. If you offer 1,000 bht they will often refuse full-stop. 400 bht seems to be the right number currently.


Sleep time, i get an immaculately clean room with mosquito net.

First time to try out the Thermarest Navis sleeping bag couple with the Thermarest Neo Air mattress - turned out to be an excellent combination (more here on that : http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-forum/bike-talk/343-essential-minimalists-gear-check-list-jungle-trail-tours-4.html#post24987)



Looking at the underside where the bag attaches itself to the air mattress. The beauty is that you can sleep on your side without rolling off the air mattress, ingenious.

 

[KTMphil]

The next morning everyone is less shy and waiting for me to wake up

Traditional Karen lady

 

[KTMphil]

Back out on the trails and time to head south

I didnt have the previous days track showing on the GPS. At one point with 5 trails going in different directions, the route south wasn't the right route and just led to some rice fields, it got really confusing. The correct way was a steep switch back to the north which felt totally wrong.


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As you can see its all beautiful, ledge-cut, single track

 

[KTMphil]

Finally out of the deep jungle

& with some time to spare poking around some new unmapped trails

All in all an awesome trip, this is one of the most fantastic, unspoiled areas of Thailand.

 

[2wheels]

Well done Phil; some lovely portraits and landscapes plus some new information.

 

[2wheels]

A bit about the Karen.

Karen Hilltribe

 

[bigntall]

Nice ride Phil and looks like a fantastic area to explore this time of year.

 

[The Bigfella]

Great stuff. Thanks Phil

 

[KTMphil]

Great stuff. Thanks Phil

When you get back we should shoot over there.

 

[LUFC]

They are so polite and gentle, they wouldn't eat until i was finished.

So they all went hungry that night!

 

[Ally]

Well done Phil, brilliant pics, images of people living very native, many of us fear we would never see again.

Thanks for taking the time & effort to share this.

Ally

 

[Lao2stroker]

arrrghh........'m so jealous....looks like a great ride, Phil....what beautiful pictures......I'm surprised you didn't pose with pipe, all that smoking going on...the peer pressure must be immense! And no, can't imagine what it must be like in rain season in a village like that, perched on a dirt hillside. Bummer to about all those crosses...like a plague, they know no bounds.

 

[MastaMax]

Amazing pictures Phil! This is my next trip destination for sure

 

[Captain_Slash]

Another good find there Phil

 

[mikehohman]

Another fantastic ride, Phil, and the pix are great! Well done!