Journey to the Karen State… Burma (Part 2 - crossing the river)

[Shane]

Interesting weekend on the other side of the Moei river… in the Karen State, Burma.

I definitely ended up getting a lot more than I bargained for out of this trip. Trucks, bikes, boats, super remote villages, epic waterfalls, armed to the teeth militia, gambling festivals, unbelievable trails and scenery, an insight into the Karen cross border culture and a starring role in a popular Thai/Karen YouTubers video



Part 2….

Had originally planned on doing lots of dirt biking in Tak, but after a good few beers with some local lads around the resort in the evening, they invited me to go to a festival on the far side of the river.



Hopped on a little boat in the evening to cross over and go to the party. The main events over the far side were gambling, some sort of variety show and hard core boozing.

There was a mixed crowd there. Thai, Karen, Burmese… and of course I was the only falang.

After a copious amount of beer, we were introduced to the village head, local militia heads etc. one of the guys I went with is a local YouTuber who knows everyone on both sides. The end result was that we were invited to go to a cool waterfall the following day.

Obviously, not one to pass up such an opportunity, I immediately canned my dirt biking plans for the following day and told them I’m in!




The waterfall is about an hours drive from the river. So at 8am, still feelin a bit hungover, we all piled into a boat to cross over again. Then into a pickup truck for about an hour. The road was a windy mountain road cutting through cool valleys with tall jagged limestone cliffs and jungle.



It’s like stepping back in time crossing the river. There’s no electricity in the village other than a generator. The buildings are traditional style with even the roofs made from leaves. The language is foreign, the cloths are traditional style and lots of people have red teeth from chewing betel.

Had to pass through a lot of military checkpoints along the way.




Waterfalls were very nice. Beautiful cascade features with lovely clear emerald water. Was great to get in for a swim. Had a traditional lunch afterwards. Everyone that we met was super friendly. Lots of people came over to take selfies with me.

Kyone Htaw Waterfall

Google Maps

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

maps.app.goo.gl

The waterfall is called Glue Thor. I presume the name in the google location is the Burmese name.








The location of the waterfall is in the pic below and the google pin above.



It’s worth noting…
The region is Karen state, in Burma. The area is controlled by Karen militia. This particular region is controlled by the BGF. It’s heavily militarised. The situation is complicated, but this particular area is peaceful. This border area has a lot of comings and going’s with locals as there are huge Karen populations on both sides. I was lucky to be able to get in as a foreigner because the guys that brought me there knew everyone. One of them is a popular Thai/Karen YouTuber.

For reference, this pin drop below is the town on the thai side of the Moei river.
Mae Tawo Pier

Google Maps

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

maps.app.goo.gl

It goes without saying, if anyone is reading this and thinking of going, just gotta be super careful, check the situation, make sure to go with Karen speaking locals and make sure they clear it with the militia on the far side.

All up, it was an epic adventure! I even started in a YouTube episode

 

[2wheels]

Excellent report, thanks Shane.
And what a superb waterfall

 

[Shane]

Excellent report, thanks Shane.
And what a superb waterfall

Thanks mate, it’s a cool place alright

 

[Snakeboy]

Awesome mate! Very cool and interesting read.
Thanks for sharing!

 

[Iron Chef]

Very interesting RR, thanks for sharing

 

[Captain_Slash]

A lovely trip that you took, thanks Shane.

 

[blackwolf]

I'm surprised you were allowed across given the security situation. Normally the Thai military has the final say on such matters. When it's safe, they let you go, when it's not, they don't.

Pre-Covid, it generally wasn't a problem to cross into Myanmar at various rebel held locations, including the Nong Luang to Waley short-cut, nearby Mulayit Taung, Loi Tai Leng and the Shan village 3km north of Ban Rak Thai in Mae Hong Son, but right now it doesn't seem advisable.

Now with that said, I'd do what you did if I had time and were in the area. Who would I contact?

 

[Shane]

I'm surprised you were allowed across given the security situation. Normally the Thai military has the final say on such matters. When it's safe, they let you go, when it's not, they don't.

Pre-Covid, it generally wasn't a problem to cross into Myanmar at various rebel held locations, including the Nong Luang to Waley short-cut, nearby Mulayit Taung, Loi Tai Leng and the Shan village 3km north of Ban Rak Thai in Mae Hong Son, but right now it doesn't seem advisable.

Now with that said, I'd do what you did if I had time and were in the area. Who would I

 

[Shane]

I'm surprised you were allowed across given the security situation. Normally the Thai military has the final say on such matters. When it's safe, they let you go, when it's not, they don't.

Pre-Covid, it generally wasn't a problem to cross into Myanmar at various rebel held locations, including the Nong Luang to Waley short-cut, nearby Mulayit Taung, Loi Tai Leng and the Shan village 3km north of Ban Rak Thai in Mae Hong Son, but right now it doesn't seem advisable.

Now with that said, I'd do what you did if I had time and were in the area. Who would I

I'm surprised you were allowed across given the security situation. Normally the Thai military has the final say on such matters. When it's safe, they let you go, when it's not, they don't.

Pre-Covid, it generally wasn't a problem to cross into Myanmar at various rebel held locations, including the Nong Luang to Waley short-cut, nearby Mulayit Taung, Loi Tai Leng and the Shan village 3km north of Ban Rak Thai in Mae Hong Son, but right now it doesn't seem advisable.

Now with that said, I'd do what you did if I had time and were in the area. Who would I contact?

Yeh I guess I just got kinda lucky with this trip. Just happened to be drinking beers with the right guys at the right time and got invited lol. The YouTuber in the video above organised it. You can see in the video it was quite casual how we crossed. Just hopped in a random boat from a random spot on the river and over we went. Got collected on the far side and drove on for about an hour. Good ol day out

 

[blackwolf]

Yeh I guess I just got kinda lucky with this trip. Just happened to be drinking beers with the right guys at the right time and got invited lol. The YouTuber in the video above organised it. You can see in the video it was quite casual how we crossed. Just hopped in a random boat from a random spot on the river and over we went. Got collected on the far side and drove on for about an hour. Good ol day out

Cool! Yeah, I guess not everywhere is dangerous, evaluating safety or whether passage is permitted isn't always straightforward. Reading some recent reports of travelers who've been to the pier, it seems that tourist boats are now allowed to operate, which suggests it's probably relatively safe in that area. I've personally been on a boat up at Mae Sam Laeb, but never stopped off at the pier in Mae Tawo. Speaking of Mae Sam Laeb, some 10-12 years ago my dad was up there with some university colleagues based in Bangkok. They weren't allowed to go on a boat ride, despite not intending to visit the Myanmar side. This is presumably because there was some instability on the Burmese side so boats (including those that ferry passengers down to Sob Moei) weren't operating. By the time of my visit in 2019, no issues.

I know Mae Tawo well. However, when I first read your account, I was initially thinking of Tha Song Yang district, which I now recall is also known as "Mae Tahn" when it's actually smaller Ban Tha Song Yang, about 56km to the north.

A friend used to operate a factory in Mae Tawo, just outside of town, on a plot of land adjoining the river. His workers would come from the other bank every morning and return in the evening. He's since moved his operations to a larger and more secure location in Mae Ramat to the south.

You definitely met the right person at the right time! If you're in touch with the Saw Pla Wa team, let him know I'm interested in visiting the Karen side of Mae Tawo! I'm often up in the area.

 

[blackwolf]

Didn't pay attention to the fact you went to the Gluethor waterfall when I "discovered" this waterfall earlier this year. Re-reading this report with the familiarity I now have of the area makes me look at it with a new set of eyes. Back in 2023, the name Gluethor meant nothing to me, although after having done some research, it turns out that before Covid (and the coup) foreigners had actually been permitted to travel here from the state capital Hpa-an without a permit. This window ended once Covid restrictions came into force and I am pretty sure access is now limited to those arriving informally from the Thai side.

I made it across twice; the first time in February just to the town on the Burmese bank as it was late in the day and didn't have time to head to the waterfall. Then, just under a month ago, I went to the waterfall. It was amazing. Nice clear water, neither too cool nor too warm. Just perfect and the weather was great too. I also enjoyed an early vegetarian dinner there with my driver and his wife.

34km along a concrete/paved road that is quite steep and winding at first but flattens out as you get closer to the waterfall. Takes about 40-45 mins to get there. Thai Karens who own vehicles on the Burmese side take tourists and visitors there, as was the case for me.

I'd definitely visit again in the future.

According to my driver, an average of 1-2 westerners every 2-3 months visit the waterfall, at least during the dry season (rainy season visits are much less frequent). Seems like people are reading these reports and deciding to go. Thais visit most days apparently, although I didn't see anyone who looked or sounded Thai when I was there, but it could be because it was getting late (I only arrived at 4pm Thai time and by the time I left the waterfall it was 530pm Thai time and this meant nightfall was approaching as I returned to the Thai side). I think most Thai visitors arrive much earlier, perhaps late morning to early afternoon and are more likely to just take pictures and buy some souvenirs or snacks than go for a swim.

Occasional NGO workers also cross to attend to the needs of what are mainly stateless villagers who live in the Mae Tawo to Gluethor corridor. Aside from one I think it's DKBA checkpoint just at the edge of Mae Tawo, there were no other military checkpoints along the way. My driver offered to show me a plantation further inside the country about 20 mins drive away but I was reluctant to go for 2 reasons: 1) it was getting late and I didn't have much time (plus I wanted to enjoy the waterfall and having a meal there) and 2) not sure what 20 mins meant (how many km?) but I feared getting too close to government checkpoints where a foreigner without a passport and visa shouldn't be. Had it been 1km beyond the waterfall I would have taken the risk but 20 mins was too far for my liking as it could have meant 10, 15, 20 or even 30km given we were now heading onto straighter flatter roads.

Gluethor is the absolute furthest "safe" spot inside Burmese (Karen/Kayin state) territory when coming from the Thai side, one can go as a foreigner without inviting scrutiny or possible danger/arrest/detention etc. despite claims from my driver that it should be OK but I wasn't sure where rebel territory ends and Burmese territory begins.

Earlier in the day, I visited another spot on the Burmese side a bit further south with a local guide and another westerner located right along the Karen state side. I won't reveal the details of that although it was in a private capacity.