Joint exploring trip to the north of Laos

Lone Rider

Blokes Who Can
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Location
Chiangmai
Bikes
4 Wheels
Had been planning already for some time to go to the north of Laos to get new data and update existing tracks and waypoints for my Laos GPS map and when I heard that Phil wanted to go to the same area we decided that we would go together. So off we went with Phil's bike on the back of my truck to Muang Khoua from where we went our separate ways - Phil riding up north into the "finger" sticking into Vietnam and into Vietnam itself and me to the east to the Vietnam border and later on to Samphan north of Muang Khoua.

On the first day we made it up to Pakbeng with a late border crossing at 5 in the afternoon. No problems but on the Lao side they did ask if we were part of a group tour, something they had never asked before so there seems to be something going on with allowing tour groups getting into Laos.

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Stayed for a change at the Monsavanh GH which was quite nice (400 Baht for a room at the ground floor and 500 Baht for a room on the first floor - N19.89364 E101.13033). The next morning it was a bit chilly in the market and some of the vendors found it very cold.


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After a nice breakfast at the Monsavan Bakery we took our time to get to Muang Khoua and along the way we stopped quite a few times as in many villages the Hmong were celebrating their New Year.


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While all the girls were using the traditional Hmong costumes, we saw only one male who had dressed up


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A localized "Michelin" man warning the road users of a hole in the road

As we had arrived on a Saturday we had not been able to get Lao Kip so we tried every ATM along the road. No luck as all ATM's including these in Oudomxay were all of the local variety and did not accept international cards.

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We tried to get help from the guard at the bank in Oudomxay but he was so fast asleep that we decided it would be better not to disturb him and make do with Thai Baht till the next morning when the banks in Muang Khoua would be open.
 
The next morning (17 December) we were off into the direction of Vietnam but not before ordering breakfast. Somehow our orders made the cook confused as one of us did not want ham with his egg and baquette while the other did want the ham included. In the end all we got was 2 dry baquettes each but no eggs nor ham.

On our way to the east we found it was very misty and in places we could only see some 20 meters ahead of us. Luckily later on the mist cleared a bit near Muang Mai where we were going to split with Phil going north and me going first east to the Vietnam border and then north to Muang Samphan and the Nam Ou Hydro Power Project No. 5.

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Phil trying to get directions for a fuel station from the locals before setting of on his trip into the unknown.

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Myself went on further to the east and only, when I arrived at the border crossing, the mist was finally disappearing - the Lao Immigration and Customs building with one half still in the mist.

As there was not much to see other then parked trucks waiting for clearanve to cross the border I decided to head back and start my trip up north.

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Road 2E is now completely paved and all river crossings have been replaced by new bridges and culverts

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Suspension bridge to Ban Sop Nao on the south side of the Noua river

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The new Post Office in Muang May

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The suspension bridge and the Nam Gna/Noua ford in Muang May which previously was used by cars to cross the river (now replaced by the bridge from where the picture was taken).

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Ban Omphalou on the mountain ridge

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Bridge under construction over the Nam Ban on the new road to Muang Samphan and the hydro power project

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The road is still "under construction" but a new bus service between Muang Samphan and Muang Khoua is already up and running

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Locals shooting the rapids on the Nam Ban river on their way from villages along the river to the Nam Ou river

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The 53 km. long road basically runs along the Nam Ou river with steep and very steep drop-offs to the river

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The 240 MW am Ou No. 5 Hydro Power project construction site. There will be alltogether 7 hydro power projects on the Nam Ou all to be built and operated by SinoHydro with 3 being under construction at the moment - Nam Ou No. 6 a bit north of Hatsa (east of Phongsaly), No. 5 north of Samphan and No. 2 a bit north of Pak Nga on Rd 13 (northeast of Luang Prabang).

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The old access road which starts at Ban Phicheu-Ma on Road 1B north-west of the junction of road 1B and 2E at Sinxai (Pak Nam Noi)

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One of the very few Guesthouses in Muang Samphan - Not very appealing to say the least and it is only open during night time. Call the owner/manager and he will come to open up his place.

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Finally some picture of village life in Ban Naxai (the capital of Muang Samphan). Lots of activities are going on now that the new road has been built and all the roads in the village are now being paved as cement can now be trucked in.
 
Lovely photo's LR, I wish I'd had time to go up and see the dam construction site, still all very hush hush.
 
Lovely photo's LR, I wish I'd had time to go up and see the dam construction site, still all very hush hush.

Well, if you would have stuck with the original plan you would have passed the dame site while coming from the north side on your way to Samphan
 
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