Clearing your bike into India
Clearing your bike into India
Matt & Anita just cleared their bike into Calcutta, India - so far not too impressed it seems, Matt sent me this message last night:
Hmmm. Indian customs is a sore point. We entered at Calcutta, and having spent 2 days with the help of a customs clearance firm (DB Schenker - german firm), when all the paperwork apart from the security gate clearance pass was done, and the bike was out of the crate and reassembled, I got a message that 2 guys who signed that pass wanted 10,000 rupees (£145) 'split' money. It was dark, we were in the shitty end of Calcutta, I was knackered and dreading riding in the rush hour and trying to find a hotel. I got arsey with the bloke and he reduced it down to 4,500 rupees which I paid although it went against my scruples. As we rode out I realised that the pass didn't mean a thing and we could have just ridden out anyway.
The point of the story is that their customs clearance paperwork is horrendously convoluted, time-consuming, and riddled with corruption. You really need a friend who knows it on the India side to help you through - and you'll probably still end up paying. At one point we were taken into a room - the only one not filthy - where a Darth Vader character sat in a high-tech chair with three computer screens in front of him. The 'helper' deferentially asked him to look kindly at the paperwork and he eventually signed it. All very surreal.
It could well be that because it's an overland crossing, it'll take five minutes and not cost a penny. Who knows?
As they say, 'the bigger your camera, the more you pay', so cover the bike in mud and shite or whatever and make it look dreadful. Yourself too! Take big bits off it to carry with you even, and remember that Indians are very light-fingered - worse than the Brits. Oh, and you'll need a Carnet de Passage (from RAC or ADAC).
Riding the bike in India will get you looked at as though you're an alien and crowds will gather immediately. Not good if you like your space.
Sorry this isn't succinct. You must enjoy a challenge. Maybe try it with a cheapo bike first as a recce?
Hope this helps. Good luck, and keep us up to date with any plans!