thepreacher
Junior Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2011
It was our second visit to the Thailand region of South East Asia on our Harley-Davidson motorcycle, the first had been in 1996 (http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/forwood/thailan1.shtml) when Lao, Cambodia and Vietnam had all been closed to large motorcycles. It was now February 2005, and in the interim years the Harley had been ridden in over 150 countries and was back to visit the last three remaining South East Asian countries, Lao, Cambodia and Vietnam. The first two had now opened their borders to motorcycle travellers but Vietnam was still officially closed. Some people had luckily crossed at a remote border in the north of Lao. A window that had now been closed by the Vietnamese government. Another traveller had recently been allowed to cross to the East of Phnom Penh, a crossing I would attempt, and fail. In almost desperation, and after many refusals, I planned an approach to a remote border crossing, an illegal approach. Below is the diarised account of the attempt and success in getting a Harley into Vietnam, if only for a 62km ride.
Trying From Cambodia
1/2/05 I started my difficult challenge to get the motorcycle into Vietnam. Working northward I attempted three border crossings. The first two for locals only, the last one an international border. Ha Tien, at the end of 16 km of dirt out of Kampong Trach was not encouraging from the start. The border side shops had none of the produce that indicate trade between countries or smuggled goods. There were also no vehicles being driven across the border. The one truck I saw was unloading rice to be carried across. Motorcycles were being pushed across, not ridden. I got no further than the police on the Cambodian side, a stone wall attitude, not for foreigners and despite my comment of dollars there was no interest. Back to Kampong Trach then 3 km east a turn off along a dirt road for 12 km more to a river canal crossing into Vietnam. No problems this time in Cambodia but after leaving the bike and taking a ferry to Vietnam another polite wall was put up to my passing. Again not a border for foreigners. Back again and further east to Tane and to the highway 2 and the Tinh Bien crossing. Again no problems with the Cambodians, they allowed me through, asking that I just return to have my passport stamped if I was allowed into Vietnam. All was going well with the Vietnamese customs, almost ready to give approval, immigration stamp already completed, then the Police rejected the motorcycle. My suggestion that the bike could be trucked to Saigon to be shipped to Japan didn't change matters. So the paperwork was unwound and I ended up in Takeo for the night, a little less optimistic of my likely success than before the days start.
2/2/05 I am putting extra effort into getting the motorcycle into Vietnam for two reasons. It's the last country in South East Asia that the bike hasn't visited and it could be a launch pad for China, South Korea and Japan rather than having to return to Thailand and shipping to Japan. Popping in and out along dirt roads near the border also gives an insight into a very different Cambodia than where the tourists are. This flat delta area of the Mekong grows rice on its poorer soils. Most families still live in some form of grass structure, no electricity, except battery power to run lights and TV. Using a mapping CD, Global Explorer, a 1991 edition, I found a couple of roads that disappeared just over the border in Vietnam that could possible have no border checks and, in the dry season perhaps a route deeper into the country. I had also been informed by the Vietnamese consulate in Sihanoukville of another border crossing open to foreigners at Binh Hiep, 35 km south of Svay Rieng. All these options were on the eastern side of the Mekong. I rode back almost to Phnom Penh, then onto Highway 1 east, a bumpy road till the ferry crossing, then newly made asphalt. The Cambodian officials at the Binh Hiep crossing stamped me out but again the Vietnamese refused entry, stating it was not an official foreigner border. I returned to Kampong Ro, eight km, turned east along a dirt track running parallel to the border, always heading right in case a trail crossed the border, asking directions to Vietnam from the many locals. There were small signs of smuggling, fuel drums on a couple of motorcycles and some plastic goods, seen at other border posts. One local, who spoke english, suggested the police arranged for items to cross the border and that I should discuss it with them. He arranged a meeting where I was left in no doubt that I was not welcomed on their territory, that they had no contact with the Vietnamese authorities and that my presence could be jeopardizing their operations. A foreigner with a big bike was more than they were wanting to handle. Again disappointed, to Svay Rieng for the night.
3/2/05 238,857 miles, the distance from the Earth to the Moon, also the distance covered by the motorcycle since starting the trip nine years ago. Headed to the Moc Bai border. Same story. Cambodia let the bike and I through only to be rejected in Vietnam. With a request from me to put the motorcycle on a truck I was pushed up the chain to customs who handed me a written directive from police not to let vehicles in without police approval. At police HQ they advised it was illegal to allow in foreign vehicles. Again no trucks were crossing the border, all produce by hand or on motorcycle. It often amazes me how antiquated Asia is in some of its rules. The only options left seem pretty high risk. Smuggling the bike in, finding a safe hiding place for it, returning to Cambodia to an official border for me to cross legally to Vietnam, then collecting the motorcycle. Svay Rieng again for the night.
4/2/05 I took a dirt track along the eastern side of the Mekong, heading south it passed through small endless poor villages, weaved around waterhole tributaries, crossed over wooden walking bridges and detoured sandy bogs. Only motorcycles travelled the 35 km, or bullock drawn wagons. A small boat, loading cross border rice, was arranged to try and cross the border by water. The bike loaded and we hugged the east bank for an hour before crossing to the west. I had expected the boat to cross into Vietnam but a misunderstanding with the operator had us at Cambodian customs. Again no vehicles, boats included, tourist boats excepted, cross this watery border. I went within minutes of being allowed into Vietnam though. A more friendly border than the others they were at least open to the idea and over two hours discussions occurred between police and customs. Surprisingly the police were in favour of allowing the bike in and it was only the head of customs, who left for the Chinese New Year holiday minutes after the decision, who was against the idea. The second in charge later said he would have let the bike in had his chief not previously said no. Back to Phnom Penh, exhausted and arriving after dark. Again the first 50 km was alongside the Mekong a bouncy dirt track, similar but better than this mornings ride on the eastern side.
5/2/05 That was my last border attempt from Cambodia. A rethink of my plan and after getting a new Laos visa, which will take a few days as it is the weekend, I plan to head out through Thailand then onto northern Laos. Back into civilization and a cleanup of myself and the bike of dust. Replaced the catches on the top box, vibrated to destruction.
6/2/05 This is now my third visit to Phnom Penh, staying at the same guesthouse, lakeside, I was welcomed as a long lost relative, such is the hospitality in this country, particularly returning as so many just pass through, never to be seen again. With so many guesthouses and even more restaurants, the locals needed to work in these businesses and the travel agencies and transport taxi's, there is a second tier support structure level for those staff. They have their own street restaurants and coffee shops. I prefer to eat and drink there. A chance to talk with locals, many speak English in this area, a more sense of belonging. After a few days I am seen more and more as a local, removed from the tourists, and get an insight into how tourists are generally viewed, how they are co-erced to part with more money than they intended, how the local structure works.
7/2/05 Characters abound all over the world but seem more prevalent amongst travellers particularly in Asia. A Canadian, 54 yrs old, at my guesthouse, an ex-movie and advertising director from Singapore, now a budding painter having time away form his Thai wife and two young children, just hanging out in Cambodia because the amphetamines that he needs at 4 a day are only $US 1.00 each on the street here compared with $5 in Bangkok. Using them, and sleep deprivation (only 8 hours a week of sleep), he says he sees his painting creations more clearly. Others here prefer the more mind dulling drugs of alcohol or marijuana. Happy pizzas, yes edible marijuana toppings, are available and advertised openly at some restaurants even though illegal. Five foreigners last year died of drug overdoses in the country.
8/2/05 I'd been looking for a new camera the last few days and ended up with the new Nikon 8800, justifying the price of $US 875.00 as it's new technology, uses the same memory card as the Nikon 5700, I have been using and 80% of the functions are the same. Hopefully the old camera can be repaired in a more modern country to be kept as the spare. Spent most of the day playing with the 8 megapixel, 10 times zoom camera, obtaining my new Laos visa in the afternoon.
9/2/05 The number of people killed on the roads in Cambodia, 1024 last year, is about the same as in the west on a population basis, 11.4 million Cambodians. However the number killed on a per vehicle basis is about nine times that of the west. This is probably the same for most underdeveloped countries. Does that mean it is more dangerous driving here than in the west? Most vehicles here are used constantly, motorcycle taxi's, busses, trucks, with few private under used vehicles like in the west. Most vehicles are full to overloaded, not with just one occupant, so any accident results in more injuries. Ambulances and hospital care is slow and basic, particularly in remote areas, a higher chance of dying as a result of an accident. The vehicles and the people are not protected as well, no seat belts, no helmets, air bags, overloaded, exposed people riding on the outside of vehicles, resulting in higher injuries. Despite most people here not having a license, or having a dodgy one, the driving is of good quality. The speeds are generally slower, reducing injury. On balance I don't think there is a large difference in safety, riding a motorcycle here to riding one in the west.
10/2/05 Left Phnom Penh at 6 am heading west to the Thailand border, 400 km, arriving at 1 pm. Good road except for the last 40 km's of torn up asphalt. It was along this section that the bike didn't steer around a pothole, skidding with me almost dropping it. On inspection I couldn't find anything wrong. It wasn't till it happend again that I noticed that the top crash bar bolt had snapped and vibrated out enough to partially jam up the steering. Luckily it only affected the steering at low speed. Cambodia is basically a flat rice field, mile upon mile of dryland rice, flooded in the wet season. The extra stamps that were in my passport from trying to enter Vietnam confused immigration and kept me waiting for a while otherwise no motorcycle paperwork leaving.
The usual easy and free paperwork entering Thailand for me and the bike. Stayed at the Thai border town of Aranya.
11/2/05 I had slowly become accustomed to the disarray of Cambodia, with its rubbish strewn streets, random moving traffic and farm animals migrating along roads. Thailand now seems tamed, clean, polite, an old man in comparison. I rather liked the unkemptness of Cambodia. Thailand is just an easy way north to Laos and 600 km today, good roads and petrol at two thirds the price of Cambodia, (US$ 0.50c a litre in Thailand). I ended up in Mukdahan in the evening. It's also a place to restock my money. There were no ATM's in Cambodia and only one in Laos, so for the last few weeks I have been living, and buying a camera, on my US$ reserves.
12/2/05 The vehicle ferry to Laos leaves a few times daily, however its sporadic on weekends. Customs cleared the motorcycle yesterday afternoon, despite it not leaving the country, they are not keen to work after hours. They were also encouraged to stamp my carnet, clearing the last entry to Laos stamp that I was unable to cancel when I Left Laos and crossed into Cambodia, with a Thai exit stamp. It is probably of no benefit except it raises less questions with the entry and exit stamps equal. I wish Vietnamese customs were so relaxed. Trucks cross this border from Thailand, through Laos and onto Vietnam. This morning they were lined up at the border and will remain there till Monday morning, not prepared to pay the customs overtime to clear them weekends. They are container trucks, sealed, mostly carrying cigarettes. No chance to put a motorcycle inside for the journey to Vietnam. Mormons, dressed in long black pants, white shirt and tie, travelling in pairs on bicycles are seen all over the world, wherever governments will allow them to preach their faith. A two year service for the Brothers and Sisters of Salt Lake City, they are always enthusiastic to make my acquaintence if spotted. Usually in outlying areas they don't see too many westerners. Talking to a couple yesterday they informed me that Thailand only issues about 170 visas to their religion, not enough to do the work they want to do in the country. Unpaid, funded by themselves or family it is a hard two years. I am usually happy to enter discussions, as long as the "no attempting conversion rules" are established.
13/2/05 Packed up and ready to leave, started the bike and the accelerator cable broke. First time, 410,000 km, not a bad life. Luckily I carry a spare. Many people think I carry too many spares but it's at times like this I am grateful. In fact H-D's have two cables, a push pull system so I changed both. The unbroken one can be a spare if in another 400,000 km the new one breaks. It's a couple of hours job by which time I had missed the limited Sunday ferry schedule to Laos, so another day here. It's not a bad town to hang around for a couple of days. A smattering of tourists go through, mostly older westerners just renewing their Thai visas, a three monthly routine. The people very friendly and the food excellent Thai. I could be in a worse place for an extra night.
14/2/05 There are five barges this side of the river and over 100 trucks lined up to cross. Having cleared customs on Friday I was first loaded and surprised when the ferry left with just me on board. Apparently it was the early morning boat to bring back the first lot of Laos trucks. Thai customs hadn't yet cleared any on this side.
From Lao
14/2/05 Through immigration in five minutes, thirty day stay, and no-one from customs waved me down so I kept moving. Again I wish this was Vietnam. The trucks started to arrive from Thailand at 10.00 am and headed for a customs compound just on the edge of town. Lao being a land locked country relies heavily on this supply route. A bridge is already partially completed across to Thailand anticipating extra trade. I looked into putting the bike on a truck from here to Vietnam but couldn't locate any that crossed the border. Stayed in Savannakhet for the night.
15/2/05 Headed east along a good road the 240 km to Vietnam border at Lao Bao. Rather than attempting the border I approached an import-export business near the border. The owner, with not a lot to do, took me on as his project for the day. Only trucks loaded with Lao timber were crossing, no chance for the motorcycle. Surprised that the motorcycle would not be allowed into Vietnam he sent his employee with my paperwork across the border to check and find out what bribe fee would be required. The answer, a 250cc motorcycle can be bribed in, anything bigger can not be bribed into the country. Undaunted he phoned the Vietnamese consulate for a special permission letter. Request denied. He phoned a friend with police contacts in Vietnam, no approval. Another friend regarding a track around the check point and over the border. A foot track through this hilly area but no motorcycle track. Four hours later he admitted defeat and I retreated 50 km's to stay in Muang Sepon. This area of Laos is some of its poorest. Slash and burn and poor soils in the hills make eking a living difficult.
16/2/05 Laos is still Communist. The people more reserved than neighbouring countries. Less likely to get involved in what others are doing. Holding back on touching or being interested in the motorcycle. It doesn't mean they are less observant, just don't show it outwardly. I rode back towards the border, 20 km short, and took a left turn along a dirt track, ostensibly taking photos of the villages but also to see if it crossed the border. The track deteriorated into a walking track up and over hills broken by creeks and small rivers. At times I was forced to cross as the motorcycle was pointing down hill with nowhere to turn and no-one to push. I was dreading the thought of having to return. It became apparent I was approaching the border as a couple of motorcycles carrying clothing passed, the only smuggled goods I saw.
Into Vietnam
I simply rode past the quiet Laos border post, around the barrier. I just rode past, but was unfortunatley stopped a couple of km's further by a shallow rocky river crossing, where two Vietnamese police on motorcycles caught up and politely insisted I return. Papers were inspected, the motorcycle thoroughly searched and I was then escorted a further 6 km into Vietnam, across the river, where I dropped the motorcycle, to their main office. More inspections of papers, discussions and then insistence that I return the way I had come which I did as far as the river. Then the realization of their intention and I politely refused to proceed. Insisting the motorcycle couldn't make the trip, that I only ended up here because I couldn't go back earlier, insisting I be allowed to ride to Lao Bao, a sealed road to correct the paperwork. There we waited as locals gathered to look at the bike and see what would transpire. Two older men had hands missing, presumably from land mines, more motorcycles crossed with bags of clothes and the water buffalo grazed uninterested. Three hours of insistence and refusal after which the police simply took my papers back to the border (Cua Khau Phu Ban Cheng) and demanded that I must return there to collect them. Left to myself I decided to ride to Lao Bao, really my only option as it was late afternoon, and would have been impossible to travel back over the track in the dark. A new concrete road, cut through the mountains for the first 20 km, then joining an asphalt road being upgraded for the expected increase in traffic across the border. 45 km to Lao Bao and I immediately reported the situation to the border Police. I had managed a couple of photos along the way and talked to locals, obviously never having seen a similar motorcycle. A surprise that my paperwork arrived at the border within 30 minutes of me. The border was closing for the night, wooden carts of scrap metal, old bombs and bomb fragments, pushed by hand were the last to cross. Polite discussions again, clearance with Laos that I was allowed to return and it was after dark that I was escorted across the border, presumably with comments of stupid tourist. Not the sortie into Vietnam I had hoped for on the motorcycle, 60 km, mostly unescorted, not the most rewarding, but the Harley had now been ridden in Vietnam.
Back in Lao
17/2/05 Lao receives a reasonable amount of international aid money. Non Government Organizations vehicles can be seen all over the country. They seem to be at the point of a lot of countries we have visited where this aid is becoming expected. People in countries receiving short term aid are appreciative, long term aid they become expectant, like many places in Africa. They stop looking for solutions to their own problems. I often wonder too why aid agency workers vehicles are always seen at some of the best hotels in town. A little saving there can result in a big difference to the families needing assistance. The smaller hotels are usually locally owned, putting money directly back into the community. Having given up on a meaningful visit to Vietnam I headed north to Thakhek, 300 km, past cleared timber land now with smaller regrowth being cut for charcoal. Children sweeping the fields with metal detectors looking for bomb fragments to sell as scrap metal
18/2/05 Just out of town children with metal detectors were sweeping rice fields for metal to recycle. The USA flew over half a million missions over Laos during the Vietnam war, dropping two million tons of bombs. It is estimated 30% remained unexploded, and at the current rate of clearing it will take the UN over 100 years to declare Laos safe. Stanley, a 72 year old Slovenian American rode his bicycle and mono wheeled trailer from Argentina to Alaska two years ago. He has just ridden from Magadan in north eastern Russia through Mongolia, China, Vietnam and I met him today 80 km out of Vientiane in late morning. For me it was just one hours more ride in the 30 degree plus heat, for him, he arrived at 7 pm after his 140 km day. We had dinner together over his plans to finish his ride around the world across Myanmar, India, Iran etc. to Slovenia. Motivated by the challenge rather than the enjoyment he crossed the Gobi Desert in November with overnight temperatures of -20 and Christmased in Beijing snow before heading southward. We both agreed that despite the calendar having 6 months of spring and autumn combined, finding consistent temperatures of mid to low 20's, perfect for riding bicycle or motorcycle, is still difficult.
19/2/05 Two days ago I noticed a crack in the tubing of the main frame of the motorcycle. On the front left there is a bracket supporting the foot board, stand and crash bars that is welded to the frame tubing. On the rear underneath side the crack extended about 70% of the way around the tubing, probably stressed by hitting rocks with the foot board brackets and crash bars when dropped. I had ridden cautiously over the last two days to Vientiane to have it repaired. Businesses in Asia seem to be in a hurry to get a job done rather than getting a good job done. I almost always have to slow down the process allowing thinking time. By grinding a gouge in the frame and weld filling, welding two supports to strengthen the frame and attached to the bracket, hopefully it will be stronger than original. Two hours of me grinding and directing, and them welding, for just $US 5.00. Someone along the way once commented that if you start spending more money on the motorcycle than on yourself you need to rethink the priorities. In Asia with petrol at $US 0.60 cents a litre and a few parts bought from home it's conceivable that when riding a lot of km's a day that the motorcycles expenses would indeed exceed mine.
20/2/05 Headed north to Vang Vieng, the beginning of the mountains. Immediately greener though the air is hazy from rice stalk burning and land clearing along with dry season lack of rain. Vang Vieng was a small village along a river with lovely limestone mountains as a backdrop. For better or worse tourists discovered the area and it has now grown into a drop out place. The main street is lined with restaurants with raised eating areas like in the Sinai, Israeli salads and Hebrew menus. It also has the "Happy" foods menu (marijuana) in pizza, drinks, pasta or almost anything else. Each restaurant has a TV and enormous selection of latest release pirated DVD movies but the main showings are episodes of "Friends". Patrons sit relaxed as the world passes by. There are other activities, elephant rides, visits to caves, canoeing or tubing. Despite the drugs Laos seems to have minimalised the impact of tourists on the sex trade by making it illegal for foreigners to have sex with any Lao national. I have seen no signs of sex workers here, unlike in Thailand and Cambodia where the trade is openly displayed.
21/2/05 Tourism has passed many of the locals by. The older generation going about their lives as always, oblivious to the tourist development surrounding them. Growing small vegetable plots, grazing buffalo, collecting weed and fishing in the river, traditionally dressed and using ancient methods. It's not often that I can be in an area where locals will ignore me where they carry on in a traditional way. But having so many tourists the locals don't see me photographing as they move through daily chores. Most things seem to be done as a social event. The building of a community hut, tidying up a towns rubbish. Even ordinary chores are open to the neighbours, bathing or washing clothes in the river. House fronts are often open as shops, restaurant bathrooms double as the houses bathroom. Meals are often prepared in front of the house watching people watch people. I washed the dust off the motorcycle, riding it into the river where two elephants and their mahouts had strolled earlier.
22/2/05 A popular all day tour is mini bus to a local village, canoe down river to a cave, jumping from a platform or rope swinging into the river, lunch, more canoeing, another cave, a beer, watching the slow moving dope smoking tube riders float by, more canoeing back to Vang Vieng. Thirteen were in our group, a relatively quiet bunch, the river at low water progress was slow. We arrived at the first cave as a few locals were heading inside. With leaves they lit sticks of bamboo as a light, hurrying through as they burnt quickly. This cave, from one side to the other of the mountain, a shortcut to climbing over. The locals, with chain saw, were heading into the hills to illegally cut timber which would be floated through the cave in the wet season. Our canoes all leaked, having been pounded on rocks many times, slowly filling with water they became unstable and everyone ended up swimming at least once.
23/2/05 A day relaxing, sitting on the balcony of my bamboo hut overlooking river and karst mountains. The diary web page has become so extensive over the last nine years that finding information is difficult. I recently started a new section, called short stories, which summarizes certain aspects of the trip. Some are factual others just of interest. Each story requires a lot of research on my part as nine year old memories aren't accurate. It's a good way to review the trip in my spare time, write a summary, and publish to the web. Something that occupied my relax day today.
24/2/05 Just 230 km but a slow mountain road with great scenery through the dry season haze to Luang Prabang. It's here the mountain people have been harvesting the land for centuries. The trees gone, the main cash crop comes from making brooms. The feathery seed heads of a reed like mountain grass is collected, deseeded, to make the soft brooms. The fields grow cabbages on the good soil, and a four year rotation of crops on the hillsides. Many villages have relocated to the roadside to take advantage of the transport and electricity. Often not the best location, perched one house deep between the road and hillside. Children with little land to play on wave from balconies as people pass by.
25/2/05 I spent today planning the trip across Russia, Mongolia to Central Asia. Not being able to enter eastern Russia till June because of the weather and not wanting to get stuck in Central Asia after winter starts in November it looks like it will be a short stay in Australia.
26/2/05 Another days research on the next six months, working out km's for the trip using http://www.mapquest.com, and a different route could have me in the middle East by the wedding, and a warmer spot in December to return to.
27/2/05 Luang Prabang is on a peninsula between two rivers. Laos original capital it has wat's dating back to the 16th century and plenty of French architecture to add to its appeal. Lao has become a tourist destination and this town is its most notable attraction drawing fly in tourists visiting the region. The main street is lined with European theme restaurants with French the predominant. Prices here match the level of tourism, more upmarket tour groups. It is starting to go a little like other UNESCO listed towns of Europe, a town specifically for tourists. The wat's attract many novice monks, 100 can be seen each morning lining the main street to collect alms from the faithful. The same number, or more, tourists arrive in mini buses to photograph the event. After being house bound for two days it was great walking the streets, looking at old buildings and being a tourist.
28/2/05 Most people take the boat to Nang Khiaw, six hours but the road follows the river almost all the 140 km's. The Portuguese couple, next to my room have been spending time in Luang Prabang waiting for their Thai meditation course to begin. At the last minute Barbara asked if she could come on the motorcycle. One of the best days riding. Stopped at a local village, grass and bamboo huts, a battery operated satellite TV bringing them the leap into the 21 st century. We wandered about for an hour, children following, women cleaning tree bark for processing into strips for baskets or making grass roof panels. The men, mostly idle as usual, sitting smoking and talking. Another stop where the river weed is dried, flattened and tomato, garlic and sesame seeds added, eaten as a snack. Tobacco, an alternative cash crop, becoming more popular, also seen drying roadside. Barbara tried some of the local product wrapped in a page of an old school note book, as the locals here smoke. Nong Khaiw has a few guest houses overlooking the river. Later in the afternoon we entered one of the local caves. With a small torch, lantern and candles climbed and crawled for almost two hours into the mountain, often in mud or down muddy slopes. Bats and cave crickets our only companions.
1/3/05 This area of Laos was heavily bombed during the Vietnamese war. The people moved their town into caves nearby and built a hospital, bank and markets there. The main cave, high up a cliff was only accessible by a long bamboo ladder. Four of us explored the caves and offshoots further into the mountain, in the afternoon, washing off some of the dust in the nearby river. It's an easy relaxed village, with guest house restaurants overlooking the river traffic and events.
2/3/05 230 km through Udomxai to the Chinese border crossing at Boten. Slow, averaging 40 km/hr over mountains, many small villages, many open treed areas and little traffic, universal in Laos. The last 20 km to the border under a Chinese road construction team, dirty and dusty. Arriving at the border at 4 pm, it took fifteen minutes to convince the Lao officials to allow me through to check if China would allow the motorcycle entry. Having left my passport on the Laos side as return security, and arriving at 4.30 pm, right on border closing time, the 20 police officials saluting the lowering of their flag were not flexible in my request to enter with the motorcycle. I was coldly advised that only with an escorted Chinese tour would the motorcycle be allowed entry. Trucks, cars and buses appear to cross the border, only with Laos or Chinese registration. The town of Na Toei, customs clearance in Laos, 20 km from the border and where I stayed the night, in the only guest house, just three rooms. This is not the normal thriving border town where smuggling or trade is the main business. This is a quiet town, a little bit excited now because of business brought by road construction.
3/3/05 Death comes instantly to the cat caught under the wheels of a border crossing truck as I eat my breakfast at one of the many outdoor restaurants. The town is awake and there is eerie laughter over the event. Not a chuckle but a short humorous expression. Something that has had my hackles rise on many occasions in Asia, whenever someone has an incident, that short humorous burst. The small girl runs to see if the cat is hers, lifting it gently from the road she is smiling, it's someone else's. It doesn't remain on the roadside for long, the owner collects it, removing it to his property, a valuable source of meat not to be wasted. The street is again quiet, the old man returned to smoking local tobacco from his bamboo water pipe and the women cook fried banana dough balls waiting for the buses to pass. Two Frenchmen on rented motorcycles, popular in northern Laos remote areas, stop, and we share a coffee. I leave the border town, just 37 km of road construction to Luang Nam Tha, a popular place to start treks to local villages.
4/3/05 It had come over cloudy yesterday afternoon and with thick wet fog this morning pushed me on before threatening rain. The road to Huay Xai is impossible in the wet season, it takes buses eight hours in the dry for the 187 km's. The first 50 km the worst. A one vehicle width track up and over the mountain, across eight small creeks and a couple of log bridges. Amazingly Thai trucks trade goods into China along this route, about 20 passed this morning. Roadworks are being carried out along the entire length in an effort to increase the trade. What looked like a coal mine about half way adds to the truck traffic which digs out the corners on tight curves and powders up the light clay soils. Covered in dust I arrived six hours after leaving and waited a further two hours to get a boat across into Thailand.
The full story of our Harley's travels can be viewed at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/forwood
Trying From Cambodia
1/2/05 I started my difficult challenge to get the motorcycle into Vietnam. Working northward I attempted three border crossings. The first two for locals only, the last one an international border. Ha Tien, at the end of 16 km of dirt out of Kampong Trach was not encouraging from the start. The border side shops had none of the produce that indicate trade between countries or smuggled goods. There were also no vehicles being driven across the border. The one truck I saw was unloading rice to be carried across. Motorcycles were being pushed across, not ridden. I got no further than the police on the Cambodian side, a stone wall attitude, not for foreigners and despite my comment of dollars there was no interest. Back to Kampong Trach then 3 km east a turn off along a dirt road for 12 km more to a river canal crossing into Vietnam. No problems this time in Cambodia but after leaving the bike and taking a ferry to Vietnam another polite wall was put up to my passing. Again not a border for foreigners. Back again and further east to Tane and to the highway 2 and the Tinh Bien crossing. Again no problems with the Cambodians, they allowed me through, asking that I just return to have my passport stamped if I was allowed into Vietnam. All was going well with the Vietnamese customs, almost ready to give approval, immigration stamp already completed, then the Police rejected the motorcycle. My suggestion that the bike could be trucked to Saigon to be shipped to Japan didn't change matters. So the paperwork was unwound and I ended up in Takeo for the night, a little less optimistic of my likely success than before the days start.
2/2/05 I am putting extra effort into getting the motorcycle into Vietnam for two reasons. It's the last country in South East Asia that the bike hasn't visited and it could be a launch pad for China, South Korea and Japan rather than having to return to Thailand and shipping to Japan. Popping in and out along dirt roads near the border also gives an insight into a very different Cambodia than where the tourists are. This flat delta area of the Mekong grows rice on its poorer soils. Most families still live in some form of grass structure, no electricity, except battery power to run lights and TV. Using a mapping CD, Global Explorer, a 1991 edition, I found a couple of roads that disappeared just over the border in Vietnam that could possible have no border checks and, in the dry season perhaps a route deeper into the country. I had also been informed by the Vietnamese consulate in Sihanoukville of another border crossing open to foreigners at Binh Hiep, 35 km south of Svay Rieng. All these options were on the eastern side of the Mekong. I rode back almost to Phnom Penh, then onto Highway 1 east, a bumpy road till the ferry crossing, then newly made asphalt. The Cambodian officials at the Binh Hiep crossing stamped me out but again the Vietnamese refused entry, stating it was not an official foreigner border. I returned to Kampong Ro, eight km, turned east along a dirt track running parallel to the border, always heading right in case a trail crossed the border, asking directions to Vietnam from the many locals. There were small signs of smuggling, fuel drums on a couple of motorcycles and some plastic goods, seen at other border posts. One local, who spoke english, suggested the police arranged for items to cross the border and that I should discuss it with them. He arranged a meeting where I was left in no doubt that I was not welcomed on their territory, that they had no contact with the Vietnamese authorities and that my presence could be jeopardizing their operations. A foreigner with a big bike was more than they were wanting to handle. Again disappointed, to Svay Rieng for the night.
3/2/05 238,857 miles, the distance from the Earth to the Moon, also the distance covered by the motorcycle since starting the trip nine years ago. Headed to the Moc Bai border. Same story. Cambodia let the bike and I through only to be rejected in Vietnam. With a request from me to put the motorcycle on a truck I was pushed up the chain to customs who handed me a written directive from police not to let vehicles in without police approval. At police HQ they advised it was illegal to allow in foreign vehicles. Again no trucks were crossing the border, all produce by hand or on motorcycle. It often amazes me how antiquated Asia is in some of its rules. The only options left seem pretty high risk. Smuggling the bike in, finding a safe hiding place for it, returning to Cambodia to an official border for me to cross legally to Vietnam, then collecting the motorcycle. Svay Rieng again for the night.
4/2/05 I took a dirt track along the eastern side of the Mekong, heading south it passed through small endless poor villages, weaved around waterhole tributaries, crossed over wooden walking bridges and detoured sandy bogs. Only motorcycles travelled the 35 km, or bullock drawn wagons. A small boat, loading cross border rice, was arranged to try and cross the border by water. The bike loaded and we hugged the east bank for an hour before crossing to the west. I had expected the boat to cross into Vietnam but a misunderstanding with the operator had us at Cambodian customs. Again no vehicles, boats included, tourist boats excepted, cross this watery border. I went within minutes of being allowed into Vietnam though. A more friendly border than the others they were at least open to the idea and over two hours discussions occurred between police and customs. Surprisingly the police were in favour of allowing the bike in and it was only the head of customs, who left for the Chinese New Year holiday minutes after the decision, who was against the idea. The second in charge later said he would have let the bike in had his chief not previously said no. Back to Phnom Penh, exhausted and arriving after dark. Again the first 50 km was alongside the Mekong a bouncy dirt track, similar but better than this mornings ride on the eastern side.
5/2/05 That was my last border attempt from Cambodia. A rethink of my plan and after getting a new Laos visa, which will take a few days as it is the weekend, I plan to head out through Thailand then onto northern Laos. Back into civilization and a cleanup of myself and the bike of dust. Replaced the catches on the top box, vibrated to destruction.
6/2/05 This is now my third visit to Phnom Penh, staying at the same guesthouse, lakeside, I was welcomed as a long lost relative, such is the hospitality in this country, particularly returning as so many just pass through, never to be seen again. With so many guesthouses and even more restaurants, the locals needed to work in these businesses and the travel agencies and transport taxi's, there is a second tier support structure level for those staff. They have their own street restaurants and coffee shops. I prefer to eat and drink there. A chance to talk with locals, many speak English in this area, a more sense of belonging. After a few days I am seen more and more as a local, removed from the tourists, and get an insight into how tourists are generally viewed, how they are co-erced to part with more money than they intended, how the local structure works.
7/2/05 Characters abound all over the world but seem more prevalent amongst travellers particularly in Asia. A Canadian, 54 yrs old, at my guesthouse, an ex-movie and advertising director from Singapore, now a budding painter having time away form his Thai wife and two young children, just hanging out in Cambodia because the amphetamines that he needs at 4 a day are only $US 1.00 each on the street here compared with $5 in Bangkok. Using them, and sleep deprivation (only 8 hours a week of sleep), he says he sees his painting creations more clearly. Others here prefer the more mind dulling drugs of alcohol or marijuana. Happy pizzas, yes edible marijuana toppings, are available and advertised openly at some restaurants even though illegal. Five foreigners last year died of drug overdoses in the country.
8/2/05 I'd been looking for a new camera the last few days and ended up with the new Nikon 8800, justifying the price of $US 875.00 as it's new technology, uses the same memory card as the Nikon 5700, I have been using and 80% of the functions are the same. Hopefully the old camera can be repaired in a more modern country to be kept as the spare. Spent most of the day playing with the 8 megapixel, 10 times zoom camera, obtaining my new Laos visa in the afternoon.
9/2/05 The number of people killed on the roads in Cambodia, 1024 last year, is about the same as in the west on a population basis, 11.4 million Cambodians. However the number killed on a per vehicle basis is about nine times that of the west. This is probably the same for most underdeveloped countries. Does that mean it is more dangerous driving here than in the west? Most vehicles here are used constantly, motorcycle taxi's, busses, trucks, with few private under used vehicles like in the west. Most vehicles are full to overloaded, not with just one occupant, so any accident results in more injuries. Ambulances and hospital care is slow and basic, particularly in remote areas, a higher chance of dying as a result of an accident. The vehicles and the people are not protected as well, no seat belts, no helmets, air bags, overloaded, exposed people riding on the outside of vehicles, resulting in higher injuries. Despite most people here not having a license, or having a dodgy one, the driving is of good quality. The speeds are generally slower, reducing injury. On balance I don't think there is a large difference in safety, riding a motorcycle here to riding one in the west.
10/2/05 Left Phnom Penh at 6 am heading west to the Thailand border, 400 km, arriving at 1 pm. Good road except for the last 40 km's of torn up asphalt. It was along this section that the bike didn't steer around a pothole, skidding with me almost dropping it. On inspection I couldn't find anything wrong. It wasn't till it happend again that I noticed that the top crash bar bolt had snapped and vibrated out enough to partially jam up the steering. Luckily it only affected the steering at low speed. Cambodia is basically a flat rice field, mile upon mile of dryland rice, flooded in the wet season. The extra stamps that were in my passport from trying to enter Vietnam confused immigration and kept me waiting for a while otherwise no motorcycle paperwork leaving.
The usual easy and free paperwork entering Thailand for me and the bike. Stayed at the Thai border town of Aranya.
11/2/05 I had slowly become accustomed to the disarray of Cambodia, with its rubbish strewn streets, random moving traffic and farm animals migrating along roads. Thailand now seems tamed, clean, polite, an old man in comparison. I rather liked the unkemptness of Cambodia. Thailand is just an easy way north to Laos and 600 km today, good roads and petrol at two thirds the price of Cambodia, (US$ 0.50c a litre in Thailand). I ended up in Mukdahan in the evening. It's also a place to restock my money. There were no ATM's in Cambodia and only one in Laos, so for the last few weeks I have been living, and buying a camera, on my US$ reserves.
12/2/05 The vehicle ferry to Laos leaves a few times daily, however its sporadic on weekends. Customs cleared the motorcycle yesterday afternoon, despite it not leaving the country, they are not keen to work after hours. They were also encouraged to stamp my carnet, clearing the last entry to Laos stamp that I was unable to cancel when I Left Laos and crossed into Cambodia, with a Thai exit stamp. It is probably of no benefit except it raises less questions with the entry and exit stamps equal. I wish Vietnamese customs were so relaxed. Trucks cross this border from Thailand, through Laos and onto Vietnam. This morning they were lined up at the border and will remain there till Monday morning, not prepared to pay the customs overtime to clear them weekends. They are container trucks, sealed, mostly carrying cigarettes. No chance to put a motorcycle inside for the journey to Vietnam. Mormons, dressed in long black pants, white shirt and tie, travelling in pairs on bicycles are seen all over the world, wherever governments will allow them to preach their faith. A two year service for the Brothers and Sisters of Salt Lake City, they are always enthusiastic to make my acquaintence if spotted. Usually in outlying areas they don't see too many westerners. Talking to a couple yesterday they informed me that Thailand only issues about 170 visas to their religion, not enough to do the work they want to do in the country. Unpaid, funded by themselves or family it is a hard two years. I am usually happy to enter discussions, as long as the "no attempting conversion rules" are established.
13/2/05 Packed up and ready to leave, started the bike and the accelerator cable broke. First time, 410,000 km, not a bad life. Luckily I carry a spare. Many people think I carry too many spares but it's at times like this I am grateful. In fact H-D's have two cables, a push pull system so I changed both. The unbroken one can be a spare if in another 400,000 km the new one breaks. It's a couple of hours job by which time I had missed the limited Sunday ferry schedule to Laos, so another day here. It's not a bad town to hang around for a couple of days. A smattering of tourists go through, mostly older westerners just renewing their Thai visas, a three monthly routine. The people very friendly and the food excellent Thai. I could be in a worse place for an extra night.
14/2/05 There are five barges this side of the river and over 100 trucks lined up to cross. Having cleared customs on Friday I was first loaded and surprised when the ferry left with just me on board. Apparently it was the early morning boat to bring back the first lot of Laos trucks. Thai customs hadn't yet cleared any on this side.
From Lao
14/2/05 Through immigration in five minutes, thirty day stay, and no-one from customs waved me down so I kept moving. Again I wish this was Vietnam. The trucks started to arrive from Thailand at 10.00 am and headed for a customs compound just on the edge of town. Lao being a land locked country relies heavily on this supply route. A bridge is already partially completed across to Thailand anticipating extra trade. I looked into putting the bike on a truck from here to Vietnam but couldn't locate any that crossed the border. Stayed in Savannakhet for the night.
15/2/05 Headed east along a good road the 240 km to Vietnam border at Lao Bao. Rather than attempting the border I approached an import-export business near the border. The owner, with not a lot to do, took me on as his project for the day. Only trucks loaded with Lao timber were crossing, no chance for the motorcycle. Surprised that the motorcycle would not be allowed into Vietnam he sent his employee with my paperwork across the border to check and find out what bribe fee would be required. The answer, a 250cc motorcycle can be bribed in, anything bigger can not be bribed into the country. Undaunted he phoned the Vietnamese consulate for a special permission letter. Request denied. He phoned a friend with police contacts in Vietnam, no approval. Another friend regarding a track around the check point and over the border. A foot track through this hilly area but no motorcycle track. Four hours later he admitted defeat and I retreated 50 km's to stay in Muang Sepon. This area of Laos is some of its poorest. Slash and burn and poor soils in the hills make eking a living difficult.
16/2/05 Laos is still Communist. The people more reserved than neighbouring countries. Less likely to get involved in what others are doing. Holding back on touching or being interested in the motorcycle. It doesn't mean they are less observant, just don't show it outwardly. I rode back towards the border, 20 km short, and took a left turn along a dirt track, ostensibly taking photos of the villages but also to see if it crossed the border. The track deteriorated into a walking track up and over hills broken by creeks and small rivers. At times I was forced to cross as the motorcycle was pointing down hill with nowhere to turn and no-one to push. I was dreading the thought of having to return. It became apparent I was approaching the border as a couple of motorcycles carrying clothing passed, the only smuggled goods I saw.
Into Vietnam
I simply rode past the quiet Laos border post, around the barrier. I just rode past, but was unfortunatley stopped a couple of km's further by a shallow rocky river crossing, where two Vietnamese police on motorcycles caught up and politely insisted I return. Papers were inspected, the motorcycle thoroughly searched and I was then escorted a further 6 km into Vietnam, across the river, where I dropped the motorcycle, to their main office. More inspections of papers, discussions and then insistence that I return the way I had come which I did as far as the river. Then the realization of their intention and I politely refused to proceed. Insisting the motorcycle couldn't make the trip, that I only ended up here because I couldn't go back earlier, insisting I be allowed to ride to Lao Bao, a sealed road to correct the paperwork. There we waited as locals gathered to look at the bike and see what would transpire. Two older men had hands missing, presumably from land mines, more motorcycles crossed with bags of clothes and the water buffalo grazed uninterested. Three hours of insistence and refusal after which the police simply took my papers back to the border (Cua Khau Phu Ban Cheng) and demanded that I must return there to collect them. Left to myself I decided to ride to Lao Bao, really my only option as it was late afternoon, and would have been impossible to travel back over the track in the dark. A new concrete road, cut through the mountains for the first 20 km, then joining an asphalt road being upgraded for the expected increase in traffic across the border. 45 km to Lao Bao and I immediately reported the situation to the border Police. I had managed a couple of photos along the way and talked to locals, obviously never having seen a similar motorcycle. A surprise that my paperwork arrived at the border within 30 minutes of me. The border was closing for the night, wooden carts of scrap metal, old bombs and bomb fragments, pushed by hand were the last to cross. Polite discussions again, clearance with Laos that I was allowed to return and it was after dark that I was escorted across the border, presumably with comments of stupid tourist. Not the sortie into Vietnam I had hoped for on the motorcycle, 60 km, mostly unescorted, not the most rewarding, but the Harley had now been ridden in Vietnam.
Back in Lao
17/2/05 Lao receives a reasonable amount of international aid money. Non Government Organizations vehicles can be seen all over the country. They seem to be at the point of a lot of countries we have visited where this aid is becoming expected. People in countries receiving short term aid are appreciative, long term aid they become expectant, like many places in Africa. They stop looking for solutions to their own problems. I often wonder too why aid agency workers vehicles are always seen at some of the best hotels in town. A little saving there can result in a big difference to the families needing assistance. The smaller hotels are usually locally owned, putting money directly back into the community. Having given up on a meaningful visit to Vietnam I headed north to Thakhek, 300 km, past cleared timber land now with smaller regrowth being cut for charcoal. Children sweeping the fields with metal detectors looking for bomb fragments to sell as scrap metal
18/2/05 Just out of town children with metal detectors were sweeping rice fields for metal to recycle. The USA flew over half a million missions over Laos during the Vietnam war, dropping two million tons of bombs. It is estimated 30% remained unexploded, and at the current rate of clearing it will take the UN over 100 years to declare Laos safe. Stanley, a 72 year old Slovenian American rode his bicycle and mono wheeled trailer from Argentina to Alaska two years ago. He has just ridden from Magadan in north eastern Russia through Mongolia, China, Vietnam and I met him today 80 km out of Vientiane in late morning. For me it was just one hours more ride in the 30 degree plus heat, for him, he arrived at 7 pm after his 140 km day. We had dinner together over his plans to finish his ride around the world across Myanmar, India, Iran etc. to Slovenia. Motivated by the challenge rather than the enjoyment he crossed the Gobi Desert in November with overnight temperatures of -20 and Christmased in Beijing snow before heading southward. We both agreed that despite the calendar having 6 months of spring and autumn combined, finding consistent temperatures of mid to low 20's, perfect for riding bicycle or motorcycle, is still difficult.
19/2/05 Two days ago I noticed a crack in the tubing of the main frame of the motorcycle. On the front left there is a bracket supporting the foot board, stand and crash bars that is welded to the frame tubing. On the rear underneath side the crack extended about 70% of the way around the tubing, probably stressed by hitting rocks with the foot board brackets and crash bars when dropped. I had ridden cautiously over the last two days to Vientiane to have it repaired. Businesses in Asia seem to be in a hurry to get a job done rather than getting a good job done. I almost always have to slow down the process allowing thinking time. By grinding a gouge in the frame and weld filling, welding two supports to strengthen the frame and attached to the bracket, hopefully it will be stronger than original. Two hours of me grinding and directing, and them welding, for just $US 5.00. Someone along the way once commented that if you start spending more money on the motorcycle than on yourself you need to rethink the priorities. In Asia with petrol at $US 0.60 cents a litre and a few parts bought from home it's conceivable that when riding a lot of km's a day that the motorcycles expenses would indeed exceed mine.
20/2/05 Headed north to Vang Vieng, the beginning of the mountains. Immediately greener though the air is hazy from rice stalk burning and land clearing along with dry season lack of rain. Vang Vieng was a small village along a river with lovely limestone mountains as a backdrop. For better or worse tourists discovered the area and it has now grown into a drop out place. The main street is lined with restaurants with raised eating areas like in the Sinai, Israeli salads and Hebrew menus. It also has the "Happy" foods menu (marijuana) in pizza, drinks, pasta or almost anything else. Each restaurant has a TV and enormous selection of latest release pirated DVD movies but the main showings are episodes of "Friends". Patrons sit relaxed as the world passes by. There are other activities, elephant rides, visits to caves, canoeing or tubing. Despite the drugs Laos seems to have minimalised the impact of tourists on the sex trade by making it illegal for foreigners to have sex with any Lao national. I have seen no signs of sex workers here, unlike in Thailand and Cambodia where the trade is openly displayed.
21/2/05 Tourism has passed many of the locals by. The older generation going about their lives as always, oblivious to the tourist development surrounding them. Growing small vegetable plots, grazing buffalo, collecting weed and fishing in the river, traditionally dressed and using ancient methods. It's not often that I can be in an area where locals will ignore me where they carry on in a traditional way. But having so many tourists the locals don't see me photographing as they move through daily chores. Most things seem to be done as a social event. The building of a community hut, tidying up a towns rubbish. Even ordinary chores are open to the neighbours, bathing or washing clothes in the river. House fronts are often open as shops, restaurant bathrooms double as the houses bathroom. Meals are often prepared in front of the house watching people watch people. I washed the dust off the motorcycle, riding it into the river where two elephants and their mahouts had strolled earlier.
22/2/05 A popular all day tour is mini bus to a local village, canoe down river to a cave, jumping from a platform or rope swinging into the river, lunch, more canoeing, another cave, a beer, watching the slow moving dope smoking tube riders float by, more canoeing back to Vang Vieng. Thirteen were in our group, a relatively quiet bunch, the river at low water progress was slow. We arrived at the first cave as a few locals were heading inside. With leaves they lit sticks of bamboo as a light, hurrying through as they burnt quickly. This cave, from one side to the other of the mountain, a shortcut to climbing over. The locals, with chain saw, were heading into the hills to illegally cut timber which would be floated through the cave in the wet season. Our canoes all leaked, having been pounded on rocks many times, slowly filling with water they became unstable and everyone ended up swimming at least once.
23/2/05 A day relaxing, sitting on the balcony of my bamboo hut overlooking river and karst mountains. The diary web page has become so extensive over the last nine years that finding information is difficult. I recently started a new section, called short stories, which summarizes certain aspects of the trip. Some are factual others just of interest. Each story requires a lot of research on my part as nine year old memories aren't accurate. It's a good way to review the trip in my spare time, write a summary, and publish to the web. Something that occupied my relax day today.
24/2/05 Just 230 km but a slow mountain road with great scenery through the dry season haze to Luang Prabang. It's here the mountain people have been harvesting the land for centuries. The trees gone, the main cash crop comes from making brooms. The feathery seed heads of a reed like mountain grass is collected, deseeded, to make the soft brooms. The fields grow cabbages on the good soil, and a four year rotation of crops on the hillsides. Many villages have relocated to the roadside to take advantage of the transport and electricity. Often not the best location, perched one house deep between the road and hillside. Children with little land to play on wave from balconies as people pass by.
25/2/05 I spent today planning the trip across Russia, Mongolia to Central Asia. Not being able to enter eastern Russia till June because of the weather and not wanting to get stuck in Central Asia after winter starts in November it looks like it will be a short stay in Australia.
26/2/05 Another days research on the next six months, working out km's for the trip using http://www.mapquest.com, and a different route could have me in the middle East by the wedding, and a warmer spot in December to return to.
27/2/05 Luang Prabang is on a peninsula between two rivers. Laos original capital it has wat's dating back to the 16th century and plenty of French architecture to add to its appeal. Lao has become a tourist destination and this town is its most notable attraction drawing fly in tourists visiting the region. The main street is lined with European theme restaurants with French the predominant. Prices here match the level of tourism, more upmarket tour groups. It is starting to go a little like other UNESCO listed towns of Europe, a town specifically for tourists. The wat's attract many novice monks, 100 can be seen each morning lining the main street to collect alms from the faithful. The same number, or more, tourists arrive in mini buses to photograph the event. After being house bound for two days it was great walking the streets, looking at old buildings and being a tourist.
28/2/05 Most people take the boat to Nang Khiaw, six hours but the road follows the river almost all the 140 km's. The Portuguese couple, next to my room have been spending time in Luang Prabang waiting for their Thai meditation course to begin. At the last minute Barbara asked if she could come on the motorcycle. One of the best days riding. Stopped at a local village, grass and bamboo huts, a battery operated satellite TV bringing them the leap into the 21 st century. We wandered about for an hour, children following, women cleaning tree bark for processing into strips for baskets or making grass roof panels. The men, mostly idle as usual, sitting smoking and talking. Another stop where the river weed is dried, flattened and tomato, garlic and sesame seeds added, eaten as a snack. Tobacco, an alternative cash crop, becoming more popular, also seen drying roadside. Barbara tried some of the local product wrapped in a page of an old school note book, as the locals here smoke. Nong Khaiw has a few guest houses overlooking the river. Later in the afternoon we entered one of the local caves. With a small torch, lantern and candles climbed and crawled for almost two hours into the mountain, often in mud or down muddy slopes. Bats and cave crickets our only companions.
1/3/05 This area of Laos was heavily bombed during the Vietnamese war. The people moved their town into caves nearby and built a hospital, bank and markets there. The main cave, high up a cliff was only accessible by a long bamboo ladder. Four of us explored the caves and offshoots further into the mountain, in the afternoon, washing off some of the dust in the nearby river. It's an easy relaxed village, with guest house restaurants overlooking the river traffic and events.
2/3/05 230 km through Udomxai to the Chinese border crossing at Boten. Slow, averaging 40 km/hr over mountains, many small villages, many open treed areas and little traffic, universal in Laos. The last 20 km to the border under a Chinese road construction team, dirty and dusty. Arriving at the border at 4 pm, it took fifteen minutes to convince the Lao officials to allow me through to check if China would allow the motorcycle entry. Having left my passport on the Laos side as return security, and arriving at 4.30 pm, right on border closing time, the 20 police officials saluting the lowering of their flag were not flexible in my request to enter with the motorcycle. I was coldly advised that only with an escorted Chinese tour would the motorcycle be allowed entry. Trucks, cars and buses appear to cross the border, only with Laos or Chinese registration. The town of Na Toei, customs clearance in Laos, 20 km from the border and where I stayed the night, in the only guest house, just three rooms. This is not the normal thriving border town where smuggling or trade is the main business. This is a quiet town, a little bit excited now because of business brought by road construction.
3/3/05 Death comes instantly to the cat caught under the wheels of a border crossing truck as I eat my breakfast at one of the many outdoor restaurants. The town is awake and there is eerie laughter over the event. Not a chuckle but a short humorous expression. Something that has had my hackles rise on many occasions in Asia, whenever someone has an incident, that short humorous burst. The small girl runs to see if the cat is hers, lifting it gently from the road she is smiling, it's someone else's. It doesn't remain on the roadside for long, the owner collects it, removing it to his property, a valuable source of meat not to be wasted. The street is again quiet, the old man returned to smoking local tobacco from his bamboo water pipe and the women cook fried banana dough balls waiting for the buses to pass. Two Frenchmen on rented motorcycles, popular in northern Laos remote areas, stop, and we share a coffee. I leave the border town, just 37 km of road construction to Luang Nam Tha, a popular place to start treks to local villages.
4/3/05 It had come over cloudy yesterday afternoon and with thick wet fog this morning pushed me on before threatening rain. The road to Huay Xai is impossible in the wet season, it takes buses eight hours in the dry for the 187 km's. The first 50 km the worst. A one vehicle width track up and over the mountain, across eight small creeks and a couple of log bridges. Amazingly Thai trucks trade goods into China along this route, about 20 passed this morning. Roadworks are being carried out along the entire length in an effort to increase the trade. What looked like a coal mine about half way adds to the truck traffic which digs out the corners on tight curves and powders up the light clay soils. Covered in dust I arrived six hours after leaving and waited a further two hours to get a boat across into Thailand.
The full story of our Harley's travels can be viewed at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/forwood
