EJK Fuel Controller. Anybody using one?

Maoser

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2013
Location
BKK
Basically a plug n play fuel controller.

They come with a preset base line for the stock version of your bike, and another for stage 1 modifications (air filter and after market exhaust). Actually they don't have them preset, they tell you what numbers to select each colour button to for those mods.

You can also just change the numbers as you want.


EFI Controllers - Electronic Jet Kit - Motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, Sportbikes, Snowmobiles, Watercraft, Dirt Bikes


Very user friendly.

Example for a CBR250.

EFI Controllers - Electronic Jet Kit - Motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, Sportbikes, Snowmobiles, Watercraft, Dirt Bikes

and you can demo using it on their site.

EJK Controller Unit Functionality


Available in Thailand for 8k baht.

http://www.ejkthailand.com/


Is anybody using one on their bike? Or have experience of using them on a bike?

cheers.
 
I too am interested in hearing anyone's thoughts on this controller. I'd additionally like to know if anyone has actually purchased through the Thai representative?
 
Natty Bike are sound.

Widely known and respected. They are also the official Thai distributor. There would be no issues on that side of things.


I currently run a K&N airfilter, and will likely get the Tsukigi full system with TIS Stamp (making it legal in Thailand), and then this fuel controller and also a 13T front sprocket.

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Even without the Stage 1 mods it seems to be a good purchase for a stock bike.
 
I fitted one to my CRF-M for a year and apart from minor savings it wasn't really worth fitting. TNT Motors in Fang are selling them for 7,500 baht
 
Hi
I have one and i use it for over a year on my CRF .
Beginning of the month i was at the Burning shop in CM they had one in stock .

What i can tell you is , it works as long as you want only more fuel depend it can only add fuel not set the ratio lower then stock .
Its easy to connect , remove the plug to the injector and connect it to the EJK and the second EJK Plug to the Injektor .
Plus 12V from the Ignition and the last wire to ground , done .
If you install a switch in the Ground wire you can switch it on and of without reconnect the Original Plug to the Fuel injektor .

Off, drive distance with low Fuel consumption , on if you don't care for the Fuel consumption .

The settings you need to find out for your setup .
If you cange Exhoust , Airfilter then you need one to bring the CRFs very lean original setup back to the correct fuel /air ratio .
The orignal installed Lamda Probe (small black Plug on the Downframe over the Cylinder head ) must be disconect as this will counteract the EJK settigs .
If the Lamda Probe gets disconnect (brings also a little bit more fuel without the EJK ) the Trouble light next to the Fuel display may start flashing.
Dont worry just drive , it flash the trouble code for the malfunktion of the Lamda Probe and will stop after about 50 km .
At this Point the PGMFi memory settings are overriden and the PGMFI see the disconect Lamda Probe as normal .

From this Point you can play with the EJK settings to find the best settings for you .
The EJK allowed to set the aditional fuel for low , middle and full trottle openingens .and the Point where it switch from one setting to the next i.e midrange to full .

But the EJK can not add fuel from idle to about 1800 rpm . Thats the job of the PGMFI only .
If you open your Airbox/ filter to much you get two or three problems .
A very poping exhoust if you close the trottle downhill and a shit transition from PGMFI only to PGMFI plus EJK operation .
and maybe a engine thats very easy pop of at idle or when you quickly close the trottle and pull the clutch .

I have a solution for that but thats someting for hardcore freaks that can modify elektronik stuff .

Anyway in my opinion the Takegawa Fuel controller from Japan is better in my opinion .
The conection to the CRF's wireing loom is more complicated and only in Japanese but its cheaper as the EJK and it works better .
At the Takegawa you have to select one of the preprogramed maps for the CRF via dipswitch and after you store that you can select at the same dipswitch how much fuel you want to add or subtract from the PGMFI Fuel settings .

I need with the Takegawa less fuel and have better power as with the EJK .
 
Thanks for the info.

I'd be using one for a CBR250. Fuel consumption doesn't bother me, with a full system pipe and K&N airfilter it would be nice to get a fuel controller. And 8k or under it seems to be the best value in Thailand for a non-serious rider. If it gives a decent bump even in a stock bike in stock settings it seems a good purchase.
 
Thanks for your response Klaus, I know we discussed this together last month.

What I'm missing is what does this EJK practically do? It uses more fuel and you get 'a decent bump'.

So we are talking more power here yes? Enough to make it worth while? Compensate for the decrease in fuel efficiency?

I'm aware of that many riders do the 'Stage 1' modifications, especially on the CRF 250L.

Thanks!
 
Thanks for your response Klaus, I know we discussed this together last month.

What I'm missing is what does this EJK practically do? It uses more fuel and you get 'a decent bump'.

So we are talking more power here yes? Enough to make it worth while? Compensate for the decrease in fuel efficiency? I'm aware of that many riders do the 'Stage 1' medications, especially on the CRF 250L.

From what I gather it allows you to easily alter the fuel for the low end, acceleration and top end. Each one having a different colour (green, yellow and red), you select the number for each colour and it adds the extra fuel accordingly.

They give you a set of numbers that they say is best for the stock bike. They also give you a set of numbers that they say are best for Stage 1 mods.

I think that most bikes run pretty lean nowadays (the CBR250 and CRF250) being two of them. So that richening the mixture would give you more power. You can do this with the EJK by increasing the numbers for whatever part of the range you want to increase (lower end, higher end, acceleration).


I think I am correct, but could be completely wrong. :D

I haven't had time to look on their site yet, but they have a demo you can do, add the numbers to the different colours, not sure if it has a graph along side that shows you the hypothetical power increases as you do so.

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Anybody please feel free to correct anything I have written that is completely wrong and arse about elbow. Cheers. :)
 
their demo at the end of this page is good, and shows how quick and easy it is to use.

The Picture/graph at the end of this page shows where each color adjust the fuel.

I thought this was nice of them:

FAQ

"I've purchased a big bore kit. How do I go about getting a re-flash?


Re-flashes are handled by our technical department through the warranty returns. The only cost is for shipping both ways. Please contact us about a re-flash to upgrade your controller. "
 
From a Thai site:

Best numbers for a stock CBR250

MODE LIGHT SETTINGS
GREEN 1.5
YELLOW 1.5
RED 2.5
G-B 5
Y-B 4
R-B 4.5

Best numbers for a Stage 1 modded CBR250 (Aftermarket air-filter and exhaust)

MODE LIGHT SETTINGS
GREEN 3
YELLOW 3
RED 6
G-B 5
Y-B 4
R-B 4.5

?????????????? ?????? EJK

Playing on their EJK demo it looks like it would take about 5 easy minutes or less to put all the numbers into each colour.
 
Dyna-Super-Glide-09-Cam-EJK.jpg


FZ-07-axis-dyno-stock-EJK.jpg
 
Basicly everyone ist right with the Info .

Todays Bikes get from the Factorys set up very lean depend fuel economy sell and emision laws a tide .

But that dos't mean that the engine is running best on factory settings .
and the CBR/CRF 250 engines are set up very lean from Honda .
I work in my Main Job on Big Glass melting Furnaces for the last 30 years .
Basicly i am resposible for every beer bottle you ever touch in Thailand and Asia
Total differnt thing , same prinzip . If the Fuel /Air Ratio is not perfect you don't get the full Power out of a furnace and waste fuel . Big time
Talking about 1000 m/3 Gas a Day or a few hundred Liter of Diesel/Heavy Oil a hour.

So part of my Job is to set up this Furnace correct and for this reason i have all the equipment to mesure Lamda , Fuel /Air ratios CO and so on .

The CRF is set up so lean in stock that at closed trottle/ idle it run only on the smell of Gasoline .
I can not write the numbers here depend i am not at home right now but at first checks i was thinking my Instruments are damage and recalibrate the sensors.
But nearly every Engine produced its best power at about Lamda 0,87 and thats much richer then the stock CRF engine .

And that is why stock CRF engines feel so powerless if you try to do as example a quick start or open the trottle full at low revs .

Installing a high Flow Airfilter , open the Airbox (not recomend) or cut the snorkel out of the Aibox and install a other Muffler without Catalytic Converter increase
the Airflow through the engine . The PGMFI don't messure this Airflow direct , it messure the underpressure at the Trottle body and from this value calculate the Air Mass .

And for the given Air Mass it needs the correct amount of fuel . normaly about 14/1 Air/ Fuel
But the PGMFI is not programmed to do so just to follow the amount of air your modification let it use , it has its limits .

And thats where Fuel Controllers come in .

In case of the EJK it (the EJK ) gets the signal from the PGMFI (timing and duration) and modify the values to allow the fuel injector to stay longer open to let more fuel through. (simply sayed)

And this in 3 steps different low / middle and high
The transition between the Steps can be adjust and the amount of fuel in each step .
That is what the differnt numbers and lights on the EJK are for .

How much more fuel in each step is necessary is depend on the modifications (airfilter,muffler )
And thats why there are sets of differnt setting on the Internet

But they must not be necessary the correct one for you and your bike .
Riding in Phuket (Sealevel) and in the mountains around CM make a different also the Shit you put here in your Tank.

And as you open everything up to let the engine getting more air the engine runs leaner and leaner below 1800 RPM even with the EJK .
Depend on my tests i see that the aditional fuel that the ejk add start at around this RPM's

And that makes the Bike feel even weaker at start and then comes the bump with the aditional fuel and more Power.
I had that with my mods (2 short snorkel in the Airbox and a Huricane Airfilter , FMF full system . Feels shit and make you always try to keep the revs up .
Plus the engine pops out every few minutes and pops in the exhoust if i close the Trottle downhill .

I found a solution for this but thats another thing.

From what i have seen with the EJK is that ajusting the Fuel in 3 steps is not enough to give the engine in every situation the correct amount of fuel .
Sometimes its to rich , sometimes to lean and sometimes correct . in ech of the 3 steps . At full trottle its not so a big problem but at low revs small trottle openings
i was in all my tests and settings not able to get it more then 75 % correct . There was always a situation where the Lamda value was to rich or to lean .

But overall it improves the ridabillity of the engine , no question .

The Takegawa Fuel controller i use at the moment is better depend it uses a preprogramed map for differnd bike setups like stage 1 , 2,3,4,5,6, and so on and on top uf that it adds fuel that can be also adjust in the amount . All that adjust by a dipswitch on the controller .
And it deliver the necessary amount of fuel in my opinion more precise and can also decrese the amount of fuel the PGMFI want deliver .
For that reason the conection of the Takegawa Controller is a little more complicated , it need the Ignition timing , Trottle position and some more information to calculate the Injektion timing and duration on its own . And it is able to deliver more fuel from about 1400 to 1500 RPM , that make a big differnce as it is closer to idle.
 
O.K. and now the ultimativ low cost trick .

Get some of the Silicone Water Hoses for the CRF (depends the Original are Paper thin) and a Fan trigger switch from the CBR 150.
Thats unlike the CRF's analog sensor a on/of switch at about 94 degree Celsius .

Then you need a Adapter that allow you to install the CBR 150 Fan Switch into the Water Hose next to the Thermostat .
That can be selfmade or you buy on from Koso or one of the other companys that sell stuff like that .
Left side of the Bike the one that goes from the Cylinder head to the Cooler .
Next you need to locate the CRF's Fan Relais under the left Sidepanel next to the Batterie .

Now disconnect the wire from the PGMFI ECU to the Fan Relais Coil and connect the CBR 150 Fan Switch to trigger the Fan Relais . Power from Batterie , not Ignition , the Fan need to run like original if its hot even if you switch the Ignition of .

If that is done the Fan will be switched on from the CBR Switch insteed from the ECU .

And now comes the Fuel mod .

Remove the grey Plug under the Trottle Body on the back side of the Cylinder .
Thats the CRF's analog temperatuere sensor , that signal is going to the ECU and get there used to trigger normaly the Fan at 92 degree celsius
and adjust the Fuel for Cold Start (like a choke on a Carburator ) and the fuel amount even if the engine is warm .

Now cut one of the 2 Wires that go to that plug and connect on both ends a new Cable and route this under the Seat .
There you connect a Plug (min 2 Pin ) and in the counterpart of the Plug you install a 750 Ohm 1/2 W precise Resistor .

That way you can go easy back to stock with a jumper or change the resistor .

Reconect the Plug to the Temperatur sensor and you are done .
The 750 Ohm brings the resistance of the Temperatur sensor in the range where the ECU think the Engine is cold (About 40 degree ) and it activate
the Choke function a little that give a little bit more Fuel even when the engine is hot.
But unlike the Choke on a Carburator the Fuel is going over the Fuel injector and not just dump in to a Carb.
like all or nothing.

Result , the engine gets from the Stock ECU always more fuel even at Idle and up and runs much better and stronger at low revs .
No Problems below the RPM's where the Fuel controllers start to add fuel .

On my CRF i often start in 3 gear when i forget to downshift on Red Lights .
I run the bike now for over a year with that mod without any negative effect except the Gas consumption from 4,1-4,2 L /100 km
 
Installing a high Flow Airfilter , open the Airbox (not recomend) or cut the snorkel out of the Aibox and install a other Muffler without Catalytic Converter increase
the Airflow through the engine . The PGMFI don't messure this Airflow direct , it messure the underpressure at the Trottle body and from this value calculate the Air Mass .

And for the given Air Mass it needs the correct amount of fuel . normaly about 14/1 Air/ Fuel
But the PGMFI is not programmed to do so just to follow the amount of air your modification let it use , it has its limits .

And thats where Fuel Controllers come in .

It probably should be pointed out that getting more air flowing through the engine and no extra fuel it is actually running leaner than standard?
 
Correct , and to lean lead to explosiv detonation at the Combustion Chamber that can damage the engine .

I have a nice collection of 2 stroke Pistons with holes in the crown to demonstrate this .
 
A bit late Klaus but thanks - I had a theory that it would be cheap and easy to frig the mixture by fooling the temp sensor but never got around to more research, you've backed up the fact it's not such a crazy idea!
 
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