Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang via Nan border crossing

nikster

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
The first time is always the best, right? First off road trip, first time in the dirt, first time biking into Laos, first time on any kind of bike trip for Eddie... etc - lots of first on this trip, which is half what made it so much fun.

Phil of Rider's Corner had provided us with a great but as it turned out much too ambitious map and route in his GPS, which should be our only guide. Other than that, two noobs on rented KLX250s. We didn't even have a map of Laos which was a mistake. In return we promised to write a ride report here - my first one.

We thought it would be great because it would just be us - no experts to help, no people with any knowledge about Laos whatsoever...

Planned Route: Chiang Mai - Nan border crossing (heck if I know what it's called) - Hongsa - Luang Prabang - Pakse (?) - Chiang Kong - Chiang Mai.

== Day 1 ==

Phil had promised us that by day 1 we could make the border and into Hongsa. But before that, we first had to get bikes. We got bikes, then had to get all sorts of paperwork to cross into Laos; POP bike rental had given us some, but they were not deemed enough by Phil. We didn't want to take a risk so we got everything we could possibly get, more paperwork from POP, and transport office stamps which we got from C&S bike rental. I recommend C&S, super nice lady there, very helpful even though she didn't have bikes available at that time.
Eddie's bike only got as far as the gas station 100m down the road, then the battery failed. We returned it and got another one.

120 viewpoint. The 120 is an awesome little racetrack of a road up here in the north, but on the sluggish-on-road KLX250 with knobby tires it's not much fun.
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We left Chiang Mai afternoon-ish, and going at a rather slow pace were nowhere near the border by nightfall.
In fact we were out in the middle of nowhere on the 1148 (I think). We asked a local about accommodation and he said it's 49km from where we were... we thought that can't be true and did some experimenting with the "find accommodation" feature of the GPS. That lead nowhere, and the villager turned out to be right, we found a guest house after 49km of night riding through unknown territory later. So you see even the 1148 can be an adventure if you have no clue where you are.

While on the twisty curves of the 1148 I found that the KLX250 can be ridden like a supermotard. I was flying through the corners at 80 - 90 kph and thought to myself: I can't believe this slow, weak bike can fly through the curves like that, and was beginning to utterly enjoy myself. Until I hit the limits of the tires, lost the front, and both bike and myself were sliding across the oncoming lane onto the curb.

This all happened rather quickly, and in my adrenaline induced shock state I picked up the bike and was going to go on right away... but then found whoops, the gear doesn't shift.

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Eddie arrived and told me to calm down and wait a moment and inspect bike and rider. My wrist was hurting and already swollen but otherwise the impact was all absorbed by gear: Hole in the left knee, right elbow, left shoulder and arm, and helmet. Gloves and boots probably saved me some nasty scratches too. Bike had a bent clutch lever and gear shifter but was otherwise OK.

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The gear shifter hat gotten stuck up on the engine but was easily bent back with my bare hands (some leftover adrenaline?!).
 
== Day 2 ==

Still a good 100kms from the border, outside Nan, we went to the local hospital to check my wrist. It hurt like hell at this point and no way of getting it into a glove. We both agreed to abandon the trip if broken, and carry on if not. Eddie helpfully explained that he knows people who did all sorts of extreme things while carrying a fractured wrist... ok then! Great hospital with some nice young doctors and somebody died in the ER right when we arrived which put my wrist pain into some perspective.

The blurry X-Ray was inconclusive but "probably OK". The docs gave me some pills which turned out to be Codeine(!). I took some tylenols instead.

Getting a brace in the hospital. And a sling. "Don't move it for a few days". Hmm-hm.
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I was starting to feel good about the trip again, going towards the border even though riding with my right hand in a brace was ... not ideal to say the least. I couldn't brake with the front brake for one thing. But we'd come this far, so ... after a stop for a GPS issue - oh yeah the GPS had fallen off and was now held in place by some cell-o-tape from a local store - my bike wouldn't start anymore, dead battery. Push started bike and all OK again.

As we were nearing the border I had a flat tire. Naturally, we had lost the spare tubes off our bikes, and so I was limping to the border station for the last 30kms. A grumpy man was woken from his well deserved slumber to plug the hole. Cost: 40 Baht! Amazing Thailand!

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2 hours of border formalities later, we were in Laos! On a huge under-construction dirt road - it will lead to the GINORMOUS coal power plant which will probably destroy the lush valley of Hongsa about 4 years from now when it's done. Project is financed by the Thai electric company, 90% of its output will go to Thailand, 10% will go to Lao and will be more than all the power combined in Laos at the moment.

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Near hongsa we were greeted by friendly locals inviting us to a beer lao! Awesome. They also told us Jumbo Guest house in Hongsa.

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By nightfall we arrived in Hongsa. Either due to an unexpected boom in tourism, or due to the Hongsa Power plant all hotels were booked out. We asked around 7, then went to search for the aforementioned Jumbo guest house. Lovely little place had 2 nice rooms available - we were happy!
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Oh yeah we also checked out the disco in Hongsa. It was completely empty and playing horrible music. I think we were there too early, Eddie thinks it was going to stay that way all night. Either way waiting around in the music wasn't an option so we went back to the guest house, talked to some mildly annoying backpackers, and went to bed.
 
== Day 3 ===

We finally hit the dirt road! It's gorgeous, as promised, and not too hard which was much appreciated by my still-hurting wrist. We had a blast riding from Hongsa to Luang Prabang. First incident-free day and GPS led us directly to a nice guest house in LP - nice touch, Phil!

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Eddie entertained some hill tribe kids in the first village we came across. Great, great kids, a bit shy with the farangs of course.

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A few river crossings kept things interesting
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More kids
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Awesome! These kids were just coming home from school and absolutely mobbing us. Still a remote village, but this one had power, and so TV, and so one of them immediately identified my phone as an iPhone 4!

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More rivers...
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Pretty effective ice pack at a stop (waiting for Eddie to backtrack and collect stuff that had fallen out of his bag)

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Finally, the Mekong across from Luang Prabang.
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Waiting for the ferry.
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Explored the night life in LP and went to bed a bit late that day...
 
== Day 4 ==
The best breakfast in LP- unbelievable croissants. The first bite tasted like heaven.
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Now we were in LP one day late and unsure about our ability to do the route suggested on the GPS in 2 days. So we decided to just go back the same way, and had a blast on that beautiful road again.

Leaving LP
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Last gas station. I was getting crazy bad fuel economy from my KLX250, 100km and the fuel light would flash. Might have been something wrong with it...
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Took us half the time of the day before so we went from LP all the way across the border and into Nan that night.
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Eddie crashed his bike, no injuries thanks to protective gear, but another and this time much worse bent gear shifter. Got the tools and Eddie did a very fine job bending it back into a usable state. It was either that or... staying in Laos for another day...
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Across the border in good time:
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Nan was fun, and that's all that shall be said here.

Next day returning the bike. POP was more than fair charging us only for 2 bent clutch levers, and using the official Kawasaki price list.

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They chose to ignore newly scratched panels and broken rear indicators on both bikes. No complaints!
 
Great story and pics - happy to hear that you guys made it and that the bikes and the GPS worked OK. Took Phil and me quite some time to put the routes and waypoints for the guesthouses in the night before you left on the trip. Monica/Jumbo is OK to stay for a night or two as Monica is quite a character and, if she is in the mood, can make very nice meals.
 
Thanks for the great report!! Really enjoyed it, and looks like you 2 had a really great time, that's what i like reading the best. And you totally rolled with the nasty twists and turns of the trip, very well done! Thanks for sharing, enjoyed the pix too, recognize some of the kids, did the same HongSa to Luang Prabang route not 10 days ago. They're even wearing the same clothes, so it's good Phil and the guys are working hard to deliver clothing to Laos.

Looking forward to your next trip report!

Mike
 
Lone Rider said:
Great story and pics - happy to hear that you guys made it and that the bikes and the GPS worked OK. Took Phil and me quite some time to put the routes and waypoints for the guesthouses in the night before you left on the trip. Monica/Jumbo is OK to stay for a night or two as Monica is quite a character and, if she is in the mood, can make very nice meals.

The route was great, just feel a bit sorry we couldn't do the second leg. Another time! I still have the map, and the route! It also took us a while to figure out that the waypoints listed in the GPS were all by distance "as the bird flies". We'd see, hey, the border is only 10km... 60kms later we were like... where is it? It only took 3 or 4 of those incidents until we figured out what it's doing. We're a bit spoiled from Google maps I guess...
 
It sounds like you both had a great time, glad to hear your accident wasnt anything too serious, it would have sucked to have broken your hand on the way there
 
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