DETAILED PICS ON REQUEST !! the pics in this add are low res. due to file size limits on the forum, furthermore the bike is dirty. underneath dirt- a good layer of WD40. (if ur INTERESTED IN BUYING u can EMAIL ME, we can talk pics then, besides sitting on forums is not my thing, so again, email. thanx for understandin' ). >> dexentric@gmail.com)
currently in south Lao.
bike was bought and rebuilt in 2010/2011 with true 50 000km on the clock, accident free.(€2500)
bought and rebuild by a bmw specialist, who worked 15 years in an authorised bmw service in holland, now he's HyperPro suspension specialist. always riding himself these particular bikes to this day- R80's and R100's. not only he knows these bikes through and through, but always has and still does love riding these bikes, as much as working on them. that is why i chose him as the man for the job.
so he bought the bike and rebuild it for me. i was a part of this process, even done some work myself, but he's the specialist. the point i'm trying to make, is that the rebuilt of the bike wasn't a business venture. it was not done for money. we didn't cut any corners. everything was done the best way possible. which is why the budget went from the initial €12 000, to €20 000, which is what the project ended up costing me. (mind you, the labour was done at a friend rate, most of the parts primo rate, so most of the money went for parts and materials).
the objectives were to make the bike faster, stronger, lighter, more reliable, and made for adventure riding around the globe.
and it does indeed have a lot more torque then standard R100R, and a little more power, i never measured exactly how much.
we took about 20kg off the bike, mostly from the top, which made the CG much lower, without jeopardizing the much needed GC. (CG=center of gravity, GC= ground clearance)
furthermore,
frames, racks, covers, and brackets were either just sandblasted, or blasted and powder coated, wheels were polished, and other parts were new. only cylinder heads look old, i cleaned them a little, but it was taking too long, so they could be cleaned better. same goes for the engine block, it was cleaned but not to perfection. front cover was blasted. cylinders new(power kit).
take a good look at pics from 2010.
these are mainly to show how much effort (and money) was put into rebuilding this bike.
CHASSIS:
original R100R- 1993.
>>>REAR:
WHEEL- original 17 inch spoked tubeless with side valve for easy access, ( also changed, the original wheels on the bike where sandblasted and looking really ugly, so after changing the front -for the sake of the size-, i decided to buy a good looking rear as well, €250)
tyre: Metzeler Tourance- NEW.
MUDGUARD- Acerbis, cut in a half and only rear part of it is mounted on the rear frame to make that line of the bike, there's another mudguard fitted under seat made of shoe sole material mounted on the frame, to protect seat and the rest from mud.
TOP CASE RACK -was cut off to save weight, (2kg), and not to put additional weight behind the rear axle, which affects the balancing off road. (the whole frame was powdercoated)
PANIER RACKS -original, (the lightweight version), so can fit original bmw seiten koffers.
two 'TOOL TUBES'- fitted on the inside of the panier racks, on both sides of the wheel, one holding stove fuel bottle 1liter, the other 1 liter oil bottle with custom made cap with hose attached for easy/clean filling (~€60)
>>>FRONT:
FORK- R100GS from (~1991)
WHEEL- R1150GS (19 inch spoked tubeless) -(€`250) ,
original was 18 inch, which is too small for off-road riding and impossible to get off-road tyres, i thought about putting on a 21inch, but then the steering on-road is not great, hence the 19inch- the Middle Way.
tyre: Metzeler Karoo 3- NEW.
MUDGUARD- R1200GS(~€100)
MUDGUARD BRACKET- strong custom made powder coated aluminium, 2010, (~€250)
HANDLEBAR- Rizoma from 2010.
HANDLEBAR BRACKET- Rizoma(2010)
HANDLEBAR RISERS(2012)- a set of rigid bmw risers(€50) + a set of pivoting SW Motech risers from 2012 ( €100)
GRIPS- non heated original BMW R100
Cruise Control- BMW R1200GS (2010)
Hand Guards-* BMW F800GS twin (2010), ( ~€120), (three stage : metal bars+plastic guards+wind flaps)
MIRRORS- after market* light off road fitted on RAM Mounts
>>>CENTER:
CYLINDER LUGGAGE RACKS(2011) : custom made alu tube powder coated mounted on the main frame (€500)
CENTER STAND- original
SIDE STAND- stainless steel -tuning (~€100)
PEGS:
driver- PIVOT PEGZ (~€150)*
passenger- small,lightweight alu from some sports bike, customised, (~€100)
OIL SUMP PROTECTION- custom made powder coated, 2010, (~€250)
ENGINE PROTECTION- no need for that, bike lands on valve covers first, and the square type covers we used are very strong, both have scratches on them, i had a few falls, but nothing too serious.
>>>TOP:
SEAT:
original BMW R100R -KAHEDO remade in 2010 (€250), better comfort for those lonely highways, anti-slip cover.
FUEL:
TANK - original 22 liter, anti slip leather pads on sides custom made
tank was cleaned inside, and treated with the anti-rust paint (2010)
the tank has some damage to paintwork, and a couple of dents. with this kind of use it's unavoidable.
under the tank there's two hoses, snorkels, which are disconnected, but if need be they can be put on the air box inlets, they come out at top front of tank just between tank and triple clamp. for those deeper river crossings (air box is sealed with silicone)
FUEL LINES - original from 2010
TAPS- original
EXTRA TAP for draining fuel- custom made mounted on left side, mainly for filling stove fuel bottle, or draining fuel for any other reason(€50)
DRIVE:
KARDAN- original, with a breather hose mounted onto the breather, ran to under the seat, for those river crossings (both breather hoses have a loop under the seat, so even if submerged, they're not gonna draw water in)
DRIVE AXLE, (or SHAFT)- tuning part from 2010, (BMW Boxer Toko-holland) simple construction and strong. (660euro)
>>>BRAKES:
front:
originally double disc changed to single, left disc mountings were cut off, instead of two small discs, one big disc, to save weight of course(new disc-2010)
caliper- original Brembo R100
caliper bracket- custom
brake pump- BMW* G650 X Challenge
brake leaver, clutch leaver, brake hose, clutch cable, throttle cable- X Challenge new in 2010.
rear:
original brake shoes- new- 2010
after market (tuning) brake cable holder fitted, changes position from bottom of the wheel to the middle, so it's not exposed and vulnerable in off road riding (Gletter 88260 Ratzenried)
>>>ELECTRICAL:
wiring- new(2011)
IGNITION- mounted onto the fork on the left, 5 position ignition, pos. 1,2- nothing, pos. 3,4- 'stealth mode' (ignition on, accessories on >clock, gps, el.sockets, led's, horn <, but no lights, not even brake light working), pos. 5- everything on. the 'Stealth Mode' was made to stay invisible whilst looking for a place to camp in the wild, in half dark, the only light that always stays on is the clock.
HORN (double high+low pitched sound)- Seger (2013)
BATTERY- Odyssey, gel, (2011), apparently the best for these bikes, it is supposed to recover after being completely drained to full capacity.
its thin, so it's mounted right behind air box, in the remaining space under the seat, where standard big battery normally is, there's a box, custom made, for spare parts, tools, or a few beers. i usually carry a 2 litre fuel canister, and spare parts and tools.
ALTERNATOR- 450watt BMW alternator,(2011), the strongest for this model (standard was only 240w)
VOLTAGE REGULATOR- custom made by an industrial electronics specialist in poland, (2012), charging from low revs, adjustable, can increase or decrease the voltage with a screwdriver, there's still the standard regulator mounted in original place, next to custom one, just in case, but not connected, the standard needs higher revs to start charging (€150)
CLOCK- Acewell ACE-2853, (€150),very small and lightweight, damaged.
all control lights still work, set of 6 led's, -2 flashers, high beam, charging, neutral, oil pressure.
NO GPS.(connection cable for Zumo 550, and a place to mount a RamMount still on the bike.
SWITCHES:
left switch- lightweight KTM switch, (flashers, main lights, horn, kill switch unused)
additional BMW switch on left: led's, hazards.
right switch: small BMW switch (ignition and kill switch)
2x 12v el. sockets, cables coming from the headlamp, connections under the handlebar, the actual sockets in the tank bag
relays, fuses, wires- most fitted inside the headlamp.
LIGHTS:
front:
headlamp- a BMW thing, not sure which model.
led's- VISION X, one spot light, one wide beam, both mounted on RAM Mounts, so can be easily changed from side to side depending on country ( ~€350)
flashers (indicators)- RIZOMA, small, lightweight, but very strong single led.
rear:
lamp- original with mudguard
flashers- same as front
SUSPENSION: -HyperPro, (Dutch susp. specialists)
front:
non adjustable, progressive sprigs. (~€150) (2010)
rear:
fully adjustable,
progressive spring(2011), gas/oil shock absorber(2010), two stage (high/low speed) damping adjustment(2011), one stage rebound(2010), hydraulic preload(height) adjustment(2010),* (~€1500)
the shock has a dirt protector on it, can be easily removed.
>>>ENGINE:
R80 from 1991 which had also 50 000km before rebuilt. the reason for changing the engine is torque. all the mechanical tuning done on the bike was to increase torque first and foremost. so to illustrate, with the tuning cylinders that we used, when used with R100 engine the power is increased more then torque, with R80 engine the torque is increased more then power. in case of somebody not understanding, the torque is the kick, or strength, or acceleration, the power is the maximum speed. the developer and manufacturer of the cylinders is Siebenrock, a german company making special tuning parts for old boxers.
engine number is not an issue, we don't use in europe, only the chassis number is found in the paperwork.
THE CYLINDER KIT :* the 1000cc power kit, Siebenrock, from 2010, (~€800), personally i wanted the big bore kit, which is a 1070cc, but i was advised -by different experienced bmw boxer mechanics/fanatics- that for big trips, the 1000cc is a safer bet, enough torque and power, better for fuel consumption, and most importantly more reliable in ways of strength of construction.
EXHAUST- Siebenrock SGS 2, made for this particular cylinder kit, 2010, (€1000)
CAMSHAFT- Siebenrock, asymetric 320,* increasing torque, 2010, (~€250)
TWINSPARK- originally in these bikes is a single spark plug system, so the cylinder heads were redone to fit second spark plug in both cylinders. done in 2010 by BMW boxer toko (holland)
there was something about some cylinder heads exploding when starting the bike after a short coffee brake, in hot places, in the old bmw boxers.
these were inspected on my bike, and are not of the exploding variety.
CHOKE: two small chokes fitted directly on the carbs, instead of mounting on the handlebar by means of cables and switch. -to simplify and save weight
CARBS: have safety wires installed, it sometimes happens when riding off road especially, that the locking mechanism of the carburetor float chamber gets tripped by the boot, and then the float chamber gets lost, finding it can be tricky in rough terrain. on my bike the float chamber is connected to the carb, so even if it comes off- it won't get lost.
GEARBOX: shorter 1st gear for more torque, longer 5th for more comfort on highways, the gearbox* breather has a breather hose running up to under seat, for those river crossings (both breather hoses have a loop under the seat, so even if submerged, they're not gonna draw water in)
CLUTCH- the whole clutch is new, original BMW from 2011, with tuning new ceramic clutch plate (~€400)
OIL SUMP- large sump to have enough oil cooling without an oil cooler.
SPARES:
spark plugs, wire connectors, glues, bits and bolts,
TOOLS:
2 lightweight aluminium tyre irons which convert into wrenches, basic tools for basic service and jobs. (snap on, blue something, knipex)
--------------------
>>>LUGGAGE SYSTEM(2010) :
MAIN : Steelpony.com.au (~€500 incl. shipping+taxes), lightweight, strong, waterproof.
FRONT SADDLEBAGS - mounted on the tank, with top connecting straps, and bottom straps to main frame, about 10 liters each
REAR SADDLEBAGS - mounted on rear seat with connecting straps, and bottom straps to BMW luggage (panier) racks, about 40 liters each if i remember correctly.
(these have a couple of places slightly damaged due to normal wear and tear, might leak but still functional)
TANK BAG: original BMW expandable with rain cover, from 2010.* about 24 liters max if i remember correctly. (~€200)
bottom part has a custom made alu frame inside, which makes the walls rigid, when tank bag not full. (~€30)
REAR SEAT BAG(2012) : Ortlieb Rack Pack 49liters.(~€65) (still air tight)
i also put a light backpack with tent inside on top of ortlieb.
so inside luggage space the way i use it is about 220 liters.
that, let me tell you, is way too much luggage, but still, my bike packed like a camel is still ok to ride, even off road, i mean the handling of this bike fully (over)packed is better then R1200GS without any luggage whatsoever!!
i speak from experience, R1200GS was the first bike i bought for this travelling, not only way too heavy, way too top heavy, but most of all - the electronics on new BMW's are unreliable.
and my bike has more then enough torque no probs.
apart from all of the above tuning work, all the parts that get used with time anywhere in the bike, like oil pump, bearings, and everything else was changed to new original BMW parts in 2010. bike was regularly serviced, by the book. 1000km, 10 000km, 20 000km, 30 000km service has been done. by the book. services were done by me, but with help from experienced BMW mechanics. oil filter and oil changed 1000 km ago.
bike is registered in poland to my name, as 1993 BMW R100R. have all documents with me. there's no engine number in the european documents, only chassis number.
in case of import taxes the value of the bike can be put as a ~€1000.
reason for sale -money.
prices i got off the top of my head, so please excuse if there are any mistakes. but specified brands, so they can be verified on websites.
in fact i might even wanna sell my riding suit (bmw), and camping gear.*
i'll be happy to send photos on request. right now the bike is covered with mud and dirt, but no worries, underneath it all is a good layer of WD40, thanx to which the bike has very little rust. i always kept it like that, washing it only for service work, or once a year, immediately after washing and drying- WD40 would go into action.
polish number (sms only!):
+48 505 61 22 33
my phones and not always switched on, or near me!
dex.
p.s.
The price to be paid is €5 000. Can accept other currencies like GBP, PLN, US$ .The bike is 3 years old from rebuilt, and has done 36 000km.
The cost of the project was 20 thousand euro, and that's with most of mechanical labour done at friend rates. 13,5 thousand euro went for all the special parts, 2,5 for the bike, 4 for labour- which is nothing considering the amount of work involved.
bike has a few bruises by now but nothing serious.
currently in south Lao.
bike was bought and rebuilt in 2010/2011 with true 50 000km on the clock, accident free.(€2500)
bought and rebuild by a bmw specialist, who worked 15 years in an authorised bmw service in holland, now he's HyperPro suspension specialist. always riding himself these particular bikes to this day- R80's and R100's. not only he knows these bikes through and through, but always has and still does love riding these bikes, as much as working on them. that is why i chose him as the man for the job.
so he bought the bike and rebuild it for me. i was a part of this process, even done some work myself, but he's the specialist. the point i'm trying to make, is that the rebuilt of the bike wasn't a business venture. it was not done for money. we didn't cut any corners. everything was done the best way possible. which is why the budget went from the initial €12 000, to €20 000, which is what the project ended up costing me. (mind you, the labour was done at a friend rate, most of the parts primo rate, so most of the money went for parts and materials).
the objectives were to make the bike faster, stronger, lighter, more reliable, and made for adventure riding around the globe.
and it does indeed have a lot more torque then standard R100R, and a little more power, i never measured exactly how much.
we took about 20kg off the bike, mostly from the top, which made the CG much lower, without jeopardizing the much needed GC. (CG=center of gravity, GC= ground clearance)
furthermore,
frames, racks, covers, and brackets were either just sandblasted, or blasted and powder coated, wheels were polished, and other parts were new. only cylinder heads look old, i cleaned them a little, but it was taking too long, so they could be cleaned better. same goes for the engine block, it was cleaned but not to perfection. front cover was blasted. cylinders new(power kit).
take a good look at pics from 2010.
these are mainly to show how much effort (and money) was put into rebuilding this bike.
CHASSIS:
original R100R- 1993.
>>>REAR:
WHEEL- original 17 inch spoked tubeless with side valve for easy access, ( also changed, the original wheels on the bike where sandblasted and looking really ugly, so after changing the front -for the sake of the size-, i decided to buy a good looking rear as well, €250)
tyre: Metzeler Tourance- NEW.
MUDGUARD- Acerbis, cut in a half and only rear part of it is mounted on the rear frame to make that line of the bike, there's another mudguard fitted under seat made of shoe sole material mounted on the frame, to protect seat and the rest from mud.
TOP CASE RACK -was cut off to save weight, (2kg), and not to put additional weight behind the rear axle, which affects the balancing off road. (the whole frame was powdercoated)
PANIER RACKS -original, (the lightweight version), so can fit original bmw seiten koffers.
two 'TOOL TUBES'- fitted on the inside of the panier racks, on both sides of the wheel, one holding stove fuel bottle 1liter, the other 1 liter oil bottle with custom made cap with hose attached for easy/clean filling (~€60)
>>>FRONT:
FORK- R100GS from (~1991)
WHEEL- R1150GS (19 inch spoked tubeless) -(€`250) ,
original was 18 inch, which is too small for off-road riding and impossible to get off-road tyres, i thought about putting on a 21inch, but then the steering on-road is not great, hence the 19inch- the Middle Way.
tyre: Metzeler Karoo 3- NEW.
MUDGUARD- R1200GS(~€100)
MUDGUARD BRACKET- strong custom made powder coated aluminium, 2010, (~€250)
HANDLEBAR- Rizoma from 2010.
HANDLEBAR BRACKET- Rizoma(2010)
HANDLEBAR RISERS(2012)- a set of rigid bmw risers(€50) + a set of pivoting SW Motech risers from 2012 ( €100)
GRIPS- non heated original BMW R100
Cruise Control- BMW R1200GS (2010)
Hand Guards-* BMW F800GS twin (2010), ( ~€120), (three stage : metal bars+plastic guards+wind flaps)
MIRRORS- after market* light off road fitted on RAM Mounts
>>>CENTER:
CYLINDER LUGGAGE RACKS(2011) : custom made alu tube powder coated mounted on the main frame (€500)
CENTER STAND- original
SIDE STAND- stainless steel -tuning (~€100)
PEGS:
driver- PIVOT PEGZ (~€150)*
passenger- small,lightweight alu from some sports bike, customised, (~€100)
OIL SUMP PROTECTION- custom made powder coated, 2010, (~€250)
ENGINE PROTECTION- no need for that, bike lands on valve covers first, and the square type covers we used are very strong, both have scratches on them, i had a few falls, but nothing too serious.
>>>TOP:
SEAT:
original BMW R100R -KAHEDO remade in 2010 (€250), better comfort for those lonely highways, anti-slip cover.
FUEL:
TANK - original 22 liter, anti slip leather pads on sides custom made
tank was cleaned inside, and treated with the anti-rust paint (2010)
the tank has some damage to paintwork, and a couple of dents. with this kind of use it's unavoidable.
under the tank there's two hoses, snorkels, which are disconnected, but if need be they can be put on the air box inlets, they come out at top front of tank just between tank and triple clamp. for those deeper river crossings (air box is sealed with silicone)
FUEL LINES - original from 2010
TAPS- original
EXTRA TAP for draining fuel- custom made mounted on left side, mainly for filling stove fuel bottle, or draining fuel for any other reason(€50)
DRIVE:
KARDAN- original, with a breather hose mounted onto the breather, ran to under the seat, for those river crossings (both breather hoses have a loop under the seat, so even if submerged, they're not gonna draw water in)
DRIVE AXLE, (or SHAFT)- tuning part from 2010, (BMW Boxer Toko-holland) simple construction and strong. (660euro)
>>>BRAKES:
front:
originally double disc changed to single, left disc mountings were cut off, instead of two small discs, one big disc, to save weight of course(new disc-2010)
caliper- original Brembo R100
caliper bracket- custom
brake pump- BMW* G650 X Challenge
brake leaver, clutch leaver, brake hose, clutch cable, throttle cable- X Challenge new in 2010.
rear:
original brake shoes- new- 2010
after market (tuning) brake cable holder fitted, changes position from bottom of the wheel to the middle, so it's not exposed and vulnerable in off road riding (Gletter 88260 Ratzenried)
>>>ELECTRICAL:
wiring- new(2011)
IGNITION- mounted onto the fork on the left, 5 position ignition, pos. 1,2- nothing, pos. 3,4- 'stealth mode' (ignition on, accessories on >clock, gps, el.sockets, led's, horn <, but no lights, not even brake light working), pos. 5- everything on. the 'Stealth Mode' was made to stay invisible whilst looking for a place to camp in the wild, in half dark, the only light that always stays on is the clock.
HORN (double high+low pitched sound)- Seger (2013)
BATTERY- Odyssey, gel, (2011), apparently the best for these bikes, it is supposed to recover after being completely drained to full capacity.
its thin, so it's mounted right behind air box, in the remaining space under the seat, where standard big battery normally is, there's a box, custom made, for spare parts, tools, or a few beers. i usually carry a 2 litre fuel canister, and spare parts and tools.
ALTERNATOR- 450watt BMW alternator,(2011), the strongest for this model (standard was only 240w)
VOLTAGE REGULATOR- custom made by an industrial electronics specialist in poland, (2012), charging from low revs, adjustable, can increase or decrease the voltage with a screwdriver, there's still the standard regulator mounted in original place, next to custom one, just in case, but not connected, the standard needs higher revs to start charging (€150)
CLOCK- Acewell ACE-2853, (€150),very small and lightweight, damaged.
all control lights still work, set of 6 led's, -2 flashers, high beam, charging, neutral, oil pressure.
NO GPS.(connection cable for Zumo 550, and a place to mount a RamMount still on the bike.
SWITCHES:
left switch- lightweight KTM switch, (flashers, main lights, horn, kill switch unused)
additional BMW switch on left: led's, hazards.
right switch: small BMW switch (ignition and kill switch)
2x 12v el. sockets, cables coming from the headlamp, connections under the handlebar, the actual sockets in the tank bag
relays, fuses, wires- most fitted inside the headlamp.
LIGHTS:
front:
headlamp- a BMW thing, not sure which model.
led's- VISION X, one spot light, one wide beam, both mounted on RAM Mounts, so can be easily changed from side to side depending on country ( ~€350)
flashers (indicators)- RIZOMA, small, lightweight, but very strong single led.
rear:
lamp- original with mudguard
flashers- same as front
SUSPENSION: -HyperPro, (Dutch susp. specialists)
front:
non adjustable, progressive sprigs. (~€150) (2010)
rear:
fully adjustable,
progressive spring(2011), gas/oil shock absorber(2010), two stage (high/low speed) damping adjustment(2011), one stage rebound(2010), hydraulic preload(height) adjustment(2010),* (~€1500)
the shock has a dirt protector on it, can be easily removed.
>>>ENGINE:
R80 from 1991 which had also 50 000km before rebuilt. the reason for changing the engine is torque. all the mechanical tuning done on the bike was to increase torque first and foremost. so to illustrate, with the tuning cylinders that we used, when used with R100 engine the power is increased more then torque, with R80 engine the torque is increased more then power. in case of somebody not understanding, the torque is the kick, or strength, or acceleration, the power is the maximum speed. the developer and manufacturer of the cylinders is Siebenrock, a german company making special tuning parts for old boxers.
engine number is not an issue, we don't use in europe, only the chassis number is found in the paperwork.
THE CYLINDER KIT :* the 1000cc power kit, Siebenrock, from 2010, (~€800), personally i wanted the big bore kit, which is a 1070cc, but i was advised -by different experienced bmw boxer mechanics/fanatics- that for big trips, the 1000cc is a safer bet, enough torque and power, better for fuel consumption, and most importantly more reliable in ways of strength of construction.
EXHAUST- Siebenrock SGS 2, made for this particular cylinder kit, 2010, (€1000)
CAMSHAFT- Siebenrock, asymetric 320,* increasing torque, 2010, (~€250)
TWINSPARK- originally in these bikes is a single spark plug system, so the cylinder heads were redone to fit second spark plug in both cylinders. done in 2010 by BMW boxer toko (holland)
there was something about some cylinder heads exploding when starting the bike after a short coffee brake, in hot places, in the old bmw boxers.
these were inspected on my bike, and are not of the exploding variety.
CHOKE: two small chokes fitted directly on the carbs, instead of mounting on the handlebar by means of cables and switch. -to simplify and save weight
CARBS: have safety wires installed, it sometimes happens when riding off road especially, that the locking mechanism of the carburetor float chamber gets tripped by the boot, and then the float chamber gets lost, finding it can be tricky in rough terrain. on my bike the float chamber is connected to the carb, so even if it comes off- it won't get lost.
GEARBOX: shorter 1st gear for more torque, longer 5th for more comfort on highways, the gearbox* breather has a breather hose running up to under seat, for those river crossings (both breather hoses have a loop under the seat, so even if submerged, they're not gonna draw water in)
CLUTCH- the whole clutch is new, original BMW from 2011, with tuning new ceramic clutch plate (~€400)
OIL SUMP- large sump to have enough oil cooling without an oil cooler.
SPARES:
spark plugs, wire connectors, glues, bits and bolts,
TOOLS:
2 lightweight aluminium tyre irons which convert into wrenches, basic tools for basic service and jobs. (snap on, blue something, knipex)
--------------------
>>>LUGGAGE SYSTEM(2010) :
MAIN : Steelpony.com.au (~€500 incl. shipping+taxes), lightweight, strong, waterproof.
FRONT SADDLEBAGS - mounted on the tank, with top connecting straps, and bottom straps to main frame, about 10 liters each
REAR SADDLEBAGS - mounted on rear seat with connecting straps, and bottom straps to BMW luggage (panier) racks, about 40 liters each if i remember correctly.
(these have a couple of places slightly damaged due to normal wear and tear, might leak but still functional)
TANK BAG: original BMW expandable with rain cover, from 2010.* about 24 liters max if i remember correctly. (~€200)
bottom part has a custom made alu frame inside, which makes the walls rigid, when tank bag not full. (~€30)
REAR SEAT BAG(2012) : Ortlieb Rack Pack 49liters.(~€65) (still air tight)
i also put a light backpack with tent inside on top of ortlieb.
so inside luggage space the way i use it is about 220 liters.
that, let me tell you, is way too much luggage, but still, my bike packed like a camel is still ok to ride, even off road, i mean the handling of this bike fully (over)packed is better then R1200GS without any luggage whatsoever!!
i speak from experience, R1200GS was the first bike i bought for this travelling, not only way too heavy, way too top heavy, but most of all - the electronics on new BMW's are unreliable.
and my bike has more then enough torque no probs.
apart from all of the above tuning work, all the parts that get used with time anywhere in the bike, like oil pump, bearings, and everything else was changed to new original BMW parts in 2010. bike was regularly serviced, by the book. 1000km, 10 000km, 20 000km, 30 000km service has been done. by the book. services were done by me, but with help from experienced BMW mechanics. oil filter and oil changed 1000 km ago.
bike is registered in poland to my name, as 1993 BMW R100R. have all documents with me. there's no engine number in the european documents, only chassis number.
in case of import taxes the value of the bike can be put as a ~€1000.
reason for sale -money.
prices i got off the top of my head, so please excuse if there are any mistakes. but specified brands, so they can be verified on websites.
in fact i might even wanna sell my riding suit (bmw), and camping gear.*
i'll be happy to send photos on request. right now the bike is covered with mud and dirt, but no worries, underneath it all is a good layer of WD40, thanx to which the bike has very little rust. i always kept it like that, washing it only for service work, or once a year, immediately after washing and drying- WD40 would go into action.
polish number (sms only!):
+48 505 61 22 33
my phones and not always switched on, or near me!
dex.
p.s.
The price to be paid is €5 000. Can accept other currencies like GBP, PLN, US$ .The bike is 3 years old from rebuilt, and has done 36 000km.
The cost of the project was 20 thousand euro, and that's with most of mechanical labour done at friend rates. 13,5 thousand euro went for all the special parts, 2,5 for the bike, 4 for labour- which is nothing considering the amount of work involved.
bike has a few bruises by now but nothing serious.
