Lone Rider
Blokes Who Can
Black and White in Chiangrai
Over the years I have been several times to the "White Temple also known as Wat Rong Khun but never made it to the "Black House" or Ban Dam also in Chiangrai. In a way it is difficult not to compare the Black House with the White Temple as both are creations of National Artists- Thawan Duchanee with his Black House and Chalermchai Kositpipat with his White Temple. At first they seem like exact opposites – the White Temple is south of Chiang Rai, a gleaming white vision of heaven, and a popular tourist attraction. The Black House is north of the city, dark and mysterious and is far less well known. Both artists are natives of Chiangrai and both projects are ongoing and probably will never to be really finished and both are unique creations.
You can’t help but compare the Black House (Baan Dam in Thai) to the White Temple. At first they seem like exact opposites – the White Temple is south of Chiang Rai, a gleaming white vision of heaven, and a popular tourist attraction. The Black House is north of the city, dark and full of death, and is far less well known. But both were created by Chiang Rai natives, both artists with ambitious visions. The White Temple is Chalermchai Kositpipat's masterpiece, and the Black House is the brainchild of Thawan Duchanee – both projects are ongoing and will take decades of work before the artists are satisfied they are complete. Both are unique creations unlike anything else Ive seen.
The master himself - Thawan Duchanee
The "Black House" is a bit difficult to find as it is located off the main highway and there is no sign at the turn but Ban Dam is located at N19.99194 E99.86053 and the turnoff from Highway 1 is at N19.99357 E99.86433 - see also the map:www.thawan-duchanee.com
As you arrive at the site, the first thing you see is the huge Lanna-style building made out of dark wood with a steeply pitched, multi-tiered roof. Although it resembles a temple it is not a religious building at all. Inside you’ll find several long dark wooden tables covered with snake and crocodile skins while other animal skins are hanging from beams.
Buffalo horns, animal bones and Japanese style rock gardens are also well represented on and in between the buildings
Unfortunately or fortunately in case you are not into these kind of things, most of the buildings are locked but, in case you would want to have a look in them, you need to make an appointment. Below are just some of the pictures of the buildings, their surroundings, etc.
