"Ban Khwan Opium Battle", Kings Roman Casino and Ban Mom

Lone Rider

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A few weeks ago I had some discussions with Rod Page about the "Opium Battle of Ban Khwan" which took place in 1967 in Laos. In case you are interested in this part of the Lao history, you can find loads of info on Google like for instance the following sites

The CIA in Northwest Laos: Prelude to the 1967 Opium War - http://www.drugtext.org/library/books/McCoy/book/57.htm
Battle at Ban Khwan: The Challenge of Khun Sa - http://hlaoo1980.blogspot.com/2011/04/1967-opium-war-in-golden-triangle-3.html
Gen. Ouane Rattikone: Winner Takes Something - http://www.akha.org/content/drugwar/mccoy/63.htm

On my recent mapping update trip I was in the neighborhood to see if I could find anything in connection with the battle which took place close to a sawmill and at the same time see what is happening at the Kings Roman casino and road construction activities in the area. The maps below show where the battle took place and the general location of the area.

BanMomandKingsRoman.jpg
BanKhoanKhwan.jpg

BattleofBanKhwan.jpg


I knew there was a sawmill in the area but after looking at the general area as well as reading up on the history it looks like that this particular sawmill is to far south to have played a role in the battle. The people who were around were quite evasive when I asked things about the sawmill and how long as it had been there and I did mot get any further than "The sawmill may have been here longer than 10 years".

SAWMILL1.jpg

SAWMILL2.jpg

LOOKINGATTHESAWMILLFROMDONXAOISLAND.jpg

The sawmill is located close to Don Xao island and south of the Kings Roman Casino while, according to the maps the sawmill most likely would be north of here

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CASINO.jpg

The new crown on the casino

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The Kapok Garden Hotel - a bit further on are the Platinum Hotel and the Mareuy Hotel

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Besides the casino there are also plenty other entertainment options

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Staff housing for the Casino

NewHousingProject.jpg

New Housing project being constructed at the Kings Roman area which leased the area from the Lao Government for 99 years.

Security and Police here are Chinese although I saw that the Chinese Police car had now Lao Red number plates (used by the Lao police and army).

NoNumberplateshere.jpg

Most of the cars are running around without number plates

Limo.jpg

ReadyforPlanes.jpg

Transport can be provided for valued customers and this may not be limited to ground transportation but may include air transport in the future as an airstrip has been constructed.

ChineseFuel.jpg

Chinese petrol filling station

CustomsandImmigrationLaosatKingsRoman.jpg

The Lao immigration is housed in a building of the Kings Roman Group

Panorama.jpg

Picture taken from the front of the Lao Immigration - from the history and the maps of the "Battle of Ban Khwan" the sawmill would have been a few hundred meters to the left but nothing remained for as far as I could find out.

As the road on the east side of the Kings Roman area is now paved, I went north to see how far it went. Ended up in Ban Mom (Mueang Mom) which is an international border crossing between Laos and Myanmar

BanMomontheMekong.jpg


OntheroadtoBanMoma.jpg

The roads are huge for this area

EndofthenewroadandcontinuingasunpavedandtrailalongtheMekongtoBanXiangdao.jpg

At the end of the new road, it continues as an unpaved road and later becomes a trail. If you continue along the Mekong you will end up at Ban Xiangdao

FerryrampontheLaoside.jpg

InternationalBorderCrossingBanMomLaostoMyanmar.jpg

TheMyanmarsideismuchmorebusythantheLaoside.jpg

The Immigration and Customs building and the Ferry ramp to cross to Pung (Vangpung) in Myanmar. On the Lao side there was nothing going contrary to the Myanmar side where it seemed to be busy.

On the other side of the Mekong the Shan are in charge and the Shan state seems to operate as a "state with a state" with their own army, own flag, etc.

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Exporting logs to China ?

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Wat and Stupas in Vangpung
 
Now what is that stretched Mercedes doing there? (VIP Chinese Guests from the airport must be the reason?)


Interesting how recent this was thanks for the story LR.
 
Nice report, though I highly doubt Ban Mom has ever been a legitimate international crossing to Myanmar. I've certainly never heard of anyone crossing there, or even inquiring about it. Once the 1st ever Lao-Myanmar friendship bridge opens this May, that will change. Although I'm currently not sure if the Lao site of the bridge is in Ban Mom or further up the river in Xieng Kok. However, according to Burmese news sources, the Burmese side is still in Tachilek district, though I'm not sure how big Tachilek is and whether it extends all the way from opposite Mae Sai (the site of Tachilek city) to the Mekong river, but presumably it does.
 
Nice report, though I highly doubt Ban Mom has ever been a legitimate international crossing to Myanmar. I've certainly never heard of anyone crossing there, or even inquiring about it. Once the 1st ever Lao-Myanmar friendship bridge opens this May, that will change. Although I'm currently not sure if the Lao site of the bridge is in Ban Mom or further up the river in Xieng Kok. However, according to Burmese news sources, the Burmese side is still in Tachilek district, though I'm not sure how big Tachilek is and whether it extends all the way from opposite Mae Sai (the site of Tachilek city) to the Mekong river, but presumably it does.

You may well be right with regard to that the Ban Mom border crossing is not international as the Wikitravel site for laos (Laos travel guide - Wikitravel) states also that "Foreigners cannot legally cross the Laos/Myanmar border".

However, the website of the Department of Tourism Marketing, Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism (MICT) at International Checkpoints indicates that Ban Mom is an International Border Crossing (No Visa-on-Arrival). But they also have this disclaimer on their site: MICT provides the information, documents, maps and materials (together as “contents”) in this website solely as a resource for its users without any form of assurance. The contents provided in this website are "as is" without any warranty though MICT tries to provide reliable contents.

The Laos-Myanmar bridge is at N20.87323 E100.54024 (on the Lao side) and is located west of Xiengkok near Ban Houa Khoum (Laos) and Seng / Kenglap in Myanmar

The bridge on 12 November 2014 (photo copyright Ken Vichitvongsa)
Laos Myanmar Bridge November 2014.jpg

and the bridge late January 2015 (photo copyright Bob Kelly)
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We were here a few months ago and saw the tigers and bears... shocking that they are there for restaurant food in Laos





High-end Laos resort serves up illegal wildlife for Chinese tourists | Jeremy Hance | Environment | The Guardian





High-end Laos resort serves up illegal wildlife for Chinese tourists
Shocking undercover investigation finds restaurants offering live bear cubs ‘to eat on request’ washed down with tiger bone wine in the ‘lawless playground’ of Laos’ Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone


A big cat skeleton – allegedly a tiger – in an aquarium of tiger bone wine. Photograph: EIA
Jeremy Hance
Thursday 19 March 2015 10.30 EDT Last modified on Thursday 19 March 2015 16.01 EDT

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American social psychologist, Paul Piff, has built a career on studying how wealth and privilege affects moral behaviour. Through a wide variety of methods – including rigged Monopoly games and monitoring luxury car drivers – Piff has produced an intriguing, though controversial, collection of evidence that wealth and status makes a person more likely to act badly.
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Tiger meat and bear paws on menu for Chinese tourists in Laos, says report
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The rich act more selfishly, break more rules, feel more entitled, and display less empathy and compassion, according to Piff and his colleague’s findings. Most of his research has occurred near his place of employment, the University of California, Berkley, but Piff may want to consider conducting his next experiment in Laos’ Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone.
Lying on the banks of the Mekong River, the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone is a large resort city catering especially to Chinese tourists and run by the Hong Kong-based Kings Romans Group. The luxury casino provides the main draw, as gambling is illegal in China; but the resort also includes a shooting range, more than 70 shops and restaurants, gardens, spas, and a bustling trade in endangered species’ parts, at least according to a new report by the Environment Investigation Agency (EIA) titled Sin City.
At another restaurant, Fantasy Garrett, one can order something dubbed “sauté tiger meat.”
The report calls the zone a “lawless playground” with “not even a pretence of enforcement”. Indeed, even in a region of the world where wildlife trafficking is rampant and consumption of endangered species common, the report’s findings are shocking.
Eat a bear, drink a tiger
At the God of Fortune restaurant, for example, undercover investigators viewed a live, caged bear cub and python – both of which were “available to eat on request,” according to the report. The menu also openly included such fare as bear paw, monitor lizards, pangolins, geckos, and a variety of snakes and turtles. And one could wash all that down with a jar of purported tiger bone wine.

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Caged bears in the the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, purportedly for eating. Photograph: EIA
At another restaurant, Fantasy Garrett, one can order something dubbed “sauté tiger meat”. The restaurant also displayed a large aquarium, but not filled with fish. Inside, was a fully mounted tiger skeleton with a sign advertising the restaurant’s tiger wine, where crushed tiger bones are added or steeped in rice wine.
In the case of the tigers, this captive population represents a larger population than all of Laos’ wild tigers
One could be sceptical, as tiger wine is sometimes faked. But the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone actually has the tigers to back up their claims of being able to consume and drink the great cats. Undercover investigators with the EIA and the Education for Nature Vietnam (ENV), visited a tiger and bear farm inside the zone housing a total of 38 Asiatic bears – for eating – and 35 tigers. In the case of the tigers, this captive population – destined to be killed, defleshed, and mixed with rice wine – represents a larger population than all of Laos’ wild tigers. The country is thought to be home to only a single population, no larger than 20 mature individuals.
The tiger-bear farm also plans to significantly expand operations.
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“The keeper told investigators the plan is to acquire a total of 50 [female tigers] for breeding, with the aim of producing 500 tigers within three years and up to 1,000 tigers in the long term,” reads the report.
Across the zone’s shops, investigators found stuffed tigers and tiger skins, rhino horn shavings, beads and carvings from the helmeted hornbill, and a single leopard skin.
Even the casino brandishes wildlife products, namely ivory. Investigators found “carved whole tusks, bangles, beaded bracelets, pendants and other trinkets” openly-displayed where gamblers hoped for luck.
Echoing Piff’s research, Debbie Banks, the Head of the EIA’s Tiger Campaign, said “wealth and status are definitely the drivers of demand”.
Experts are increasingly calling attention to the role of status in the illegal wildlife trade in this part of the world. As China – and much of East Asia – has experienced a runaway economic boom, snorting powdered rhino horn, displaying tiger skins, or purchasing ivory has become a way to flex one’s power and wealth.
“Stuffed tigers, tiger skins, carved ivory and helmeted hornbill casques are luxury products, purchased for vanity and increasingly as assets, just like gold or jade. The tiger bone wine that is openly for sale is marketed to men as a ‘strengthening tonic,’” Banks said, adding that “the open trade makes it feel like an illegal wildlife supermarket, where you can just browse, pick and choose without any fear of enforcement.”
Golden Triangle: Drugs to wildlife trafficking
The Golden Triangle is a region in Southeast Asia criss-crossing three countries (Laos, Burma, and Thailand) and known for its massive opium and heroin production with a number of feuding drug lords to go with it. But the region has also become a tourist draw.
Signs are in Mandarin, yuan is the main currency, and most workers are Chinese. The place even runs on Beijing time.
To take advantage of the region’s growing popularity, in 2007 Kings Romans Group entered into a 99-year lease for 10,000 hectares in the region. The company was granted 3,000 of these hectares as a duty-free zone, dubbed the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone.
“The stated aim of the agreement is to attract foreign investment in trade and tourism to drive local economic growth and alleviate poverty,” reads the EIA report.
Just a two-hour drive from China, tourists don’t have to feel like they’ve left home. Signs are in Mandarin, yuan is the main currency, and most workers are Chinese, according to the EIA. The place even runs on Beijing time.
The tax-free zone has also enjoyed political patronage from Laos. Both the president and prime minister of Laos have visited along with the local governor.
“The Chinese businesses and consumers are exploiting weak enforcement in Laos, but the Laos government can’t pretend they are ignorant of what is going on,” said Banks.
And the EIA report that one of the major reasons why this border town has become a wildlife trafficking haven is Laos’ lax laws – and little enforcement even for what is on the books.
Legal confusion
Laos’ 2007 Wildlife and Aquatic Law prohibits the use of some animals, such as tigers, elephants, rhinos, and bears. However, there is a loophole: one can use these animals so long as it has government permission. Furthermore, captive bred animals can be traded so long as they are at least second generation. But this requires registration with Laos’ government, something that the undercover investigators found was lacking in some of the zone.
The 2007 wildlife law, though, also bars government employees from either running a wildlife business or taking a share from one. This could be problematic, given that the government of Laos is also said to have a 20% financial stake in the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, further entangling domestic politicians with the resort.

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Kings Roman Casino, the top draw to the special zone. Photograph: EIA
But Laos has international obligations as well. The country has been a signatory of Cites since 2004, making it illegal to export or import wild specimens (or their parts) of many of the species found in the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone.
“Most of the wildlife for sale at the [Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone] has been obtained in contravention of Cites,” argues the EIA report.
Banks said that “on paper, Laos authorities could walk into the [Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone], seize, arrest, prosecute and launch investigations into the criminals controlling the trade.”
But no one is expecting a crackdown anytime soon.
“The track record of investigators and prosecutors elsewhere in the country to date suggests that is unlikely at the best of times, and would be a real challenge given the [political] connection,” noted Banks.
In order for the situation to change, Banks said action has to “come from the top”. She recommended “a clear message and direction from the prime minister to establish a special task force of investigators and prosecutors dedicated to wildlife crime. The law must also be strengthened, including revisions to end the breeding of tigers and trade in farmed tiger parts and products.”

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Stuffed tigers for sale at the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. Photograph: EIA
But, Laos is not the only country on the hook, according to the report. China also needs to act, given that the special economic zone is run by a Chinese company, visited by Chinese tourists, and made to resemble China as much as possible. And the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone is not an aberration. There are also a number of other border towns with similar wildlife markets, also seemingly meant for wealthy, Chinese tourists.

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Menu at a restaurant in the special zone. Photograph: EIA
“There needs to be greater investment [by China] in intelligence-led enforcement to pursue the Chinese businesses and individuals who are running operations at the [Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone]... These shouldn’t be periodic operations that are co-ordinated once a year, but full-time, multi-agency operations,” said Banks. “If any country can put the resources into these specialised investigations, it is China.”
The profile of illegal wildlife trafficking has risen in the media and international politics in recent years, especially given the worsening poaching crisis of elephants and rhinos in Africa. The US government has issued new regulations on wildlife crime and launched new partnerships to combat the epidemic abroad, including funding. In the UK, Prince William has been passionately vocal on the subject, and last year, London hosted the first ever high-level meeting on wildlife trafficking. Finally, Interpol, the world’s police organisation, has launched an initiative to combat wildlife crime.
Yet, Banks, said the actions by the international community still amount to “tip-toeing around.”
“International organised wildlife crime is not a new or emerging threat, the role of serious and organised criminal networks controlling illegal wildlife trade has been well documented for over 15 years,” said Banks, who argued that “it’s time to ramp up the pressure for faster action and the international community should not shy away from calling for trade suspensions under Cites.”
Moral conundrums
But even if governments step up the fight against wildlife trafficking, there is still the problem of seemingly insatiable demand in the region. A demand so great that today China has more tigers in captive farms – bred solely for killing – than there are wild tigers on the planet: around 5,000 versus 3,200.

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Live pangolin outside a restaurant in the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. All four species found in Asia are listed as either endangered or critically endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Photograph: EIA
“Promises to end illegal tiger trade are empty unless the law and policy in China is changed to end domestic trade in all tiger parts and products, and destroy stockpiles of tiger parts, including captive bred tiger parts,” said Banks, who argues that this trade is only fuelling poaching of wild tigers and other big cats as substitutes.
But it’s hardly just tigers. Experts estimate that somewhere between 22,000-35,000 elephants were slaughtered annually for their tusks in Africa in the last few years. Also, four of the world’s six rhino species are on the precipice of extinction, pushed, in part, by current or historic demand for their horn.
Ecosystems in Asia are literally being emptied of turtles, snakes, frogs, mammals, and even birds to feed demand
Lesser-known species, such as pangolins are vanishing from forests across Asia at a rate that eclipses big, charismatic animals. Indeed, ecosystems in Asia are literally being emptied of turtles, snakes, frogs, mammals, and even birds to feed demand for luxury foods, traditional medicine, and the newest pet craze, creating what’s been dubbed “empty forests” syndrome.
While poor people certainly do consume forest animals too – especially in forest-dependent communities – many of those in Asia’s black markets are actually going to rising middle and upper classes, ie those who can afford such seeming luxury.
“What we’ve been finding across dozens of studies and thousands of participants across [the US] is that as a person’s levels of wealth increase, their feelings of compassion and empathy go down, and their feelings of entitlement, of deservingness, and their ideology of self-interest increases,” said Piff in a 2013 TED Talk. “In surveys, we found that it’s actually wealthier individuals who are more likely to moralise greed being good, and that the pursuit of self-interest is favourable and moral.”

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A caged tiger bred for slaughter in the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. Photograph: EIA
Piff has not studied whether wealth decreases compassion for non-humans, though it’s not a big stretch to assume it would. On the bright side, Piff has also found that change is possible and such behaviours are never fixed.
“In fact, we’ve been finding in our own laboratory research that small psychological interventions, small changes to people’s values, small nudges in certain directions, can restore levels of egalitarianism and empathy,” he said.
A number of campaigns are now targeting people across East Asia with those psychological nudges through advertisements and celebrities. They hope to undercut the social prestige of displaying a tiger skin or eating bear paw or ordering pangolin soup. While social change is usually not rapid, it must come fast if it’s to be in time to save Asia’s vanishing natural heritage.
 
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