Lone Rider
Blokes Who Can
Northern Loop via Phayao
Off again on one of my infrequent day trips - this time an anti-clock wise loop to the north via Muang Pan, Phayao, Phan, Mae Suay and back to Chiangmai. Roads taken: 1317, 4074, 1252, 1287, 1035, 3014, 120, 1, 1127, 1, 2009, 2029, 3008, 118 Total distance 550 Km.
The route taken
An early morning start and although the weather did not look very promising, during the day the sun came even out and only during the last 50 kilometer or so there was some rain. First stop at the Mae Kamphong waterfall (N18.86254 E99.35589) on Rd 4074 which meanders through the forests to Chea Hom with steep inclines.
Mea Kamphong Waterfall
Road 4074 has several of these stream crossings - watch out when you go through them as some of them have quite a bit of mud on top of the concrete used to protect the road
Small landslide along the road which had been partly cleared up and the elevation profile of part of Rd 4074 showing that over a 3 km distance the rise in altitude is over 460 meter.
Just before the Chea Hom national Park checkpoint there is a viewpoint (N18.85553 E99.36626) but there was not much to see today as early in the morning the clouds were still hanging low.
Once on Rd 1252 it was eastwards to link with the Lampang to Wang Nue road but along the way I saw a small bridge leading to Wat Phratat Doi Sang (N18.77765 E99.53519). Had seen this temple and the bridge a few times before but never had a look at the temple itself nor its grounds.
The Buddha statues - guess that while constructing the stairs which were covered with shells they ran out of shells so they used other stuff to finalize the stairs.
While looking at the map to see what would be along my route I noticed the Mae Cho and Tad Moei waterfall. As it was not very far from my intended route along Rd 1035 I had a quick look but at the spot where they were supposed to be (N18.86318 E99.70256) I only found a small stream with water falling some 30 centimeters over the rocks so not really what I had expected.
However, along the road to get there I could not fail to see the huge pillars used to construct houses, sheds and so on. The use of these seems to be a ploy to circumvent forestry laws which forbid the cutting of logs for sale (new wood) but not the sale of wood from demolished houses which is considered to be "used/old wood".
Some nice well sized house pillars
After the less than stellar waterfalls I was in need of some more waterfalls but it was not my day. The next one I visited - the Than Thong Waterfall at N19.06986 E99.72887- was OK but the one I really had come to see - the Champhatong waterfall (N19.21672 E99.73372) in the Doi Luang National Park west of Phayao was off-limit as visiting the falls was considered to be too dangerous in the rainy season.
Than Thong Waterfall along Rd 120
Champhatong Waterfall in Doi Luang National Park
Champhatong Waterfall - The waterfall is said to have five levels, though it may be difficult to get to the top if the water gets very high or the path too treacherous during rainy season. From the top level a trail leads up to the summit of the peak that the waterfall originates from.
Note to self - Next time try to visit the Pu Khaeng Waterfall (N19.46301 E99.65866) in the same Doi Luang National Park which seems to be also very nice with a series of seven big cascades about 1km long over limestone. A stepped trail climbs right by the steeply tumbling river, and there are numerous pools to swim in.
Along the way I had a quick look at the the Captain Jensen Memorial (N19.08510 E99.92048) on Highway 1 just south of Phayao
For those of you who don't know about the Foreign Cemetary in Chiangmai have a look here for some pictures and background information: Chiang Mai Photos. The Foreigner's Cemetery - TeakDoor.com - The Thailand Forum Just as an aside, I just noticed that the grave of Leo, an old friend whom I met during the first time I lived in Chiangmai (1976-1978), is shown also. It was during his housewarming party in 1976 that I ate for the very first time raw laab (raw meat with spices) which I had vowed never to eat. Unfortunatey/Fortunately it was too dark to see what I was eating and to be honest I liked and still like it.
Captain Jensen Memorial along Rd 1 south of Phayao and his burial place at the Chiangmai Foreign Cemetary (N18.77450 E99.00812)
Wat Li (N19.16622 E99.91589) was next on my list of things I wanted to see. This is an ancient temple constructed in 1495 to be presented to Phrachao Yot Chiang Rai, the king of Chiang Mai Town. Li is its original name. It is an ancient northern Thai dialect, meaning Kat or Talat or market. Therefore, it means a temple in the area of the market community. Within the compound of the temple, there are important ancient remains like Phrathat Wat Li, and many artefacts of the Phayao Kingdom, especially the sandstone Buddha images.
Phratat Li and some nice flowers growing nearby
One of the temple buildings is being renovated and the doors and window blinds whic have been removed are being restored as well
Along the way to my final stop I had a quick look at the Pha Kong Cave (N19.51918 E99.65543) but I found that the place was a gathering spot for all the teenagers living in the neighbourhood with loud motorbikes and music and I decided to give it a miss.
While on my way to my final stop for the day I made a quick visit to the Huai Sai Khao Hot Spring (N19.63618 E99.74362) near Muang Phan along Rd 1 . In the front a tub with HOT water, on the right the WARM water and in the background LUKE-WARM water. Unfortunately, the whole hot spring area is run-down and it looks like that very few people visit the place
Something I had been looking forward to all day
- Blueberry Cheese Cake with Hot Coffee at Charin (N19.69608 E99.58124)
Off again on one of my infrequent day trips - this time an anti-clock wise loop to the north via Muang Pan, Phayao, Phan, Mae Suay and back to Chiangmai. Roads taken: 1317, 4074, 1252, 1287, 1035, 3014, 120, 1, 1127, 1, 2009, 2029, 3008, 118 Total distance 550 Km.
The route taken
An early morning start and although the weather did not look very promising, during the day the sun came even out and only during the last 50 kilometer or so there was some rain. First stop at the Mae Kamphong waterfall (N18.86254 E99.35589) on Rd 4074 which meanders through the forests to Chea Hom with steep inclines.
Mea Kamphong Waterfall
Road 4074 has several of these stream crossings - watch out when you go through them as some of them have quite a bit of mud on top of the concrete used to protect the road
Small landslide along the road which had been partly cleared up and the elevation profile of part of Rd 4074 showing that over a 3 km distance the rise in altitude is over 460 meter.
Just before the Chea Hom national Park checkpoint there is a viewpoint (N18.85553 E99.36626) but there was not much to see today as early in the morning the clouds were still hanging low.
Once on Rd 1252 it was eastwards to link with the Lampang to Wang Nue road but along the way I saw a small bridge leading to Wat Phratat Doi Sang (N18.77765 E99.53519). Had seen this temple and the bridge a few times before but never had a look at the temple itself nor its grounds.
The Buddha statues - guess that while constructing the stairs which were covered with shells they ran out of shells so they used other stuff to finalize the stairs.
While looking at the map to see what would be along my route I noticed the Mae Cho and Tad Moei waterfall. As it was not very far from my intended route along Rd 1035 I had a quick look but at the spot where they were supposed to be (N18.86318 E99.70256) I only found a small stream with water falling some 30 centimeters over the rocks so not really what I had expected.
However, along the road to get there I could not fail to see the huge pillars used to construct houses, sheds and so on. The use of these seems to be a ploy to circumvent forestry laws which forbid the cutting of logs for sale (new wood) but not the sale of wood from demolished houses which is considered to be "used/old wood".
Some nice well sized house pillars
After the less than stellar waterfalls I was in need of some more waterfalls but it was not my day. The next one I visited - the Than Thong Waterfall at N19.06986 E99.72887- was OK but the one I really had come to see - the Champhatong waterfall (N19.21672 E99.73372) in the Doi Luang National Park west of Phayao was off-limit as visiting the falls was considered to be too dangerous in the rainy season.
Than Thong Waterfall along Rd 120
Champhatong Waterfall in Doi Luang National Park
Champhatong Waterfall - The waterfall is said to have five levels, though it may be difficult to get to the top if the water gets very high or the path too treacherous during rainy season. From the top level a trail leads up to the summit of the peak that the waterfall originates from.
Note to self - Next time try to visit the Pu Khaeng Waterfall (N19.46301 E99.65866) in the same Doi Luang National Park which seems to be also very nice with a series of seven big cascades about 1km long over limestone. A stepped trail climbs right by the steeply tumbling river, and there are numerous pools to swim in.
Along the way I had a quick look at the the Captain Jensen Memorial (N19.08510 E99.92048) on Highway 1 just south of Phayao
Born April 3 in Nasbyhoved, near Odense, in 1878, Jensen was seconded from the Danish army to the Siamese Provincial Gendarmerie in 1900 at the rank of Captain in order to maintain peace and control in Northern Siam's (now Thailand) rural and sparsely populated areas. It was there, only two years later, he became involved in the suppression of the infamous 'Shan Rebellion' of 1902.
The Shan dacoits were Burmese and, as such, were British citizens, many thousands of whom had been employed it the teak cutting and ruby mining industries of Northern Siam. After many years of corruption and harsh treatment by their Siamese overlords in Bangkok they were simmering with anger and ripe for rebellion. They were harassed and overly taxed on such items as tobacco, pack animals, boats and even their own pigs. The final straw had been when a four-rupee poll tax that was meant to replace a forced labour tax but didn't, was enforced.
Because of the obvious stirrings, a company of Gendarmerie was dispatched to the area but the dacoits were forewarned. On the night of July 23, 1902 they ambushed the party while sleeping, killing a number with the remainder fleeing for their lives. Realizing there was no turning back they finally rebelled fully and attacked the nearby township of Phrae, sacking the town and killing many locals, including the Governor, whom they beheaded. The rebellion had begun.
There is a serious school of thought that holds that the rebellion was inspired by the British in Burma in an effort to control this valuable area of Northern Thailand, although there is no documented evidence to support this theory. This, of course, does not mean it is untrue and many questions have been raised about the British involvement. For example, for such a comparatively small band of rebels (approximately 300) they obviously had to be well armed and provisioned to be able to cover the distances they did. Also, it is worth noting that this area of Northern Siam, including the capital of Chiang Mai, was held by the Burmese in the middle of the 19th Century and was still considered Burmese territory by them.
From Phrae, where the rebellion began, to Lampang is a distance of approximately 200 kilometres; so it is difficult to imagine a group of poverty-stricken peasants achieving this without assistance. Although there were no more than 300 rebels they were obviously a determined, fierce, and well organized force for they then marched south to attack the City of Lampang, 100 kilometres south from Chiang Mai.
Captain Jensen, who was placed in charge of the defence of Lampang, arrived from Chiang Mai on July 29 with a lieutenant and 54 soldiers and had the town barricaded to fend off the attackers. He was joined shortly after by his Second-in-Command, Louis T. Leonowens who was an officer in the Royal Siamese Cavalry and, jointly, they organized the defence of the city and arranged the evacuation of the women and children. Together, Captain Jensen and Leonowens successfully fought the rebels off and both men were reported to have acted with considerable bravery.
Leonowens himself was a colourful character and was the son of Anna Leonowens of 'The King and I' fame. He had business interests in the teak industry and was a founding member, in 1898, of the Gymkhana Club in Chiang Mai, the first of its kind in Siam and still in existence.
The British Consul in the northern capital, W. R. D. Beckett, was severely criticized by Leonowens for his role in the uprising, as he chose to remain in Chiang Mai and fortify that city. He thought the consul should have gone to meet and negotiate with the dacoits as they were British citizens. Instead, he sent his deputy.
Having defeated the rebels at Lampang, killing 52 of them, Captain Jensen decided to pursue the remainder and finally put an end to their murderous rebellion. He chased them all the way to the city of Phayao with a force of 270 men. Eventually, he caught up with a group of rebels and opened fire. The fire was returned and Markvard Jensen was struck in the chest three times and killed.
His body was recovered the following day by another Danish officer, Captain Halfdan Trolle, and taken back to Lampang where it was buried with full military honours. Shortly after the Second World War the cemetery in Lampang was closed and Jensen's body was removed to its present resting place in Chiang Mai.
For his actions in suppressing the uprising in Lampang King Chulalongkorn immediately promoted him to Major and awarded him 10,000 baht, a fortune in those far off days. Unfortunately, Jensen never lived to see either promotion or reward. In recognition of his gallantry the King then awarded his mother a monthly pension of 3,000 baht for the rest of her life; which she received until her death in 1936.
Source: Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide
The Shan dacoits were Burmese and, as such, were British citizens, many thousands of whom had been employed it the teak cutting and ruby mining industries of Northern Siam. After many years of corruption and harsh treatment by their Siamese overlords in Bangkok they were simmering with anger and ripe for rebellion. They were harassed and overly taxed on such items as tobacco, pack animals, boats and even their own pigs. The final straw had been when a four-rupee poll tax that was meant to replace a forced labour tax but didn't, was enforced.
Because of the obvious stirrings, a company of Gendarmerie was dispatched to the area but the dacoits were forewarned. On the night of July 23, 1902 they ambushed the party while sleeping, killing a number with the remainder fleeing for their lives. Realizing there was no turning back they finally rebelled fully and attacked the nearby township of Phrae, sacking the town and killing many locals, including the Governor, whom they beheaded. The rebellion had begun.
There is a serious school of thought that holds that the rebellion was inspired by the British in Burma in an effort to control this valuable area of Northern Thailand, although there is no documented evidence to support this theory. This, of course, does not mean it is untrue and many questions have been raised about the British involvement. For example, for such a comparatively small band of rebels (approximately 300) they obviously had to be well armed and provisioned to be able to cover the distances they did. Also, it is worth noting that this area of Northern Siam, including the capital of Chiang Mai, was held by the Burmese in the middle of the 19th Century and was still considered Burmese territory by them.
From Phrae, where the rebellion began, to Lampang is a distance of approximately 200 kilometres; so it is difficult to imagine a group of poverty-stricken peasants achieving this without assistance. Although there were no more than 300 rebels they were obviously a determined, fierce, and well organized force for they then marched south to attack the City of Lampang, 100 kilometres south from Chiang Mai.
Captain Jensen, who was placed in charge of the defence of Lampang, arrived from Chiang Mai on July 29 with a lieutenant and 54 soldiers and had the town barricaded to fend off the attackers. He was joined shortly after by his Second-in-Command, Louis T. Leonowens who was an officer in the Royal Siamese Cavalry and, jointly, they organized the defence of the city and arranged the evacuation of the women and children. Together, Captain Jensen and Leonowens successfully fought the rebels off and both men were reported to have acted with considerable bravery.
Leonowens himself was a colourful character and was the son of Anna Leonowens of 'The King and I' fame. He had business interests in the teak industry and was a founding member, in 1898, of the Gymkhana Club in Chiang Mai, the first of its kind in Siam and still in existence.
The British Consul in the northern capital, W. R. D. Beckett, was severely criticized by Leonowens for his role in the uprising, as he chose to remain in Chiang Mai and fortify that city. He thought the consul should have gone to meet and negotiate with the dacoits as they were British citizens. Instead, he sent his deputy.
Having defeated the rebels at Lampang, killing 52 of them, Captain Jensen decided to pursue the remainder and finally put an end to their murderous rebellion. He chased them all the way to the city of Phayao with a force of 270 men. Eventually, he caught up with a group of rebels and opened fire. The fire was returned and Markvard Jensen was struck in the chest three times and killed.
His body was recovered the following day by another Danish officer, Captain Halfdan Trolle, and taken back to Lampang where it was buried with full military honours. Shortly after the Second World War the cemetery in Lampang was closed and Jensen's body was removed to its present resting place in Chiang Mai.
For his actions in suppressing the uprising in Lampang King Chulalongkorn immediately promoted him to Major and awarded him 10,000 baht, a fortune in those far off days. Unfortunately, Jensen never lived to see either promotion or reward. In recognition of his gallantry the King then awarded his mother a monthly pension of 3,000 baht for the rest of her life; which she received until her death in 1936.
Source: Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide
For those of you who don't know about the Foreign Cemetary in Chiangmai have a look here for some pictures and background information: Chiang Mai Photos. The Foreigner's Cemetery - TeakDoor.com - The Thailand Forum Just as an aside, I just noticed that the grave of Leo, an old friend whom I met during the first time I lived in Chiangmai (1976-1978), is shown also. It was during his housewarming party in 1976 that I ate for the very first time raw laab (raw meat with spices) which I had vowed never to eat. Unfortunatey/Fortunately it was too dark to see what I was eating and to be honest I liked and still like it.
Captain Jensen Memorial along Rd 1 south of Phayao and his burial place at the Chiangmai Foreign Cemetary (N18.77450 E99.00812)
Wat Li (N19.16622 E99.91589) was next on my list of things I wanted to see. This is an ancient temple constructed in 1495 to be presented to Phrachao Yot Chiang Rai, the king of Chiang Mai Town. Li is its original name. It is an ancient northern Thai dialect, meaning Kat or Talat or market. Therefore, it means a temple in the area of the market community. Within the compound of the temple, there are important ancient remains like Phrathat Wat Li, and many artefacts of the Phayao Kingdom, especially the sandstone Buddha images.
Phratat Li and some nice flowers growing nearby
One of the temple buildings is being renovated and the doors and window blinds whic have been removed are being restored as well
Along the way to my final stop I had a quick look at the Pha Kong Cave (N19.51918 E99.65543) but I found that the place was a gathering spot for all the teenagers living in the neighbourhood with loud motorbikes and music and I decided to give it a miss.
While on my way to my final stop for the day I made a quick visit to the Huai Sai Khao Hot Spring (N19.63618 E99.74362) near Muang Phan along Rd 1 . In the front a tub with HOT water, on the right the WARM water and in the background LUKE-WARM water. Unfortunately, the whole hot spring area is run-down and it looks like that very few people visit the place
Something I had been looking forward to all day
- Blueberry Cheese Cake with Hot Coffee at Charin (N19.69608 E99.58124)
