A trip to remote Hua Mae Kham

Lone Rider

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A trip to remote Hua Mae Kham north-west of Doi Mae Salong and Thoed Thai

After having slaved behind the computer for many days and nights updating the GPS maps, I was in need of some fresh air and decided to head to the mountains in the north with no fixed plan other than to see a few new things as well as re-visit others. I was not really in the mood to take a lot of pictures so I will use also some pictures I took this trip as well as others taken on previous trips to the same area.

First stop was Tha Ton where I went to have another look at Wat Tha Thon (TEMPLES) also known as Wat Luang. I was not really there to see the temple but rather the big pagoda also known as CHEDI KAEW PAGODA up the mountain from the temple (see here for pictures taken during the construction of this pagoda: Chedi Kaew Pagoda 1 and Chedi Kaew Pagoda 2.

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On one of the levels of the pagoda, plaques had been inserted which showed each of the years of the 12 year cycle of the Chinese zodiac each with a different temple and appropriate prayers for that year.

The Shēngxiào (Chinese: 生肖), also known in English as the Chinese zodiac, is a scheme, and a systematic plan of future action, that relates each year to an animal and its reputed attributes, according to a 12-year mathematical cycle. It remains popular in several East Asian countries, such as China, Vietnam, Korea, Taiwan and Japan. In Chinese astrology the animal signs assigned by year represent what others perceive you as being or how you present yourself. It is a common misconception that the animals assigned by year are the only signs and many western descriptions of Chinese astrology draw solely on this system. In fact, there are also animal signs assigned by month (called inner animals), by day (called true animals) and hours (called secret animals). While a person might appear to be a Dragon because they were born in the year of the Dragon, they might also be a Snake internally, an Ox truly, and a Goat secretively.(Chinese zodiac - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

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As it was getting late I decided to stay the night in Tha Ton - this time at the Apple House Resort (N20.06104 E99.36348) and had dinner at the Marble Restaurant (opposite the 7-11 at N20.05952 E99.36124). I had a look at the new Jack's Coffee at N20.05837 E99.36059 but the noisy Muay Tai boxing match shown on the telly in the restaurant did not appeal to me. Must admit though that the food and the pies and cakes looked good.

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Bungalows at the Apple House Resort

The next day I decided to go to Hua Mae Kham to visit Wat Hua Mae Kham (Border Temple) while along the way taking in some temples and stupas I had spotted before but never had taken the time to have a closer look.

First of these was a new stupa in Ban Mai Nok on the Mae Kok River
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The road to Mae Suai (Rd 3037/3044) as seen from the new stupa.

Wat Mueang Ngam Tai with a big new stupa (N20.06893 E99.50330) just off Rd 3010
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Views along the way to Doi Mae Salong with the hill rice starting to ripen in some of the fields
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Phra Borommathat Chedi Srinagarindra Sathit Maha Santi Khiri
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The new chedi east of Doi Mae Salong as seen from as seen from Phra Borommathat Chedi Srinagarindra Sathit Maha Santi Khiri
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The roads out of Doi Mae Salong are steep and this truck went a bit to fast and landed in the bushes

Views along the roads to Hua Mae Kham
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The roads near Hua Mae Kham were badly potholed and in some places showed deep ruts in the pavement while the backroads in the village were decidedly narrow
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The sunflowers are expected to be in full bloom in November and will then form the background of the "Bua Thong and Tribal Culture Festival" which normally is held during the 3rd weekend of November.

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Picture copied from: 2 3 Perspective Company

Wat Hua Mae Kham (Border Temple - N20.36148 E99.48266) is located on a hilltop a bit south-east of Ban Hua Mae Kham. The main reason for me to go here was that I had seen this temple in a movie called "Buddha's lost Children" which is basically a movie about Khru Bah Neua Chai Kositto, a former boxer (then known as Samerchai) and now Abbot of Wat Tham Pa Acha Thong (N20.22630 E99.80710) or the "Golden Horse Temple". Wat Hua Mae Kham is/was basically one of the outposts of the Golden Horse Temple during the time Khun Sa was reigning supreme in this area.

Buddha's Lost Children - Buddha's Lost Children is a 2006 documentary film by Dutch director Mark Verkerk. The feature film tells the story of Khru Bah Neua Chai Kositto, a Buddhist monk who has dedicated his life to orphaned children in the Golden Triangle area of Thailand.

The whole movie can be found here: Buddhas Lost Children - YouTube while the trailer for the movie is here: Trailer - Buddha's Lost Children - YouTube

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The Buddha has weathered quite bit as it is at the moment standing in the open air - the 4 monks in attendance at the wat told me that they were going to construct a new shelter for the Buddha as the old shelter apparently had burnt down. In the movie trailer at 1.30 you can see the same Buddha during better days.

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Did you meet Khru Bah Neua Chai Kositto Auke? I believe he is quite a character.
When the movie came out in 2006 a short clip was shown on Dutch TV, so I bought the DVD, via Mark's website Buddha's Lost Children: - Buddha's Lost Children Trailer
Sad to see the Buddha image so rusted up, always it is difficult for such projects to get sustaining support instead of a hype for 1 or 2 years......
 
Auke, did you know that Mark Verkerk did Buddhas lost Children Revistited, an additional 83 minute movie in 2009? I will order a DVD from EMS Films.
 
Marcel, no I did not know that but just found the movie trailer for it at:


I did buy the original from 2006 but can't find it at the moment and might buy the "revisited" version as well
 
Just got information from the TAT in Chiangrai that the annual Hua Mae Kham Sunflower and Hill Tribe Festival will be held from 16-17 November 2013 in Hua Mae Kham.

Here are some youtube movies from an earlier festival (copyright of both movies: Fabian Frederick Blandford)



and a map of the location:

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Thanks for that Auke.
Clashes with Loy Khratong.

However, I have just heard (unofficially) that Loy Krathong celebrations will be cancelled because of the mourning of the death of the Patriarch.
Certainly need to check this rumour.
Will try to do so now.
 
Thanks for the info Auke and reminding me about the movie, good to watch again, well worth a trip to that area in November.
 
Nice pix there..... I went to the festival last year and put my vids on Youtube...some of them have been posted in this thread.
I certainly intend to go this year even if it means missing Loy Kratong.
It is best to take a tent and camp out but it will mbe cold by then so have a warm sleeping bag. Last year I thought there might be accomodation but I ended up buying a tent and bag from a shop in the Lisu village...cheap stuff from Tesco/Lotus but OK.
The movie has been a favourite of mine for years and I have visited Khru bah several times at his temple. He doesn't get many monks and novices ordaining now and is getting less active so only has one or two satellite temples now. I have all the outake videos from the first movie on my FaceBook videos. I got the two DVD set which has the first movie, the return and 30+ outakes. Fabian Frederick Blandford is my FB .
 
Thanks for the input Fred and welcome aboard, maybe catch you up there this year, i'll take my hammock :DD
 
At a recent temple festival i was lucky to bump into a group of 14 Akha girls who did several dances for the show. Although Akha are often Christian and therefore do not attend the Buddhist temple festivals the leader had connections with someone from there.
I spoke with him, since the girls were all from the Mae Fah Luang area, and asked if they would be going to the Sunflower and Hilltribe festival. He said last year they just went to look but intend to go and dance this year. Last year only adult Akha were dancing.
video i made here...

Akha girls dance at festival ????????? - YouTube
 
Nice Fabian, is Mae Ead, the nun in the first video still with Khru Bah?
I am waiting for a reply from EMS films on the Revisited DVD, so I have not seen that one yet.
 
Great video's Fabian, I will try and go see Phra Khru Bah myself next year.
 
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